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Old 03-11-2012, 05:05 PM   #15
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You have an excellent tow vehicle that is more than capable of towing your intended purchase. Just call Andy and arrange to have everything set up properly. Jim
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:10 PM   #16
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weight distribution

echo44,

More good advice to call Andy.

The weight distribution hitch will not reduce the tongue weight on the hitch. It will add a "moment load" at the hitch, which re-distributes the tongue weight between the front and rear axels. Assuming the structure of the car body and or frame can cope with these increased loads, the redistributed axel loads help the tires and suspension. In cars/trucks without self leveling suspension, this redistribution also gets the TV closer to level, for better suspension geometry and comfort.
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:12 PM   #17
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thanks everyone!!
I will call Andy to get some advice!
I also looked at the specs of the clouds another option is the 23' with front bedroom which has a significantly lower tongue weight.
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:18 PM   #18
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I wouldn't think you would be carrying water with you, usually you fill up when you get to your campsite? So that would free up some weight. As far as the land rover towing, we have an LR3 and won't tow with it all. We did a lot of research and we found a lot of people stating that it will tow it....but, it will cause damage to the LR, not sure how true that is. We just decided to use my husbands truck instead. And, the issue we heard most about was the hitch isn't great. Good luck.
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:18 PM   #19
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Spend some time inside the trailers at a dealer or a rally. Visualize yourself living/camping there, and where you will put stuff. Looking at spec's, we thought we wanted a 16' until standing inside and considered storage needs... then we got the 19'.
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:53 PM   #20
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Another consideration is tank sizes. Larger trailers carry more water and have larger black and gray tanks. This is likely to be the determinant for how many nights you can last without hookups. Search these fora for many posts on the topics of choosing the right trailer...
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:21 PM   #21
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Thumbs up Welcome Aboard....

"where would the extra weight come from?
I normally only travel with my clothes
a lawn chair. I was figuring the vehicle
dry weight 5400 than add 600more lbs water and food.
this brings me up to 6000 lbs?
the vehicle also has a computerized stability
system just for towing?
I guess I could go with a 23' "

Weight comes from "stuff", sure you can leave it home, but's what's the point in that.
Go camping without wife, dog, clothes, full lpg, fresh water, generator and a pantry full of food and adult beverages....not hardly.

Your "computer control" only comes into play after the trailer sway has started.

A quality receiver, brake controller, hitch with sway control, along with D load LT tires for the truck, is highly recommended.

Buy used if your concerned about depreciation, leaks, warranty concerns, filiform corrosion and everything else we talk about around here

My TV...I have more than I need, I prefer that path.


Bob
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aircampr
Many times have I heard the advice "choose your trailer first, then choose a tow vehicle."

Spend some time getting a grip on what you really need in a trailer. If the LR won't tow it, then maybe it is cheaper and less hassle to trade it in. In either case, you have to find the right compromise, with which you will remain comfortable. "Compromise" is the key word here.

My wife and I are just retired, and our kids are out of the house. We are "happy campers" in the 19' Bambi. We tow it with an SUV (BMW X5 diesel). This has been a perfect compromise for us because:
[*]The trailer is "cozy" and comfortable in a minimalist way.[*]There is just enough storage space in trailer and car, if we remain clever.[*]The rig is easy to drive and maneuver. We can go almost anywhere, and do not hesitate to pull into Safeway parking lots, etc.[*]We get 16 to 17+ mpg when towing.[*]The BMW is a great drive and gets 26+ mpg when not towing (most of the time).

Most of our friends have larger trailers and larger TV's:
[*]They can carry bicycles more easily.[*]They can carry more firewood, and other cargo (gas cans and generator…).[*]They get lower mpg.[*]They dont pull into Safeways as often, nor are as maneuverable.[*]They can invite company into their trailers.[*]When not towing, they have to drive a truck!


Hope this helps!

Charlie
Hi Charlie:
We occasionally tow a 19' Globetrotter with our BMW X5 diesel. We don't carry much of a load except
For full LP tanks I've observed that the rear of the vehicle drops significantly when we hook up. BMW doesn't recommend weight distribution/sway bars as it is specifically programed for towing when they install the optional hitch assy. I'm thinking weight distributing set-up anyway although the rig tows splendidly without. Your thoughts?
Tnxennis
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:35 PM   #23
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denellen,

Our X5 has the self-leveling rear suspension, so does not sag. Also our X5 is new 2012, and I don't want to void warranty. I have not discussed this explicitly with BMW to be sure warranty is a concern. I do know that the load distributing hitch can place significant moment (bending forces) into the hitch. The X5 factory hitch installs as a replacement of the rear bumper structure and bolts to to the mono body with four bolts. The Equalizer 600 hitch that we used before is a pretty hefty affair, and I am concerned about what happens when you drive up or down into a driveway or similar. Perhaps a lighter duty or better designed hitch would work better - or perhaps my worries are unfounded. (Of course, BMW factory hitch installation instructions say not to use load distribution.)

As many have suggested on this forum, ask Andy Thompson. He is likely to be more informed on this issue, and to suggest a hitch for your circumstances.

As for me, the sway is not an issue. We have no sag, due to self leveling. Our payload limitations are not a problem. The pitch over uneven roads can be noticeable, I don't consider that worth changing. It sure is a lot easier to hitch/unhitch with the plain ball hitch, and we are saving about 50 lb of tongue weight by not using the Equalizer 600.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:19 PM   #24
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Caution !

I'm an AS owner of just over a year and have read lots of threads on Air Forums, many of which dealt with your problem from different perspectives. You can access these threads by using the search feature. Just choose arguments that relate to your concerns.

The fundamental caution I've come away with is that you need to "design" your TV - AS combination not for the sunny days you're cruising the turnpike, but for the unexpected times such as when you're coming down a twisting mountain grade, or when some jerk cuts in front of you and hits his brakes--happened to me last Friday afternoon -- or you're hit by a sudden cross wind. Plan for the extremes, not the norms ...

Continue doing what you're doing right now, investigate, get detailed information, and make sure you really understand the towing demands of your AS and the capabilities of your TV. A key source should be the AS dealer who can give you sound advice.

I'm not sure, but I suspect that if you exceed the capabilities of your TV as specified in the owner's manual, that you may exposing yourself to serious liabilities should something go wrong, to say nothing of injury to you or others.

I have a load leveling feature on our Suburban, and its not a replacement for my wd hitch. A wd hitch does just that, it distributes the additional weight among the four axles. I'd be really hesitant to use a wd hitch to circumvent an axel loading limitation.

A final note, my wife and I travel pretty light, but we find that the "extra doodad" weight adds up fast. You need to include anything you're carrying in your TV as part of the total weight load on your TV; portable gen set, a couple bikes--in our case, kayaks--, a bocce ball set, an additional passenger or two ...

My $.02
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:52 PM   #25
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You need to dig into the owner's manual on many of these vehicles to see if auto-levelling, stability control, the receiver... etc... are compatible with a WD hitch. Another option is to look at the lighter/shorter models out there, or a used model. My 2006 22' has about 400lbs on the hitch ready to roll and around 5000lbs. The 25's are balanced differently and almost double the hitch weight.

It's not going to do any good to have a $2500 WD hitch that twists your LR into a pretzel the first bump you hit.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:40 PM   #26
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Now you have me re thinking WD for my liberty

Do I really need it or want it for 16fter. BMW has a habit of doing things right even there manuals I personally would trust them but rest of car makers no lol maybe toyota. I know UK folks are laughing at us they would pull 28fter with old mini. Here is new mini pulling what looks like light AS add 500 pounds in trailer, 400 in car lol would be different story. Looks little scary

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Old 03-11-2012, 11:51 PM   #27
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I agree Road Geezer about having stability margin to cope gracefully with adverse circumstances. To some extent, if one can anticipate conditions (such as road, wind, passing trucks), one can compensate by driving more slowly. But it is not enough to observe that sway did not occur at a given speed for your rig; stability requires that if any sway is excited by conditions it will damp out quickly. It is surely prudent to reduce your speed if you feel it.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:25 AM   #28
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Question Swayings...

18 Seasons towing a 63 22' Safari, 3500lbs, with an 85 Jeep Grand Wagoneer and 95 3/4 Suburban, and I can tell you for certain that a light weight single axle Airstream sway's...

Our MUCH heavier twin axle 25' Classic was much more stable, even with the same friction control system that we had used on the Safari.

Don't let the trailer's light weight lull you into a false sense of security.
A quality WD, sway control hitch properly set up will improve the towing safety of ANY Airstream.

Sweet Streams

Bob
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