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Old 07-22-2006, 09:23 PM   #1
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Thumbs up Lawn Tractor For Parking?

Does anyone have experience using a lawn tractor to repark a 27' or longer Airstream? I have some turning radius problems trying to get my trailer squared away at home when using my long wheel-base TV to manuver the trailer just where I want it.

The hitch bracket on the lawn tractors I've looked at seem rather lightweight.

Any experiences would be appreciated.

Gig 'em.

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Old 07-22-2006, 09:31 PM   #2
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I've seen lawn tracktors with hitches at both ends, on different RV lots.
If your tractor can support a 3-point htich it shold be fine on the back.
If your tractor can support a front end loader it should be able to carry the tounge weight on it's front axle. It is up to you and your welder to add the proper size ballmount. I'm thinking of a mid sized kubota in a mostly flat yard.
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:44 PM   #3
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When I think of a lawn tractor I see something way too light to move a trailer - can you give any more info on what you are going to use?

When I park my trailer I also have some tight maneuvers, with little side clearance. I ended up with a Power Caster (there are other similar devices, I just happened to pick this brand) and it took all the concern away. I could turn the trailer in a circle if needed to, it moves fast enough to get the job done but not so fast that I worry about getting too close too fast, and with a spotter it is pretty easy to get the trailer where it needs to go.

It was one of those purchases where I didn't really want to spend the money up front, but after getting it I have never had a regret, it makes putting the trailer away so easy.
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Old 07-22-2006, 11:29 PM   #4
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We use a lawn tractor to move our GT into it's space, but i don't think it could handle a 27-footer. We did modify the rear and add a ball-type hitch. The issues you have to consider are the tongue weight & power. Our tongue weight is less than 450 lbs and we bought a front bumper to stack 3 bags of tube sand on (180lbs) to get it front doing a wheelie. Our lawn tractor is 16hp and is fine on a level ground, but to get into the parking space, we have a slight grade which we need to get a running start at. Our GT weighs in at 3500 lbs...I'm certain a 27-footer weighs much more so you would need more power & weight IMO. Our situation is temporary (new house) we will be pouring a new slab on more level ground this fall, which should make it easier.

Shari
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Old 07-22-2006, 11:35 PM   #5
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I saw a tread earlier where some folks have put a receiver on the FRONT of their pickups, which they use for bike racks, etc., and to backup and maneuver their trailers.

Check "search" - it was interesting.
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Old 07-23-2006, 07:03 AM   #6
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Kubota BX1850

Timely question. I just took these yesterday! I use a Kubota BX1850 to move my 3,000 lb 17' Bigfoot and an aluminum utility trailer around, but the 3pt max weight is around 400 lbs. It's about the largest "lawn tractor" and is slightly smaller than the Case IH DXxxE series, the John Deere 2305, and the Massey Furguson 2300. The Kubota BX2350 is in their size class.

I wouldn't consider even trying to move my Airstream with my Kubota. I don't think any of those would work for your Overlander either. They're too lightweight and so are their hydraulics. I think you're probably looking at a 30hp minimum tractor for enough weight and 3pt capacity. If you check with your local dealers, they all give specs for the lifting capacity of the 3pt hitches.

Roger
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Old 07-23-2006, 07:07 AM   #7
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rog you gotta bring that combo to davenport this year!

it might take ya 3 days to get there! ha ha!

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Old 07-23-2006, 07:09 AM   #8
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I may have to leave early, but I'll get three hours out of a gallon of diesel. How's THAT for fuel economy!

Think I ought to change my avatar?

Rog
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Old 07-23-2006, 12:50 PM   #9
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If your yard is paved, then a small fork lift will do very nicely. I use one to park my Overlander inside the warehouse, and it works very well. It won't be an option if you are moving your trailer on gravel or dirt.
I bought my fork lift used, it was less than a new powercaster. Besides i needed one anyways for business.
It is a nice tool for axle installs etc as well. Put a pallet on it,and have a great elevated work platform.
I know it's not for everybody, but it happens to work very well for me.
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:51 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the input. I'll check with local dealers and get accurate spec's before deciding. Looks like it would take a pretty hefty tractor to move the trailer around safely. Not sure I want to invest that much.

Gig 'em.
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Old 07-24-2006, 12:27 PM   #11
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Have you considered a vintage real tractor? My family has a 1949 Super C that's plenty big enough to move around a trailer, but they're cheap and parts are still available and reasonable enough for them. I'm pretty sure it's going to outlast ME.

Farmers have a unique viewpoint about old work tractors. Threw a rod? Fix the rod and weld up the hole in the crankcase. (That was done to this one about thirty years ago, and it's still chugging.)

Lamar
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Old 07-24-2006, 01:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. E
Does anyone have experience using a lawn tractor to repark a 27' or longer Airstream? I have some turning radius problems trying to get my trailer squared away at home when using my long wheel-base TV to manuver the trailer just where I want it.

The hitch bracket on the lawn tractors I've looked at seem rather lightweight.

Any experiences would be appreciated.

Gig 'em.

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Go Here http://www.powermoverinc.net/

This is what I use, best customer service I have ever had. I can put my trailer through an opening with one inch on each side.

Good Luck

Jim
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:38 PM   #13
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Vintage tractor is an interesting idea. There is a very active vintage tractor group in this area. In fact they have a museum here in Temple, Texas. I'll check it out and see where it leads.

I'm aware of the Powermover option, but hoped to get double duty from the mover (aka - lawn mower). Scratching my head, now.

Gig 'em.
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:51 PM   #14
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Pick up an old Ford N tractor. You can get one for under $2000 for one that needs a little TLC, and they can be used as lawn tractors, snowplows, bucket loaders, trailer parkers, heck, they can even be used as tractors.
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:08 PM   #15
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Been There, Doing That ...... Again

At the risk of bringing up Andrew Thompson, (Can-AM RV, London, Ontario, Canada) while I was taking delivery of my 2002 31 foot ASCL I expressed a desire to be able to maneuver it with my Honda 3013 hydrostatic riding lawn mower. The follow photos show the dolly which he fabricated. To use it I do the following:
  • Insert the drawbar into the back flange on the mower (where the diagonal grass catcher strut is inserted in the photo).
  • I raise the AS with the tongue jack
  • Then lower the front stabilizer jacks to support the AS
  • Then raise the tongue jack and position the dolly such that when I lower the tongue jack it inserts into the vertical tube protruding above the dolly
  • Lower the tongue jack into the vertical tube (the mechanical disadvantage puts less than 100 lbs on the mower flange)
  • Raise the stabilizer jacks
  • Pull away with AS
Additionally, if the dolly is flipped over it allows for hand maneuvering by inserting the tongue jack into the tube on the other side of the dolly (REALLY needs to be on level pavement to hand maneuver!).
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by withidl View Post
At the risk of bringing up Andrew Thompson, (Can-AM RV, London, Ontario, Canada) while I was taking delivery of my 2002 31 foot ASCL I expressed a desire to be able to maneuver it with my Honda 3013 hydrostatic riding lawn mower. The follow photos show the dolly which he fabricated. To use it I do the following:
  • Insert the drawbar into the back flange on the mower (where the diagonal grass catcher strut is inserted in the photo).
  • I raise the AS with the tongue jack
  • Then lower the front stabilizer jacks to support the AS
  • Then raise the tongue jack and position the dolly such that when I lower the tongue jack it inserts into the vertical tube protruding above the dolly
  • Lower the tongue jack into the vertical tube (the mechanical disadvantage puts less than 100 lbs on the mower flange)
  • Raise the stabilizer jacks
  • Pull away with AS
Additionally, if the dolly is flipped over it allows for hand maneuvering by inserting the tongue jack into the tube on the other side of the dolly (REALLY needs to be on level pavement to hand maneuver!).
Good way to buckle the stabilizer. Dave
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:16 PM   #17
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Good way to buckle the stabilizer. Dave
I considered that stress. My Limited AS has the electric jacks which go across the entire width of the AS. The jack legs readily take the load without any flexing. I do NOT use the stablizer jacks to LIFT the trailer, only to SUPPORT it after the tongue jack has lifted. I've done it many times without incident as the stablizers easily carry the STATIC load.
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:48 PM   #18
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By god there is more than 1 way to move a camper, I would of never thought about using the jack that way.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:34 PM   #19
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Why not just put a jack stand under the tongue instead of using the stabilizers?
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:08 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by dorfgog View Post
Why not just put a jack stand under the tongue instead of using the stabilizers?
The design of the dolly is such that it's axle is about 8" behind the tongue jack tube when connected. This leaves no room on the curb side for a jack stand because the LPG gas line runs UNDER that side of the frame.

On the street side room for a jack stand is very marginal and when the tongue jack is raised sufficiently to move the dolly into position my jack stands have to have blocks under them since they are not quite high enough.

Additionally, jack stands can't be positioned under the body of the AS because the belly pan covers the frame.

But the real bottom line is that the electric stablizer jacks are THERE, they work and they KISS!

Have others ever RISK trying to use the electric stablizers to support their AS, or just ASSumed they will fail?
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