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Old 10-21-2018, 04:26 PM   #1
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2012 19' International
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First tow with Dodge CTD

Was pleasantly surprised how well this truck works with my 27’. My F350 worked well with this trailer but the diesel tows it with authority. Very fast off the line, actually pushes you back in your seat. 70 mph at 1700 rpm just like everyone says. Just turned 37,000 miles on the truck today.
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:51 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Countryboy59 View Post
Was pleasantly surprised how well this truck works with my 27’. My F350 worked well with this trailer but the diesel tows it with authority. Very fast off the line, actually pushes you back in your seat. 70 mph at 1700 rpm just like everyone says. Just turned 37,000 miles on the truck today.


Glad you had a good experience with it.

The differences are something that must be felt in person. Many people here speculate/assume they know. However, until you sit in the seat of each type, you really don’t know.

Like you said “w/ authority” instead of just towing it.

Also like you, I like 70mph constant speed. The downhill with the engine brake is priceless IMHO !

All in all we are just more comfortable while towing.

Keep towing with a smile !
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:03 AM   #3
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Dittos to what was said! The gear head side of me loves to tow with this truck - towing is fun.
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:24 PM   #4
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The manual’s not really clear-do I set the controller to light electric or heavy electric for the 27’? Even at 3.0 gain on the Heavy setting the trailer brakes are definitely effective.

So far mileage has been 15 not towing, 12.5 towing, a little better than my Ford gas engine. I’ve suffered from a heavy foot when driving this so who knows?

Love the heated steering wheel for my arthritic hands. And the heated and cooled seats...I’m sure all this stuff cost me some payload but who cares? ��

Did the coolant flush - 7 gallons worth. 12 qts synthetic + filter because who knows what the dealer used. 2 fuel filters... $80. 2 gallons Fluid Film and 4 cans CorrosionX for the doors. Gonna upgrade to stainless exhaust...Glad I can still turn a wrench!
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:40 PM   #5
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Your 27FB is a beauty! Truck is nice too! Great combination.
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Old 10-23-2018, 12:12 AM   #6
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I’ve got the same combo, with an 8ft bed. Whoever says a diesel is overkill never towed with this combo.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:23 AM   #7
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I'm using a '15 Ram 3500 with crew cab and 8' box with tool boxes, cover and bed roller, and a 6 speed stick with my CTD to tow a '14 27FB Classic. Love the combo! I'm getting around 18 - 20 mpg empty and a solid 14.5 towing the length of the Appalachians twice a year @ 17,800 GCVW per CAT scale. I set my cruise at either 62 or 67, depending on weather and traffic - and the truck does the rest. Check my gallery for pics...
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:27 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Countryboy59 View Post
The manual’s not really clear-do I set the controller to light electric or heavy electric for the 27’? Even at 3.0 gain on the Heavy setting the trailer brakes are definitely effective.!

Mine are set to 5.0 light for our 28’. I would try towing and stopping using both settings to see what works best for yours.

My milage is best at 67-68mph but, I have a cap so I’m not sure how that changes things.

As far as less payload for the trade off of driving comfort, I am ALL for that! I was sick of feeling “beat up” after a long drive.

You have some dialing in to do but, you will really enjoy it.

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Old 11-22-2018, 09:51 AM   #9
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Gas vs. Diesel

I recently traversed US30 near McConnelsburg, PA with my new Cummins RAM 2500. Some of the grades are long and are 8% with lots of twists and turns. That's about as steep as we get here in PA.

I made the same trip with my RAM 1500 Hemi and just thought I would note the differences (BTW I loved absolutely loved this truck).

The Hemi would make the grade but would be revving in the 4500 range. You knew you were making a heavy tow. The truck was groaning a bit asking when this was going to be over. Going down was on the nail biting side making sure to down shift (again high revolutions) and pumping the brakes to keep it under control.

On the other hand the Cummins seemed to enjoy the pull. Plenty of power with relatively low RPMs. The exhaust brake is awesome. Whatever speed you put it at it holds it there without hardly touching the brakes. My DW even said she felt comfortable going down the mountain. And that is saying something.

So while I loved the 1500 Hemi and I love the Cummins more for towing. Especially in the mountains!

FWIW and YMMV!
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Old 11-22-2018, 11:43 AM   #10
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2005 5.9L Dodge Cummins 6 speed manual. Owned since new.

One thing about the Cummins I think it’s a bit like a draft horse being harnessed and then hooked up for pulling. When you feel it pull the load you’ll appreciate its abilities.

Almost 200K and not even new brakes yet.
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Old 11-25-2018, 10:58 AM   #11
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That MPG is poor. I don’t hear that low very often. Might not just be heavy foot.

Worth the test to find reason (I’m not writing this to spar with you):

1). Truck & trailer hitched as usual. From a filling station with first click of pump. A roughly 100-mile loop back to same station to refill same way from same pump (just be extra-consistent). 60-mph (that’s a testing default number due to aero). Always cruise control.

2). Truck solo. Same as above. Same day best.

The real test is ABBA. But the above will suffice.

Looking for the percentage change. Absolute MPG number not important here.

40% change is expected. More indicates problems.

Both vehicles:
Alignment
Brake drag

Truck only:
CAC leaks

Trailer only:
Bearing pre-set.

Bad hitch rigging is the other. And most likely (given tires are essentially highway friendly; closed shoulder rib as best; thus second highest likelihood).

Because both vehicles are new changes nothing. Verify. (Knowing the alignment shop that can work AS numbers on torsion axles a VERY good idea). MPG is usually a set of small things.

I average 15 with my 35’ (and found a dozen comps from the era). Have hit 17. At the same speed with the same solo truck load minus TW I’m at 25. The average is dead-on 40% (And could be better). This knowledge is about confirmation of hitch settings, etc.

1). Get the scale tickets. Perfect tire pressure per actual load. Work the Steer Axle numbers with Three Pass. (And a Hensley benefits MPG so I KNOW something is off. You got meds for that St Vitus Syndrome?). Trailer passes the carpenters level across door threshold test when hitched?

2). Do the above MPG testing

ESTABLISH A NUMERICAL BASELINE.
Don’t want to listen to me, check with Robert Cross. 2Airishuman. Guskmg. (GCinSC for anything but him and guskmg especially for disc brakes).

Useful all the years/miles you own it. A TARE weight first (max fuel plus driver and permanent gear only).

If the truck were mine I’d go to Bilstein shocks and the SUPER STEER Panhard Rod immediately (see SteveH experience). With 4WD, then a steering box brace also if other 4Gen owners are still doing that.

4WD Steering sucks. On your MPG testing, record the steering wheel corrections per 100-miles. (Yes, ask Kenworth or Cummins).

(And, IIRC, the OEM exhaust has been stainless for years).

You can take me up on the sincerity of any of this. I know you take it seriously. More details apply than what I’ve written. With too many others it’s a lost cause (only thing works with them is that money appears when done right).

Good luck.

.
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Old 11-25-2018, 11:20 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
Trailer only:
Bearing pre-set.
.
I would think if that was a cause of poor mileage, the bearings would be toast in pretty short order.
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Old 11-25-2018, 11:28 AM   #13
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Yes an no. Small things add up. One service tech did one side, another did the opposite. Different amounts of grease. Different TYPES of grease. Different pre-set. Etc. Never count out unexpected.

It’s a case of ruling out the obvious. Bearing work also includes brake examination. It all is to the point. “New” vehicles not exempt.
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Old 11-25-2018, 11:35 AM   #14
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I forgot, CB59. You’re down the street from CAN AM RV.
Make an appointment and go see the real expert.

A Hensley needs the stinger cut & rewelded for best pre-set. The hitch receiver could use some bracing forward on the frame if you can’t get Steer Axle values the same when hitched and unhitched. (How much weight on Steer irrelevant. It’s in matching Solo).

And get his advice on tires/wheels. Truck owners give up a lot in this. For your future plans. To make better what’s the worst vehicle. Study up on optional sizing of both. There’s always some dumb kid selling take-offs. And then sell yours.

Change anti-roll bar bushings to poly, also. Easy for shop with pit.

Bushings, Panhard, shocks will surprise you. Dialing in WDH is cake icing afterwards no matter how often you change the load.

Do these, see Andy, and then tell me with a straight face it’s the same truck. The same rig.

Don’t spare effort or the small change in your pocket.

Best

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Old 11-25-2018, 04:47 PM   #15
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Yep, Andy set up the Hensley to my Ford. Haven’t had it re-setup to the Dodge but the height matches up just right and it tows level. Truck may have done a regen also, which would reduce mileage (all emissions stuff intact).
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Old 11-25-2018, 05:09 PM   #16
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I set the brake controller at 5.5 to 6.5 Light Trailer depending on terrain. My 2016 2500 Diesel Laramie 4x4 with bed cap gets 14.5 to 15.5 mpg towing my 2017 25 FB. I see as high as 20 mpg on flat runs. I drive at 60-65 in California where the speed limit for trailer towing is 55. Once over the Arizona, Nevada or Utah line I up it to 70+.

My previous 2013 RAM 1500 gas Hemi was great towing uphill. The 2500 is much nicer downhill. Cargo capacity is much higher on the 2500.

The 2500 is equipped with an Equalizer hitch for sway control, and Automatic Air Load Leveling option with Alt Trailer Height for weight distribution and load leveling.

I've never gone to a CAT scale with the 2500. I did with the lighter 1500.
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Old 11-25-2018, 06:53 PM   #17
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2007 2500 diesel. Wind seems to have the most effect on my towing milage. Down to 10.5 to 11 this summer coming east from Livingston. Thought something was wrong with the truck. Seemed to be running fine. 3 days later the milage went back up to 15 and has stayed up. I decided it was a combination of midwest fuel, elevation, and wind, with wind being the main factor. A tail wind helps my rig but a strong cross wind and head winds hold me back a lot.

My cruise control sucks fuel if there are any hills at all. I can do a lot better letting it slow a little up on hills and pushing harder down hills. The cruise increases 1 to 2 mph up a hill and will actually shift down to keep from going a couple over at the bottom of a hill. Very frustrating. Is there a way to tune a Dodge cruise control?
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:12 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Countryboy59 View Post
Yep, Andy set up the Hensley to my Ford. Haven’t had it re-setup to the Dodge but the height matches up just right and it tows level. Truck may have done a regen also, which would reduce mileage (all emissions stuff intact).
It’s in the scale tickets. Steer Axle Equality. Shortened shank and re-angled stinger. (Of course if bed is empty — bad FF/RR weight bias — it’ll never be very good)

The other items drastically improve steering response. Straight-axle trucks with 1960s steering return no feel of what TT is doing. Panhard Rod cuts crosswind pickup steer corrections, etc.

Carpenters level across TT door threshold is “level”.

Tires to actual load. Not higher.

And baseline testing re MPG as above.

Part of which is engine idle time. Percent of whole. Average MPH linked to odometer reading.
27-mph or lower is too low. Any trips less than three hours are “short trips”.

This time of year asks for use of a MOPAR winter front (41F or lower daily high). Same for installation of a KIMM HOTSTART as reducing engine oil time to op temp (not coolant) is the game. Plug in block heater year-round. Even in Texas summer it cuts warmup.

I use polycarbonate grill blocks the rest of the year. Four pieces to fit grill. Two each high and low. Only above 92F or so does coolant reach thermostat opening temp (which means removal).

Your truck uses software to adjust turbo vanes for temp controls. As does this Paccar 13L I’m listening to. But there is still a WF under the bunk.

You want long life you’ll pay close attention to a vehicle badly-spec’d for the job (not used according to design). Driving around “empty” (1k extra in truck) with short trips isn’t what these like. Idle percent, average mph and MPG are all indicators
.
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