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Old 12-08-2012, 08:50 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
"that is capable of safely towing your trailer.
Completely agree -

I should likely have expanded -

If you want to drive a truck, then look for a truck that can safely pull the AS,
If you want to drive a minivan, then look for a minivan...
If you want to drive a cross-over, etc.

but what is safe or not safe is still a personal decision. There are no carefully crafted independent studies that demonstrate superiority of one solution over another. There is only opinion.

Similarly there are no published safey stats (at least not that I have found or seen referenced).

I would argue that the most important safety components are proper hitch set-up, Tires, good maintenance and the nut behind the wheel.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:21 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by MaxTow View Post
Completely agree -

I but what is safe or not safe is still a personal decision. There are no carefully crafted independent studies that demonstrate superiority of one solution over another. There is only opinion.

Similarly there are no published safey stats (at least not that I have found or seen referenced).

I would argue that the most important safety components are proper hitch set-up, Tires, good maintenance and the nut behind the wheel.
Yes, and there is another point that lots of people choose to ignore, and that is towing conditions.

Just because something works in one area of the country and in certain types of terrain, absolutely does not mean it will work everywhere. Also, there are different driving conditions and laws in different parts of the country, and those must be considered as well.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:48 AM   #63
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Fastway is owed by the same folks who build the original equalizer. Dealers tend to offer them as part of the package. My 28 footer came with one that the PO got with the trailer new (2010 model). It was sorely undersized and not set up properly at all.

For a 28' flying cloud you need 1000 or 1200# bars. The dealer set it up with 800# bars and the wrong drop. The PO only took it on one trip and seemed very tense about towing it. After I bought it, I found out why!

I spoke both the AS customer service and Equalizer. I sold the Fastway and bought an Equalizer. I bought large enough bars to set it up properly for weight distribution. It provides the anti-sway as advertised and also was resonably easy to set up for weight distribution. I considered the Hensley and Propride but cost and additional tongue weight (they're heavy) caused me to go in another direction.


Your description of big trucks sucking you over on the interstate is evidence the anti-sway isn't functioning and if that's the case, you are highly likely not gettting adequate weight distribution to the front either. Both are dangerous conditions and you were wise to slow down and get off the fast lanes.

So:
1. Check the E2 bars for their capacity. There should be a sticker on them showing bar capacity.
2. If the bars are large enough, assure that the hitch is adjusted properly and that you are getting weight distribution to the front of the vehicle. Installation instructions are on the Fastway E2 website. This means the proper elevation of the ball (i.e. the drop must be adjusted properly) and then the angle of the bar trunions to cause the appropriate down force of the bars on the L-pads attached to the trailer A-frame/tongue.
3. Proper adjustment within the specs will get you a level vehicle when the trailer is hitched and also provide the anti-sway you need.

You can get adequate anti-sway with an Equlizer style hitch. Equally important with all hitch set-ups is the weight distribution that is needed. It takes both to safely tow a trailer. So don't neglect either.

Longer term you may need or choose to step up to a vehicle that can handle the gross weight and tongue weight of a 28' trailer. But I suggest you sort the hitch issue out first.

I have been through this same tangle with Fastway and a 28' FC - holler if I can help you.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:15 AM   #64
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I would not have anything but a diesel if i were going to pull anything in hilly conditions. There will be people who say gas motors can do the same, they just cant. As far as gas engines, your tahoe probably has a 5.4 motor, so any upgrade to a 3/4 to vehicle should give you the 6.0l motor. This itself will give you a better towing experiance. Basically it is all in what you want for comfort in towing and day to day driving. The 6.0l motor will be a little worse on fuel economy on the day to day and probably about the same on the pulling if you take into account how hard the smaller motor has to work. To bad Ford doesnt make the Excursion any more with the power stroke motor, problem would be solved !!!!Once you pull with a diesel you will never go back!!!!
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:33 AM   #65
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Since your Tahoe won't pull your trailer up a hill (It'll really get fun when you go where there are mountains.) You need a tow vehicle with more power.

The 3/4 Suburban with the larger engine will get you up the mountain and the larger brakes will get you down. The stronger suspension will help all around.

Once you do that you can sort out hitches, tire pressure etc.
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:45 PM   #66
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Yea, I know how much it weighs, but just because you have a tow vehicle that is rated for the weight you are towing, or more, does not mean you will necessarily have a good towing rig. The setup is always the important point, and many times depending on hitch type, could take a great deal of time to get right.
Steve,

Are your trailers the lightweight versions?

1 no wd
2 wd adjusted

Bob
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:01 PM   #67
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Steve,

Are your trailers the lightweight versions?

1 no wd
2 wd adjusted

Bob
Two different trailers. The first ticket is for the current '10 31' Classic, and the second is for the previous '04 28' Classic, but with the ProPride.

The weight tickets were not testing hitch setup, but for Texas licensing purpose as both were bought out of state, and neither title had a weight stated.
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:27 PM   #68
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Steve,

Were you loaded for camping on your tickets?
Hard to figure why your 31 Classic weighs so much less.


Model: 2010 - 31' CLASSIC LIMITED DINETTE TRAILER

CHASSIS
10,000# GVWR • 10,000# Axle System • 7153# UBW • 2847# NCC • 760# • Aluminum Wheels • 15" Radial Black Wall Tires, LRD • 12" Electric Drum Brakes W/Nev-R-Adjust Brakes and Nev-R-Lube Hubs • Electric Hitch Jack • Manual Stabilizer Jack w/Pads • Aluminum Step w/Extension • Stainless Steel A-Frame Protectors • Spare Tire & Bracket.

It's nice to see that AS saw fit to match the axles to the loaded weight, and you have a more realistic CCC of around 2000lb.

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Old 12-08-2012, 04:58 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Steve,

Were you loaded for camping on your tickets?
Hard to figure why your 31 Classic weighs so much less.


Model: 2010 - 31' CLASSIC LIMITED DINETTE TRAILER

CHASSIS
10,000# GVWR • 10,000# Axle System • 7153# UBW • 2847# NCC • 760# • Aluminum Wheels • 15" Radial Black Wall Tires, LRD • 12" Electric Drum Brakes W/Nev-R-Adjust Brakes and Nev-R-Lube Hubs • Electric Hitch Jack • Manual Stabilizer Jack w/Pads • Aluminum Step w/Extension • Stainless Steel A-Frame Protectors • Spare Tire & Bracket.

It's nice to see that AS saw fit to match the axles to the loaded weight, and you have a more realistic CCC of around 2000lb.

Bob
Bob,

It's been a while on the 28' so I honestly don't remember, but the 31' was loaded with our normal stuff that we keep in there for going to local rallys, not loaded for a long trip. I figure we easily tip the scales at 8K on a trip.
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #70
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But in both cases, all water tanks would have been empty, and mostly full propane tanks.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:01 PM   #71
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Interesting thread here because I was looking at some larger TVs recently...Suburban and Sequoia, but they are just too dang big for me. My wife will also most likely be driving this vehicle a little bit, so we started looking at the exact same Tahoe as the OP...5.3L V8 for a 19' Bambi (GVWR 4500#), and I was going to ask if anyone had any input on this. Looked like the Tahoe would be plenty powerful, but really wanted to ask people's opinion on this setup, as most of our traveling will be out west in and around the Rockies.

Thanks!
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:05 PM   #72
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For a 19'er, it is fine. I would still not skimp on a good no-compromises WD hitch setup.

My old SOB weighed in at 5500 loaded and I towed it all over the Rockies and Smokies with 4.3 liters, 5.7s and 5.3s. The 4.3 was WEAK. 5.7 and 5.3 were fine. Plus the new ones have 6 speeds, making them even better.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:16 PM   #73
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After advise from Andy Thomson of Can-Am RV, we just bought a new 2012, 27' FB international signature and a Hensley hitch. Our TV is a Ford Expedition. Andy's team "fine tuned" our Hensley and it is amazing! We drove 1830 miles on our maiden voyage and most of the time on major highways at 65-75 mph with semi's whipping past us. Had one hand on the wheel and it was smooth sailing. Didn't even feel like we had a huge trailer behind us. I would highly recommend a new hitch first and advise from Andy before buying a big truck. If I (a Newbie woman) felt that safe on this long journey, so can you!!
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:40 AM   #74
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Zeppelin,
My rig is similar to yours. I have an '07 Burb with the 5.3, and I have a 25 foot Flying Cloud. Between them is the Equalizer hitch. We live in California and tow mountain passes on virtually every trip. We've logged about 10,000 miles towing this past year. The rig tows effortlessly and is as stable as a rock. We climb grades at the speed limit with no problem. BUT, it does require high revs, which the 5.3 is designed to do. I only have a 4 speed trans. If you are new to towing with the 5.3, you might be concerned about the high revs. I was at first. It is not a problem.

I think the Tahoe is a good TV and is common. And, we know the AS is the best towing TT there is. So, that brings us to the "thing in the middle" which is your hitch and your setup as being potentially the problem. Of course if money is no object a new TV might be the right answer. But if you like the Tahoe and want to keep it, I would think that a properly setup hitch is the first step to try. Whether it is a common one like EQ or Reese, or an exotic one like ProPride, it needs to be carefully setup. My money would be bet that your rig will suddenly behave very well.

One other difference we might have is that my Burb has the 20" 50 profile tires and they provide excellent resistance to sidewall flex. Even with my simple EQ hitch, I have no sway at all. I attribute part of that to my tires.

Best of luck to you getting it sorted out. My fairly simple rig tows like a dream, and is not in any way a "white knuckle" affair. My wife can drive it while I sleep.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:28 PM   #75
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Thanks for the great post. As others have mentioned, forums have robust search functionality, but it's the anecdotal posts such as this that to me make posting a new thread worthwhile.

I'm feeling more comfortable with the idea that my Tahoe is sufficient to pull my Airstream. I think part of my problem is that I was alarmed at the high revs, but after hearing so many people say "that is normal," I'm going to treat it as such.

Regarding the hitch, a) I'm not convinced mine is properly set up and based on your story below, I could probably calibrate it to work properly. Alas, there is a certain vanity aspect to this, though, and I can't stand how this hitch sounds as I'm lugging around a campground looking for a spot. All the loud popping sounds and creaking and rubbing just doesn't sit well with me. If it was the best hitch out there, I'd live with it, but knowing that there is something better for towing that will also eliminate all this noise makes me want to upgrade.

Along with the hitch either being adjusted or upgraded (and that one accordingly adjusted), I'm finding more and more that tires are likely a big culprit here. Andy Thompson actually emailed me twice today and he spent about 10% of his emails on the hitch and about 90% on the tires. The ones I'm running have absolutely too much flex in the sidewall, and he made a few recommendations for me that I intend to utilize. I'm not sure how fast I will move on this as I'm not looking to go camping in the coming weeks, but I will certainly be doing it in the coming months and will keep those here posted as to the results.

-Zep

Quote:
Originally Posted by mstephens View Post
Zeppelin,
My rig is similar to yours. I have an '07 Burb with the 5.3, and I have a 25 foot Flying Cloud. Between them is the Equalizer hitch. We live in California and tow mountain passes on virtually every trip. We've logged about 10,000 miles towing this past year. The rig tows effortlessly and is as stable as a rock. We climb grades at the speed limit with no problem. BUT, it does require high revs, which the 5.3 is designed to do. I only have a 4 speed trans. If you are new to towing with the 5.3, you might be concerned about the high revs. I was at first. It is not a problem.

I think the Tahoe is a good TV and is common. And, we know the AS is the best towing TT there is. So, that brings us to the "thing in the middle" which is your hitch and your setup as being potentially the problem. Of course if money is no object a new TV might be the right answer. But if you like the Tahoe and want to keep it, I would think that a properly setup hitch is the first step to try. Whether it is a common one like EQ or Reese, or an exotic one like ProPride, it needs to be carefully setup. My money would be bet that your rig will suddenly behave very well.

One other difference we might have is that my Burb has the 20" 50 profile tires and they provide excellent resistance to sidewall flex. Even with my simple EQ hitch, I have no sway at all. I attribute part of that to my tires.

Best of luck to you getting it sorted out. My fairly simple rig tows like a dream, and is not in any way a "white knuckle" affair. My wife can drive it while I sleep.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:31 PM   #76
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This is my exact dilemma, too. If necessary, I could buy a Suburban or F-250, but the reality is that I have a young family -- two toddlers -- and a very busy job. As a result, we're going to be blessed to get out 6-10 weekends a year to camp. So, do I really need to be buying some oversized powerhouse to pull my trailer when 90% of the time it's going to be doing mom duty? It would be nice to be able to compromise on that a bit, which is why I'm excited to see if working with hitch and tires might afford me the ability to stick with the Tahoe, which is just right for Momma and has the added bonus of being paid for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by muskypicker View Post
Interesting thread here because I was looking at some larger TVs recently...Suburban and Sequoia, but they are just too dang big for me. My wife will also most likely be driving this vehicle a little bit, so we started looking at the exact same Tahoe as the OP...5.3L V8 for a 19' Bambi (GVWR 4500#), and I was going to ask if anyone had any input on this. Looked like the Tahoe would be plenty powerful, but really wanted to ask people's opinion on this setup, as most of our traveling will be out west in and around the Rockies.

Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:49 PM   #77
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So glad you spoke to Andy. Can-Am installed new tires on our brand new AS and I have his recommendation for new tires on our Expedition. You are in good hands!
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:10 PM   #78
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Quote:
I'm feeling more comfortable with the idea that my Tahoe is sufficient to pull my Airstream. I think part of my problem is that I was alarmed at the high revs, but after hearing so many people say "that is normal," I'm going to treat it as such.

Regarding the hitch, a) I'm not convinced mine is properly set up and based on your story below, I could probably calibrate it to work properly. Alas, there is a certain vanity aspect to this, though, and I can't stand how this hitch sounds as I'm lugging around a campground looking for a spot. All the loud popping sounds and creaking and rubbing just doesn't sit well with me. If it was the best hitch out there, I'd live with it, but knowing that there is something better for towing that will also eliminate all this noise makes me want to upgrade.

Along with the hitch either being adjusted or upgraded (and that one accordingly adjusted), I'm finding more and more that tires are likely a big culprit here. Andy Thompson actually emailed me twice today and he spent about 10% of his emails on the hitch and about 90% on the tires. The ones I'm running have absolutely too much flex in the sidewall, and he made a few recommendations for me that I intend to utilize.
-Zep
I'm glad you're getting good advice. Everything Andy has told me turned out to be very accurate.

You need to lubricate the bars where they go into the sockets on the ball mount. That will get rid of the popping and groaning. I've kept an old tub of wheel bearing grease handy for that purpose, but I've just learned from someone else on this forum that lithium grease (white lube) works well and doesn't attract dirt in the same way. Plus, you can simply spray it on.

WDHs don't need to be complicated to work well, just properly adjusted. I'm completely happy with my Eaz-Lift with a pair of friction sway controls.

If you can comfortably tow at 65-70 mph on the interstate (and there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to) and learn to enjoy the sound of that small block spinning at 4000 rpm in the hills, the time saved with a more powerful tow vehicle will be nothing compared to money saved.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:37 AM   #79
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I'm glad you're getting good advice. Everything Andy has told me turned out to be very accurate.

You need to lubricate the bars where they go into the sockets on the ball mount. That will get rid of the popping and groaning. I've kept an old tub of wheel bearing grease handy for that purpose, but I've just learned from someone else on this forum that lithium grease (white lube) works well and doesn't attract dirt in the same way. Plus, you can simply spray it on.

WDHs don't need to be complicated to work well, just properly adjusted. I'm completely happy with my Eaz-Lift with a pair of friction sway controls.

If you can comfortably tow at 65-70 mph on the interstate (and there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to) and learn to enjoy the sound of that small block spinning at 4000 rpm in the hills, the time saved with a more powerful tow vehicle will be nothing compared to money saved.
Thanks for the note. It sounds like regardless, I need to switch tires out. Then, maybe I'll give this ol' Equalizer hitch a chance lubricated as you suggest before plopping down $2500 on the PPP. Appreciate the info.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:53 AM   #80
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Zeppelin,

Here is my take on the EQ from a road test I did a couple years ago. I have since gone to a Hensley that I found used. A PPP is now my preferred setup. FWIW, I discuss lubrication and setup.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...est-76068.html
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