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m.hony · 09-09-2016, 10:32 AM

As a happy Tundra owner I concur.
Pros:
Power
Comfort
Handling
Cons:
Fuel economy
Small fuel tank size
Borderline payload
Tell me more about the Roadmaster springs. Do they take away some of the bounce or wobble? Does the ride quality suffer at all?

Ray Eklund · 09-09-2016, 10:32 AM

MissingLinks5.... taking your Tundra 'down a steep grade' is to Dance with the Devil.

- Overheat your vehicles brake fluid from constant braking, and you had better start... dancing.
- Too much speed downhill and you HAVE to do an abrupt braking to get into a lower gear. This is actually the best option I have found for short sections of steep grade for speed control and get into that lower gear. Keep your engine RPM below 'red lining'.
- The 'Tundra shift Paddle' is a wonderful system, you will learn the 'dance from experience'.
- Tow Mode changes the gear shifting going up. I am not sure if it did anything for me in steep Colorado passes.

Much like learning to ride a bicycle or skiing... you just have to get practice. Many would panic and create their own problems in the process. Find your comfort level and maintain that speed with downshifting to an appropriate gear. When speed begins to increase above your comfort zone, a good short session of braking to maintain... control, minimizing riding your brakes, and find the gear that maintains speed control in your comfort level.

Like landing an aircraft. It is a 'controlled crash'. A helicopter 'autorotates' and the same. A controlled crash. Your tow vehicle and Airstream in tow... preventing a controlled crash.

(The Diesel Engine Braking also takes a few times to get the feel. It does work. A stiff braking and it kicks in and you eventually find yourself going too slow and need to give it fuel to reset the braking speed. It does take getting adjusted to engine braking.)

- Maintain a speed which you are comfortable. Others will pass you if they are in a hurry.
- As you get better at speed control, your confidence will also increase.
- If the curve indicates a speed of 65mph on a 75mph highway and you are holding your own at 55 to 60... you are in a sweet comfort zone.
- When you can take advantage of the down grade, on a straight section of road going upgrade, get your speed back up for the climb!

This is the Dancing with the Devil.

Everyone learns this Dance by experience, by actually doing it. Start out conservative in your speed and get a feel how your trailer is assisting in the braking process. You sure do not want your trailer's brakes locking up and smoking tires and you are just 'riding the brakes on the tow vehicle'.

I found Monarch Pass in south central Colorado a great example of Trailer Skiing a Black Diamond ski slope. After a couple of these... you will have a Thread how you managed to find that comfort zone. We all start from the same basic level of towing.

Meeks · 09-09-2016, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

Is the Roadmaster kit the thing that looks like a bracket and a big coil spring sitting on top of the leaf spring?
Does it help?

For comparison purposes I, unfortunately, have driven from day one with the Roadmaster kit so I have no objective way to assess the handling of the Tundra with and without the Roadmaster "helper springs". I feel safe with the handling of the Tundra with the Roadmaster kit and a correctly installed and adjusted Equalizer WDH. I'm sure I would also feel safe, and I assume more relaxed going downhill, with a 3/4 or 1 ton truck with greater engine braking and air brakes

. We make our choices

.

Here's the Roadmaster website: http://www.activesuspension.com

m.hony · 09-09-2016, 10:46 AM

I feel safe with my Tundra CrewMax Limited, Equal-i-zer Original 4-point Sway Control hitch, and 30' Classic, but if there is something I can to improve the experience, especially a $450 something, I am interested.
I might detect an improvement right away if there is any improvement because I have towed for 6 years/55,000 miles the way it is now.
It seems like the Roadmaster kit could possibly help transfer a little more weight to the front axle by reducing rear leaf spring sag.
I guess that should be another thread.

Meeks · 09-09-2016, 10:49 AM

@Boxite

"Here's an intelligent article written in RV Lifestyle magazine that gave me a reason to re-think a bit about this subject:
http://rvlifemag.com/towing-half-ton-three-quarter-ton/"

I really liked the real world experience that the author spoke about in this article. Thanks so much for posting it.

Isn't it great that we have so much information available to us and so many wonderful vehicles to choose from, if we are lucky enough to have the money!

bobzdar · 09-09-2016, 10:50 AM

Ah, the old half ton vs. 3/4 or 1 ton debate.

My take on it having had both and towing a good amount with them - if you do most of your truck use towing, get a 1 ton. If you do most of your driving not hooked up (ie daily driver or use it a few times a week) and just tow a few times a year, get the half ton. If it's mixed, get a 3/4 ton.

My 1 ton ford towed like a dream and rode decently when loaded and the engine (it was an older 460 powered one) didn't notice much of a difference loaded or not, it had torque for days. Never had to worry about how much weight I could put in it or tow with it, the bed couldn't fit the 3500lbs or so of payload capacity it had and the hitch was rated lower than the truck. The most I ever got in the bed was 2700lbs of crushed stone (that was all that would fit) and it was the nicest the truck ever rode

.

My current half ton works harder when towing for sure. However, it sees a lot of use not towing - including daily driver duty at times - and is so much more comfortable when not loaded it's worth the drop in ability. The 1 ton was truly bone jarring when unloaded. I think with the amount of towing I do (probably 10+ trips a year with the airstream) a 3/4 ton would be the sweet spot, but I'd get one with a softer suspension and not one of those 'off-road' package ones. If when I bought my current truck I knew it would be a 'dedicated' truck and not have to pull DD and some long trip duty unloaded, I would have gotten a 3/4 ton. If I lived on the road or spent most of my time towing, I'd get a 1 ton but I can't see any other reason to get one over a 3/4 ton unless you truly need that extra capacity (in which case neither the 1/2 or 3/4 ton are part of the equation).

Meeks · 09-09-2016, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

I feel safe with my Tundra CrewMax Limited, Equal-i-zer Original 4-point Sway Control hitch, and 30' Classic, but if there is something I can to improve the experience, especially a $450 something, I am interested.
I might detect an improvement right away if there is any improvement because I have towed for 6 years/55,000 miles the way it is now.
It seems like the Roadmaster kit could possibly help transfer a little more weight to the front axle by reducing rear leaf spring sag.
I guess that should be another thread.

My hitch guys also mentioned that there were perhaps longer lasting "helper spring" kits out there from other manufacturers (I purchased the Roadmaster from the Toyota dealer) so that might be worth checking out. Don't know if there are any independent video tests/reviews of "with and without" helper springs but the Roadmaster videos are impressive (They wouldn't post them if they weren't. Ha!).

Anyway, given the payload I run with I felt the same way as you do about spending $450 for some potential better safety and less strain on the rear leaf springs. I'm in!

m.hony · 09-09-2016, 11:23 AM

I have already found some dealers within 50-100 miles of me.
My curious is up.
I'll be checking them out on YouTube.

sheriff1 · 09-09-2016, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

MissingLinks5....

(The Diesel Engine Braking also takes a few times to get the feel. It does work. A stiff braking and it kicks in and you eventually find yourself going too slow and need to give it fuel to reset the braking speed. It does take getting adjusted to engine braking.)

.

Try using the manual shift instead of stiff braking/accelerating when engine brake is engaged on decent , much smoother and you will find each gear generally holds its own speed 4= 40mph, 5=50mph. I have found this to be useful even on 7% grades.

2015 F350 CC 4X4 6.7 Diesel
2010 27FB Silver Cloud "The Silver Spoon"

2012FB · 09-10-2016, 02:59 PM

2015 2500 Duramax 30' Bunk:
Set tow mode.
Set engine brake on.
Set cruise control.
With cruise set and engine brake on down hill speed will never exceed set speed even on the steepest of declines. It provides unmatched safety and control. Just relax and watch out for others.

Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

polarlyse · 09-11-2016, 07:29 AM

Our Ford F-350 diesel is new, last summer. My former truck ( '06 Dodge 3500) did not have the engine brake, the Ford does so it's a new experience for me. I find that when using cruise control the system ( engine brake / trans downshift combination) works very well in keeping downggrade speeds under control. The ONLY thing I don't like is that I find that at a highway speed in the say 50-65mph range when starting the downgrade it will overspeed 8-10mph before the systems kick in and begin to control the speed. Once they are in they grab nicely and work well but sometimes I don't like the increase in speed. I don't notice it all that much at slower speeds but it does happen.

rivetville · 09-11-2016, 08:16 AM

Hi Ray,

Congratulations on the Ford F-350. I recently traded my 2013 F-150 Platinum EcoBoost for a new 2016 F-350 Platinum 6.7L. We currently tow a 2015 27FB International Signature but will be picking up our new 2017 Classic 30 in a couple weeks at Colonial. The difference between the Super Duty and F-150 is quite remarkable. Even with everything we can think of tossed in the bed and a full trailer, the F350 just motors along with ease. Just passed 7000 miles and so far zero issues with the truck. Based on the trips we've made thus far, towing the new Classic will be a delight. Enjoy your Super Duty and safe travels.

dbj216 · 09-11-2016, 06:42 PM

polorlyse, my Super Duty does the same thing. I feel I get too much "gravity" speed up before the system figures out we're going down hill. I have to use my brakes to slow and set the desired downhill speed and then the truck will maintain that speed. I think the other brands have a bit better engine braking system than the Super Duty from what I have read.

David

xrvr · 09-12-2016, 05:24 AM

The old adage, go down the same speed as you went up does not always apply. My one ton Cummins can climb any grade at just about any speed I want, but going down the other side is another story without engine braking, jake brake , etc.. Tow Haul only adjusts shift point. I do have an overdrive cutoff switch which helps up and down. But all that power going up can make you powerless going down. Be careful, stay aware of what's coming on the road. I always adjust my speed at the top of the climb in preparation for the downhill run because I am usually going faster up than I want to be going down. My truck is an 2006 one ton short bed Cummins powered dodge. The new tow haul stuff must be great to have, what a safety plus. I don't even have cruise control, power windows, power door locks, just a basic work truck that the po set up for towing and payload. Payload 3500 pounds.towing over 10000 pounds. With all this, when going down long grades it pays to be prudent. Using all that power to go up can translate into an adventure going down with these older trucks. Towing is an adventure as is rving, have fun.

crispyboy · 09-12-2016, 06:27 AM

Avionstream,
You really need to purchase and install a Pacbrake for your 2006 truck. These are supposed to be even more aggressive than the factory integrated exhaust brakes.

http://pacbrake.com/

My truck has the factory integrated exhaust brake. As soon as I let off the accelerator the exhaust brake will start to engage no matter if the ground is level or on a hill. It is really confidence inspiring when the truck can control the load.

Ray Eklund · 09-12-2016, 07:03 PM

Sometimes it is more than just a spark plug and a lack of cargo capacity.

A vehicle at a mining claim in Nevada.

Moflash · 09-13-2016, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheriff1

Try using the manual shift instead of stiff braking/accelerating when engine brake is engaged on decent , much smoother and you will find each gear generally holds its own speed 4= 40mph, 5=50mph. I have found this to be useful even on 7% grades.

2015 F350 CC 4X4 6.7 Diesel
2010 27FB Silver Cloud "The Silver Spoon"

No need to manual shift when descending a hill just tap the brake and it will downshift 1 gear for every tap when it's in tow mode.With the 2015 + Ford 6.7 diesel you also have adaptive cruise control which incorporates engine braking when descending while towing automatically.It works perfectly.

Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

NWRVR · 09-13-2016, 11:49 PM

X2 what Moflash said. I recently returned home from Astoria towing the AS with cruise control set at 55 MPH over the Coast Range and did not have to manually brake for over an hour. Granted, the summit is only 1,500' but there are some long 6% downhill grades that had the rig down shifting to maintain speed. In addition to Tow/Haul I also had the exhaust brake switched on. I love driving this truck!

wbrisett · 09-14-2016, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

At the Tucson Rock Show in February, the Ford F250 and I would have to assume, the F350 older models... are stolen out of the parking lots during the show. It is popular with those taking them back to Mexico.

My friend whose F250 (late 70's or early 80's) was stolen from outside his motel room where they had their show. It was found a month later... in Phoenix.

This is where OnStar with it's lo-jack-like technology comes in handy on the GM side of the house. Living in Texas, I understand exactly what you're talking about. My wife works for a fairly large company and a couple of years ago they had one or two 250/2500 trucks stolen every couple of months. They increased their parking lot patrols of security guards and suddenly it stopped. But heavy duty trucks are a favorite to steal and take across the border.

wbrisett · 09-14-2016, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

Rgentum... I am also surprised. As ScottinNJ said 'give it 10,000 miles to break in'. I am educating myself on a Diesel each day I am on the road! A steep learning curve and being very careful to 'grab the green diesel pump'.

One thing to also consider is going from the 250 to the 350, you are now hauling around a lot more weight even empty... depending on the configuration up to 1000 lbs more weight. That's one of the reasons I really wish GM and Ford would come up with a diesel in the ½ ton range. GM has a 4.4L engine sitting on the shelf that they could use and I'm sure by shedding the weight of the ¾ ton, they would end up getting the high MPG that RAM is getting with their EcoDiesel... but we don't have that so instead we have extremely heavy diesels. That said, I won't give up my 2500 diesel now that I've experienced towing with it. As you're finding out despite all the obvious negatives, there are lots of good things that make up for having that heavy vehicle.