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Old 11-19-2007, 09:36 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by SRW
This post is off point considering the thread, but why not just leave off the decorative skid plate? If decorative is the operative word, what good is it anyway?

My 5.7 is a 4x2, and has that great "Off Road" decal, and even a skid plate, but if this thing ever gets off road it will be 100% unintentional.
Answer: it looks cool and it cost a bunch of money. I thought it would better protect the radiator, but I'm not sure it does. Even more disconcerting, nothing protects the oil pan. I doubt this truck will go 4wheeling, it's too big (and I'm getting too soft and old), but I figure maximum underbelly protection is good on lengthy trips on graveled roads.

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Old 11-19-2007, 10:28 AM   #44
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I do all my own oil changes at home. I drain it into a 16 qt roll-around pan so it will accommodate all 3 of my vehicles if I am doing the whole lot at once. Which is what I usually do - when the first of the 3 needs a change I just get a couple cases of oil (Mobil 1) and spend a Saturday morning and done with it. Twelve qts will do them all - '01 Ranger, '04 Toyota, '72 VW Bug project car... Each one is 30 mins or less as they are all easy.

Anyway, for oil disposal our County has a nice recycling center open 24/7 with big tanks (all separate) for disposal of oil, anti-freeze, oil filters, car batteries, etc etc. Nice to see tax dollars put to a good use for once. I was impressed that they even want the old oil filter itself so that does not go into a landfill. I think it all started as part of the "Save the Bay" campaign for the Chesapeake Bay.

At any rate, I have never done an oil change on the road. I use a 10,000 mile interval with the Mobil 1 and have never yet exceeded that in a single road trip, and I always change before starting out if I would end up hitting the interval while gone.

regards, Dave
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Old 11-19-2007, 10:11 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by RIstream'n
And it's done by a tecnician that has taken 3 years of Subaru training to become certified. It's not done by a kid just hired last week. Hey I hear there's a new place to go to for your annual physical, it's called Jiffy Doc's, HaHaHa....
Are all the people working in that dealer shop certified? If so I can tell you that is unusual, most dealerships have people who are not the certified mechanics doing the things like oil, lube, filter jobs, tire changes, tire rotation/balance, new wipers and other stuff like that. At least that's the way it used to be, I haven't been to one in a very long time.

I recomend doing it yourself or finding a good locally owned repair shop(might take some looking and reference checks, bbb and what not).

That being said I change the fluids and do the other regular maintenance in all our vehicles and motorcycles. I use Penzoil non-synthetic every 3,000 miles in the truck and same oil different viscosity every 8,000-10,000 on the accord(yes Honda officially says every 10,000 on our accord).
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Old 11-19-2007, 10:36 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by bobfowler
For those folks in northeastern Massachusetts, I can recommend VIP auto service in North Billerica Mass. Last November I towed the Basecamp up ther for Thanksgiving and had a shock absorber failure on I-495. I drove the last few miles to Mom's house doing the 3 shock tango and took the van to them the next morning. While they were doing the shocks, I had them do the transmission fluid at the same time. They have a machine that completely flushes out the old fluid from the transmission and torque converter, not just a drop the pan oil change. The service was quick and priced very reasonably.
Most shops have that machine now, they don't have to take the pan off anymore. I remember my Dad took their 95 Grand Prix up to a very reliable local garage for a repair and tran. service. When he got it home he noticed none of the bolts had been touched on the tranny pan and took it back, I met him up there to handle bidness and they proceeded to show us the new machine and how it operates. They were very nice about it and understood how someone might think the service had been skipped. If anyone lives in Collierville, TN. or N. Miss. area I highly recomend Caz's Main Street Garage right off Cville town square. Good people.
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Old 11-19-2007, 10:38 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by jcanavera
I've always taken my Honda's to the local dealership for oil change. They are competitive with the local quick change oil market and I know it's done right. Honda's use a washer with their filters and very few if any quick change places replace the washer with a new one, or even use the old washer.

Now the GMC van get's my treatment. It's big and tall and easy to get under. It's diet is Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. I dump the oil at the local Autozone where I purchase the filter. The oil comes from Costco.

Jack
I think you mean they use a washer with their drain plug, it's a sealer washer and should be changed everytime or at least every other time. You can buy them at the auto parts store as well.
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Old 11-19-2007, 10:52 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by 2airishuman
changing oil at 3k is soooo 80s....

but many still follow that plan.

the new dodge hemi truck is now at 15,000 mile intervals...

even severe duty is 7-8k...

the spec'd oil is 5-20 and is full syn i think...

so 3k changes IF driving much is really wasting the oil which can safely go 5k or more

of course not driving much could result in 3k changes, as in once yearly.

i'v had 10 oil exchanges on the powerstroke diesel at 53k miles, mostly towing and in just 2 years.

all done at the same dealer and lately with me supplying the oil, rotella 5-40 full syn.

the first 7 were motocraft 15-40 dino.

i'll extend these changes from 7-10 k based on an oil analysis at 5k.

one change was done while traveling last year to beverly beach at a 'quickielube'...

i was nervous as a cat, but they keep you IN the truck and provide a usa today for reading.

also they position a 'castrol camera/screen at the rear view mirror.

this lets one see the guy under the hood, and under the engine and under the transaxle/rear end ALL at the same time.

it was fun watching EACH guy work and they brought everything to be inspected...

dip stick, pan nut/washer, oil filter/cartridge and even the new stuff.

it went very well. so i can recommend the guys at newport bay oilcan henry's!

Oil Can Henry's - Oil Can Henry's. The One You Can Trust.


cheers
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I'm not sure what Dodge Hemi's your talking about as I am looking at my manual and it has very different information that n you gave. The interval is evry 6,000 if you don't do any of the following: Day or night driving below 32* F, stop and go driving, extensive engine idling, dusty cond's, short trips less than 10 miles, more than 50% of driving at sustained high speeds in hot weather above 90*F, trailor towing, snow plowing, heavy loading, delivery serv., off-road desert operation, or if equipped for and operating w/E-85 fuel. If you do any of those then the interval is every 3,000 miles. I do some of those so I change mine evry three thousand miles. I have a 2004 Dodge 2500 Hemi HD.
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:00 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by CrawfordGene
Richard:

I changed oil and filter on my Tundra with 5.7 L engine yesterday, same as yours. If you have never changed oil before, this is not the truck to start on. It took me about 3 hours—I'm sure I can get it down to 2 with experience with this truck, but it was an awful experience. I have the decorative skid plate under the utility one and that made it much harder. I raised it a bit on ramps, but I think they were slightly overloaded and it's better to use jack stands. Fourteen bolts to remove. The decorative one came off after 11 bolts, but the utility one had three more. Then several hooks that supported it from a bar below the radiator. I couldn't get the hooks to release, but could get to the filter. Unscrewed the drain screw and used a plastic drain tool (came with filter). It didn't drain it. Unscrewed the case next with a nylon filter remover (you can buy a special tool from Toyota which would probably have made it easier), and once I got it off, a cascade of oil. Changed filter after cleaning up lots of oil, replaced all the parts, had already drained oil from the pan, filled it up and no leaks. Replaced skid plates, a miserable job, but I did remember where all the bolts went. Job done.

0W-20 oil, Mobil 1: 7.5 qts at $5 to 6.40 a quart, depending where you get it (Walmart just started carrying it), one filter at $6.40 from Toyota = more than $40 at minimum. I know more about my truck, not happy, even angry at lousy design. They don't want you to change your own oil. Years ago when American manufacturers started designing cars so you couldn't fix them, a lot of us starting buying foreign cars. They also abandoned quality and cranked out millions of inferior vehicles in their arrogance. Is Toyota starting to go down that same road? My Tundra performs very well, but right now I am mad at it. Grrrrrrr.

There are some similar horror stories on Tundra Solutions Forum, though some seemed to think it easy. Maybe they have their own lift. Without the extra skid plate, it wouldn't be as difficult, and if the utility plate was easy to unhook, it would have been easier to get to the filter (all Toyotas I've had have hooks, but they actually unhook; not this one, different hook design). I have changed oil for more than 40 years on many vehicles, but this was by far the hardest one I've done. I wonder what the Toyota dealer charges here? Costs cited on that Forum were all over the place, some in the $70+ range, others much lower.

Gene
Wow, my Dodge (which I've owned a few Chrysler products that all gave me many years of reliable care free service, because they were well maintained I'm sure) takes me all of about 15-20 minutes and that includes getting my stuff out. It's the easiest vehicle I've ever owned to change the oil in. It costs me about 17 bucks to do and I use quality oil and a heavy duty filter.
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:23 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by mrmossyone
I'm not sure what Dodge Hemi's your talking about...
perhaps u missed post 37? which covered the issue.

the interval i was (mistakeningly) referring to is for the diesel, diesel, diesel, diesel.

it's not a hemi dude.

2air'
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:31 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
perhaps u missed post 34? which covered the issue.

the interval i was (mistakeningly) referring to is for the diesel, diesel, diesel, diesel.

it's not a hemi dude.

2air'
No, I didn't miss post # 34, which has nothing to do with a Dodge hemi or diesel. Your post #35 does say Dodge Hemi not diesel. I just didn't want people to have the wrong information, dude. Now I did read post 37 which corrects your information but I had already posted my correction, forgive me. Live long and prosper.
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:33 PM   #52
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Quote:
they don't have to take the pan off anymore.
has anyone here seen how clean the pan and filter get after this procedure?
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:55 PM   #53
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has anyone here seen how clean the pan and filter get after this procedure?
sure, the pan doesn't get cleaned and the internal filter doesn't get cleaned.

my understanding is, there are at least 2 types of flushing machines, and

really it depends on which vehicle/tranny.

since some now have 2 filters, one external one internal.

most shops using the 'transfusion flush' machine only change 1/2 of the fluid.

and even that is iffy if they don't flush the flush machine between customers...

since different tranny models (even within ONE brand) use different lubricants, cross contamination IS an issue.

even with pan off service all the fluid isn't changed without extra efforts.

my ford diesel mechanic hates the flush machine...

his service writers like it...

i've opted to alternate tranny services (on the 250) using the flush every other time.

the internal filter which is magnetic on my daily driver can only be serviced correctly with a pan off approach.

and servicing the trans actually voids the audi warranty. the manufacturer claims it is a 'lifetime' fluid and sealed up....yea sure.

cheers
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Old 11-20-2007, 12:04 AM   #54
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That's good to know. I thought about having it done by the shop since it's pretty reasonable but now my Dad and I may just do it ourselves. THanks for the info.
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Old 11-20-2007, 06:48 AM   #55
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Flushing the transmission is the only way to exchange all (let's say 90%) of the fluid. Removing the pan is the only way to service the filters. However, if you change the fluid by just removing the pan you are lucky to exchange half of it.

The manufacturers trainer on the machine I have in my shop stated that the pan should be removed and filters changed on every other flush if you are on about a 45000 mile service interval and the transmission has not had any "issues" or seen severe use.

We still use the fluid exchanger on the vehicles that we sevice the pan and filters on. On my own vehicles the pan comes off every time. We give our service customers the option.

Roger
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Old 11-20-2007, 07:51 AM   #56
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I understand some people change the washer on the engine oil drain bolt, but I never have and it has never leaked. Newer Toyotas don't have an auto transmission dip stick and the service guys say to rely on a warning light (as if I had a choice). I'm not about to crawl underneath periodically and take the bolt off the side of the transmission and stick my finger in there if I knew where the bolt is. Doesn't seem like an improvement to me, but people likes the lights and probably have ignored the dipstick for years, or poured engine oil in there.
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