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Old 08-29-2016, 12:35 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Everyone's different, the numbers are only a starting point.

We know how much truck we need based on towing our present Airstream all over the country many times the past five years with our Reg Cab Ram Hemi. We are out 6-7 months a year without a need for much gear in the truck bed and the Airstream loads well-balanced. The coil spring suspension and ProPride hitch provide a very smooth and stable ride for us and our Airstream, and a shorter wheelbase provides great maneuverability.

So when we bought a new one early this year we stayed with the Ram 1500, but added two more seating positions for the occasional extra passenger, 3.92 axle ratio for towing, a small diesel engine with low rpm torque and 8-speed transmission for smooth delivery of power, excellent compression braking, and remarkable fuel economy in normal conditions (28-29 mpg solo, 16-17 towing, 24.9 mpg average all miles since new, near half towing).

That's how much truck WE need, a perfect match for us and our Airstream. We love this combination, couldn't be more satisfied.
Exactly!
Not sure that the OP used apples/apples comparison by looking at those specs posted. For example: My 2012 Ram 1500, 4x4 with the smallest V8 they put out that year (4.7L) pulls the 22' Safari Sport (4500# with 450# tongue wt) beautifully with an ordinary ball hitch.
BUT.... the rear axle is a 3.92 and, this is important, the tires are 17" 265-70-17s. If you buy the Latest-FAD 20" tires with ghetto wheels... you'll lose big time in the towing capacity...ON TIRE SIZE ALONE. That was a huge surprise to discover smaller wheels tow larger loads, and it's not due to outside diameter of the tire (which is very similar.)

Now, to be completely honest... I bought the truck before I realized we'd be buying into a travel-trailer lifestyle...so this truck is what we already had. Although it does just fine.... if I had it to do over again I'd probably opt for the larger 5.7 V8, just for the acceleration and hill-climbing capability.
But as I tow no faster than 65 and don't mind taking hills a little slower for safety anyways.... I'm fine with what I have.
I do plan to upgrade to disc brakes on the AS when it's time to do brakes, primarily out of concern for downhill braking with regular tow hitch.
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Old 08-29-2016, 12:38 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Mach5 View Post
And yet that is exactly what a jury would be asked to do in a civil suit following a vehicle accident involving a death where the investigation discovered that the tow vehicle was loaded beyond the manufacturers displayed maximum payload rating.

Not saying that this applies to your situation; sounds like you have your rig dialed in and within applicable safety limits.

I just know enough about jury trials involving personal liability to be concerned about my own actions and decisions.
I can tell you most Airstreamers reporting tongue weight here are over 1,000 lbs, Airstream warns us to "NEVER EXCEED 1,000 LBS" in our Airstream Owners Manual. Our w.d. hitches are often rated for 800 lbs, carrying our 1,000 lb Airstream hitch weights. There is a plate on our Airstreams advising us tire pressure is 65 or 80 lbs, many of us run less for various reasons. And that's only the beginning.

Do you think we should just stay in bed in the morning?

Seriously, this idea has been raised on every towing discussion, sooner or later, never substantiated for recreational vehicles, it doesn't have any legs.
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Old 08-29-2016, 12:51 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxite View Post
Exactly!
Not sure that the OP used apples/apples comparison by looking at those specs posted. For example: My 2012 Ram 1500, 4x4 with the smallest V8 they put out that year (4.7L) pulls the 22' Safari Sport (4500# with 450# tongue wt) beautifully with an ordinary ball hitch.
BUT.... the rear axle is a 3.92 and, this is important, the tires are 17" 265-70-17s. If you buy the Latest-FAD 20" tires with ghetto wheels... you'll lose big time in the towing capacity...ON TIRE SIZE ALONE. That was a huge surprise to discover smaller wheels tow larger loads, and it's not due to outside diameter of the tire (which is very similar.)

Now, to be completely honest... I bought the truck before I realized we'd be buying into a travel-trailer lifestyle...so this truck is what we already had. Although it does just fine.... if I had it to do over again I'd probably opt for the larger 5.7 V8, just for the acceleration and hill-climbing capability.
But as I tow no faster than 65 and don't mind taking hills a little slower for safety anyways.... I'm fine with what I have.
I do plan to upgrade to disc brakes on the AS when it's time to do brakes, primarily out of concern for downhill braking with regular tow hitch.
The difference between 265/70R17 and 275/60R20 is 1.2 inches in diameter. It has nothing to due with the wheel size and everything to due with tire/wheel weight and diameter. Also the load index of the tire.
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:08 PM   #60
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I have "ghetto wheels".
I didn't set out to get them, they were just on the truck when I bought it.
I do have the big 5.7L V8 and 4:30 rear end gears.
Maybe that compensates for the ghetto wheels?
If I had ordered the truck I might have gotten 17" wheels.
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:13 PM   #61
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I am running 20" wheels on my truck.

The difference effectively makes my 3.73 gears about 3.50.


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Old 08-29-2016, 02:32 PM   #62
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Change tire height=reprogram the PCM.

Wheel diameter ?



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So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:36 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
I can tell you most Airstreamers reporting tongue weight here are over... And that's only the beginning.

Do you think we should just stay in bed in the morning?

Seriously, this idea has been raised on every towing discussion, sooner or later, never substantiated for recreational vehicles, it doesn't have any legs.
I do love to sleep in, especially on a work day. But to answer your question; we should roll out of bed every morning and embrace the day with a clear head and open mind.

I have read enough of your posts to believe that you are not publicly advocating that we indiscriminately ignore the manufacturers maximum ratings on our vehicles and equipment.

But I have to ask, since we are discussing using the equipment on public roads, why isn't the default response on this forum to err on the side of caution and safety rather than to recommend a course of action that can only serve to increase the risk of a catastrophic event, even if only slightly? What benefit is worth it?
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:50 PM   #64
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Old 08-29-2016, 03:01 PM   #65
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3.92

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxite View Post
Exactly!
Not sure that the OP used apples/apples comparison by looking at those specs posted. For example: My 2012 Ram 1500, 4x4 with the smallest V8 they put out that year (4.7L) pulls the 22' Safari Sport (4500# with 450# tongue wt) beautifully with an ordinary ball hitch.
BUT.... the rear axle is a 3.92 and, this is important, the tires are 17" 265-70-17s. If you buy the Latest-FAD 20" tires with ghetto wheels... you'll lose big time in the towing capacity...ON TIRE SIZE ALONE. That was a huge surprise to discover smaller wheels tow larger loads, and it's not due to outside diameter of the tire (which is very similar.)

Now, to be completely honest... I bought the truck before I realized we'd be buying into a travel-trailer lifestyle...so this truck is what we already had. Although it does just fine.... if I had it to do over again I'd probably opt for the larger 5.7 V8, just for the acceleration and hill-climbing capability.
But as I tow no faster than 65 and don't mind taking hills a little slower for safety anyways.... I'm fine with what I have.
I do plan to upgrade to disc brakes on the AS when it's time to do brakes, primarily out of concern for downhill braking with regular tow hitch.
3.92 is an excellent choice. I bet it does pull well. That is a good combination of trailer size and truck geared correctly Boxite.
I had an older Dodge Ram 1500 with a 3.55 rear end, and it couldn't do much with a small trailer here in the mountains of Virginia. You get to the piedmont or Tidewater where it is level, it wasn't half bad. I didn't like winding it out in second gear @45 on I-77 up Flat top or Fancy Gap. If it could have stayed in third, and locked up the torque converter so as to Not generate as much heat in the transmission, I may have kept it longer, but 3.55 was just to tall.
eh, I would have needed my current Ram anyhow, with the AS 28', so it all worked out. I have 4.10 in my current Ram.
Have a good one !
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Old 08-29-2016, 03:56 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Change tire height=reprogram the PCM.



Wheel diameter ?







Bob


Nah, I just know my speedometer is off by 5 MPH at 70.


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Old 08-29-2016, 04:01 PM   #67
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How Much Truck Do You Need?

What if the half ton is safer with the ProPride than a one ton with some other hitch?

Maybe PPP hitches are required for lawsuit prevention and/or to be truly safe on the road too?

It really is not all that complicated. A person needs to figure what the limits of his vehicle are and drive accordingly.

If a person does this well, his setup is as safe as the next.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach5 View Post
I do love to sleep in, especially on a work day. But to answer your question; we should roll out of bed every morning and embrace the day with a clear head and open mind.



I have read enough of your posts to believe that you are not publicly advocating that we indiscriminately ignore the manufacturers maximum ratings on our vehicles and equipment.



But I have to ask, since we are discussing using the equipment on public roads, why isn't the default response on this forum to err on the side of caution and safety rather than to recommend a course of action that can only serve to increase the risk of a catastrophic event, even if only slightly? What benefit is worth it?




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Old 08-29-2016, 04:03 PM   #68
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Our 2012 and 2016 Ram 1500 trucks came with 20" wheels. The load capacity exceeds the axle ratings and the low sidewall stiffens the truck against any sway tendency. The first set of Good Year Wranglers lasted 45,000 miles before going badly out of round (still plenty of tread) and prompting a new set of Michelin 20's. I'm happy with the size for towing and everyday use.
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Old 08-29-2016, 04:22 PM   #69
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. . . But I have to ask, since we are discussing using the equipment on public roads, why isn't the default response on this forum to err on the side of caution and safety rather than to recommend a course of action that can only serve to increase the risk of a catastrophic event, even if only slightly? What benefit is worth it?
Good question. Experience with our tow vehicles has taught us manufacturer ratings are not always a good indicator of a vehicles safety. In other words bigger, stronger is not always safer. Two to three thousand pounds extra weight is harder to stop, turn, lends to higher rollover probability and more likely to injure others and occupants if it does.

Note that not all trailers tow as safely as an independently suspended, low center of gravity, low frontal and side wind resistance Airstream.

Note that some w.d. hitches are relatively ineffective, many are set up wrong, some reduce sway to a varying degree and some eliminate the possibility of sway.

There is no default response, each tow vehicle and trailer combination must be evaluated on its own merits for safety. Manufacturer ratings are a starting point, but there is a lot more to a safe combination.

That's what we want to learn in these discussions.
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Old 08-29-2016, 05:54 PM   #70
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A false sense of security is probably worse than the wrong hitch, tv or tires.
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