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Old 12-07-2012, 08:44 AM   #43
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Actually, there are tire pressure vs weight capacity tables from most tire manufacturers that should be referenced to help in choosing less than the maximum pressure and weight capacity allowed printed on the sidewall of the tire. The door jamb numbers are about ride comfort more than weight capacity for towing.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:10 AM   #44
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Actually, there are tire pressure vs weight capacity tables from most tire manufacturers that should be referenced to help in choosing less than the maximum pressure and weight capacity allowed printed on the sidewall of the tire. The door jamb numbers are about ride comfort more than weight capacity for towing.
Yes, there are charts about weight vs air pressure, but I've found there's more to it than just weight when you are towing and seeking stability. The max pressure that a rear tire will handle will get you the max stability available from that paticular tire. It may not be needed in every case, but the OP obviously has a sway problem.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:35 AM   #45
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Actually, there are tire pressure vs weight capacity tables from most tire manufacturers that should be referenced to help in choosing less than the maximum pressure and weight capacity allowed printed on the sidewall of the tire. The door jamb numbers are about ride comfort more than weight capacity for towing.
Not for work all capable trucks. IIRC, the Silverado 2500 HD I just got out of said 70 psi front 80 psi rear. That's set up for GAWRs specifically at full load. When I was empty and using it for company travel I backed it off so I wasn't loosening up my crowns!

You need to analyze what is in your particular driveway before making these decisions.

Go to a mini van or 1500 series SUV and crossovers, your are correct. But if even they have a different setting for front and rear, you should pay attention to that proportion when loading....OR BETTER YET, got to the scales and determine where you are relative to GAWR proportionally.

You can get some squirrelly handling on some vehicles, loaded properly, if you just assume and go to max sidewall as a default.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:46 AM   #46
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A short story:

I recently changed tires on my 3/4 ton pickup. Had Michelins, went to Perelli's. The Michelin had no sway issues, and I ran 70 psi in the rear, 60 in the front (E rated tires). The Perelli's had sway issues to the point it felt like I had a very low tire with the same pressure. Stopped at a roadside park, pulled out the little compressor, aired up the rear tires to 80 psi........ no more sway problems.

Different tires have different hardness of rubber compounds, and produce different driving "feel".

And this is with a ProPride hitch, so tire pressure is very important.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:54 AM   #47
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This topic is the classic case of the "the more you learn, the more you realize you do not know."

By the way, people seem to reference "Andy" a lot -- does this guy just spend his time helping people out of the goodness of his heart or does he charge some sort of consulting fee? I almost feel bad consulting the guy unless I am going to be buying something from him...

I still feel like from a financial perspective it makes sense for me to start with hitch solutions prior to buying a new vehicle, but I must say that the more I search the forum, the more I keep finding threads that then make me question everything and wonder if I just need to get a big rig.

This is kind of interesting/fun, but also kind of frustrating.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:07 AM   #48
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If you were retired, and towed the trailer almost daily, I would suggest you get a bigger tow vehicle. But, you have stated the vehicle is also your wife's driver. So I would suggest you do all the cheap things first, like first adjust tire pressures. Next work with the adjustment of your hitch to get the most out of it.(if need be recruit some expereinced help) If then you are still not satisfied, go to a better hitch, and I recommend the ProPride. At this point you still have not spent the "big bucks", and have spent no money foolishly.

Then if you are still not satisfied, consider a more capable tow vehicle. Just my suggestions having gone thru this before you.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:16 AM   #49
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This topic is the classic case of the "the more you learn, the more you realize you do not know."

By the way, people seem to reference "Andy" a lot -- does this guy just spend his time helping people out of the goodness of his heart or does he charge some sort of consulting fee? I almost feel bad consulting the guy unless I am going to be buying something from him...

I still feel like from a financial perspective it makes sense for me to start with hitch solutions prior to buying a new vehicle, but I must say that the more I search the forum, the more I keep finding threads that then make me question everything and wonder if I just need to get a big rig.

This is kind of interesting/fun, but also kind of frustrating.
CSNY words of wisdom to live by,

"Don't let it get you down, it's only castles burning. Just find someone who's turning, and you will come around...."

Find an expert locally who can lay hands on your rig and set you up with the proper equipment and knowledge. I'll bet one of the forum members lives close by.

Keep reading though, so at least you know the right questions!
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:21 AM   #50
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A short story:

I recently changed tires on my 3/4 ton pickup. Had Michelins, went to Perelli's. The Michelin had no sway issues, and I ran 70 psi in the rear, 60 in the front (E rated tires). The Perelli's had sway issues to the point it felt like I had a very low tire with the same pressure. Stopped at a roadside park, pulled out the little compressor, aired up the rear tires to 80 psi........ no more sway problems.

Different tires have different hardness of rubber compounds, and produce different driving "feel".

And this is with a ProPride hitch, so tire pressure is very important.
In retrospect, My jamb may have been 60/70 and I was lowering it to 50/60 for solo travel. Is that what your jamb says?
Mine had snow plow prep too which may have changed the label. Anyway, the proportion is my important point.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:26 AM   #51
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My door jam states 60-72 with 265/70/17 LRE tires, and I assume this is good for truck's rated capacity. When I use the truck for a while without the trailer, I reduce the rears to 60 psi for a more comfortable ride.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:28 AM   #52
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My door jam states 60-72 with 265/70/17 LRE tires, and I assume this is good for truck's rated capacity. When I use the truck for a while without the trailer, I reduce the rears to 60 psi for a more comfortable ride.
OK, I had the 18" tires, probably the difference there. Thanks.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:09 AM   #53
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Zeppelin,
What you really need is a minivan with a V6 engine....that's what all the Canadians say is THE best!


Honestly, I would have no concerns towing the the OP's 28 footer with my V6 Traverse...the extra 1000 lbs over my 25 footer would hardly be noticeable, at least around these parts. Proper setup is the key. As for power/performance, that all boils down to personal preference...everyone has to decide what is acceptable for them.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:39 AM   #54
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Actually, there are tire pressure vs weight capacity tables from most tire manufacturers that should be referenced to help in choosing less than the maximum pressure and weight capacity allowed printed on the sidewall of the tire. The door jamb numbers are about ride comfort more than weight capacity for towing.
Not quite the door jam numbers are the MINIMUM pressure for the max GVW of the vehicle. IMO you are right this does not take towing into account and the weight charts don't either.

On a resent trip I forgot to put the friction sway bar on when hitching and during the first 45 minutes the rear tires of my vehicle increased 6 PSI from heat buildup. Then I stopped and put the friction sway bar on and during the next 30 minutes the rear tires dropped to 4 psi over their starting pressure which is were they stayed for the next and final 45 minutes of the trip. This shows that added stress from sway puts more load on tires in addition to weight.
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:53 PM   #55
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Not quite the door jam numbers are the MINIMUM pressure for the max GVW of the vehicle. IMO you are right this does not take towing into account and the weight charts don't either.

On a resent trip I forgot to put the friction sway bar on when hitching and during the first 45 minutes the rear tires of my vehicle increased 6 PSI from heat buildup. Then I stopped and put the friction sway bar on and during the next 30 minutes the rear tires dropped to 4 psi over their starting pressure which is were they stayed for the next and final 45 minutes of the trip. This shows that added stress from sway puts more load on tires in addition to weight.
Edit: I misread your statement. Most all of the time this is true. There are exceptions, but probably not for any vehicles we'd talk about in this towing forum. (except if you're Canadian) JUST KIDDING!

However, back to our original issue, Just because you MAY add air to the rears, up to max sidewall, does not mean you should do the same to the front.
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:47 AM   #56
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Andy does not charge any fees for his suggestions. He has set up hundreds of trailers (not just Airstreams) with many using smaller tow vehicles, like my Mercedes ML320 CDI diesel. Obviously, if you buy something in the future, that is a bonus. I found out about him on the forum. I ended up driving over there from Arizona (4,400 mile round trip) to have my Mercedes factory hitch reinforced so I could pull with a weight distribution hitch (I chose a Hensley, also from the forum). He gave me some initial suggested settings over the telephone for the car tire pressure and Hensley hitch that worked spot on for the initial tow home.

He also writes in some of the RV industry magazines on the subject of towing. At the CanAM website, some of his articles are links you can read.

The challenge for me is daily I learn I have more to learn and my opinions change with the additional input of new information.
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