Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-21-2007, 02:19 AM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
wayne.yl's Avatar
 
1977 31' Sovereign
1992 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 168
Images: 5
my new tow vehicle

I just purchased the t/v of my dreams, a 2001 suburban 2500 and am looking for insight on what preventive maintenance I should perform. I don't want to take anything for granted, being this is the best t/v I have ever owned. Is it necessary to run synthetic oil since it has higher than usual miles,90K? Should I flush the radiator, change the belts, and service the transmission? I bought it from a dealer with an additional power train warranty but I am thinking I should do some preventive maintanance.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Wayne
__________________

__________________
wayne.yl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 08:51 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Vintage Kin Owner
Campton , New Hampshire
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,113
The short answer is yes. Now for the long answer. First thing is check all fluid levels yourself , Second , find out from dealer what , if anything was serviced by them , or recently . If both of the above look good , drive it for awhile ( 1000 or 2000 mi ) before you change too much . This will give you a zero bench mark to measure any changes you may make , get a feel for it .

I am a believer in synthetic fluids , especially in a truck that will work , but that is debatable. At that milage , and being used , it's a good time to change everything , all fluids and filters including differentials and transfer case . Flush radiator and replace cap and serpintine belt . Change plugs and wires . Lube everything you can underneath and everything above , door hingers and locks , hood hinges , etc.. Check your owners manual , I'm sure there is a major maintenence check for around that milage. Good luck
__________________

__________________
ticki2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 08:58 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
ALANSD's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,462
I would add to check the brake fluid color..change it if it seems at all dark. Flushing this is helpful to keep those brakes working right especially towing.

I also like a coolant additive like CRC from NAPA, to ensure cool running in any circumstance.
The 90K service probably overs much of this.If it has been done that is a good thing of course.
__________________
1966 Overlander
AIR #005
Please visit our blogs and web pages:
OUR AIRSTREAM PASSION! BLOG
RESTORING AN AIRSTREAM
Our AIRSTREAM and TIN CAN TOURIST Rallys
ALANSD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 09:07 AM   #4
Always Airstreaming!
 
rickandsandi's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
1960 24' Tradewind
Anytown , Connecticut
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,114
Send a message via AIM to rickandsandi
New for you!

Greetings Wayne and what fine truck you have. As mentioned, check with the dealer on what has been serviced on your new TV. Wether the truck was serviced by them or another dealer they do have complete access to the service records. Sounds to me you are ready for the 100K service. Have everything checked and changed, a very worthwhile investment since I am sure you plan to put another 75K on the truck. Changing out all the fluids at this time is a very wize decision. Also it is never too late to switch to synthetic oil. Good luck with you new TV!
__________________
J. Rick Cipot
Sandi Gould
NEU New England Unit
Airstream Life Magazine
Proud Member of WBCCI
WBCCI #3411
AIR #17099
2009 Silverado 2500HD
2004 22' Safari
1960 24' Tradewind
rickandsandi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 09:12 AM   #5
Aluminut
 
Silvertwinkie's Avatar
 
2004 25' Safari
. , Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,334
I would change all the fluids unless the dealer has already done this. Synthetic is optional, but if you do go synthetic in the differentials, some of the vent caps are not compatible with synthetic, particularly the front diff vent cap. If it's any color than white, it would need to be replaced before going to synthetic....the GM part # is 12479390. GM started to put the white vent cap (which was more compatible with synthetic fluid) in as of the '03 model year. Additionally there is a TSB for all GM truck 4x4 front drivelines that are used in cold climates. GM is recommending synthetic in the front diff if the vehicle is used in cold climates. I used Amsoil for it and have had no issues in over a year. If you are going to do a lot of towing, I would conside the maghytec rear diff cover:

www.maghytec.com

If this has the 6.0L engine I would use the UPF-44 Delco filters. These will strain even more gunk out of the filter as it has a lower micron rating.

Keep the zerks lubed, wash, wax and it will last a good long time.

Also consider mud flaps. The rear overhand gets pelted at times.
__________________
Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form. -NY Times 11/91
Silvertwinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 09:31 AM   #6
4 Rivet Member
 
S C Streamer's Avatar
 
1964 17' Bambi II
Santa Cruz , California
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 319
Images: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by ticki2
At that milage , and being used , it's a good time to change everything , all fluids and filters including differentials and transfer case . Flush radiator and replace cap and serpintine belt . Change plugs and wires . Lube everything you can underneath and everything above , door hingers and locks , hood hinges , etc..
Very good advice tiki2.

Stash your old serpintine belt in your tool box or vehicle for a spare.
__________________
Mark

1964 17' Bambi II
2005 Dodge 2500 PowerWagon -5.7 Hemi
WBCCI #4207
AIR #11485

"you don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows" ~bob dylan
S C Streamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 11:02 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
davidz71's Avatar
 
1986 25' Sovereign
Southern Middle , Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,149
Images: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by ticki2
The short answer is yes. Now for the long answer. First thing is check all fluid levels yourself , Second , find out from dealer what , if anything was serviced by them , or recently . If both of the above look good , drive it for awhile ( 1000 or 2000 mi ) before you change too much . This will give you a zero bench mark to measure any changes you may make , get a feel for it .

I am a believer in synthetic fluids , especially in a truck that will work , but that is debatable. At that milage , and being used , it's a good time to change everything , all fluids and filters including differentials and transfer case . Flush radiator and replace cap and serpintine belt . Change plugs and wires . Lube everything you can underneath and everything above , door hingers and locks , hood hinges , etc.. Check your owners manual , I'm sure there is a major maintenence check for around that milage. Good luck
There is no sense in replacing something the dealer just did so I agree, check to see what they did and verify this by looking a a work order if you can see it. I replaced my rear diff cover with a Mag-Hytec aluminum cover which gives me an additional 1.5-2 quarts cooling capacity. It comes with a magnetic drain plug and a magnetic screw-in dipstick to check fluid levels. It makes changing rear end fluid so much easier. I run Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 synthetic rear end lube. I think all the posts hit the nail on the head.
__________________
Craig

AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
davidz71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 11:41 AM   #8
Moderator
 
moosetags's Avatar

 
2015 25' FB Flying Cloud
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
2005 25' Safari
Santa Rosa Beach , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 10,762
Images: 5
I recently sold my beloved Petunia, a 2001 Suburban 2500 2wd with the 6.0 liter. She had 166,000 miles on her. She still ran very strong, and did not burn any oil. I had purchased Petunia new in December, 2000. I always did my own routine maintenance. I used synthetic oil exclusively. I also always added 10 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil to each tank of gas. I have always done this to any vehicle that I have owned.

When Petunia turned 100,000 miles, I replaced the serpentine belt, the spark plugs and the wires. She was still running good, and I did this per the manufacturer's recommmendations.

The only major mechanical problems that I ever had with Petunia were that she blew a rear transmission seal at 93,000 miles. You might want to have that checked and/or replaced on yours, as I was told that this was a common problem. Petunia also lost her ABS controller at 86,000. It was an exxpensive fix ($800.00) but not a common problem.

Best of luck with your Burb. I hope you do as well as we did with Petunia.
__________________
SuEllyn & Brian McCabe
WBCCI #3628 -- AIR #14872 -- TAC #FL-7
2015 FC 25' FB (Lucy) with HAHA
2005 Suburban 2500 Quadrasteer (Olivia) & 2018 Silverado 2500 (Lillian)
moosetags is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 12:06 PM   #9
3 Rivet Member
 
wayne.yl's Avatar
 
1977 31' Sovereign
1992 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 168
Images: 5
I knew you all would help! Thanks so much for the wisdom.
I will check with the dealer to find out all they did. They told me they did routine service already....I assume this is limited to an oil change.
RE.....

"If this has the 6.0L engine I would use the UPF-44 Delco filters. These will strain even more gunk out of the filter as it has a lower micron rating."

What filter do I use for the 8.1L?

Thanks,
Wayne
__________________
wayne.yl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 03:35 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
there is one area Id be careful about and do not get talked into it and
that would be an inline trans flush ,meaning they disconnect the trans
cooler lines and pump new fluid into it and the old is pumped out thru the
cooler lines .this procedure is known for dislodging particles and causing
problems with the valve body IE: internal issues ,sticking valves and such .
Ive seen it alot ,perfectly good operating trans (low miles or high, worse) flushed out
and then having troubles .Pan removal and filter replacement is the correct way to do this .If the fluid is burnt its life is short anyway ,so watch for
those flush specials as they can cost you .

Scott
__________________
scottanlily is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 04:19 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Vintage Kin Owner
Campton , New Hampshire
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottanlily
there is one area Id be careful about and do not get talked into it and
that would be an inline trans flush ,meaning they disconnect the trans
cooler lines and pump new fluid into it and the old is pumped out thru the
cooler lines .this procedure is known for dislodging particles and causing
problems with the valve body IE: internal issues ,sticking valves and such .
Ive seen it alot ,perfectly good operating trans (low miles or high, worse) flushed out
and then having troubles .Pan removal and filter replacement is the correct way to do this .If the fluid is burnt its life is short anyway ,so watch for
those flush specials as they can cost you .

Scott

If it caused more problems than it cured , it was not done properly . Perhaps they were back-flushed , or the new fluid was contaminated from working under the vehicle.
__________________
ticki2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 08:47 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
It only takes one in my book to know its not the way to do it .Theres a reason there is a filter inside the pan and in many import cars and some domestic ,a drain plug ,just like in most ford torque converters .The whole inline flush deal is a quicky way to make a profit ( I own and operate a repair shop ) and I won't do it .It quickly pumps out the old fluid and puts in new
and NO filter has been replaced nor has any of the particles and Grey clutch
sediment cleaned from the bottom of the transmission pan .Many Im sure
have been successfully done ,but many have not ,so try telling the customers
whos trans is now dead or slipping that the trans inline flush was a good idea.
you will not find any shop manual that suggests or recommends this type of flush .Ive got a few customers that had this done and it caused problems .
Done the wrong way ? . Regular maintenence is the key ,if it needs to be flushed because its bad,brown or even orange ,the trans life is limited anyway.There is no right way ,if you back flushed it and it dislodged particles
that fouled the valve body or shift solenoids then it should have not been done.Case study 2004 Rav 4 toyota 60000 miles ,had an inline flush performed by a knowledgable shop her son works at. next day the check
engine lite is on .I go to check it for her as shes an old customer and she wanted me to run the code ,it came up with a shift solenoid E malfunction.
now ,coincidence ? toyota transmissions have an impeccible reputation for being top in the industry .Well ,we know it had an inline flush ,and we know
it was totally fine before the flush was performed .So do as you will ,I say
its another case of what Ive seen many times .the transmission wasn't set up to be flushed out through the cooler lines in the first place .

Scott
__________________
scottanlily is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 09:37 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Vintage Kin Owner
Campton , New Hampshire
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,113
FWIW , the proper way to do the flush is to first drop the pan and change the filter before doing the flush . Cleanliness is also key , as is any transmission work . I know of 10 people locally who have had this done , including myself . Half of them had trans problems and were told by shops that they needed a rebuild . To date , all 10 are still running fine , without rebuilds , 2 years later .It is certainly not a cure-all , but it sure is good medicine . to each their own .
__________________
ticki2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 10:09 PM   #14
4 Rivet Member
 
SafariSS's Avatar
 
2005 30' Safari
Houston Texas , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 475
We have the same rig....

Tiki,

I have a 2001 w/84k miles. 2500, 4wd 6.0l engine. It is a fantastic tow vehicle, very solid. I tow a Safari 30, and get around 10-11mpg (not bad).

No problems aside from a bad t-stat. Keep those fluids changed!

__________________

__________________
SafariSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Which is best tow vehicle Van or Sedan? Mr Jody Hudson Tow Vehicles 10 10-06-2016 10:14 PM
F250 tow vehicle or flatbed? Cheryl Tow Vehicles 19 08-23-2007 02:58 PM
Tow Vehicle Options wlanford Tow Vehicles 10 05-23-2005 01:18 PM
1975 Cadillac Eldorado as Tow Vehicle overlander64 Tow Vehicles 9 11-04-2002 08:04 AM
4x4 tow vehicle... or not? Cheryl Tow Vehicles 11 08-23-2002 12:00 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.