Help a girl find a tow vehicle

[star kitty]

Originally Posted by davidz71

star kitty,
Check your glove compartment for the RPO build code sheet glued to the inside of that door. Here are a few of the axle codes:

GV1 2.73
GU4 3.08
GU5 3.23
GU6 3.42
HO5 3.73

If you have the 3.42, 3.23, 3.08 or worse, the 2.73 then you have a rear end ratio not conducive to towing. I had a '92 Chevy 1500 Z71 4X4 that had the 3.42 rear end and a 350 V8. The engine was good but it was hell going up hills.

I found that label but the only number with a decimal point is 131.5. That does not sound right according to your description. There are a bunch of letters and numbers but nothing with a decimal point.

It sounds like the consensus is there is something wrong with the engine. It very well could be old and worn out. It has low miles for the year - 1999 with 113k. But you can tell from the hitch pin it has done some towing in its life. I will take it to my mechanic and have him check the compression....or just sell it and get a newer vehicle!

[DKB_SATX]

Re: the RPO label:

The actual axle ratios will NOT be on the RPO label, just the 3-character RPO code that represents it. Look at the codes again, looking just for the codes.

If you don't find it, but take the 'burb to a mechanic regarding the problem, have them find the axle ratio. A low numeric ratio really kills the truck's towing ability.

[davidz71]

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

Re: the RPO label:

The actual axle ratios will NOT be on the RPO label, just the 3-character RPO code that represents it. Look at the codes again, looking just for the codes.

If you don't find it, but take the 'burb to a mechanic regarding the problem, have them find the axle ratio. A low numeric ratio really kills the truck's towing ability.

That is correct. You will only see the RPO code on the left. I put the axle ratio to the right of the code so that she would know what ratio she had and could give us maybe an idea what is going on.

So star kitty, do you have any of the RPO codes I posted?

[Jammer]

I agree that with a light trailer like that a 1500 Suburban should be plenty. If after having it looked at by a mechanic you still conclude you need something larger, consider a Suburban that is set up better for towing, ether with one of the more powerful engine options, or a lower rear end ratio, or with the 2500 3/4 ton package.

[ROBERT CROSS]

At the last Chevy store I worked at it was not uncommon for the new and used car departments to regularly let potential customers do a towing road test. We sold a lot of work trucks for contractors so it was not uncommon at all. Look for a Dealer that sells a LOT of trucks.

Sad but true.... on the older GM's, up and thru 06, inspect the hitch receiver for rust and weld cracks, OEM=junk, plan on replacing with a good aftermarket.



I agree with Moose T and Jammer, your Burb has a problem, the 1500 should have no problem pulling your trailer.

[Gringo]

Doing a search trying to find someplace that has older vehicles listed by tow rating ( havent found one yet) I did come across an article written for the 2005 vehicles that were new at the time. Since those are now almost 7 years old now, this could be useful info for someone looking to buy a used TV in the 2005 model year range, or probably a year or so on either side.

RV Lifestyle - Feature Article

[timmaah]

Gringo..

Trailer Life has all the way back to 1999 on their site
Towing Guides

[Gringo]

cool. Trailer Life was a good find for me. I've already signed up.
I've been jumping around all morning trying to find some kind of 'classic' vehicle that can tow the 7600 lb 27FB. Since we are looking at a vehicle that would only be used two months a year, I am thinking it would be way cool to have something a little bit more fun than just another cookie cutter carbon copy F-250. I've been looking at classic Landcruisers, Lincolns, Cadillacs, etc. Not having a lot of luck even finding the tow ratings on the older vehicles.

[star kitty]

Originally Posted by davidz71

That is correct. You will only see the RPO code on the left. I put the axle ratio to the right of the code so that she would know what ratio she had and could give us maybe an idea what is going on.

So star kitty, do you have any of the RPO codes I posted?

I have a label called Service Parts Identification and its full of codes that I don't know how to read. The only code with a decimal point is 131.5 on the top of the list and that doesn't sound right.

I didn't realize these cars came with different axle ratios. Anyway, I plan on taking it to a mechanic for a check-up and looking for a new vehicle from there. It sounds like I'm gonna have to step up financially to get a good vehicle. Like the Touareg and Tahoe so far and they are priced about the same in the used range. You always need more storage capacity than you think!

Gringo - love your blog and your dog. Can I come visit?

[Gringo]

Sure, but that Globetrotter is going to max out American Airlines on the luggage allowance.

We're having a heck of a time figuring out how to get the dog to the USA next month, at the moment. For anyone who is interested, American Airlines is absolutely OUT of the running for transporting pets. They won't take them if any temperature on the itinerary is forecasts to be 85 deg.F or higher. Pretty much leaves that out as an option for flying from Provo to Miami to Houston in August.

Continental is looking good, They provide airconditioned accomodations for pets as baggage, but we might have to fly to Nassau to get the direct flight to Houston....sigh...

Any of you guys wanna work a deal to pick us up in a Citation or even a nice Pilatus turboprop? We'll pay the fuel....

Hmm...has Airstream ever considered building a catamaran?

[tpi]

If its a '99 4x4 it may be impractical and too expensive to swap the axle gears so I won't suggest that.

In the next vehicle just look for the biggest engine possible in that vehicle, and the highest numerical axle ratio (4.11 etc) . Perhaps big block suburban, or the 6 liter versions would work better.

One thing I'd like to add, and really is my reason for posting is expectations for towing performance. Any vehicle towing anything is going to be down on performance on your high mountain passes. Any non turbo gas engine is going to be severely down on power at 11,000 ft. Even with the most powerful near 400 hp. gas trucks w/ tow packages you will feel a 3500-4000 pound load at 10,000 ft.

There is a lot of "can't feel it back there" statements posted on internet message boards regarding trailer towing. Most of them are the result of people having no sense of sensation, and oblivious to the actual dynamics of how the vehicle is handling. On all but the smallest trailers you can feel it back there and the effect is huge.

So what I'm trying to say in this post is maybe a bit of lay back, relax, find a gear where the tow vehicle is comfortable at 3800 RPM (or so) even if its at 30-35 MPH on these high passes. You won't be the slowest out there. Who cares if a semi passes you? You are in the country's toughest area for towing performance.

[73Argosy]

I had a 2001 GMC 1/2 ton Yukon pulling my 26 foot 1973 Argosy in Colorado years back and it did very well. It did have the lower axle gear ratio and on long climbs it really revved but I always kept up with or passed traffic. I now have a 1973 29 foot International and I pull that with a 2000 3/4 ton Suburban that has a 6.0 with 249,000 on the clock. I had the computer tuned by a gentelman from wait for me performance and that made a huge difference with the 6.0, I have even been able to pull 17mpg after the tune. I can feel the better torque with the 6.0 but hated giving up the ride of the 1/2 ton. I do have and use the equalizer hitch and antisway bar when traveling and it does make a huge difference. The old 350 is beat hands down with the new 5.3 or 6.0. Not sure if that helps you but I think getting into the "newer" GM body style would help considerably with power AND handeling. That would be the 2000 to 2006. Good luck and have a great day.

[jspafford]

Star Kitty, I understand your reluctance to buy a truck. We considered lots of tow vehicles and settled on a passenger van. It does so much! It is a great tow vehicle with oodles of towing capacity, super visibility, and amazing storage space. With the seats in it takes a crowd to the ball game. Take the rear seats out and you have another bedroom for your camping or room for all the lumber for your next project.

And the best part is the price. Most of the used vans started out as rental or van-pool vehicles, and never had any towing miles. It doesn't have all the bells, whistles and leather of an SUV - which in many ways is a good thing!

I took a quick look on the Denver Craigslist and found this sample using "express passenger" as search terms in the cars/trucks page:
2007 Chevrolet Express Van 8 Passenger ALL WHEEL DRIVE 12 Pass

Pretty good price for an AWD that should do well in a Denver winter. 42k miles, tow package, and $16.5k. A pretty good deal, I think. I have no relationship with or interest in the seller.

Happy towing!

[star kitty]

Originally Posted by jspafford

Star Kitty, I understand your reluctance to buy a truck. We considered lots of tow vehicles and settled on a passenger van. It does so much! It is a great tow vehicle with oodles of towing capacity, super visibility, and amazing storage space. With the seats in it takes a crowd to the ball game. Take the rear seats out and you have another bedroom for your camping or room for all the lumber for your next project.

And the best part is the price. Most of the used vans started out as rental or van-pool vehicles, and never had any towing miles. It doesn't have all the bells, whistles and leather of an SUV - which in many ways is a good thing!

I took a quick look on the Denver Craigslist and found this sample using "express passenger" as search terms in the cars/trucks page:
2007 Chevrolet Express Van 8 Passenger ALL WHEEL DRIVE 12 Pass

Pretty good price for an AWD that should do well in a Denver winter. 42k miles, tow package, and $16.5k. A pretty good deal, I think. I have no relationship with or interest in the seller.

Happy towing!

Hi John.

Thanks for the idea...another guy had mentioned that as well. Unfortunately, I live in a very old house in Denver that does not have a modern garage. It's barely long enough for the Suburban and will not have the head room for a tall vehicle!

But I love the price....

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Gringo

cool. Trailer Life was a good find for me. I've already signed up.
I've been jumping around all morning trying to find some kind of 'classic' vehicle that can tow the 7600 lb 27FB. Since we are looking at a vehicle that would only be used two months a year, I am thinking it would be way cool to have something a little bit more fun than just another cookie cutter carbon copy F-250. I've been looking at classic Landcruisers, Lincolns, Cadillacs, etc. Not having a lot of luck even finding the tow ratings on the older vehicles.

7,600-lb GVWR was right at the top of passenger car tow "limits" with big block engines circa 1976. Optional axle ratios (3.21, 3.23, etc) were to be preferred over standard ones (2.94, 2.76, etc).

Much as I love old cars (my daily driver do-it-all vehicle just a few years ago was more than 30-years old) the maintenance, parts and 1,001 details to keep in mind may as be a full-time job. I'd stick with OBD-II vehicles or later. TV's have never been better (which was untrue circa 1973-1987).

"Classic" is more a state of mind. A showroom pristine 1999 vehicle is rare. Especially with 134k miles on it.

To the OP: compression check, a gearing change, and do whatever else it needs (steering components, etc). No slop, anywhere.

.

[Gringo]

I think I would actually rather have a vehicle I can work on myself without a computer, if I can find one. Doesn't look promising, though.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Gringo

I think I would actually rather have a vehicle I can work on myself without a computer, if I can find one. Doesn't look promising, though.

That would be pre-1980. Before buying be sure you can locate factory-authorized wiring harnesses. Be best to re-wire the entire car to ensure reliability while towing. I'd rather run an old car in heads-up quarter-mile racing week after week than tow once cross-country. The computer bug-a-boo is overrated. Plenty of help online for us greybeards. Let us know in another thread.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by star kitty

Hi John.

Thanks for the idea...another guy had mentioned that as well. Unfortunately, I live in a very old house in Denver that does not have a modern garage. It's barely long enough for the Suburban and will not have the head room for a tall vehicle!

But I love the price....

IMO...stay away from an older GM AWD, the system can be very expensive to repair and they don't have a stellar,(no pun) reliability record.

4WD is a much better choice if you want it.

[bluvalley]

Hi, for what's it's worth. You should not be afraid of a six cylinder. I tow my 2003 22ft. CCD with a 3.0 BMW X5 and it's fantastic. My last tow vehicle was a Honda Ridgeline and it too was great. That being said, I have not towed in Colorado but my AS is heavier than yours and I had no problems whatsoever, and as an added benefit, as a daily driver the mileage is great.

Do your research and I'm sure you'll make the right decision.

Happy camping!

James

[waltero]

Another vote to consider a 6cyl. I tow a 73 AS 25', weighs 4,000 empty....My tow vehicle is an 05 Toyota Tacoma, 6speed manual Tramsmission....21 mpg when not towing, 12-15 towing....I tow lots thru the mountains in VA and WV although nothing in comparison to the Rockies...The weight you will be towing should allow you to look at some 6cylinder engines....