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paiceman · 11-16-2015, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by switz

I spent a lot of money trying to "fix" my Harley wobble. Even after all the mods, it happened a second time. That was the end of the road for me as I felt I might get through a third experience.

Switz, not questioning your wobble on bat wing nor the posts on threads I went to concerning same. Guess I was just lucky, 675,000 registered HD miles in the mileage program, many more prior and the largest percentage with Ultra. Wonder if it's a specific set of circumstances that brings it on or individual bikes only as none of the guys I used to ride with on same type bikes have experienced it either as I questioned them after the posts. Most still ride, I no longer do, figured 50+ years and so many miles luck might catch up to me.

Ride Safe

Bud

IanPoulin · 11-16-2015, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiceman

Totally agree with Switz on mileage, if we slow it down to just under 60 I can get, on level ground over 16mpg, but I don't often. Last summer on I40 going east I picked up two Semi's from the old company I was GM at talked to them via CB and told them I was going to pull in behind them and "draft" them at 60mpg. For 100 miles I averaged over 17mpg, pure bliss.

We opted for the Igot Sliver on both trucks, stays clean much longer than other colors we've had, at least does not show the dirt as readily. And black seats, so the Carhart matches nothing.

Bud

Hey Bud --

Yeah I am already a granny driver; I tend to put it in at 55-60, blinkers on if the limit is 70 or higher and stay in the right lane, allowing the world to pass by me.

I prefer green or the new bronze fire for external colors; just the way I am -- and the lighter leather interiors; black interiors to me just whisper "Wait till august dearie, I'll bide my time... but I'll get you my pretty! and your little dog, too!"

what's the non-nav feature sets you like in that system? I am already an iphone GPS user (Navigon since it allows for "truck" designation and it has a full set of maps loaded locally rather than like Waze or others that cache maps and could loose data when I have no internet connection...)

Ian

65Streamer · 11-16-2015, 03:25 PM

HD has a cure for Batwings...Willie G's favorite Road Glide because he didn't care for wind disturbance on Batwings. Seriously though, I've never heard of this from any family or friends who ride. Never experienced it on my Road King either. Never had it with any of three higher mileage 250-350 work trucks I used to pull conventional and 5th wheels. See, all sorts of learning ops here on the forum!

IanPoulin · 11-16-2015, 08:41 PM

Quick question to those who've owns both 250 and 350 series - do you have comments as to the difference in the towed vs u towed ride between the two? I'd be concerned the 350 heavier springs may be too hard; for me or for my 28W. I don't want to start popping rivets if I took that route.

2011 Airstream International Serenity 28' - 30a/taupe
2013 Ford F150 v6-ecoboost with max tow and HD payload packages

Moflash · 11-16-2015, 09:14 PM

The f350 rides unloaded no different than a F250 .Loaded it does not squat like a F250 and rides smooth,both trucks have progressive leaf spring packs in the rear and each leaf only comes into play as the weight increases.

I run with a Airsafe hitch on my F350 and would do the same if I ran a F250.
The only time I have popped a rivet by the way was with my 2010 F150 Supercrew that was maxed out on payload.We were on the Gunflint Trail in northern Mn and it is a washboard road .We have returned there many times with the F350 and traveled the same roads without incident pulling the same 28ft International.
Drive both you will see for yourself.

Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

IanPoulin · 11-17-2015, 04:00 AM

Understanding this is only one reply on the ride of F350 vs F250, and there may other replies, it may be worth asking that if the trim packages and internal packages are identical; and the cost differential between F350 and F250 is less than the cost of the chrome packages, why would I ever choose the F250 - if factory ordering?

paiceman · 11-17-2015, 05:21 AM

F250-F350. As posted have had them both in the past three years. No ride difference I can detect when empty, both ride like trucks. Loaded and towing, F350 rides a little better, with heavier rear springs and axle seems to take hitch weight better.

Navigation things I like. Touch, large screen that I can to to radio functions and all sources by touching screen, large rear back up camera, that can be fine tuned to the hitch ball when close to back under, which I do by myself all the time. Touch on screen for all climate functions. All sync functions on the same screen. Weather map and five day forecast on the screen.

Unless Ford has changed all the above for non - nav equipped, the backup camera is a small screen on the rear mirror, which I cannot see any more. And all functions are a little harder to get at on the dash.

Plus I like technology, so anything new and updated I like and enjoy using.

In PA it costs less to register an F250 than it does an F350 each year. But also in PA one can drop down a weight class for registration purposes, so I've done that, however, when they put my weight sticker in the windshield they put in the one ton sticker. So I pay for 3/4 ton but have the one ton sticker. Cost each year would be my only reason.

In 10,000 miles this summer all over the west, side roads, bumpy roads et al we did not pop a rivet that I can find. With the F250 a couple of years ago on a 4,000 mile trip only over nice roads, we popped five interior rivets I could find. Maybe just luck, but so far that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Bud

m.hony · 11-17-2015, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paiceman

Switz, not questioning your wobble on bat wing nor the posts on threads I went to concerning same. Guess I was just lucky, 675,000 registered HD miles in the mileage program, many more prior and the largest percentage with Ultra. Wonder if it's a specific set of circumstances that brings it on or individual bikes only as none of the guys I used to ride with on same type bikes have experienced it either as I questioned them after the posts. Most still ride, I no longer do, figured 50+ years and so many miles luck might catch up to me.

Ride Safe

Bud

I've been riding a 2006 Road King Classic for nearly 10 years. The only wobble I ever got was at 115 mph. I thought it was because the bike with windshield, crash bars, and saddlebags is just simply not designed to go that fast.
A Yamaha R1 has no wobble at 130 mph.

Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

IanPoulin · 11-25-2015, 10:06 AM

Penultimate post for me (I think)...

I decided against the wait to the 2017s -- for a couple of reasons. Mostly the added tech to me is just going to be something else to repair after a while (and like Microsoft or Apple products, I always wait for "service pack 2" before adopting something new.

Mostly though -- if the 2017 F250 inherits the current supercrew f150 cabs, while there would be more legroom in the rear, I would loose considerable hip and shoulder room; which at my height of seven feet is a major negative...

So....

submitted to factory order this morning are the following specs:

F250 4x4 Crew Cab Diesel King Ranch Pickup/156 wheelbase
Bronze Fire/Caribou accent
Adobe interior

18" wheels, All-season tires

HD Radio
Rapid Heat Supplemental heater
Engine Block Heater
Skid Plates
Snow Plow Package
Wheel Well Liners
Splash Guards/Mud Flaps
Upfitter switches
dual alternators
stowable bed extender
tailgate step
tough ben spray in bedliner
cable lock
heated rear seat
3.55 electronic diff

King ranch is normal, not premium: seats, floor mats, cab steps with lights, navi systyem, memory group, remote start and universal garage door opener, 40/console/40 seating.

Jekerrville · 11-26-2015, 07:28 AM

NICE RIDE!
You will really enjoy your F-250. If Ford puts the smaller fuel tank on your configuration, have the dealership install a 50 gal tank. It's a direct replacement for the under side unit. It DOES NOT change warranty.

The dealership can reconfigure the fuel system to understand the larger capacity so the fuel management system will report correctly. Simple program setting.

I used Transfer Flow tank because the skid plate and tank are one unit and very strong. (Does not dent or rust)

Congratulations. If you are married, don't let your wife drive it. You will never get it back.

Happy Trails.

pappy19 · 11-26-2015, 08:06 AM

Don't forget the spare tire, otherwise you will get just a rim. Did you not consider the moon roof? I also did the Transferflow replacement, but mine is gas. Yours being a diesel, with that much volume, you should use one of the additives to maintain the diesel quality. Great list of options BTW.

IanPoulin · 11-26-2015, 09:11 AM

Pappy - not having a moonroof was one of the requisites. I am seven foot in height so cannot drive any vehicle with a sun or moon roofs :-P

2011 Airstream International Serenity 28' - 30a/taupe
2013 Ford F150 v6-ecoboost with max tow and HD payload packages

helwigc · 12-09-2015, 05:27 PM

I just ordered a new F250 3 weeks ago and was debating on 18 or 20 inch wheels.
So I called my tire dealer for advice, and with out hesitation he said to go for the 20 inch wheels that replacement tires would much less expensive.

graysailor · 12-09-2015, 10:14 PM

A little homework will show that 18"ers are somewhat better for towing. The cost difference in negligible.

IanPoulin · 12-10-2015, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by helwigc

I just ordered a new F250 3 weeks ago and was debating on 18 or 20 inch wheels.
So I called my tire dealer for advice, and with out hesitation he said to go for the 20 inch wheels that replacement tires would much less expensive.

odd -- as all my online checks (goodyear, tirerack, etc.) show the 20" tires run about 20-25% more expensive than the 18"rs when working off both lowest and average pricing. *shrug*

Moflash · 12-10-2015, 12:58 PM

20's cost more to replace.$1100 for a set of four mounted and balanced at my Ford dealer.I like the way they look on the truck and they work well for me.I have had them on my last four trucks.

mefly2 · 12-10-2015, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDuke

Just a little over a year ago, I too was specking out a new truck to order. I built two identical trucks, one a 250 and the other a 350. Both I and the dealer was amazed to find that the 350 retailed for only $947.00 more! This quickly became a no-brainer for me. If you ever notice that all the 250's that you see towing or hauling anything heavy are tail-draggers. The 350's have a heavier spring set and rear axle, therefore they don't squat under a load like the 250. The ride difference is hardly noticeable if at all. If you are concerned about the ride when empty, install a set of "Sulastic" rubber spring shackles like I did. My 350 now rides better than a 250. I have the KR and love it. As for wheels you should go with 20". The taller a tire is in overall height, the better it will ride. The larger diameter tire does not fall into holes or ripples as deep as a smaller diameter tire does. Also the 20" tire has a shorter sidewall, which is where most of your sway comes from. The 20" tires also last longer, not as many RPM's. If you look at the resale values of used 250's and compare them to 350's, you will see a difference of somewhere between two and three times the initial difference. I always look and think about resale when I buy because I like to trade quite often. Whenever my wife and I are traveling, I can always tell the difference between a 250 and 350 because of their attitude difference when towing or hauling. Around here the farmers which are pulling or hauling something most of the time never buy a 250 nor would I, especially after finding out the difference in cost. Just my "two dollars worth!" Yeah I know, but the way I see it, my opinions are worth more!

Please explain because AFIK the circumference of the 18/19/20 are all the same ... ???

bbdo · 12-10-2015, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDuke

Just a little over a year ago, I too was specking out a new truck to order. I built two identical trucks, one a 250 and the other a 350. Both I and the dealer was amazed to find that the 350 retailed for only $947.00 more! This quickly became a no-brainer for me. If you ever notice that all the 250's that you see towing or hauling anything heavy are tail-draggers. The 350's have a heavier spring set and rear axle, therefore they don't squat under a load like the 250. The ride difference is hardly noticeable if at all. If you are concerned about the ride when empty, install a set of "Sulastic" rubber spring shackles like I did. My 350 now rides better than a 250. I have the KR and love it. As for wheels you should go with 20". The taller a tire is in overall height, the better it will ride. The larger diameter tire does not fall into holes or ripples as deep as a smaller diameter tire does. Also the 20" tire has a shorter sidewall, which is where most of your sway comes from. The 20" tires also last longer, not as many RPM's. If you look at the resale values of used 250's and compare them to 350's, you will see a difference of somewhere between two and three times the initial difference. I always look and think about resale when I buy because I like to trade quite often. Whenever my wife and I are traveling, I can always tell the difference between a 250 and 350 because of their attitude difference when towing or hauling. Around here the farmers which are pulling or hauling something most of the time never buy a 250 nor would I, especially after finding out the difference in cost. Just my "two dollars worth!" Yeah I know, but the way I see it, my opinions are worth more!

The axles are the same on the 250 and 350. the spring pack is different as is the legal GVWR. The legal GVWR matters for commercial haulers, not us RV'rs so that higher GVWR is meaningful. Otherwise, spot on!

TheDuke · 12-12-2015, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mefly2

Please explain because AFIK the circumference of the 18/19/20 are all the same ... ???

Okay, once again with "just the facts!" According to Michelin, the specs for the LTX MS2 tires, which is what I have and was referring to on my 2015 F-350 KR, the circumference of the LT 275-65R 20 is 34.1" with a RPM of 610. The circumference of the same tire in a LT 275-70R 18 is 32.1" with a RPM of 627. That is the reason that I said what I said and that is also the reason that when you order a new F-350 with 18" tires the standard rear axle ratio is a 3.31 and if you order 20" tires the standard rear axle ratio is a 3.55. That makes up for the difference in circumference difference in the two different tire sizes, thus effectively giving them the same tow rating, comparable speed and RPM. They don't make a 19" in this tire, therefore I can't quote you those numbers. Does that do it for you?

TheDuke · 12-12-2015, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbdo

The axles are the same on the 250 and 350. the spring pack is different as is the legal GVWR. The legal GVWR matters for commercial haulers, not us RV'rs so that higher GVWR is meaningful. Otherwise, spot on!

According to my buddy "master technician" at my Ford dealer ship, there is a difference in the F-350 and F-250 front and rear axles. The ring and pinion set in the rear is different and the axle shafts are larger in both front and rear as is the springs. I don't think that by adding one leaf in the rear springs they could increase the GVWR by 2500 lbs. And yes, the higher GVWR matters to "anyone" looking for the more durable and longer lasting truck, such as myself. Many RV'rs overload their trucks!