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Old 10-30-2007, 08:30 AM   #29
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2004 30' Classic Slideout
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I've always taken my Honda's to the local dealership for oil change. They are competitive with the local quick change oil market and I know it's done right. Honda's use a washer with their filters and very few if any quick change places replace the washer with a new one, or even use the old washer.

Now the GMC van get's my treatment. It's big and tall and easy to get under. It's diet is Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. I dump the oil at the local Autozone where I purchase the filter. The oil comes from Costco.


Jack Canavera
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'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
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Old 11-07-2007, 02:00 PM   #30
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Gretna , Nebraska
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After a few free initial oil changes by the dealer, I have put my '06 GMC on Mobil 1. Have used it in all our vehicles for several years. My S-10 (4 cyl) has 140,000 miles and runs like a top. I go to a commercial place on occasion to get their "once-over" but enjoy doing it myself.

I quit the JL place when they failed to replace the dipstick firmly in my '91 Honda. Too much Jiffy, and not enough lube!

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Old 11-07-2007, 03:01 PM   #31
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Tempe , Arizona
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being an old curmudgeon

i do my own oil and all other PM on my TV. i don't have an automatic transmission so, the one thing i won't touch is not on my TV. everything else is part of the weekly inspection. Oil and Filter every 3k and a general "once over" every 10k. i hope i never have to go to the dealer for warranty or paid service.... now there is an organization i don't trust. i've had friends that mechaniced at dealers and they can tell some really interesting stories.
Donna & Mike
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Old 11-07-2007, 05:48 PM   #32
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1992 30' Airstream 30
Santa Rosa , Northern California wine country
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I use Chevron's One Stop lube place. They computerize all the info and can check what I've had done and what needs to be done. I take my AS moho there too and they have a blast servicing it. Dealers don't even want to mess with the RV so I appreciate the One Stop dudes.
1992 Airstream 300LE, rear queen, Banks Power!
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:20 PM   #33
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Ft. Myers , Florida
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I do all of my oils in all of our vehicles and machinery. Synthetic in the vehicles along with synthetic filters, I can afford it and it works. The modern oils are very very good I just like synthetics. I also use a fumoto valve instead of the drain plug because it's so much easier. For those of you that are new to changing your oil, it's very easy once you get set up (tools container etc.). The benefit of knowing it's done right, plus the visual inspection under your TV is worth it's weight in gold, and piece of mind. --Mark--
--Mark and June-- "Every time I feel the urge to exercise, I go lay down until it passes." Mark Twain
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Old 11-07-2007, 09:46 PM   #34
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I recently retired from an insurance company. We stopped insuring any of the quick lub places -- had to pay for too many blown engines.
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Old 11-07-2007, 10:20 PM   #35
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changing oil at 3k is soooo 80s....

but many still follow that plan.

the new dodge hemi truck is now at 15,000 mile intervals...

even severe duty is 7-8k...

the spec'd oil is 5-20 and is full syn i think...

so 3k changes IF driving much is really wasting the oil which can safely go 5k or more

of course not driving much could result in 3k changes, as in once yearly.

i'v had 10 oil exchanges on the powerstroke diesel at 53k miles, mostly towing and in just 2 years.

all done at the same dealer and lately with me supplying the oil, rotella 5-40 full syn.

the first 7 were motocraft 15-40 dino.

i'll extend these changes from 7-10 k based on an oil analysis at 5k.

one change was done while traveling last year to beverly beach at a 'quickielube'...

i was nervous as a cat, but they keep you IN the truck and provide a usa today for reading.

also they position a 'castrol camera/screen at the rear view mirror.

this lets one see the guy under the hood, and under the engine and under the transaxle/rear end ALL at the same time.

it was fun watching EACH guy work and they brought everything to be inspected...

dip stick, pan nut/washer, oil filter/cartridge and even the new stuff.

it went very well. so i can recommend the guys at newport bay oilcan henry's!

Oil Can Henry's - Oil Can Henry's. The One You Can Trust.

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 11-07-2007, 10:33 PM   #36
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Somewhere in Western , North Carolina
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2008 F250

I've now put 15k on my 08 F250, done 3 oil changes/tire changes, and at 10k had the fuel filters changed.

I have made the decision to have all service done at my local dealer where I've bought the truck since the 2008 is a major design change. I want Ford to see I've followed THEIR recommended service schedule to a T. When I bought the truck I also purchased Ford's extended warranty plan and want to ensure if I do have a problem there will be no question that I've done my part.

I live in a very small town and when I come in to the shop I make a point to talk to the owner. He and his people are also very interested in how their new trucks are performing.

BTW, the new 2008 F250's normal service is 10k for oil changes and 20k for fuel filter change. Under heavy duty work those normal service routines are halved.

My wife's foreign mini-van has always been services by that brands dealership too.
Duane Pandorf
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Old 11-08-2007, 01:59 PM   #37
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dpandorf, I salute you!

2air, Reading from 2008 Dodge Ram (gas) owners manual. "Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exeed 6,000 miles (10,000 km) or 6 months, whichever comes first."

Also there is no requirement or recommendation regarding synthetic oil.

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Old 11-09-2007, 06:51 PM   #38
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Alton , Illinois
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I do the oil change myself. Every 3000 miles, Rotella. Every 6000 new fuel filter and every 9000 new air filter. This new oil is so good every 3000 is overkill. I know that and its OK. I can't remember the last engine repair.
The "Ann Rutledge"
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Old 11-16-2007, 09:01 AM   #39
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Grand Junction , Colorado
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Tundra oil change


I changed oil and filter on my Tundra with 5.7 L engine yesterday, same as yours. If you have never changed oil before, this is not the truck to start on. It took me about 3 hours—I'm sure I can get it down to 2 with experience with this truck, but it was an awful experience. I have the decorative skid plate under the utility one and that made it much harder. I raised it a bit on ramps, but I think they were slightly overloaded and it's better to use jack stands. Fourteen bolts to remove. The decorative one came off after 11 bolts, but the utility one had three more. Then several hooks that supported it from a bar below the radiator. I couldn't get the hooks to release, but could get to the filter. Unscrewed the drain screw and used a plastic drain tool (came with filter). It didn't drain it. Unscrewed the case next with a nylon filter remover (you can buy a special tool from Toyota which would probably have made it easier), and once I got it off, a cascade of oil. Changed filter after cleaning up lots of oil, replaced all the parts, had already drained oil from the pan, filled it up and no leaks. Replaced skid plates, a miserable job, but I did remember where all the bolts went. Job done.

0W-20 oil, Mobil 1: 7.5 qts at $5 to 6.40 a quart, depending where you get it (Walmart just started carrying it), one filter at $6.40 from Toyota = more than $40 at minimum. I know more about my truck, not happy, even angry at lousy design. They don't want you to change your own oil. Years ago when American manufacturers started designing cars so you couldn't fix them, a lot of us starting buying foreign cars. They also abandoned quality and cranked out millions of inferior vehicles in their arrogance. Is Toyota starting to go down that same road? My Tundra performs very well, but right now I am mad at it. Grrrrrrr.

There are some similar horror stories on Tundra Solutions Forum, though some seemed to think it easy. Maybe they have their own lift. Without the extra skid plate, it wouldn't be as difficult, and if the utility plate was easy to unhook, it would have been easier to get to the filter (all Toyotas I've had have hooks, but they actually unhook; not this one, different hook design). I have changed oil for more than 40 years on many vehicles, but this was by far the hardest one I've done. I wonder what the Toyota dealer charges here? Costs cited on that Forum were all over the place, some in the $70+ range, others much lower.

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Old 11-16-2007, 09:42 AM   #40
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2008 F250 Diesel Oil Change

I haven't attempted to change the oil in my 2008 but it doesn't appear to be as much trouble as the Tundras. Ford has put the oil filter on top of the engine for easy access. So it would seem you'd just loosen the drain plug, then change the filter and then fill it up with oil. 15 quarts that is.

I'm paying $79.00 for the dealer to do my oil changes.
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Old 11-17-2007, 07:54 AM   #41
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Georgetown , Texas
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This post is off point considering the thread, but why not just leave off the decorative skid plate? If decorative is the operative word, what good is it anyway?

My 5.7 is a 4x2, and has that great "Off Road" decal, and even a skid plate, but if this thing ever gets off road it will be 100% unintentional.
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Old 11-17-2007, 08:13 AM   #42
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Durango , Colorado
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On my Avalance I change it myself using this... - the best way to change oil works great - just crawl under flip the valve, drop the oil filter and I'm done.

I won't go to Jiffy Lube anymore - I think they suck - - tear you engine apart and try to sell all this stuff you don't need - I took the Nisson to Valvolene and was pretty impressed with them - lot more professional - older folks changed the oil - not just a bunch of kids

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