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Old 09-09-2016, 11:39 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
Is the Roadmaster kit the thing that looks like a bracket and a big coil spring sitting on top of the leaf spring?
Does it help?
For comparison purposes I, unfortunately, have driven from day one with the Roadmaster kit so I have no objective way to assess the handling of the Tundra with and without the Roadmaster "helper springs". I feel safe with the handling of the Tundra with the Roadmaster kit and a correctly installed and adjusted Equalizer WDH. I'm sure I would also feel safe, and I assume more relaxed going downhill, with a 3/4 or 1 ton truck with greater engine braking and air brakes . We make our choices .

Here's the Roadmaster website: http://www.activesuspension.com
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:46 AM   #44
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I feel safe with my Tundra CrewMax Limited, Equal-i-zer Original 4-point Sway Control hitch, and 30' Classic, but if there is something I can to improve the experience, especially a $450 something, I am interested.
I might detect an improvement right away if there is any improvement because I have towed for 6 years/55,000 miles the way it is now.
It seems like the Roadmaster kit could possibly help transfer a little more weight to the front axle by reducing rear leaf spring sag.
I guess that should be another thread.
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:49 AM   #45
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@Boxite

"Here's an intelligent article written in RV Lifestyle magazine that gave me a reason to re-think a bit about this subject:
http://rvlifemag.com/towing-half-ton-three-quarter-ton/"

I really liked the real world experience that the author spoke about in this article. Thanks so much for posting it.

Isn't it great that we have so much information available to us and so many wonderful vehicles to choose from, if we are lucky enough to have the money!
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:50 AM   #46
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Ah, the old half ton vs. 3/4 or 1 ton debate.

My take on it having had both and towing a good amount with them - if you do most of your truck use towing, get a 1 ton. If you do most of your driving not hooked up (ie daily driver or use it a few times a week) and just tow a few times a year, get the half ton. If it's mixed, get a 3/4 ton.

My 1 ton ford towed like a dream and rode decently when loaded and the engine (it was an older 460 powered one) didn't notice much of a difference loaded or not, it had torque for days. Never had to worry about how much weight I could put in it or tow with it, the bed couldn't fit the 3500lbs or so of payload capacity it had and the hitch was rated lower than the truck. The most I ever got in the bed was 2700lbs of crushed stone (that was all that would fit) and it was the nicest the truck ever rode .

My current half ton works harder when towing for sure. However, it sees a lot of use not towing - including daily driver duty at times - and is so much more comfortable when not loaded it's worth the drop in ability. The 1 ton was truly bone jarring when unloaded. I think with the amount of towing I do (probably 10+ trips a year with the airstream) a 3/4 ton would be the sweet spot, but I'd get one with a softer suspension and not one of those 'off-road' package ones. If when I bought my current truck I knew it would be a 'dedicated' truck and not have to pull DD and some long trip duty unloaded, I would have gotten a 3/4 ton. If I lived on the road or spent most of my time towing, I'd get a 1 ton but I can't see any other reason to get one over a 3/4 ton unless you truly need that extra capacity (in which case neither the 1/2 or 3/4 ton are part of the equation).
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:54 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I feel safe with my Tundra CrewMax Limited, Equal-i-zer Original 4-point Sway Control hitch, and 30' Classic, but if there is something I can to improve the experience, especially a $450 something, I am interested.
I might detect an improvement right away if there is any improvement because I have towed for 6 years/55,000 miles the way it is now.
It seems like the Roadmaster kit could possibly help transfer a little more weight to the front axle by reducing rear leaf spring sag.
I guess that should be another thread.
My hitch guys also mentioned that there were perhaps longer lasting "helper spring" kits out there from other manufacturers (I purchased the Roadmaster from the Toyota dealer) so that might be worth checking out. Don't know if there are any independent video tests/reviews of "with and without" helper springs but the Roadmaster videos are impressive (They wouldn't post them if they weren't. Ha!).

Anyway, given the payload I run with I felt the same way as you do about spending $450 for some potential better safety and less strain on the rear leaf springs. I'm in!
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:23 PM   #48
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I have already found some dealers within 50-100 miles of me.
My curious is up.
I'll be checking them out on YouTube.
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Old 09-09-2016, 01:42 PM   #49
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MissingLinks5....

(The Diesel Engine Braking also takes a few times to get the feel. It does work. A stiff braking and it kicks in and you eventually find yourself going too slow and need to give it fuel to reset the braking speed. It does take getting adjusted to engine braking.)

.

Try using the manual shift instead of stiff braking/accelerating when engine brake is engaged on decent , much smoother and you will find each gear generally holds its own speed 4= 40mph, 5=50mph. I have found this to be useful even on 7% grades.


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Old 09-10-2016, 03:59 PM   #50
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2015 2500 Duramax 30' Bunk:
Set tow mode.
Set engine brake on.
Set cruise control.
With cruise set and engine brake on down hill speed will never exceed set speed even on the steepest of declines. It provides unmatched safety and control. Just relax and watch out for others.


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Old 09-11-2016, 08:29 AM   #51
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Our Ford F-350 diesel is new, last summer. My former truck ( '06 Dodge 3500) did not have the engine brake, the Ford does so it's a new experience for me. I find that when using cruise control the system ( engine brake / trans downshift combination) works very well in keeping downggrade speeds under control. The ONLY thing I don't like is that I find that at a highway speed in the say 50-65mph range when starting the downgrade it will overspeed 8-10mph before the systems kick in and begin to control the speed. Once they are in they grab nicely and work well but sometimes I don't like the increase in speed. I don't notice it all that much at slower speeds but it does happen.
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:16 AM   #52
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Hi Ray,

Congratulations on the Ford F-350. I recently traded my 2013 F-150 Platinum EcoBoost for a new 2016 F-350 Platinum 6.7L. We currently tow a 2015 27FB International Signature but will be picking up our new 2017 Classic 30 in a couple weeks at Colonial. The difference between the Super Duty and F-150 is quite remarkable. Even with everything we can think of tossed in the bed and a full trailer, the F350 just motors along with ease. Just passed 7000 miles and so far zero issues with the truck. Based on the trips we've made thus far, towing the new Classic will be a delight. Enjoy your Super Duty and safe travels.
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Old 09-11-2016, 07:42 PM   #53
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polorlyse, my Super Duty does the same thing. I feel I get too much "gravity" speed up before the system figures out we're going down hill. I have to use my brakes to slow and set the desired downhill speed and then the truck will maintain that speed. I think the other brands have a bit better engine braking system than the Super Duty from what I have read.

David
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Old 09-12-2016, 06:24 AM   #54
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The old adage, go down the same speed as you went up does not always apply. My one ton Cummins can climb any grade at just about any speed I want, but going down the other side is another story without engine braking, jake brake , etc.. Tow Haul only adjusts shift point. I do have an overdrive cutoff switch which helps up and down. But all that power going up can make you powerless going down. Be careful, stay aware of what's coming on the road. I always adjust my speed at the top of the climb in preparation for the downhill run because I am usually going faster up than I want to be going down. My truck is an 2006 one ton short bed Cummins powered dodge. The new tow haul stuff must be great to have, what a safety plus. I don't even have cruise control, power windows, power door locks, just a basic work truck that the po set up for towing and payload. Payload 3500 pounds.towing over 10000 pounds. With all this, when going down long grades it pays to be prudent. Using all that power to go up can translate into an adventure going down with these older trucks. Towing is an adventure as is rving, have fun.
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Old 09-12-2016, 07:27 AM   #55
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Avionstream,
You really need to purchase and install a Pacbrake for your 2006 truck. These are supposed to be even more aggressive than the factory integrated exhaust brakes.

http://pacbrake.com/

My truck has the factory integrated exhaust brake. As soon as I let off the accelerator the exhaust brake will start to engage no matter if the ground is level or on a hill. It is really confidence inspiring when the truck can control the load.
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:03 PM   #56
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Sometimes it is more than just a spark plug and a lack of cargo capacity.

A vehicle at a mining claim in Nevada.
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