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Old 07-29-2014, 05:06 PM   #15
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I'm even more convinced I'm getting rid of mine after this thread. Just need to find some kid who wants my 20's for his 17's.

Also, to jump off what Carl said, in my current researching of replacement tires, in some of the more popular big brands, the price between 17/18/20 varies only by a few bucks. Where the prices really vary is in tire width and tire overall height, not rim height. At least this is the pricing I see reflected on discounttire and tirerack. Brands like Michelin, Goodyear and Firestone. If it's a 33 inch tire and 10 inches wide, the prices are all very close despite the rim size.

I think people thinking 20's cost more comes from the car scene, where people tend to buy performance tires. But that's just my theory.

I dunno if anyone else has noticed, but is it me, or are tires more expensive than they used to be?
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Old 07-29-2014, 05:55 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post

that seem a contradiction to what should be the pressures.. 75 front, more weight as in the big honking engine. and 60 in rear (non towing) as there is nothing in the bed but AIR..

that reminds me of the ford explorer tire issues,, the door said something like 30 lbs front and rear.. that is way to low for a heavy truck.. heck i run 49 lbs tire in my astro due the weight i carry..

wondering out loud..
Yeah. I think this is what they want when you're towing at max capacity - not daily driving. Here's the door jamb:



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Old 07-29-2014, 05:57 PM   #17
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Yes, door jamb labels are at GVWR.
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:33 PM   #18
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Yes, door jamb labels are at GVWR.
Yup.

We might be getting in to territory where Tireman or CapriRacer might want to chime in, but according to the inflation chart in the pic below, I could probably go with 60psi front and rear when towing (steer is 4440, drive is 4500 on the scales fully loaded for camping w/trailer and WD applied) with a lot of spare capacity. CAUTION: I'm not an expert - I could really have this wrong :-)


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Old 07-29-2014, 08:33 PM   #19
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Anyone else actually have these tires on their Chevy or GMC 2500?
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:13 AM   #20
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Have the Goodyears on my 2014 Chevy Duramax. No problems with 13000 miles and about half that towing a 27 foot Classic. Good ride and good wear so far.


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Old 08-10-2014, 10:24 PM   #21
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Going with 19.5" Truck Wheels & Tires???

I used to have a slide-in camper that I used with my 2001 Dodge 2500HD Cummins. After having two LT truck tires blow on me (which is a lot of fun at highway speed with a camper on your back), I started reading in some of the truck camper forums about tires. Almost universally, they claimed that LT tires were inadequate for camper use, especially on SRW pickups. Their recommendation was going with a true truck tire on 19.5 rims, and most made reference to a company called Rickson Wheel Manufacturing (Rickson Wheel Manufacturing) which made custom steel 19.5 rims to fit regular p/u trucks. You could also get truck tires through them, and they would do match mounting and balancing. I did quite a bit of research, and all references were positive. I ended up selling the camper ($$$ - daughter's wedding) and thought no more about it. Now that I have a new AS 27FB Classic, I'm revisiting the issue as an upgrade for my TV. Any info or thoughts out there?
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:43 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
.......We might be getting in to territory where Tireman or CapriRacer might want to chime in, but according to the inflation chart in the pic below, I could probably go with 60psi front and rear when towing (steer is 4440, drive is 4500 on the scales fully loaded for camping w/trailer and WD applied) with a lot of spare capacity. CAUTION: I'm not an expert - I could really have this wrong :-)

[Attachment deleted]
One of the lessons from the Ford/Firestone situation a few years ago was that tire size/inflation pressure specifications should result in a tire with more load carrying capacity than the GAWR - by some factor. I think that factor is 15%.

So, No!, I don't think you should be running pressures according to the chart.

Oh, and the idea that you can tell if a vehicle manufacturer's inflation pressure specification is low by just looikng at the value - like 30 psi - is totally booooooogus!

It's the combination of SIZE and inflation pressure. A small tire with high inflation pressure is no more safe than a larger tire with a low inflation pressure!
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