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Old 10-07-2012, 09:50 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by excellaf350 View Post
nice set up. You wont need much on the bars there is enough spring rate on the truck to handle the weight but the sway control of the hitch helps. A nice brake control also helps alot.

I tow a 29' with a 2003 F350 CCSB SRW (7.3L PSD) and I use a Hensley. It tows great. Honestly I am very pleased with the way it rides. Wife, kids and bed full of equipment I can set the cruise control and sit back and relax, it just goes. Pulls hills no problem. Earlier this year we did a trip to NY on the way home took about a 5% grade for about 5 miles and it was no sweat. I rarely have to take it out of OD. One of my friends tows his 34 with a 99 F350 CCLB SRW and he has no problems either. Only other difference is the 4x4 and I have 4x2. At 65-70 mph I get about 13/14 mpg.


Thanks for the comparison. I also thought the Ford towed very nice, the DRWs make it rock solid. I looked for an SRW truck but just could not find one spec'd the way I wanted with low miles (2001 - 2002, 4x4, loaded, manual, long bed, 7.3). I am sure if I spent another 6mo something would turn up but this one was close enough and I am very happy with it so far to the point that my wife is sick of hearing me yap about it.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:51 PM   #16
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Our TV is a 2001 F350 single axle with an EAZ-Lift hitch, 1000 lb bars. Anit-sway control is always used after that first time a semi passed me doing 75-80. Sure came in handy while up and back to Canada in Wyoming on I25 with those crosswinds.
Thanks BigC, that tells me I am close to your setup and you have had a very positive experience so far.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:32 AM   #17
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dually, 4x4 and lift kit will make it ride more like a truck for sure but it will handle the trailer with ease. The 7.3L definately doesnt have the power that some of the newer motors out there have.... but it is plenty capable of hauling around that 34. My truck has 3.73's and stock size tires cruising at 75 I am just a tad over 2000 rpm with the 4R100 auto trans. sweet spot seems to be right in that 1800 to 2200 rpm range you hit a hill and the boost comes up to about 11/12 psi and it just doesnt slow down. I have had to downshift on hills because of slower traffic. Ocasionally I have been stuck behind slower trafic say 55 mph hitting a hill and at that point its easier to just hit the OD button and leave it in 3rd till I get up to speed again. 55 in 4th gear lugs the motor down to 1500 rpm and lower so it doesnt have much "umph" there. As for reliability? Well thats why I bought this truck. I was lucky and found an 03 with only 35k miles on it. The truck could literially last me forever with the miles I put on it. The 7.3L had its share of problems but in a personal vehicle if you use good oil and change it frequently it will almost never have a breakdown. I love my 7.3l the truck doesnt have all the bells and whistles as some of the new stuff out there does but it tows great. Being 4x2 it rides smooth. I make sure I leave a little extra weight in the bed and I dont crank down the spring bars too much. More weight on the rear springs helps it ride smoother imo.

the Ford 6.0L has a ton of extra HP but I wouldnt touch one with a 10 foot pole. I actually have one in my 04 F450 (work truck) its in the shop all the time... rediculiously high maintenance bills and I change the oil on it religiously ay 5k miles. I can't believe my work is still keeping it. Every breakdown is a tow in and an average $2500+ repair. I have had 6 of them in the past year the truck has 200k on it.

the cummins and duramax are both plenty capable of haulin as well but price becomes a factor too.... I wont get into the diesel debate. I am a GM guy at heart but couldnt find a duramax with under 100k miles for less than $32k...
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:19 AM   #18
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Oh forgot to mention 1 other thing you will see is that the 4x4 f350 has front and rear leaf springs so it will have a rougher ride... my 4x2 has coil fronts with a twin I beam system so it rides like a caddy . However I did put on 2" leveling blocks and an alignment to ge tht efront ride height to make it look like a truck while riding like a car.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:39 PM   #19
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See if KONI has their new FSD shock absorber spec'd for your model truck (even with the lift; make measurements). It was designed for leaf-sprung solid axle vehicles such as Class C motorhomes. Not cheap at $170/ea, but there is nothing better than KONI out there. The reports are encouraging.

Also, as to ride comfort try to differentiate between "vibration" and "jarring" in attempting any changes. A gel type seat cushion, for example, is great at reducing felt vibration to the driver, and better (more sophisticated) shock absorbers are better at the jounces/jarring. Don't forget noise abatement as a rougher riding truck can be perceived as a better ride than a softer riding one just because the former has a more quiet cab. New weatherstripping on drivers door (given age & use) could make a difference, not just underhood (oilpan).

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Old 10-08-2012, 07:04 PM   #20
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Thanks excellaf350 for sharing the tips on bed weight. I have it set up so that the weight pushes the frame contacts to just touching the first set of overload springs. The ride was tolerable I have probably made too big a deal out of it. It is just not as soft as the 3/4 ton but is completely what I expected for such a truck.
" My truck has 3.73's and stock size tires cruising at 75 I am just a tad over 2000 rpm with the 4R100 auto trans. " That is exactly what I needed to know. A very good data point if I ever change the gears.



Rednax, thanks for the tip on the shocks. I need to see what is on it now. They seem like they are pretty fancy but I have not looked that closely.

The steering does seem like the deadzone is a bit more than I would expect. I am going to have the mechanic check the ball joints and tie rods for wear.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:04 PM   #21
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Steering wander is the bane of 4WD trucks. Dead, unresponsive steering with almost no feedback. When one reads about how well their new supertruck pulls the trailer -- never any sway even without WDH + antisway!! -- I already know the problem not being addressed. Fact is, one can follow along and record on video the incipient sway nearly always present in towing . . . unless they have a VPP or PullRite hitch.

Add in the miles and then the accelerated wear from a lift kit and bet that this is a lousy towing combination compared to what it could be.

The advantage of returning it to stock height is actually several: Lower COG, reduced wear & tear, higher mpg, and most of all: better transient handling response & braking.

While you have it up there, replace the anti-roll bar bushings with ENERGY SUSPENSION polyurethane pieces, both center bushings and endlinks. A cheap and worthwhile upgrade.

And check the motor mounts, too.

Good luck

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Old 10-09-2012, 06:54 AM   #22
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Agree with rednax... I would loose the lift kit. It looks cool but not going to help the ride comfort and handling. It will definately hurt the milage and with 4.10's in it you will need all the help you can get. Some of your wander/deadzone may be due to alignment as well. As suggested check out the front end and the alignment. Tire pressureand wear can have a big affect also. I always know when my work truck needs tires, it starts to pull and wander and nothing will fix it, slap on some new rubber and its as good as new.
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:42 PM   #23
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Your forgetting one thing: resale on a 4x4 is far superior to 2x4
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:19 PM   #24
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Your forgetting one thing: resale on a 4x4 is far superior to 2x4
The initial price is higher as well. They track down the years, too. But the operating/repair expense of 4WD is sky-high in comparison. Advantage is to 2WD in any on-road situation (especially with IFS + rack & pinion steering). See other threads on this.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:26 PM   #25
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Trust me when I say that I would return it to stock in a second if it was even remotely cost effective. I'll get a quote and see what it would be. The back is easy, it is just a couple of blocks under the springs. The front had major hardware replacement to achieve the lift.

I guess I don't follow that loose steering is inherent to all 4wd trucks. My yukon xl is 4x4 and it is nice and tight it is vintage 2001. Does have coils in the front. The f350 is spring as you know. I'd have towed with the yukon but holy crow it is a dog on the hills. Plus packing in bikes, generator, fuel, lanterns, etc in the back of the yuker was not the best.

I am very happy with the Ford so far and will try to address the lift and steering issue if feasible.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:51 AM   #26
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Your forgetting one thing: resale on a 4x4 is far superior to 2x4

true but when you have a bone stock never modded 7.3L PSD with only 37k miles on it people can look past the 2wd part Since I already have a 4x4 Yukon I dont need another 4x4. The pros far outweight the cons. If you never go off road why do you need a 4x4? It really does drive like a car.

But seriously if it were my only vehicle I probably would have opted for 4x4.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:03 AM   #27
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Trust me when I say that I would return it to stock in a second if it was even remotely cost effective. I'll get a quote and see what it would be. The back is easy, it is just a couple of blocks under the springs. The front had major hardware replacement to achieve the lift.

I guess I don't follow that loose steering is inherent to all 4wd trucks. My yukon xl is 4x4 and it is nice and tight it is vintage 2001. Does have coils in the front. The f350 is spring as you know. I'd have towed with the yukon but holy crow it is a dog on the hills. Plus packing in bikes, generator, fuel, lanterns, etc in the back of the yuker was not the best.

I am very happy with the Ford so far and will try to address the lift and steering issue if feasible.

there are hundreds of types of lift kits out there and every one is different. Much of the hardware is there to try and returnt eh correct geometry on the steering and suspension, another reason to go back to stock. look there are plenty of reasons to have a big lifted truck but if your sole purpose is to tow and airstream.. IMO I would rather not have it sky high.

Its funny you have a Yukon... So do I. Its an 05 4x4. Steering is tight! But I tried to tow my 29 with my yukon when I bought it.... towed it 60 miles and called my friend to come pull the trailer the rest of the way home. When I got home went out the next day truck shopping. That was only a 29 I couldnt even imagine a 34 on the back. Its fine if your biggest trip is under 80 miles but the second you get that girl out on a highway, on a hill and try to do 65 mph you realize its WAY under powered and WAY too light weight to pull a trailer of that size. I know the trans would have been history in no time had I kept doing that. Part of the Yukons problem was the 3.42 gears in it but no way I was putting 4.10's in it front and rear to still have a truck that was not quite capable, and already got horrible mpg. My Ford gets better mpg with and without the trailer!
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:28 PM   #28
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It is the XL, which is the suburban version. I don't know if the wheelbase is different than a straight yukon but it was stable enough. Flat highways and I could do 75. Any kind of grade and I was toast. it has a 4l80e which are supposed to be pretty good. I was worried more about the motor screaming away at 4k and up to get up the hills. It would have put some serious wear on the engine. I think the '05s have the LQ9 which has a bit more power than my LQ4 version.
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