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funkill · 03-30-2009, 03:54 PM

For some reason, I've had a bad feeling about my purchase of the 2000 Yukon XL. No way to explain it - other than I got a *deal* which always makes the hair on my neck stand up. Dealer showed me the results of the records search (not Carfax, but similar) which didn't reflect anything of concern - even reflected it had been registered in the same county since original purchase. I took it to the local GM dealer for a more detailed inspection. They said it was a clean car. But there's a couple things that have me sick now...
1. The A/C immediately switches to heat if the thermostat control knob is turned towards warm. Took it back to the dealer and they found that the control panel needs replacing. They said they would cover it.
2. The cover for the sunroof got stuck back inside the roof pocket. It took some work, but I got it pulled back to position. It will, undoubtably, get stuck again.
3. The engine will sometimes stall when I come to a stop and always takes two tries to start when cold. It will turn over & over. I turn the ignition off and start again - it always catches/starts on the second attempt. A friend of mine with an older Tahoe said "oh, that's just the nature of those engines - it happens."
4. And the most concerning problem has also reared it's ugly head--- the ABS and Brake warning indicator lights come on (on the dash) together at intermittent times. I noticed it the other day when rolling into a parking space and then again today when driving around town. Earlier in the week I tried to stop quickly while traveling at about 50 mph and I thought the brakes acted weird - sort of shuttering. I did manage to stop, but the engine stalled afterward. Figured it was the ABS. Anyway, the warning indicators do not light again when turning the ignition back on. I'm wonondering if it is safe to even drive back to the dealer (about 60 miles).

Any suggestions?

This is all really concerning to me.....

Laura

3Ms75Argosy · 03-30-2009, 04:25 PM

I know Tahoes have issues with the fuel pumps... maybe yours is starting to go bad? If you feel "stuttering" all the time, the rotors could be warped... if it only happens with hard stops, then the abs is kicking in.
yikes!
Marc

C Johnson · 03-30-2009, 05:04 PM

My sister has a Tahoe. She hasn't had the problems you have had except for the brake issue. She eventually had to get vented brake rotors to cure the warping problem. A bit more $$ than regular rotors but the problem is gone. The abs light used to come on too but doesn't anymore since the rotors were replaced. They have never had a stalling problem with their vehicle and it has almost 300k on it.

I hope you get your other problems solved. Good luck !

wayner61 · 03-30-2009, 05:08 PM

Laura - For what it's worth, I would panic about any of those items. Any or all of those kinds of issues could easily affect even a well maintained 8 or 9 year old car. While I am not an expert on the Yukon XL, I own it's cousin, a 2001 Chevy Tahoe.

The temp control being a little flakey, switching imediately to heat sounds like a pretty easy fix. A bonus for you if the dealer that checked it covered it for you.

The hard start problem sounds like it could be the fuel pump. You didn't say what engine size, but I would ask the dealer if there was a TSB on it. It could also need some new plugs or something simple like that.

The intermittent ABS light could be a looming problem with the ABS but it shouldn't make it unsafe to drive. Cars didn't have ABS until fairly recently. My best guess on that is a loose or poor connection on a wheel speed sensor. If you are seeing the light come on, there might be a code stored that the dealer or another service center could see with a scan tool.

If you really and truly got a "good deal", which implies a fair price for a vehicle in the condition yours was in when you bought it, then I wouldn't be too woried about these kinds of things. Cars and trucks start requiring progressively more repair and maintenance as they get older. Even one that is in way above average condition will occasionally have something that it needs. Just keep thinking of the money you are saving because you didn't have to pay for a 2009

I bet you would still be ahead even if you had all of these items fixed a couple of times over.

Keep us posted though.

funkill · 03-30-2009, 05:36 PM

Thanks for easing my mind some Wayner. I was thinking that if both lights were on, it indicated there was a problem with the braking system as a whole. I purchased this truck because I was becoming more & more concerned with safety when pulling with my (undersized) Xterra. Now I'm getting worried about towing with this truck. I can't imagine towing and being fearful. Man, I gotta get comfortable with this. I'll see what the dealer can do to troubleshoot it when I take it back for the AC repair.

I did check the brake fluid level - good. And found a recall for something that looks the same (brake warning lights) for this vehicle in the northeast. Seems the salt environment causes corrosion on the sensor and it needs cleaning/replacement. Hummmm.

Seems corrosion is a problem in the South east too - maybe it's the same problem?

It's the 5.3L V8 engine and there's no notation of fuel pump being changed (though a new water pump). I say it was a deal because it was a good price - and they came down by over $3000 on price with little negotiations. I don't know, but they seemed more eager to sell than any others that I had looked at.... It all just went soooo smooth and quickly. I am not accustome to being on the right side of a deal.

Sigh of relief...

overlander63 · 03-30-2009, 05:56 PM

The stuttering while braking is the ABS activating. Under hard braking this is normal, it is the ABS solenoids actuating. There is a recall for ABS sensors having corrosion forming under them. This forces the wheel speed sensor away from the tone ring, which makes the ABS computer think the brakes on that wheel have locked. This will, however, release brake pressure to that wheel. The effect is the car won't stop.
When the ABS/brake warning light comes on like that, it could be a problem with the regular brake, the ABS, or merely the parking brake pedal not completely released.
The hard starting could be the fuel pump, a simple test will confirm if it is bad. The test consists of hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail, starting the engine, letting it run for a minute or so, and turning it off, and observing the gauge. If it drops rapidly, or takes a very long time to build pressure, the pump is probably bad. If it's bad, replacement is with the entire assembly, called a module, which consists of the pump, filter, sending unit, hoses, sensors, and a new gasket.
So, to make a long post short, it sounds like it is nothing a small bucket of money won't fix, much less than the dealership lowered the price to get you to buy it, so you're still money ahead.

flyfishsim · 03-30-2009, 06:00 PM

If it makes you feel any better, my 97 Suburban, 5.3L Vortec, has 361,000 miles. Down through the years I have replaced a transmission at 51,000 miles, 2 fuel pumps, an alternator, a starter, several oxygen sensors, and a few other things I'l probably think of after I post this reply. I feel all those things would probably need to be replaced on any well maintained vehicle that has 12 years and 361,000 miles. The body is in great shape and the engine (I hope I don't jinx myself) sounds and performs as good as a new one. This truck has been so good I can't part with it, it is becoming my fishing truck. So, as long as the little things don't bother you there's a good chance you will get a lot of miles out of your Yukon.

Ganaraska · 03-30-2009, 07:32 PM

The starting problem seems familiar. I have had the same trouble because of low fuel pressure.

Try turning on the key and waiting for 5 seconds before starting. If you listen real close you should hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds then stop. It's a whirring or humming sound from the fuel tank.

If the engine starts right up you may have a fuel pressure issue. On my Suburban I replaced the fuel pump but it did not fix the problem. So my fuel pressure must be leaking away someplace else. Have not had it tested yet so do not know exactly what the trouble is.

overlander63 · 03-30-2009, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganaraska

On my Suburban I replaced the fuel pump but it did not fix the problem. So my fuel pressure must be leaking away someplace else. Have not had it tested yet so do not know exactly what the trouble is.

It could be the fuel pressure regulator. This is generally a valve on the opposite end of the fuel rail from the fuel inlet, and has a vacuum line going to it. Check this by gently pinching closed the vinyl line that returns to the fuel tank, and start the engine. Run the engine for a few seconds, then shut it off. Wait a few minutes, and try restarting. If it starts right up, replace the regulator. It should be held on by 2-3 machine screws, usually with torx or allen heads.

ROBERT CROSS · 03-30-2009, 11:13 PM

KISS...replace the fuel filter first, cheap and needs to be done anyway. Then you will know when to change it out again.
Has the service engine light come on?

AC problem could be the heater control head (dash controls) or sticking air diverter doors in the ducting. Hard to diagnose online.

Corroded wheel speed sensors can cause abs activation under 15mph. (rolling into a parking space)

Pulsation/shudder on hi-speed stops usually caused by warped brake rotors.
If brake work is required, replace with PREMIUM rotors and pads, the extra!! $ are worth the peace of mind

The abs and the red brake warning light are not necessarily related.

The red warning light is connected to the parking brake and hydraulic system, the abs light to the anti-lock electronics.

Wheel speed sensors/wiring and or the EBCM, ($$ electronic brake control module $$) are the most common causes for the abs light. Worse case, the bearing/hub assembly may have to be replaced. Is there any roar sound from the front while driving that changes in volume when turning?
Louder on rt turns, points to the left bearing, left turns, right bearing.

Neither case is a deal breaker though, the dealer can scan the system,
and State law should require that all safety related items be taken care of prior to sale.

If there is no drastic change in brake pedal feel and the brake master cylinder is full the 60mi trip should be ok. If the red brake warning light is on and the master cylinder is low, have them tow it.

Good luck and keep us posted.

shermantic · 03-31-2009, 06:24 AM

As an avide Chevy Owner I feel you are only describing normal chevy problems that are very minor Ebay is the place to get the upgraded fuel pump to get the they to start easy! and the stalling at idle will go away with the new fuel pump! As far as the barakes go they all have some problems to some degree ckresto has upgraded master cylanders and they allow you to un hook the abs system if you want to to leave it intact and working! (I have a fleet of 27 full size chevy trucks for my bussness and we have seen most every thing!

Ganaraska · 03-31-2009, 08:53 AM

About that sick sinking feeling.... I get that any time I spend more than $200 on anything.

It goes away after a while.

funkill · 03-31-2009, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganaraska

About that sick sinking feeling.... I get that any time I spend more than $200 on anything.

It goes away after a while.

Maybe that's all it is ... hopefully it will go away before I have to use the Tahoe to tow Ophelia.

Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions! I'm taking it back for the a/c repair on Friday and will see if they'll troubleshoot the braking issue for me. I think I can make the fuel pump repair/replacement. Though I hoped not to need to make repairs in the first few weeks of ownership. I think that's what got me really concerned - all the sudden all these things start rearing.

ROBERT CROSS · 03-31-2009, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funkill

Maybe that's all it is ... hopefully it will go away before I have to use the Tahoe to tow Ophelia.

Towing an Airstream makes everything, "right with the World"

GOOD LUCK

Stream Safe

silverleeper · 03-31-2009, 10:05 AM

Here is a list of recall item's for your rig. 2000 GMC Yukon XL 1500 Recalls.

funkill · 03-31-2009, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverleeper

Here is a list of recall item's for your rig. 2000 GMC Yukon XL 1500 Recalls.

Thanks for that link.

Question(s): should I request that the recalls be performed? Can I have this done at any GMC/Chevy dealership? Is there any cost to me? I've never dealt with a recall issue before ....

Laura

overlander63 · 03-31-2009, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funkill

Thanks for that link.

Question(s): should I request that the recalls be performed? Can I have this done at any GMC/Chevy dealership? Is there any cost to me? I've never dealt with a recall issue before ....

Laura

When you go in, ask them to check for open recalls. It's all in GM's database, and you should know in a few minutes what needs to be done, and what has been done.

ROBERT CROSS · 03-31-2009, 10:49 AM

No cost for open recalls.

Have them print out "build sheet" as part of a VISS check. It will give you all the options on your TV. Good to have when at the parts store.
Most dealers will VISS when the vehicle is written-up for service, it will list all open recalls.

overlander63 · 03-31-2009, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Have them print out "build sheet" as part of a VISS check. It will give you all the options on your TV.

The build sheet for my Silverado lists the "amenity deletion" package...

That means I have vinyl seats, manual windows, no cruise control, floor mats instead of carpet, etc.

ROBERT CROSS · 03-31-2009, 07:33 PM

Terry,

Several years ago GM did offer several delete options. We opted out of the third seat in our 95 Burb and saved a grand. Not so much anymore, You want this, 'ya gotta order that.

"how can we save some money?" Ahh..no key in the pass door that'l do it.