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Old 09-27-2016, 08:04 PM   #379
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Originally Posted by bono View Post
This is the thing. I have another setup, i.e. the plates are down, etc. This is the photo with no washers. I was able to add only two, no way I could squeeze more.




Bono - I'm not sure what the difference is with your setup (other than the obvious- it's the other way up!). Your pin and washers are at the top right?

I'm pretty sure that the slots in the side plates (that allow the angle/tilt for the top and bottom bolts) are the same length at the top and bottom and the pivot bolt hole location is the same relative to these slotted holes so it should not matter which way up the plates are. At least that's what I think.

Try loosening off all bolts and see if you can get anymore tilt. The top bolt should be hard up against the front of the top slot and the bottom bolt hard up against the rear of the bottom slot. The washers on these bolts could be covering some slot so it looks like they are hard over but maybe they are not.

If you have checked all this then I don't know what the difference is.

Can-Am sometimes puts a bend in the shank when fitting PP's and will re drill for the pin to get the hitch closer to the receiver. This may be an option either via a visit or shipping parts. Check with Andy if you want to go this route.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:39 PM   #380
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I am 100% sure that I can’t add any more washers… You are correct, the pin and washers are at the top. I was thinking that since you may have different distance between the tilt bolt and the pin, you are getting different angle for the stinger vs. this second metal part that goes to the receiver (hitch bar?). If the angle is higher, you may be able to add more washers. Just my speculations without looking the hitch. I am not sure if I need more tilt. I need to visit CAT scales. I am cranking my bars approx. 4 inches and have an impression that I am transferring too much to the front. Again, need to visit CAT scales… maybe this weekend after weekend camping trip.
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Old 09-29-2016, 04:00 PM   #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bono View Post
I am 100% sure that I can’t add any more washers… You are correct, the pin and washers are at the top. I was thinking that since you may have different distance between the tilt bolt and the pin, you are getting different angle for the stinger vs. this second metal part that goes to the receiver (hitch bar?). If the angle is higher, you may be able to add more washers. Just my speculations without looking the hitch. I am not sure if I need more tilt. I need to visit CAT scales. I am cranking my bars approx. 4 inches and have an impression that I am transferring too much to the front. Again, need to visit CAT scales… maybe this weekend after weekend camping trip.

Yes - a trip to the CAT scale is a good idea. Are you familiar with the 3 weight method? TV and trailer hitched w WD, TV and trailer w/o WD and finally TV on its own (leave stinger in the receiver). You need 3 weighs to get the tongue weight and true trailer weight.
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:10 PM   #382
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2011 Cayenne S + International 27FB

What is the recommended setup for a 2011 Cayenne S with steel spring suspension pulling a 2015 International Signature 27FB? (WD / LB hitch, other items)

Any experiences with a steel sprung 2011+ Cayenne S and the 27FB would be very welcome also!

Can this be done well without any mods to the TV or trailer? Seemed to be much talk of this and not sure if that was out of tinkering fun or necessity.

This is a great forum! I made it through 13 pages of posts dating back to 2015 and couldn't find a consensus recommendation on these items. Help appreciated!
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:16 PM   #383
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Originally Posted by AirDFW View Post
What is the recommended setup for a 2011 Cayenne S with steel spring suspension pulling a 2015 International Signature 27FB? (WD / LB hitch, other items)

Any experiences with a steel sprung 2011+ Cayenne S and the 27FB would be very welcome also!

Can this be done well without any mods to the TV or trailer? Seemed to be much talk of this and not sure if that was out of tinkering fun or necessity.

This is a great forum! I made it through 13 pages of posts dating back to 2015 and couldn't find a consensus recommendation on these items. Help appreciated!
AirDFW, I believe my MY (2014) is the same as the 2011 so you and I have the same steel springs. My Cayenne is an absolute pleasure as a TV and downright "sporty" hitched up on twisty back roads. Completely secure handling.

Can-Am (the recognized experts in TV setup) will set up their TV's with an Eaz-Lift hitch and (for a 27) 2 x Husky friction sway control units. Set the ball on the Eaz-Lift with the max rearward rake to enable good WD. If possible have the shank re-drilled to get it as close to the receiver as possible. Knuff has this setup - some pics above. He had Can-Am send a custom welded Eaz-Lift with redrilled shank. I towed with an Eaz-Lift and 2 x Husky anti-away units for a while and it worked well. I upgraded to a ProPride after a few weeks - I had had my heart set on one from the outset. Picture below of a Can-Am Eaz-Lift setup (custom welded hitch) - see how close it is to the receiver? Perfect set-up.

The ProPride will give you some extra safety albeit with more weight (and cost!) I would highly recommend a ProPride. I have zero regrets about the near $3k price. The difference between an expertly setup Eaz-Lift and a ProPride is probably only 5%. For me the security of the hitch and complete elimination of sway is worth it, particularly if you tow a little faster than the average Airstreamer. Since your ride is a Porsche thats a given right? Obviously always tow at a speed suitable for the conditions, traffic, grade etc, etc....be safe!

Your payload will be limited. Should be just fine if you are traveling with you and one other person in the TV. in this case no mods to the trailer should be required. If you will have another person in the TV some AS tongue weight reduction may be a good idea. Moving the battery rearward (under the bed or to the rear), replacing with Lithiums (much lighter) and/or deletion of the AS spare tire are good strategies to reduce tongue weight. I would, however, set things up and try as-is first. Take a trip to a CAT scale and play around with setup until you get equal squat front and rear on your TV and some good transfer of weight back to the trailer. Check axle loads and vehicle weight and see where your are at. The key will be to get lots of WD applied.

Having the receiver reinforced (many details above) for a 27 is recommended. If you have time and are close enough, a trip to Can-Am will get all this taken care of and the set up dialed in by the experts.
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:17 AM   #384
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Originally Posted by Ohiobrits View Post
If possible have the shank re-drilled to get it as close to the receiver as possible.
I agree that moving the ball closer to the receiver is good but can it be too close? If you crank your steering full lock, does your bumper hit the A frame or LP storage walls?
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:57 AM   #385
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It's much more desirable to put the ball close to the bumper as possible to reduce sway leverage to the steering axle, than worry about backing angle. At that point you're rotating the railer more than backing it anyway, a poor backing maneuver that can result in bent hitch parts and twisted trailer tires (tandem axle trailers) even before contacting the trailer shell.
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Old 10-05-2016, 06:18 PM   #386
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It's much more desirable to put the ball close to the bumper as possible to reduce sway leverage to the steering axle, than worry about backing angle.
Agreed and I've shortened my shank such that the center of the ball is 8-1/8" from the bumper.

One thing I like about my Cayenne is the small 19' turning radius. However, I'm now in a position that if I lock the steering wheel to make a U-turn, the bumper touches the wall of the propane storage. Not a big deal but if the ball was any closer to the bumper, the turning radius would be compromised.
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Old 10-09-2016, 03:42 PM   #387
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:47 PM   #388
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I read this entire thread with great interest the day after I purchased a Touareg to pull my Airstream trailer. I thought I was being at least a little bit original but I was happy to see a large knowledge base out there to help me. My original intention was to pull the Airstream with an Audi A8 but my wife was not comfortable with the size difference between the trailer and the car. The trailer is a 1975 31ft. I look forward to the opinions of anybody willing to give one. That is the time i have tonight but i will soon ask for help with some details i have yet to pin down.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:32 PM   #389
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Been there done that. 1975 31' is way too much trailer for a Touareg even with the hitch reinforced (which is mandatory but expressly prohibited by VW). I took a big hit going from our 2014 ML350 to a 2015 Silverado HD when we upgraded from our 2012 25' FB to the 30' Bunk. Sorry just my personal experience.


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Old 10-11-2016, 09:19 AM   #390
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I read this entire thread with great interest the day after I purchased a Touareg to pull my Airstream trailer... a 1975 31ft.
It's not just the hitch weight but the payload and axel ratings that may be exceeded. But I'm not familiar with the older AS and maybe they are lighter.
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:54 AM   #391
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The trailer weighs less than 7000 pounds and the Tongue weight is less than 600 pounds.I got that from a worksheet that the former owner had filled out but I did not see the weight scale ticket.I was under the impression that the older airstreams weigh less than the newer airstreams.My employer from when I was driving truck has scales so I was going to go there and check it out soon.He will not charge me a penny and I can take my time and get all the measurements I want.I am a little concerned about the short wheelbase of the TV and the long 31 foot trailer giving me problems with sway.Is it just the Porsche or does the tourag have an anti-lock brake/ stability system that senses Sway and applies the brakes on the outside wheel of the TV to counteract it? Either way I was thinking about using two friction sway control units.On an unrelated issue I have a trailer interface module but I cannot seem to find the harness that goes from the trailer interface module back to the towbar for a reasonable price, VW wants $450. Thank you to both of the posters that replied I appreciate your input.

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Old 10-11-2016, 11:51 AM   #392
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Cbfreq,

Take a look at the thread "Weight Dustribution Hitch Setting" post 34 for a thorough description of how to set up a WD hitch by Andy at Can-Am. It's in the "Hitches, Couplers and ball" sub forum of the Towing forum

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1862057 .

This provides all you need to know to set your rig up. I personally like to weigh the combination to verify axle loading etc once setup to see where a good feeling setup is relative to actuals for future ref but the procedure gives you all you need to know.

Relative to the AS you are looking at you should have no problems relative to weight or length provided you get your hitch set up correctly (see above). I tow a 7400 lb (fully loaded) 27FB (28ft) International with tongue weight in the 800 lb range and am very pleased with the setup. The extra length of your combination should not be an issue provided you get the hitch setup right and use some friction anti sway units (2 for this length) or a PPP hitch.

If you need some specific advice Andy at Can-Am will provide input.

There are some photos of Andy's setup of a 30ft AS above (I think it was a 30 from memory) hitched to a Cayenne that was done for Porsche.

Enjoy.
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