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Old 01-16-2020, 02:45 PM   #41
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Apparently this "upside down" connector complaint has been around for a while

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...nnector-7-pin/
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Old 01-16-2020, 03:34 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYC2Vette View Post
Apparently this "upside down" connector complaint has been around for a while

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...nnector-7-pin/
Everyone makes mistakes, but unfortunately some refuse to correct them because they are either insecure or can't really understand what the problem is. GM should have solved this years ago. The thread above is short, but makes it clear the GM receptacle cannot be easily turned over so that it works right and dealers won't fix it. GM must be oblivious. What used to be, admittedly a very long time ago, the best mass produced vehicle manufacturer in the world seems to be unable to solve its own mistakes for a long time.

It looks like it on the owner to fix it if it can be fixed by turning over the plug. Anything can be fixed with time and money. It would be best to avoid buying these vehicles if you want to tow anything. This definitely is a safety issue and NTSB can be contacted to see if they will do anything.

So, does the Airstream part fit into the GM part tightly, or is the whole problem caused by an upside-down GM plug?
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Old 01-17-2020, 03:14 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Seems like Chevies are the primary problem, so they may have used improperly sized receptacles, poorly made ones with sloppy tolerances or bought or designed bad electronics.
Your steps you listed are perfect for the general troubleshooting scenario we have. However, I'm not sure you read through this entire thread. In this case, it's not GM, but AS who I suspect isn't using the properly sized part. As more and more vehicle manufacturers actually start using parts more aligned to the SAE J560 spec (apparently most have used some not quite in tolerance in the past). We're going to see issues. I found through my own non-scientific study of 5 trailer plugs that all but the AS one fit nice and tight and had no issues staying in the truck receptacle.

GM did a very poor job for a few years and turned the plug the wrong way, but that seems to have been fixed some time ago. My 2015 was fine, and from an orientation perspective the 2020 is fine.
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Old 01-17-2020, 03:21 AM   #44
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So, does the Airstream part fit into the GM part tightly, or is the whole problem caused by an upside-down GM plug?
The GM part seems to align with the SAE J560 spec (at least now). The AS plug is not tight and in my testing with 5 other plugs, the issue seems to be the AS plug, not the GM part.

The orientation of the GM receptacle is now correct, not sure when or for how long they didn't put them the proper direction however.

I will also say that my issue as of the moment isn't caused by either. I've changed out the plug on the AS because it's not a tight fit, but the real issue is the truck. The wheel sensor is bad. On all new trucks, any error reported on the Canbus that could pose a safety danger or hazard tells the trailering electronics not to send the power to the trailer brakes and alert the driver that there is a problem with the trailer brakes.

I find the messaging stupid because that was a huge red herring. The idea from what I can gather is that the hope is you see the trailer brake problem and don't hook up your trailer...(that makes sense to me, but it's still poor messaging).
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Old 01-17-2020, 03:35 AM   #45
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To further emphasize that this is probably an Airstream cord problem, I have had a ProPride from the beginning and needed a short extension cord to connect the 7-way properly. The Airstream cord is plugged in to the extension cord and wrapped with silicone tape for a secure and waterproof connection. The extension cord plugs in to my truck and that connector has worked fine on first my 2012 GM truck and now my 2017. No issues.

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Old 01-17-2020, 08:46 AM   #46
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For those that are replacing their umbilical cord I suggest you go one step further and install a 7 way Junction box under the trailer. I installed it between the A-frame and the spare tire. This will help you in the future if the umbilical cord get damaged on the road. If damage occurs a complete sealed umbilical cord can be installed in a matter of minutes. The original umbilical cord wires terminated between the front skins of the trailer.... The connections are labeled in the box.
I added this when I was doing some other work on the trailer.


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Old 01-18-2020, 11:00 AM   #47
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I did read the whole thread and it is pretty confusing. Glad you seem to have gotten it solved.

And the junction box is a good idea, better than a splice with a sealed sleeve. Several years ago I had the hitch head develop two small cracks on the road, found a welder and he fixed that, but we both forgot to plug in the umbilical again. After dragging it along I-70 for a while, I noticed something was wrong, stopped, looked, kicked myself several times and looked for an RV repair place. Half the plug had been worn down by the road by then. They replaced the plug and spliced it. I am hardly the only person to do that and a junction box would have made replacement a lot easier.
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:38 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrisett View Post
What I 'learned' from one post on a GM forum from a former engineer is that while folks were trying to meet the SAE J560 spec (which covers dimensions and wiring for the 7 pin connectors), few actually met it. He claimed he was retired but when he was doing actual testing, most manufacturers weren't within tolerances... one things I learned from my years in electronics and tech support is that even if somebody is within tolerances but on the outside edges put two things together on opposite edges and you won't always get something that worked (especially true in circuit timing)... So, my guess is manufacturers are now better meeting the SAE J560 spec.

The Pollak connector I bought (was only $8), 'snaps' into place on the new GM receptacles, whereas the old rubber AS plug you had to mash into it and hope the latch stayed connected with the raised bump designed to hold it.

But I think we're really going to start seeing a lot more of this type of stuff if my (and a few others) experience are any indication. I'm just glad I finally narrowed everything down. (FYI... for the record, my truck is still in the shop waiting for parts. The problem with buying first year is there are no parts in the system for them, every time they have gotten a part they had to get it shipped from the assembly line!).
Hi wbrisett,
I beleive you are talking about this post of mine:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ml#post2139288

My comments in that thread definitely apply to the 2014-2018 1500 (2019 in some cases, as they made the new and old style 1500s simultaneously for a year) and 2015-2019 2500/3500HD Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups and I think several years of the midsize Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon, too. I believe the "new style" Silverado/Sierra 2019 1500s and 2020 2500/3500HDs use a different trailer receptacle, with at least the orientation corrected. Otherwise, I know nothing about the new connector GM is using.

I still believe Airstream should change to the Pollak connector on their umbilical cord as last I knew they still were not using an SAE J2863 compatible connector - THE industry standard! (Note: you mentioned SAE J560 in your messages, but that is not the correct specification as SAE J560 is for a different 7-way connector that is used on Semi Trucks, not light duty pickups.)
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:56 AM   #49
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I did read the whole thread and it is pretty confusing. Glad you seem to have gotten it solved.
The whole thing is confusing. Partly because the trailer not connected message is a red herring. I spent two days chasing that issue only to finally realize there was absolutely nothing wrong with the Airstream wiring. Although the connector is still not the best.

Getting it solved is still out. The truck is still awaiting parts from GM. I have no idea if that will finally solve my issue, but I'm hoping it will.
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:57 AM   #50
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Hi wbrisett,
I beleive you are talking about this post of mine:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ml#post2139288
Yes! I couldn't recall where I read that informational thread, but that's it! I spent lots of time trying to see what I could about this issue and now know more about trailer connectors and wiring than I wanted to.
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:11 AM   #51
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Hi wbrisett,
I beleive you are talking about this post of mine:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ml#post2139288


[/I]

Joe,

I read that thread too and installed the metal housing version of 12-706 it's Pollak 12-702 on mine several years ago. NO ISSUES TO REPORT, it's working just fine.

Last year I ran into a stash of the metal plug version and bought a handful plus, four already went to buddies last October for their future use. I carry a spare, mostly for a campsite , ugh your plug ain't looking too good moment for a fellow camper.

This is a task that tool handy folks could consider even carrying a spare.

Good thread and that red herring is still waiting for the final proof of function moment.

Gary
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Old 01-19-2020, 10:01 AM   #52
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As I mentioned, I had developed this same issue...was originally told it was a "pin in the receptacle had been pushed back" in the AS pigtail connector...so I messed with it with needle nose pliers and also sprayed it with electrical lubricant...that wasn't the issue of course...it was coming loose from the F250 trailer male receiver, due to loose fit and the spring cover wasn't holding it in. AS told me the AS plug was defective when i visited in October and replaced it for free. Said it was a "known problem". Up until that time I just wrapped the plug with Duct Tape each time I hooked up, and that kept the plug from coming disconnected...new one they installed, is working great so far, but I still wonder from time to time if I should still wrap with Duct Tape as a precaussion....hated that feeling when on the highway and the "trailer disconnected" warning light comes on.

Great invention that Duct Tape...there's always something you can use it for...should change the name to "AS Tape", perhaps!
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:40 PM   #53
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The really frightening time for the brake controller to indicate no brake connection is on a long downhill run.

Like the downgrade from Tejon (sic) ranch at the summit on the I-5 northbound in California a couple years ago.

That is one of those times when the “pucker factor” hits about 9.5 out of 10, as you downshift gingerly, pump brakes, and count your lucky stars that you have seriously good anti-sway control from the ProPride system.

A few minutes safely on the shoulder to jam the umbilical more tightly back into the connector and to unclench all the clenched muscles was a great relief.
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:55 AM   #54
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[/QUOTE]


I have a 2020 GMC HD Denali. I receive an error message when connecting the trailer that states electric brakes not detected. There’s also a light error. In addition, if I leave the umbilical card plugged in with engine shut off, there is a continuous slow flash on some of the trailer lights.

Interested to see how your visit to the dealer goes...[/QUOTE]

So just to muddy the waters further I was reading in an SAE trailer connector specification a paragraph that discusses the newer TV diagnostics/electronics and LED trailer lights. It turns out that there are low current diagnostics that run with the ignition off that may result in trailer LED glowing faintly or flashing, there is also the potential for trailer LED causing error codes. The only solution is apparently to only use LED that have a resistor in parallel with each LED (as apparently many or some do). I wonder if the AS LED have the resistor?
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Old 01-20-2020, 02:17 PM   #55
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So just to muddy the waters further I was reading in an SAE trailer connector specification a paragraph that discusses the newer TV diagnostics/electronics and LED trailer lights. It turns out that there are low current diagnostics that run with the ignition off that may result in trailer LED glowing faintly or flashing, there is also the potential for trailer LED causing error codes. The only solution is apparently to only use LED that have a resistor in parallel with each LED (as apparently many or some do). I wonder if the AS LED have the resistor?
Today I took the loaner 2020 1500 Silverado to where I store my 2018 27 FT Flying Cloud AS, I found it did indeed recognize the trailer. I did go ahead and replace the 7-pin connector and afterwards everything still checked out (except now it's much firmer in the connector).

So I think recent AS units do indeed have a resistor because they do check out.
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Old 01-21-2020, 06:33 PM   #56
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Wbrisett, it sounds like you did not see the periodic / faint flashing of the led turn signals. By Classic is at dealer for warranty work but I will check the resistor on the led lights when it returns.
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Old 01-22-2020, 02:03 AM   #57
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Wbrisett, it sounds like you did not see the periodic / faint flashing of the led turn signals.
I did not. Everything seemed to check out. I ran the light test and all was well. Looked at the LEDs for a while and saw nothing. So... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Old 11-03-2020, 03:20 PM   #58
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more AS 7 way issues..2020 silverado 2500 HD

SOOOO,,I have a similar issue: I have a 2020 Silverado LT w/Duramax engine
2500HD.

While towing my 2019, 27" FC FBQ to California from MN last month
I lost my trailer running lights,trailer brakes and had a constant driver side tail light remain on the AS and my truck indicated that my left turn signal was out.
When I would turn a sharp corner the running lights would come on.

I "jiggled" the 7 way connection on my rear bumper and the running lights came back on but no brakes or left turn signal.

I drove it the remainder of the trip, less than 200 miles that way.

I arrived at my campground and promptly forgot about it and drank lots of beers.

after a few weeks in camp I got a "premium" spot and attempted to relocate the AS over to the other site a couple of hundered ft away.

after hooking up the TV, I grabbed the trailer umbilical and the darn thing sizzled in my hand! I did NOT want to plug it into my new truck like that so I decided to press on. I was unable to go anywhere after I put the truck in gear,, I grabbed the umbilical again and BAM! the brakes on the Airstream released!! good thing my truck brakes were set.

I had the 2020 Chevy serviced this past weekend at the dealer and mentioned this to the tech and showed him the "loose" socket on the bumper.
He said the sockets are all that way as there are only a couple little plastic tabs that hold it in place. He DID verify the integrity of the wiring with a tester they have just for that and the trucks wiring is OK.

The Airstream it seems is the culprit,,I believe the factory installed 7 way connector on the umbilical is RUBBISH, what is the P/N of that Pollack connector I need to get?? 12-706 ???
the chaffing on the dang propane tank cover cut out doesnt do well for the umbilical issue either,,its just a poor AS design

More to come as I repair it,,,I just hope my AS brakes havent been energized this whole month just sitting there

PS I want to do the junction box add on too,,great idea

PSS My trailer lights (just the back ones) flash every 10 seconds or so when connected to TV and shutdown for the day
this same thing happens on my 2019 enclosed car hauler which is all LED lights as well,,so the TV is causing the lights to flash
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Old 11-04-2020, 02:10 AM   #59
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The Airstream it seems is the culprit,,I believe the factory installed 7 way connector on the umbilical is RUBBISH, what is the P/N of that Pollack connector I need to get?? 12-706 ???
the chaffing on the dang propane tank cover cut out doesnt do well for the umbilical issue either,,its just a poor AS design
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK12706.html

That's the one I replaced mine with and haven't had any issues since.
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Old 11-04-2020, 09:09 AM   #60
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https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK12706.html

That's the one I replaced mine with and haven't had any issues since.
Awesome Thanks!
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