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Old 04-06-2009, 12:24 PM   #21
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Any luck with your new GMC and the few problems you had?
My 1999 doesn't start up on the first try any more either. I turn the ignition on and off before I start up and it usually works for me. Other than that it's been a great truck.

Aaron
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Old 04-06-2009, 12:50 PM   #22
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Did you buy this from a dealer or from a private party? Did you buy it "as is" or with some sort of dealer warranty? A dealer warranty will usually be 30 to 90 days, probably shorter. Sometimes state law will give you some protections and federal law has statutory warranties for the emissions systems. Although the GM guys such as Bob Cross know a lot about GM vehicles and it sounds like the fuel pump is the cause of the starting problem, it could be related to emissions, so you may be protected depending on how many miles the vehicle has.

If you bought it "as is", aside from state or federal law (you'd have to check on that), there's no obligation for the seller to do anything. Sometimes a private party will help you out if a problem comes up right away. The fact a dealer looked it over may create some obligation especially if you paid them to look it over (it's called promissory estoppel where I live, don't know about Fla.; it means, roughly, you made the deal based in reliance of what you were told). Otherwise, the dealer may help you because they either (1) want to do the right thing (hard to believe, but it does happen), or (2) want you to come back for future maintenance and repairs, or (3) it's a recall item. The fact they said they'd cover the A/C control panel indicates some sort of obligation. If a private seller told you everything was fine, it started great, etc., promissory estoppel could apply to them, but it depends on state law.

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Old 04-06-2009, 08:35 PM   #23
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Many people have buyer's remorse, whether or not it's warranted. Any repairs you need will save many thousands off having bought a new TV, so relax.

Since you mentioned something similar to Carfax, Carfax has been said to report inaccurately. Similar reporting agencies may also be unreliable. Before we purchased our used TV, the seller allowed us to have the vehicle inspected right at our trusted mechanic's shop.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:08 AM   #24
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Yes, I bought it from a dealership - albeit one that is not close to my home! Thus, making it difficult to coordinate getting an independent inspection (well, especially with my immediate and somewhat *complicated* schedule). Because of my hesitation to purchase w/o this inspection, the dealer agreed to a 60 day warranty.

So, I just (45 minutes ago) returned from the dealership. They replaced the AC control panel at no charge. They did not find any "codes" that would detail the reason for the ABS and Brake warning lights. Of course, neither of these lights came on during the trip to/from the dealership today. Nor was the truck difficult to start. I will deal with the fuel pump on my own - as it won't be worth the time off work to travel the distance of the dealer. There have been several other items that are deficient - none that effect the truck performance but are irritating to me because I SHOULD have checked this stuff myself : electric mirrors do not work, C/D player doesn't play after 2 tracks, trashed speakers, the sunroof cover and the 7-pin connector not wired correctly.

Thanks for all your responses and I will try to chill and enjoy the truck! I might start a thread about difficulties I encountered trying to set my equalizing hitch and brake controller though ..... sigh.

Yes, I may be suffering some buyers remorse. But I am surprised since it was not a hefty purchase for me - not like buying an Airstream or something .....
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:24 AM   #25
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Some trucks, and I forget if GM's are among them, wipe the ABS fault memory when the key is turned off. Next time the lights come on, try to get to the dealer without turning the truck off.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:09 AM   #26
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Seems like you still have a lot of things needing repair and that's what the warranty you bargained for is about. Even if the codes for the brakes got erased or the problem is intermittent, this is a significant safety issue until you know otherwise.

Please don't blame yourself for not being perfect. No one can check everything and some things may still show up before the dealer warranty expires.

Gene
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:24 AM   #27
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Forgive me for not reading the thread carefully, but I wanted to jump in. The ABS light in my Titan popped on and I had some odd brake behavior. It turns out I had blown my rear axle seals, a pretty common problem with the Titan's weak Dana 44 differential. The gear oil ruined the sensors... which lead to a axle seal replacement job. Afterwards, I installed an aftermarket rear differential cover to increase fluid capacity and went to a synthetic gear oil. The rear axle seals are holding.

The ABS things can be a brake problem or a sensor problem (or both). As for buyer's remorse... you buy enough vehicles and you will eventually have your heart broken. Automobiles are complex mechanical devices. Even the best manufacturer's produce an occasional lemon... and even the worst produce an occasional great car. Fixing a car is like mowing the grass... it's just something you have to do. My philosophy is that I can pay a car payment every month or I can have an older vehicle and pay more for repairs. Heck, my wife ended up with an Infiniti given to her by her mother. She blew a head gasket. We dropped a fair amount of money into the repair, drove for 30 minutes and the gasket blew again. I didn't go after the mechanic, but I never spent another nickel at that shop. Sometimes, we get a lucky break... sometimes, we get a bad break. So it goes.
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:30 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by hampstead38 View Post
Forgive me for not reading the thread carefully, but I wanted to jump in. The ABS light in my Titan popped on and I had some odd brake behavior. It turns out I had blown my rear axle seals, a pretty common problem with the Titan's weak Dana 44 differential. The gear oil ruined the sensors... which lead to a axle seal replacement job. Afterwards, I installed an aftermarket rear differential cover to increase fluid capacity and went to a synthetic gear oil. The rear axle seals are holding.

The ABS things can be a brake problem or a sensor problem (or both). As for buyer's remorse... you buy enough vehicles and you will eventually have your heart broken. Automobiles are complex mechanical devices. Even the best manufacturer's produce an occasional lemon... and even the worst produce an occasional great car. Fixing a car is like mowing the grass... it's just something you have to do. My philosophy is that I can pay a car payment every month or I can have an older vehicle and pay more for repairs. Heck, my wife ended up with an Infiniti given to her by her mother. She blew a head gasket. We dropped a fair amount of money into the repair, drove for 30 minutes and the gasket blew again. I didn't go after the mechanic, but I never spent another nickel at that shop. Sometimes, we get a lucky break... sometimes, we get a bad break. So it goes.
AFTER I purchased the truck, I took it to my local GMC dealer and had the rear diff fluid changed and he performed a mechanical inspection of the truck. Would the problem you described - blown rear axle seals - have been visible/obvious with an inspection and maintenance performed by the this shop? (BTW: the local dealer is owned by my next door neighbor - and the mechanic did my truck inspection per the owner - if that much matters).

The indicators have not come on at all today... only thing I did since last posting was to tow my trailer 20+ miles to check out the rigging ....
Laura
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:36 PM   #29
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Would the problem you described - blown rear axle seals - have been visible/obvious with an inspection and maintenance performed by the this shop?
Yes. Especially if they remove the wheels and tires and check the brakes.
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:40 PM   #30
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Yes. Especially if they remove the wheels and tires and check the brakes.

Yay! He did remove the wheels and told me there was 60% life remaining on rear brakes.

So, I don't need to worry about blown axle seals?

Do I need to worry about towing 125 miles south tomorrow? Brake controller works - well, as good as a Voyager does anyway. I tried to buy a Prodigy but was told that it isn't much better. Should have done it anyway - the Voyager requires too much fidgeting with...
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkill View Post
..... and the 7-pin connector not wired correctly.
you mentioned the seven pin connector. I noticed the age of your unit being a '73.

The wiring code for the seven pin connector have changed since 1973. Unless someone has changed your seven pin wiring on your TV, it will be up to date. It'll be your trailer seven pin that needs updating.

Just a 'lil FYI

Maybe someone will have easy access to the correct codes. I can't find mine at the moment.

I had to repair a few things on my F250 when I bought it. (it was 5 yrs. old then) I'd say your doing pretty well.
Enjoy your Yukon !
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:41 PM   #32
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:57 PM   #33
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3. The engine will sometimes stall when I come to a stop and always takes two tries to start when cold. It will turn over & over. I turn the ignition off and start again - it always catches/starts on the second attempt. A friend of mine with an older Tahoe said "oh, that's just the nature of those engines - it happens."
Laura
The IAC (Idle Air Control) is often the culprit for stalling and should be an easy fix , they get "carboned" up and need a simple cleaning with throttle body cleaner. Some newer Yukon don't have a separate IAC control (instead the IAC is built into the Throttle body). In that case clean the Throttle body. Cleaning either is not a big job and can be done cheaply with regular tools.
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:31 PM   #34
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Buying a vehicle at a distance

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Yes, I bought it from a dealership - albeit one that is not close to my home! Thus, making it difficult to coordinate getting an independent inspection (well, especially with my immediate and somewhat *complicated* schedule).
For anyone else buying a used vehicle from a distance, this is what worked for us. Last June I found a truck that matched what we were looking for, but it was at a Subaru dealer 400 miles away. I went online and did a Google search on Ford dealers. There was a dealer about 5 miles away from the truck. Then I called the Ford dealer to tell them what I wanted to do, and the Subaru dealer to asked them to make arrangements to take the truck to the Ford dealer for an inspection. They did, the truck checked out, and when I made the trip a few days later to look at the truck in person I went to the Ford dealer first and picked up the report from the service manager. I paid for the inspection by credit card over the phone.

The inspection didn't turn up anything that was important enough to change the deal, but for about $200 I had the piece of mind that allowed me to go ahead with the purchase.
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:37 PM   #35
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This may or may not be helpful. The ABS light on my BMW used to come on intermittently, and the car would sometimes stall. Turned out there was nothing wrong with the brakes, rather the light came on anytime the car would lose power: even if it only lost power for a millisecond. Once the power issue was dealt with, the ABS light no longer came on without a reason.

One of my concerns with purchasing a used vehicle in Florida would be damage due to flooding during a hurricane or tropical storm. In addition to a Carfax or similar records check, I wouldn't hesitant to contact the prior owner in the future.

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