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Old 08-15-2006, 03:03 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pick
I just ran a spreadsheet, and came up with a surprising result.
Assumptions: 12,000 miles per year. 12 mpg Gasser, 18 mpg Diesel.
At $3 per gallon for gas, the break even cost per mile, (fuel only) is $4.50 per gallon diesel!!!! So, I guess if diesel is .25 higher than gas, it's not such a big deal after all.

At $3 for both fuels, you save $1000 a year in fuel costs.

At $3.25 for diesel savings drop to $833 per year.
Pick, now run a spread sheet on replacement parts for a gasser vs diesel.

Ken
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:10 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
I have seen this mentioned before. My door sticker only gives one psi rating for the tires, I assume this is for towing; 55psi front, I think 80 psi rear. What pressure should I trying running to improve the ride when empty but still not damage the tires?
This is confusing to me as I was alway under the impression that under-inflated tires are not a good thing...

Thanx, Bill
hi billtex....

attached is my door sticker 2005 psd sd 4x4. 75psi ft/rr....

your door sticker has different #s for front and rear? what truck/year?

manual says to run tires at this level as printed on pillar...not tire makers max...of course this is a legalesse issue...

agree completely with that underinflation is the root of all tire evils...

and usually i run very close to 75 and when fully loaded and towing...closer to 80psi...the max side wall for the bf goodrich on the truck.

most people really are better off just running the printed pressures on the tv and max cold on trailer tires....that is the safest and best advice.

but....
there are many tweakers here....
and for tv tires there are tables, produced by the tire makers...
that show pressures for any given load up up to the max....

nick' and others have posted or linked these tables...search around.

basically they show safe pressures as the load on tires varies...
and it seems reasonably safe to follow these tables...
remembering in cold weather or when loads increase or conditions vary.....
pressures should be increased.

i mention this for goin camping because his trailer is pretty light and has a lower tongue weight....relative to a 3/4 ton truck capacity....

as for 4/4 systems....tires of different sizes are a problem.
as in diameter or circumference....
not different pressures...
and even then most 4x4 systems allow for 2-4% differences in tire sizes...
audi for example allows for 3% on the same axle....
when a unused spare is in service with a 3 other well worn tires...
this difference approaches 3%...
if the worn tires aren't past the last wear bar.

cheers
2air'
click to enlarge pictures and read the fine print...
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:20 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeHarbor

Some of my ex-coworkers murdered it in Jacksonville. They spun it around in the rain on I-10 and collided with a guard rail and a street light pole.
It's not much like "Mother, Jugs, and Speed," but it's not that much different either. Lamar
now see safeharbor.....

i knew there was a reason for all the warnings about ambulance use...
on the door sticker,
in the owners manual,
and on the price/window sticker...

i kept asking them why all the warnings....
i wasn't gonna make an ambulance
just because my superduty is white!

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:34 PM   #74
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Risk of Fuel Expulsion? Why would you kick the fuel out of school for being in an ambulance?
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:38 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by swebster
Risk of Fuel Expulsion? Why would you kick the fuel out of school for being in an ambulance?
spoken like someone who has seen the inside of a principal's office.

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:52 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
That's what the door sticker says! Unlike all the 1/2 tons I have owned-they were same pressure front/back.

Can anyone answer this?

Anyway, you would not be in 4wd on dry pavement...
I have never towed anywhere that 4wd was needed. As this is our "adventure vehicle" it does get quite a bit of use in ski season also!
Responded before reading previous posts. Pretend you don't see this.
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Old 08-15-2006, 04:55 PM   #77
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Quote:
spoken like someone who has seen the inside of a principal's office.
I have no knowledge of said events or any circumstances leading up to said events
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Old 08-15-2006, 04:59 PM   #78
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Ironically, the only warnings on the ambulance prep package are about the airbags, sticking your fingers in the fan, and jump starting the truck.

I might add that the reason diesels have two batteries is because if you run one out of fuel, it won't recrank later on one.

And, no, that one did not happen to me!

Lamar

PS - I think they mean "leaks."
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:11 PM   #79
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Diesel for sure

The original diesel engine was designed to run on peanut oil and the only problem with running any diesel on veggie oil is viscosity - which is why veggie oil is a better alternative - but you need to heat it slightly to use it - so the beggie converter kits add a tank and a heating unit - then you start the engine on diesel and switch to veg after the engine heats up. You can do this with almost any diesel - try these two sites for information about kits - greasel.com and greasecar.com

plus the engines produce no pollution - and you smell like popcorn going down the road.
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:23 PM   #80
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Interestingly, the door sticker on my '03 Dodge diesel says 55 psi front, 80 psi rear.

Lamar
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:33 PM   #81
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Lamar, that's in acordance with the Rubber Manufacturers' load inflation tables. Your figures are the maximum pressures for use when the truck is fully loaded to its maximum permitted weight. With my Dodge Ram 2500 diesel, I run 50 psi all round when empty, and adjust the rear pressures between 50 and 80, according to the load as indicated in the tables. As the load, paricularly when towing, is on the rear axle, the front pressures vary little. I work on the basis that the guys that design them know a thing or to about how to use them.
Nick.
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Old 08-15-2006, 07:25 PM   #82
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Tire Pressure

I agree with Nick. I normally run my rear duals at 50 to 55 psi - which is substantially below the pressure shown on the door sticker - and far over that required for my rear axle load. As for the front tires my scale weight is awfully close to the maximum load - with both my wife and I on board - but I still take 5 psi off. The ride quality improves substantially at these reduced pressures. I'm presently approaching the 50,000 mile mark - with excellent wear patterns all around. Goodyear's only comment is that you should not go below 45 psi. My only comment, with respect to running the rear duals at maximum pressure, is that if I had a blowout the remaining tire would handle the load. That's strictly a "dually" dream!!!
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Old 08-15-2006, 07:35 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeHarbor
On the other hand, we put 300K on an International Navstar and the only problem I ever saw with it was a failed relay on the firewall. I was impressed that it was only $20. That truck got 11 mpg just like the Fords, and it kept going and going.
Lamar
Navistar T444E is the Ford 7.3 PSD, if no one noticed.
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Old 08-15-2006, 07:37 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
I have seen this mentioned before. My door sticker only gives one psi rating for the tires, I assume this is for towing; 55psi front, I think 80 psi rear.
What pressure should I trying running to improve the ride when empty but still not damage the tires?
This is confusing to me as I was alway under the impression that under-inflated tires are not a good thing...

Thanx, Bill
I run 55 front and rear when MT, which is most of the time. If you run 80 psi when MT, it will eventually wear the center of the tread out.
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