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Old 01-15-2007, 12:42 PM   #15
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1993 21' Sovereign
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I didn't tell you to do this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul NC
Good point!

Wonder if one could sneak that through their AAA rv coverage?
You could always tell them your tow vehicle broke down, and you need the trailer towed across town. The worst they could do is say "No way."
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Old 01-15-2007, 01:22 PM   #16
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Towing in Ashtabula

Welcome, Fellow N. Ohioan!!
Kevin (Overlander64) about captures it all. Better safe than sorry. Another alternative, if you can't find someone there with a 4 wheel drive (after all it IS snow country!) is to rent a U Haul truck, 3/4 ton or better with a hitch. A day's rent can't hurt too bad, if you only move it a couple of times a year.

Larry- LaGrange, Ohio
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Old 01-15-2007, 01:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistral blue
I thought '71 31' Sovereigns weighed in the neighborhood of 7100#.
My 73 weighs in about 5300#. I'm pretty sure the 7100# figure is the Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight (MVGW) or what you can load it up to.

A Couple other tow factors.
1. Are you going to be towing on the flat or in the hills?
2. Given vehicles similar in other respects there can be a world of difference in towing performance depending on the rear end gear ratio and if the tow vehicle has overdrive. If you get a high gear ratio it will tow best at highway speeds but may struggle and shift all over the place going up a good hill. If you get a torquey low end stump puller rear end, it will handle hills great but you may rev real high if you can get to highway speed. There is also a middle ground rear end. Tire size can have a similar effect. Big tires go faster, small tires give more torque.
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Old 01-15-2007, 04:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
the factories include a safety factor when they publish those ratings.

Really? That's a blanket, general statement. Can you get one of the companies that publishes these specs to put what that saftey factor is on paper? Most likely, they won't. Why? Liabillity. My 2nd cousin works for GM in their truck division and told us flat out when we talked about this last summer that one should never exceed the rated limit. The max rating is just that, a max rating and it's even better in some cases to be under the rated limit....of course, wheelbase, frame construction, brakes, axles, etc also play a significant role, all of which the GC has about enough for itself and a short, light trailer.

Back to the heart of the question on this thread, yes a 1/2 would be better for a 31' and a 3/4 ton even better seeing that you may exceed 6000lbs, but only if you are going to tow it. In your case I agree, most of the ancillary conversations here are moot since you may move it as little as you will and most likely have someone move it for you saving yout tens of thousands of $$$.
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
Really? That's a blanket, general statement. Can you get one of the companies that publishes these specs to put what that saftey factor is on paper? Most likely, they won't. Why? Liabillity.
absolutely. that liability is why they're already artificially low. what's going to happen if I pull 7201lbs in my 7200lb rated truck? is it going to disintegrate, like the blues-mobile on Daley Plaza? turn into a pumkin? and what do you think the likelyhood is of someone putting 1601lbs in the bed of a similar truck? pretty damn high, I'd guess.
I'm not arguing that anyone should pull a large trailer with a jeep; Nor did I suggest exceeding factory ratings. I'm just saying that setting your own 70% limit on a number that is already underrated is a waste of a good truck. that's all. If they thought that's all it should tow or carry, they'd have said so.
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loudruff
rent a U Haul truck, 3/4 ton or better with a hitch. A day's rent can't hurt too bad, if you only move it a couple of times a year.

Larry- LaGrange, Ohio
Most U-Haul trucks either don't have hitches, or have a 2 1/4" ball welded to the hitch, which in turn is welded to the truck.
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:59 PM   #21
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Wow.

my first post i really bringing in some responses.

Anyway, no worries on solving this debate right this second, I'm not going to be towing it anywhere right now, probably a month or two from now, but not right now.

And per the general consensus, I won't be towing it with the jeep, although I'm suprised by how little respect it gets in the towing department. I had no idea this vehicle was so inept at towing. I'm not experienced with airstreams at all, but horse trailers, yes, and I've towed quite a few with this vehicle, although I'm sure they were much lighter.

In any case, I appreciate all the responses, and will most likely pay someone to move it for me when it needs moved. After trying airstream living out for a few months, I may get my hands on a nice tow-capable truck...but for now I suppose I can find some friends who will tow it (given that it'll reside at a local campground, I'm sure someone there should have a sufficient setup.

Thanks again for all the help, I can tell already this forum is going to provide an infinite amount of information I can use ;-)
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
all. If they thought that's all it should tow or carry, they'd have said so.
This is not to start a fight or anything like that, just something to think about.....

Can you really trust what automakers tell you is safe? Lets look at the honesty record....

Toyota sold incomplete chassis to several RV makers in the 80's. Some of those RV makers overloaded the chassis/rear axle which caused separation of the wheel from the axle.
Ford sold the Pinto and latest gen Crown Vic which if rear ended cause a nice big bonfire suitable for roasting weinies.
Ford sold the Explorer which was too heavy, with too short a wheelbase, to soften the ride they told owners to use 26psi, which of course causes overheating of tires. Roll baby roll.
The federal government forced air bags on us before testing data was fully available.

There are other examples. Out of these, the only ones who ever fessed up and made it right was Toyota which gave floating axles to the RV makers. Ford and the US government has yet to fess up to theirs.....

So, I don't think I want to trust what an automaker tells me to make me feel safe.
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Most U-Haul trucks either don't have hitches, or have a 2 1/4" ball welded to the hitch, which in turn is welded to the truck.
I've never heard of a 2 1/4" ball... must be so you can't tow anything but a Uhaul trailer?
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:41 PM   #24
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Doh!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul NC
I've never heard of a 2 1/4" ball... must be so you can't tow anything but a Uhaul trailer?
Sorry, I meant 2" ball. I was thinking about your trailer's 2 5/16" ball, and got my numbers tangled around my, uh, never mind.
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Sorry, I meant 2" ball. I was thinking about your trailer's 2 5/16" ball, and got my numbers tangled around my, uh, never mind.
Hehehe... it made sense to me since Uhauls trailers use that top adjustment... I've only used a Uhaul once.
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:46 PM   #26
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Auto makers and government have both cooked numbers to try to make you believe the lie of the moment. That's why there is independent research, and failure analysis labs. And, of course, the internet, Al Gore's personal invention... (just to prove the 'don't believe everything they tell you' idea)
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