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Old 08-15-2006, 09:16 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coastalview
You will have to do a lot of show and tell at the Nor-Cal rally at Lake San Antonio
No one will even notice it. The Vintage rigs get all the action.
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Old 08-15-2006, 10:40 AM   #62
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cost of diesel option

We bought a 2006 chev 3500 Express van w/ Duramax in Feb. Invoice $ for the diesel option was only $4800, not the "over $7000" previously bandied about. I also got all the creature comforts and heavy duty tow package for way less than a PU!! Granted, not everyone wants to drive around in a 22' van(extended wheel base also), but we need it in our work. We have put 10K miles on it since then, towing our 22' CCD around with 3000# of pottery and photography in the back, averaging 15+ mpg and about 20-22 MT. I got 8-12 in my Dodge PU gasser and cargo trailer. Towing with the van MT, about 16+ mpg. Very happy with the D-max, just wish it was coupled to the Allison tranny, not an option with the Express van series.
I reckon it's just a matter of need and "form follows function".
Cheers, Jeff
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Old 08-15-2006, 10:54 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goin camping
No one will even notice it. The Vintage rigs get all the action.
Not me
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Old 08-15-2006, 12:29 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goin camping
No one will even notice it.
new truck AND new airstream? oh, oh people will notice.

and want to lookie too!

cheers

2air'

on a related note...

didn't you ask about tv stiffness and your trailer?

i think this issue is overstated...

when applied to newer trailers...

and 3/4 ton trucks...

sure your spring rate is 10,000lb...

but the truck can way 8000lbs+ easily when loaded.

properly adjusted, truck tire pressure,

is the easiest way to soften the ride...

and proper spring bar selection ...if you use them...

really that's a simple thing...match spring bars to tongue weight...

not heavier...but not lighter either.

with the dual cam the bars need some flex for the antisway function...

so light bars give you that but may not provide proper w/d function...

gotta go to the scales for this info...

hensley now has lighter bars at 750 to go along with the 1000 and 1400...

and if you still feel the truck is harsh riding....
consider the mor-ryde rear modification...
this does smooth out any harsh vibes....
i don't have it yet but will by spring....
i think...

also i would not remove the antisway rear truck bar...
it helps alot with the truck ride and handling in corners...

the camper package is sort of a rip off...on a 4x4 with the f/x package...

once you add 2 of the packages the 'computer' will have selected the highest spring rating...which is 10,000. so adding the camper package then only adds the rear sway bar and the certificate for 'center point'...and helper spring which is normally not in play anyway....

the helper spring could be removed but fooling with the stock suspension set up...unless done professionally could be risky....

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-15-2006, 12:35 PM   #65
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Claybags, the reason the Duramax option was only $4800 in your van, was because it is the LLY engine option, with a 4L80E or 4L85E Hydramatic transmission. The pickup trucks get the LBZ engine option with the Allison transmission, which commands a higher price.
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Old 08-15-2006, 01:23 PM   #66
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Hi, Scott,

I'd never say that our trucks got the best service in the world, but they were on a 5,000/10,000 miles service interval, if I remember right. The clogged fuel filter was from one bad tank of diesel obtained in Yulee, FL. The radiator hose was due for change-out at the next service (the mechanic later claimed). The ECM failures were traced to a wiring harness problem around the heavy-duty alternator and Ford in Valdosta, GA fixed it.

On the other hand, we put 300K on an International Navstar and the only problem I ever saw with it was a failed relay on the firewall. I was impressed that it was only $20. That truck got 11 mpg just like the Fords, and it kept going and going.

Some of my ex-coworkers murdered it in Jacksonville. They spun it around in the rain on I-10 and collided with a guard rail and a street light pole.

Do you know why ambulances have tandem rear wheels? It's so they can keep going with one flat.

It's not much like "Mother, Jugs, and Speed," but it's not that much different either.

Lamar
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Old 08-15-2006, 02:17 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman

properly adjusted, truck tire pressure,

is the easiest way to soften the ride...
I have seen this mentioned before. My door sticker only gives one psi rating for the tires, I assume this is for towing; 55psi front, I think 80 psi rear.
What pressure should I trying running to improve the ride when empty but still not damage the tires?
This is confusing to me as I was alway under the impression that under-inflated tires are not a good thing...

Thanx, Bill
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Old 08-15-2006, 02:27 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
I have seen this mentioned before. My door sticker only gives one psi rating for the tires, I assume this is for towing; 55psi front, I think 80 psi rear.
What pressure should I trying running to improve the ride when empty but still not damage the tires?
This is confusing to me as I was alway under the impression that under-inflated tires are not a good thing...

Thanx, Bill
How can you run a 4X4 with different tire pressures front to back? Low pressure fronts would change the tire hieght. Bad for 4X4 systems.
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Old 08-15-2006, 02:43 PM   #69
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LLY and LB7

Pick, you're absolutely correct. So far the LLY puts out enough to satisfy my needs. As to the 4L80E, well, time will tell if it's robust enough for the long haul. The repair costs of the 4L80E are quite a bit less than the Alli though, and replacement is approx 1/2. But... like I said, for me it was the solution to my particular problem in a not so perfect world.
cheers, Jeff
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Old 08-15-2006, 02:53 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goin camping
How can you run a 4X4 with different tire pressures front to back? Low pressure fronts would change the tire hieght. Bad for 4X4 systems.
That's what the door sticker says! Unlike all the 1/2 tons I have owned-they were same pressure front/back.

Can anyone answer this?

Anyway, you would not be in 4wd on dry pavement...
I have never towed anywhere that 4wd was needed. As this is our "adventure vehicle" it does get quite a bit of use in ski season also!
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:03 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pick
I just ran a spreadsheet, and came up with a surprising result.
Assumptions: 12,000 miles per year. 12 mpg Gasser, 18 mpg Diesel.
At $3 per gallon for gas, the break even cost per mile, (fuel only) is $4.50 per gallon diesel!!!! So, I guess if diesel is .25 higher than gas, it's not such a big deal after all.

At $3 for both fuels, you save $1000 a year in fuel costs.

At $3.25 for diesel savings drop to $833 per year.
Pick, now run a spread sheet on replacement parts for a gasser vs diesel.

Ken
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:10 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
I have seen this mentioned before. My door sticker only gives one psi rating for the tires, I assume this is for towing; 55psi front, I think 80 psi rear. What pressure should I trying running to improve the ride when empty but still not damage the tires?
This is confusing to me as I was alway under the impression that under-inflated tires are not a good thing...

Thanx, Bill
hi billtex....

attached is my door sticker 2005 psd sd 4x4. 75psi ft/rr....

your door sticker has different #s for front and rear? what truck/year?

manual says to run tires at this level as printed on pillar...not tire makers max...of course this is a legalesse issue...

agree completely with that underinflation is the root of all tire evils...

and usually i run very close to 75 and when fully loaded and towing...closer to 80psi...the max side wall for the bf goodrich on the truck.

most people really are better off just running the printed pressures on the tv and max cold on trailer tires....that is the safest and best advice.

but....
there are many tweakers here....
and for tv tires there are tables, produced by the tire makers...
that show pressures for any given load up up to the max....

nick' and others have posted or linked these tables...search around.

basically they show safe pressures as the load on tires varies...
and it seems reasonably safe to follow these tables...
remembering in cold weather or when loads increase or conditions vary.....
pressures should be increased.

i mention this for goin camping because his trailer is pretty light and has a lower tongue weight....relative to a 3/4 ton truck capacity....

as for 4/4 systems....tires of different sizes are a problem.
as in diameter or circumference....
not different pressures...
and even then most 4x4 systems allow for 2-4% differences in tire sizes...
audi for example allows for 3% on the same axle....
when a unused spare is in service with a 3 other well worn tires...
this difference approaches 3%...
if the worn tires aren't past the last wear bar.

cheers
2air'
click to enlarge pictures and read the fine print...
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:20 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeHarbor

Some of my ex-coworkers murdered it in Jacksonville. They spun it around in the rain on I-10 and collided with a guard rail and a street light pole.
It's not much like "Mother, Jugs, and Speed," but it's not that much different either. Lamar
now see safeharbor.....

i knew there was a reason for all the warnings about ambulance use...
on the door sticker,
in the owners manual,
and on the price/window sticker...

i kept asking them why all the warnings....
i wasn't gonna make an ambulance
just because my superduty is white!

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:34 PM   #74
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Risk of Fuel Expulsion? Why would you kick the fuel out of school for being in an ambulance?
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:38 PM   #75
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Risk of Fuel Expulsion? Why would you kick the fuel out of school for being in an ambulance?
spoken like someone who has seen the inside of a principal's office.

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-15-2006, 03:52 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
That's what the door sticker says! Unlike all the 1/2 tons I have owned-they were same pressure front/back.

Can anyone answer this?

Anyway, you would not be in 4wd on dry pavement...
I have never towed anywhere that 4wd was needed. As this is our "adventure vehicle" it does get quite a bit of use in ski season also!
Responded before reading previous posts. Pretend you don't see this.
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Old 08-15-2006, 04:55 PM   #77
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Quote:
spoken like someone who has seen the inside of a principal's office.
I have no knowledge of said events or any circumstances leading up to said events
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Old 08-15-2006, 04:59 PM   #78
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Ironically, the only warnings on the ambulance prep package are about the airbags, sticking your fingers in the fan, and jump starting the truck.

I might add that the reason diesels have two batteries is because if you run one out of fuel, it won't recrank later on one.

And, no, that one did not happen to me!

Lamar

PS - I think they mean "leaks."
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:11 PM   #79
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Diesel for sure

The original diesel engine was designed to run on peanut oil and the only problem with running any diesel on veggie oil is viscosity - which is why veggie oil is a better alternative - but you need to heat it slightly to use it - so the beggie converter kits add a tank and a heating unit - then you start the engine on diesel and switch to veg after the engine heats up. You can do this with almost any diesel - try these two sites for information about kits - greasel.com and greasecar.com

plus the engines produce no pollution - and you smell like popcorn going down the road.
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:23 PM   #80
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Interestingly, the door sticker on my '03 Dodge diesel says 55 psi front, 80 psi rear.

Lamar
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