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Old 05-30-2011, 07:04 PM   #15
one of those
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2011 27 FB International
'03 F250 PSD , Airstream summers, Catalac winters
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,079
There's an idea. Standard marine battery switch. I have LOTS of experience with these.

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Old 05-30-2011, 07:58 PM   #16
Rivet Master
1988 25' Excella
1987 32' Excella
Knoxville , Tennessee
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my 1988 will draw down the tv starter battery unless the tv has and isolator. the trailer does not have the tv isolation built in.

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Old 05-30-2011, 09:00 PM   #17
Rivet Master
2005 19' Safari
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Aug 2004
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Our original tow vehicle was a 1978 Chevy crewcab pickup. When we bought our 19-foot Bambi in 2005, the Airstream dealer wired the truck for the new connector for the Airstream (the other existing connectors were for older travel trailers and boat trailers and were incompatible with the newer trailer connector). Part of the rewiring under the hood was installing an inline isolation relay for the "hot" line to the trailer. The activation voltage was connected to the ignition, so that the line was only hot when the pickup ignition was turned ON; otherwise, it was disconnected. Our 2008 Tundra came from the factory similarly wired.

However, there are still electrical items in the trailer that will drain the trailer battery, even when the "storage switch" is used. For this reason, I installed a marine battery isolator switch, which completely disconnects the trailer batteries from everything. Our trailer now has two Optima Blue Top marine batteries, which have held a charge for up to six months in storage. Optima advertises that their batteries will hold a charge for up to a year, and I believe that ours would last that long. However, I turn the marine switch ON for 24 hours (overnight) about once a month to allow the converter to charge the trailer batteries. This keeps our batteries ready to go while eliminating the possibility of overcharging, even though our Airstream is connected to 110V continuously.

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