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Old 06-14-2013, 02:52 PM   #1
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New TV Price Haggling

So as I continue to research for my purchase of TV and TT next year, I have a decent idea about how to determine "a fair price" on things....

With new AS's you all have given many points of advice about what to expect as far as % lower than MSRP.

I have only bought a new car one time - nearly 4 years ago....did not haggle much

My question is regarding a TV, if I go new (undecided) - how do I know what to pay? Is there a pretty much standard %off MSRP for trucks that you can expect to deal to?

Any advice about getting a good price new would be great.

I will not be trading in a vehicle, will sell my old toyota 1997 T100 on my own likely very easily.

Any help/guidance on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

I am in the process of thinking about logistics, budget, and deciding on route...

Toyotta offers 0% interest for 6 months, thinking Tunda 5.7L V8 for something in the realm of a 28' flying cloud, new or newish model. OR going say for some 3/4 ton route, have not ruled out say F250....need Crew Cab for kids.....gotta have me 4x4 (primative boat landings for my other use, etc).

I dont want this to spin into a TV brand debate (is that even possible )...as far as towing ability, in reading on this forum, the tunda 5.7 and say an F250 will do the job (as far as I can tell) and the specs allow comfortable room (as far as I can tell) to meet my needs. As will the F150 v8...I have not looked much at SUV's.

This vehicle will serve only two relatively limited (but critical ) purposes: the AS, and my bass boat.

But I am just figuring out prices, new vs. used...all that.

I have looked at some used stuff from Carmx, but jeez, those are pricey too..even for higher mileage ones...but still...you do save...so its a question still....no haggling with them though (good and bad I suppose)

Any advice about getting a good deal on a new or newish TV for my purposes would be appreciated! I can possibly be ready to buy in late fall or early winter...and most certainly will be ready to buy come spring/summer 2014....I figured that perhaps november-december may be a good time to pick up a new 2013 model if I go that route?

Thanks...
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:04 PM   #2
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One can normally go to 20% of asking price on Travel trailers/RV's (that's what I got). On TV's that all depends on how much the dealer is willing to make a sale.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:21 PM   #3
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Thanks Rick...I kinda was suspecting that...although it would be nice to now any points to predict or diagnose their motivation....without going in and sitting in their with them going back and forth for half a day.....its annoying.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:27 PM   #4
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My recommendation for the TV is do your homework on Edmunds.com to find out what others in your area are paying (on average) for the vehicle you want. That knowledge should help you negotiate a decent deal. Another suggestion is to go to a Credit Union in your area. Many of them have a car buying service that can usually get a prity good deal on new vehicles. This is a good way to buy if you are not good at negotiating .... or don't like the negotiations process.

Hope this helps and good luck with your new TT/TV combo!
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:41 PM   #5
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With Ford.You can buy for net dealer invoice then split the holdback (3%) minus any factory incentives.I got my dealer to remove the $500 regional dealer advertising listed on the invoice also but that is unusual.Ask to see the actual factory invoice for the unit you have selected.

With Toyota Invoice plus $500 minus any incentives ,again ask to see the factory invoice as most dealers print up their own and will have different numbers
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:43 PM   #6
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In addition to credit unions, Costco has a car-buying service, and I think Sam's Club and AAA do as well. Get a quote from whichever of those you qualify for and treat that as a max price.

You can then send email or faxes to dealers of the brand you want within the distance you're willing to travel and ask for their best price, to see if any of them will beat the price you got from Costco/Sam's/AAA/credit union. Make them respond in writing so you can take it with you to close the deal and make sure the final deal matches the proposal that gets you in the door.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:30 PM   #7
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Looks like Ford Superduties have $3500 cash incentives or 3.9% for 72mos (better off with cash back).

Toyota Tundra has $2750 cash incentive or 0% for 60mos (Financing may be the better deal here but run your numbers first).
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:05 PM   #8
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PharmGeek,

Do you research.
Check w/ credit unions, banks, etc... For loans, if you go that route.

Visit dealers and test drive any and all you want, that's free.

Time of year can play a factor as well. As new models come out they want the older ones gone. You can get good deals on 2 year new models, but they might not have what you want, manual, fleet, bare bones, cause they have been picked over.

Bring loan info, other dealers best quotes, edmunds reports, CASH, etc... and start your deal.

I hate haggling, so get up front with them so it goes quickly and keep them moving or they will keep you there forever.

Also, check their service dept's reputation. The closest dealer my not be the most reputable. Here in my case.

Tell them you won't pay for any of the BS line items, then they will know some of them off.

Also, ask for free stuff! If you choice doesn't have say step rails, make them put them on for free or you won't buy it.

Figure your cost of ownership, for each vehicle. Diesels are a lot more expensive to own, but in the long run, they last much longer.

Long box vs short box, navigation, Ecoboost, v8 vs v6' v8 or even v10, so many choices.

Check the payload on the driver door. Some models it with all the bells will have a lower payload capability. Also what you add aftermarket will affect your total payload.

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Old 06-14-2013, 06:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
So as I continue to research for my purchase of TV and TT next year, I have a decent idea about how to determine "a fair price" on things....

With new AS's you all have given many points of advice about what to expect as far as % lower than MSRP.

I have only bought a new car one time - nearly 4 years ago....did not haggle much

My question is regarding a TV, if I go new (undecided) - how do I know what to pay? Is there a pretty much standard %off MSRP for trucks that you can expect to deal to?

Any advice about getting a good price new would be great.

I will not be trading in a vehicle, will sell my old toyota 1997 T100 on my own likely very easily.

Any help/guidance on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

I am in the process of thinking about logistics, budget, and deciding on route...

Toyotta offers 0% interest for 6 months, thinking Tunda 5.7L V8 for something in the realm of a 28' flying cloud, new or newish model. OR going say for some 3/4 ton route, have not ruled out say F250....need Crew Cab for kids.....gotta have me 4x4 (primative boat landings for my other use, etc).

I dont want this to spin into a TV brand debate (is that even possible )...as far as towing ability, in reading on this forum, the tunda 5.7 and say an F250 will do the job (as far as I can tell) and the specs allow comfortable room (as far as I can tell) to meet my needs. As will the F150 v8...I have not looked much at SUV's.

This vehicle will serve only two relatively limited (but critical ) purposes: the AS, and my bass boat.

But I am just figuring out prices, new vs. used...all that.

I have looked at some used stuff from Carmx, but jeez, those are pricey too..even for higher mileage ones...but still...you do save...so its a question still....no haggling with them though (good and bad I suppose)

Any advice about getting a good deal on a new or newish TV for my purposes would be appreciated! I can possibly be ready to buy in late fall or early winter...afteand most certainly will be ready to buy come spring/summer 2014....I figured that perhaps november-december may be a good time to pick up a new 2013 model if I go that route?

Thanks...
After owning a Toyota for so long, you may be sorely disappointed with anything else. What is the tow capacity of the T100? Maybe you should tow with it- except it isn't a crew cab. I drive by a house every day where the guy still has his T100 and a new Tundra.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:03 PM   #10
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I bought a slightly used truck (6,000 miles) for at least $12,000 less than a similarly equipped new one. That is basically the reason I have it. If I hadn't gotten a good deal I would have just lived without.
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:06 PM   #11
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Whatever you decide, make them give you 0% on a new one and no more than 3.9% on a used one. If they won't, then go somewhere else. During the haggling process I slipped. When the finance guy asked me, "how 'bout 3.9?" I should have replied, "how bout 1.9?".
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:12 PM   #12
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See links below for tips on buying a new vehicle. I have used the New Car Price Report two times and have been very satisfied with the results.

If you don't like to haggle, Costco has a new car buying service that will instantly get you a price a few hundred dollars over what you might be able to get below. In the big scheme of things, this might be the easiest and most convenient way to go, if you don't enjoy playing this game with the dealer.

New Car: Things to consider from Consumer reports when buying a car

Build & Buy Car-Buying Service | New Car Buying - Consumer Reports

Note: To save on financing, get a pre-approved auto loan from your credit union BEFORE you visit the dealer. Also, negotiate "doc fees" and refuse factory floor mats, undercoating and "special" finishes (wax and/or paint sealant), which just inflate the dealer's profit. On both of our new car purchases, the dealer said we had to pay for paint sealant, because it was already applied. I told them to take it off, then; because I wasn't going to pay for it. Saved hundreds of dollars (and they didn't take it off).
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:40 PM   #13
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T100, 1997, has a V6...max tow cap 4000 lbs
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:40 PM   #14
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Also, if you are USAA or are eligible to be USAA, you can get a deal which is identical to employee pricing.
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