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Old 02-06-2009, 01:40 PM   #15
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1967 26' Overlander
Upperco , Maryland
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I'm with Vitamin C (Deitz) on this one. I don't think you need to think 350/3500 unless you are pulling a very serious load.
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:40 PM   #16
Augie R.
 
1960 22' Safari
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Ok one more option....I know this subject is beaten to death but I just want to make sure one more time....

Ok it's a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limitted 4x4 5.2lit V8 with 148k mles
no visible leaks drove smooth 4x4 works fine a couple of dings but thats expected for $1,500.

Now the Chevy is going for $h13,500 basicly my down payment would buy this other truck .....

I'm going crazy here I know I should take my time but it's been 3 months ive been looking ...any good thoughts??
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:43 PM   #17
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If you are towing a 1960 Safari that is listed in your profile ....

Airstream does not list a 1960 Safari. For 1961 the Safari dryweight was 2900. Say fully loaded you were at 3500, the 3/4 ton Chevy would be far overkill. In fact there might be some negative towing issues with that combo.

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Old 02-06-2009, 01:46 PM   #18
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The Jeep was designed to do 6500 pounds of trailer with the following:
Requires automatic transmission. Requires Trailer Tow Package. Requires weight-distributing hitch.

This all assumes it is in good condition. If it is, it would be a better choice than anything else you have brought up.

A TV with the capacity of 4 to 6 thousand pounds would be a great choice, if the total towed load is 3500 pounds or less.

My next recommendation would be to run the trailer across the scales in full towing set up. This will give you a better place to start. Many things can and do happen over the years.

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Old 02-06-2009, 02:01 PM   #19
Augie R.
 
1960 22' Safari
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hey there thanks for the help I think I'm going with the Jeep for now to good of a price hope I didn't just jinx myself

About the year it's whats on the title...How would I find out what year it was actualy made?

Wish me luck folks I'm going to the bank.....
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:05 PM   #20
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I believe the VIN stamped on the side of the trailer would do it. My 1966 has a VIN plate on the curb side just ahead of the door under a side window.

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Old 02-06-2009, 02:10 PM   #21
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Vin#220243D ok Now what?
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:12 PM   #22
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thanks by the way
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:59 PM   #23
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220243D = Ohio built 22 foot Safari with Double bed floor plan. It may have been built late 59 or early 60. The dry weight would be around 3000 pounds.
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Old 02-06-2009, 03:24 PM   #24
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If the Jeep has the tow package you will be just fine.
Take that money saved and purchase a good modern hitch (maybe used Hensley off of flea bay) and some McKesh tow mirrors. Bring the Jeep maintentance up to date - make sure the cooling system is flushed, thermostat is ok and change all fluids - differentials, transmission, transfercase - think about using synthetic fluids.
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Old 02-06-2009, 03:48 PM   #25
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Invest in a transmission cooler as well. Many vehicles that come with a "tow package" will have the transmission cooler included, but if not, you can have a shop put one in for something like $100. It's great insurance now that could potentially save you thousands on a transmission rebuild later.
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augier View Post
Vin#220243D ok Now what?

It's a Ohio 1960 22 Safari double bed layout. The dry weight will be around 3200 to 3400lbs the tongue weight will be around 325 to 400lbs. When you pack up the trailer to move it home be careful of the weight distrbuton.
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:19 PM   #27
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1960 22' Safari
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when I head home all there will be inside is the floor ...I'm building everyting else when I get home..

Well I got the truck it does have a tranny cooler & it has a factory tow package

I have my electric brake already all i have to do is install it.

I ws thinking of using my original hitch that I found in the trailer it has a weight dist.

but the way its welded on the trailer is kinda sketch here are some pics what do you guys think...

The gaps at the brackets welded on to the frame seem weird....
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:27 PM   #28
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It looks like a Reese WD setup. The ball is for a friction sway control. Not the best you can buy, but it works and is what I use with my trailer. You should have some pretty light bars to go with it and the trunnion head to go into the receiver.

Here is a guide to get it setup correctly.
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