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mojo · 05-17-2013, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RamblinManGa

Hi from AZ. . . At the risk of beating a dead horse, I too love my ecoboost '11 F150. My truck did that 'shudder & lose power thing' one time in a driving rainstorm on an Alabama interstate and never again. (course I haven't been back to Ala either

). Mentioned it to service advisor at oil change visit & he claimed no code in my computer . . .so.? Since it hasn't happened again in 24k miles, I'm still happy with my truck. I think the longevity question remains for all of us. Regards,Craig

I had to INSIST that the dealer install the CAC deflector on my truck, regardless of no codes or not being able to replicate the shudder in a rainstorm. Just drove through solid day of rain in Texas again and no problems.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-17-2013, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojo

I had to INSIST that the dealer install the CAC deflector on my truck, regardless of no codes or not being able to replicate the shudder in a rainstorm. Just drove through solid day of rain in Texas again and no problems.

Hi, good for you making the dealer do the TSB on your truck. When I was working at a Ford dealer we found TSBs and recalls that were area specific; In other words a car in Michigan could have a vent line freeze and effect drivability. The same car in California would never have this problem. So only cars registered in cold parts of the country would get the notice, and repair.

Nightwatch · 05-18-2013, 09:02 AM

My 2012 F-150 Super Crew EB Lariat with 6.5' bed an HD tow package is still going perfectly with zero stutter problems after 20k miles. Absolutely love this truck.

I do have one question though. I live in Colorado and I find that going down hill after going over a pass, I find that I experience some shuttering while braking. Not engine related, but I feel it in the front wheels and brake pedal. I can only assume this is due to the brakes heating up, but this happens even when not towing so I'm wondering if I have brake issues? I also notice that the brakes always squeak when the truck has been sitting outside for a day for the first minute or so of driving. Likely brake dust - but why every time and only after a day?

Thoughts?

ROBERT CROSS · 05-18-2013, 11:07 AM

Shudder felt in the steering wheel and brake pedal is most likely caused by warped and or badly rusted front brake rotors. Warping may have been caused by overheating.

Brake noise/slight pulsation after sitting, do the google on "lot rot". The rotor would have a light coating of rust everywhere but the area covered by the pads. We normally did a road test on any lot car that was being demo'd, usually it would go away after a few aggressive stops.

FWIW...I always buy the BEST quality brake pads,(aftermarket), for our TV, never scrimp on safety.

Bob

CloudDancing · 05-19-2013, 10:38 AM

On My 2012 F150 EchoBoost, I had those same symptoms after some trailering in the mountains . As it only happens under hard braking or when braking down hill while towing, it was hard to convince the dealer that there was a problem. I finally convinced them to check the rotors for warp which they found on my L front only and even though the brake pads were still good at 25K miles. I had the rotor turned and new pads installed in the front.
I've since had no problems after towing another 6800 miles.
Larry

JFScheck · 05-19-2013, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDancing

F150 Supercrew, 157 " WB with Max Trailer towing package and 3.73 rear end. It is rated 11,100 Lb Max trailer load I use a Equalizer hitch system which does the job but can be noisy.

What is your max payload (see sticker inside drivers door)?

CloudDancing · 05-20-2013, 06:41 AM

Sorry to be Acronym challenged. The Sticker #s are
GVWR 7700
GAWR 4450

Denis4x4 · 05-20-2013, 07:24 AM

Warped front disk drums are not uncommon on Ford trucks due to over heating. Since these are not covered under warranty, I replaced the ones on my F-250 with aftermarket performance units.

kscherzi · 05-20-2013, 07:54 AM

I read several theories for brake shudder.

1. Warped rotors due to overheating.
2. Warped rotors due to overtightened lug nuts.
3. Molecular bonding of brake pad material to rotor due to rapid stopping and a "baking" effect. Seems only apply to ceramic pads.

My Expedition shudders/pulses slightly. I've replaced the rotors twice. Fixes the problem for awhile, but it always returns. I live in a hilly area and go to Tahoe a lot in the mountains so heavy braking is normal.

SteveH · 05-20-2013, 08:12 AM

Warped rotors and the resulting pulsating brake peddle are caused by too much heat. And the excessive heat is caused by the single piston caliper sticking to one side, making the pads drag, which is usually caused by corrosion or no lubricant where the calipers mount.

When you replace the rotors, lubricate the mounts for the calipers with anti-seize compound, and they won't warp again for a much longer time. It's best to re-lubricate the caliper mounts every time you rotate the tires.

On the GM vehicles the same thing happens after the rubber "O" rings in the mounts become too hard from heat and age.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-20-2013, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Denis4x4

Warped front disk drums are not uncommon on Ford trucks due to over heating. Since these are not covered under warranty, I replaced the ones on my F-250 with aftermarket performance units.

Hi, Ford will warranty the brakes if under one year and under 12,000 miles. [whichever comes first] And only one time. After that you are on your own.

daveswenson · 05-20-2013, 01:14 PM

I put these on my Navigator (Expedition ) last month after years of replacing warped rotors. So far I've been very impressed with their performance.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UB...f=ya_aw_oh_pit

slowmover · 05-20-2013, 01:28 PM

Brakes should last 70-80k miles. I didn't replace mine until 120k (and didn't need to). If one does not live in, say, West Virginia or the Rockies it may also be time to consider that a pickup is not driven like a car, solo or towing. The propensity towards rollover isn't just pronounced, it's flat dangerous . . so much so that speeds above 65-mph under best conditions isn't smart. Civilian or professional.

Are FORD brakes really that bad? In 1955 or 1965 they were. Today, it's harder to believe.

And, aftermarket isn't always better (though in the 1990's I would have agreed). The best brakes -- we're talking about towing, not solo use -- on my DODGE are the OEM assembly-line parts (not the dealer sourced "value line"). The stresses introduced by descending a downgrade on rotors and friction materials is, in some ways, the ultimate test. The aftermarket isn't marketing (and maybe not designing) on this aspect despite words to the contrary. Examples and proofs are not easy to come by (even if they can be found).

.

ROBERT CROSS · 05-20-2013, 02:19 PM

...yeah and AS's shouldn't leak.

Bob

Phoenix · 05-20-2013, 02:56 PM

On long downgrades, use engine and transmission for braking, whether towing or not. This will reduce wear and overheated brakes.

Prius's use regenerative braking (electric motor) for normal stops and the ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) on downgrades, and many go to the junkyard with the original pads and rotors. Our 2002 Prius has 130,000 miles on the odometer, and the brake pads look almost new.

Our 2008 Tundra is used primarily to tow our 19-foot Bambi; and at 55,000 miles, the brake pads still have a lot of miles left on them. I expect to replace brake pad and turn rotors at 120-150,000 miles.

JFScheck · 05-20-2013, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDancing

Sorry to be Acronym challenged. The Sticker #s are
GVWR 7700
GAWR 4450

Your max payload....

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-20-2013, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowmover

Brakes should last 70-80k miles.

Hi, maybe where you live, but where I live there are stop signs and traffic signals ever 50 feet or so. Getting 20 to 25 thousand miles on a set of brakes is pretty normal. This situation also brings down fuel mileage too.

ROBERT CROSS · 05-21-2013, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, maybe where you live, but where I live there are stop signs and traffic signals ever 50 feet or so. Getting 20 to 25 thousand miles on a set of brakes is pretty normal. This situation also brings down fuel mileage too.

Two to three Buffalo Winters, regardless of miles.....

Bob

slowmover · 05-21-2013, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, maybe where you live, but where I live there are stop signs and traffic signals ever 50 feet or so. Getting 20 to 25 thousand miles on a set of brakes is pretty normal. This situation also brings down fuel mileage too.

It comes to a question of skill. My father averaged 90k and I was never able to match him. This was in Dallas over a fifty-year period. No lack of stop'n go. OTOH, my mother tended to late-brake AND ride the brakes and came up with the low mileage you note. The vehicle type (and weight) didn't matter.

The heavier the vehicle the more "momentum" has to be accounted. Both harder to accelerate to a given speed (one quits accelerating below the target speed which itself is below the posted limit, and then drifts slightly upwards), and using the least throttle opening (almost coasting) the long distances to a full stop . . better if one learns on ones usual routes to anticipate light changes and make them work.

It is skill acquisition, same as for lowest fuel burn for the work given.

Most of us learn to drive as teenagers . . so kick those emotional reactions to the curb and let rationality drive comfortable changes to establish new habits.

In other words, it is a [set of] choice[s].

.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-21-2013, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowmover

It comes to a question of skill. It is skill acquisition, same as for lowest fuel burn for the work given.

Hi, then I guess by your statements that you and your family are the only ones in this country who know how to drive. The rest of us just should coast to a stop to save our $50.00 brake pads. [retired now] I have been working at new car dealers since 1968 and 20 to 25 thousand miles per brake job is a pretty much normal thing around here. Unlike you, I could care less if I have to replace my brake pads every couple of years and I also don't care to drive at 47.153624 miles per hour to save a few drops of gas/fuel. I'm not a big rig driver, but I can out drive most people on and off the track in cars, trucks, motorcycles, and while towing my Airstream. I have driven in conditions where most people would just park of stay home.