F150 or 2017 F250 or 2018 F150 Diesel?

[nipperguy]

Enterprise Truck Rental rents Ford and Ram 3/4 trucks at reasonable rates and allows you to tow. May be worth $100 to help you decide.

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by wponder

I will try and get another link out of it today. That would be 7 from the top. 6 from the top has quite a bit of bow in the bars. 7 could be tough, 6 is pretty tough I might not even be able to torque 6 and I am pretty strong. In general, I have to work it to get there usually playing with the pivot of the truck and trailer combined with getting one side set. Then the other, then going back to the original and trying to get one more link out of it, then back to the other to match.

I think the challenge with dropping down a hole is I would have to flip the hitch and put it on the top two holes. I had it that way when I picked it up and it was way to low and would drag even the slightest dip in the ground.

Here is the sticker for the max axel weight off the door. What concerned me at the last weigh in was how far over the drive axel was. Not sure if its possible I did not line up right on the scale.

Are you raising the front of the Airstream with the tongue jack before connecting the bars? I use a 1500# set of bars on a 15000# car hauler and can get the 11th link from the loose end in the slot. To get 11 links, I back the rear tires of the truck (with trailer attached) onto 4" high blocks, then raise the tongue jack on the utility trailer as far as possible before connecting the bars with a 30" 3/4" drive breaker bar. Both the car hauler and my Airstream handle great with the 11th link in the slot and 1-1/2 links under tension exposed under the latches. I do the same lift procedure to remove the bars! Be careful with that spring load when connecting and disconnecting the bars.

[AirMiles]

I just looked at your axle weights. You definitely need to crank more links into your Blue Ox to get below your drive axle rating. The crinkled scale ticket looks correct. The other one looks like you had the Airstream's front axle on your drive axle scale. You need to keep both Airstream axles on the third section of the scale. With my 25', I have to stop a little short to make sure the Airstream axles stay on the third section. At the scale, I jump out of the truck, push the talk button, and jump back into the truck to speak with the scale operator.

[MarkFinATX]

Always a spirited discussion. I had two friends that both had over 10 years experience with the Hensley. Love the hitch- steep learning curve.
So, first truck/trailer combo was a 2015, F-150, Lariat, Super Crew, short box, 5.0 L V-8 gasser and a 2016, 22 ft. Sport FB. It did sway occasionally but the F-150 anti-sway would recover immediately. Less than 6 months later we saw the Pendleton and just fell in love with it. Took delivery in April 2016 and added the HAHA. Again- it takes some practice hooking up but it's fantastic on the road.
I tried to keep the Goodyear Marathons at 65 mph max. But with the 16" Michelin LT's I feel comfortable cruising at 70, or more if that's the posted speed limit. Now, having pulled the Pendleton 15 K miles I give the overall setup a B+. At some point I've got to get to the scales. Have the CAT app and it only takes a few minutes.
Phase III: kept the 150 and just bought a 2017, F-250, 6.7 Turbo Diesel. ARE topper instead of the tonneau cover, pull out bed and Line X spray on bed liner again.
Just turned 1200 miles and am ready to tow!!! I ordered a Hensley hitch bar with a 6" drop but am keeping the 4" for the F-150.
The diesel 3/4 and 1 ton trucks always seem to be touted as the better TV. I'll let ya'all know once I've pulled a fully loaded (7500 lbs) 28 footer through the mountains.

[Jerry-rig]

Hi,

Keep the F150. I have almost an identical set up: F150 V6 3.5 Ecoboost 4x4 Supercrew with tow package, an AS International Serenity 25' FB and Blue Ox hitch with anti sway bars. The truck works great. I also get 10-13 mpg when towing, but I get 22-23 mpg when not towing so it's reasonably economical.

I do feel it when passed by semi or the wind blast when I pass one. I think that's going to be normal no matter what tow vehicle you use. Like uncle_bob said, it's going to feel a bit weird when you first start towing.

But do make sure your anti sway bars are really tight. I hitch up my trailer and then use the jack to jack up the trailer which lifts the rear end of the truck pretty high. That's when I install and cinch down the anti sway bars. Then I lower the jack and I can see a slight bow in the sway bars. That's the process I use. Hope it helps.

[turk123]

Hi wponder

I’m “pondering” the same issue, but in my case, I’ve made the decision to move up. I currently have a 2016 Platinum f-150 that I bought before I bought the Airstream. The AS is a 2017 FB international that is 28’ long.

My current impression of the towing is mixed. Grant you, my trailer is larger than your so keep that in mind.

My experience so far is the pulling power of the EcoBoost 6 cylinder is amazing! The F-150 has all the power needed to get it down the highway fast. The issue is with the high RPM’s it generates to get it going. To me, it really overworks the engine, but I’m sure it is within limits. I keep thinking just how fast the twin turbos are really moving!

The issues I was most concerned with is when “tow” is selected and when using the engine braking. On a downhill run, the f-150 has literally little engine braking. Just doesn’t have the compression. As you tap the brake or use the brake to slow yourself, the gear gets lower and lower and the RPMs get to 5000 real quick. It makes the tow mode a bit difficult to use.

My truck is the Platinum edition. The first thing I had to replace was the passenger tires that it came with. That helped a lot with the sway from side to side of the truck. With all the “goodies” you get with this truck, it brought the payload down to 1600 lbs. I understand that is “not bad” for this truck, but certainly not over the 2000 lb mark of the lower models.

The truck and trailer suffer from a small bit of tractor trailer pull when a truck passes. I know this is actually the truck's air pushing on the trailer and the wheels turning toward the truck but it happens and it is noticeable, but not that annoying after you get used to it.

Fully loaded (trailer & truck) and my front end is up maybe ¾” from the back of the truck. I have an Equalizer hitch and though I thought I had it corrected (truck was empty) it still could use a tweak. Just mentioning this in case someone chimes in to have me check the hitch.

Other circumstances: I put about 30,000 miles on a truck each year. When I begin to travel, it could be more. I’ve been selling my trucks every 4 years upgrading to new. The new f-250 diesel is expensive. My thought process here is to extend my loan from 4 to 5 years and to keep the diesel for 6+ years (depending on reliability) and in doing so justifying the additional cost to own a diesel and providing my trailer with the safest vehicle I could practically buy. The 250’s (gas or diesel) is hands down more solid, stable, powerful and will hold more payload. Think about that on the next 9-hour jaunt across the country. My trips in the F-150 with the 28 footer, were uneventful and just fine, but I was exhausted with the attention that was needed over a long span of even 6 hours. You just have to pay attention and be a bit more careful with passing, on ramps, braking, and passing trucks. I don’t want to be labeled a truck snob, but my thinking here is, get the right vehicle for the job. The 250 will do a better job. Some may say “Why stop there”? Get a 350 or a 450. Get duelers. That just becomes overkill and I’m not sure will improve the experience.

If I could not afford to make the change, I would not move up. The F-150 Eco still is a very good truck and will out perform many of the tow vehicles being used by Airstreamers.

As an after thought, the F-250 short bed is actually 6 ¾’ long adding more storage than my Platinum’s 5 ½’ bed.

I got a good trade on the 150 and ordered the 250 platinum a few days ago. There will be a significant rebate from Ford in Oct. (Now it’s: $1500 +$1000 bed accessories and $750 using ford financing for 3 months, plus my dealer is at about $4300 off the retail). Not bad and it will get better. The new 2018 can be ordered in about a week. They are the same truck. I ordered mine 4 days ago and they will be building it as 2017. Funny.

[wponder]

Yea, if I worked on getting a private cash certificate. I know I could get a great deal on a 17 250. I had a 350 King Ranch and my better 1/2 talked me into trading for the 150 and then 2 years later wanted the Airstream and going almost full time in it. So, everything you have written is what i'm wrestling with. :/

[wponder]

@airmiles!!!! Huge help and major thanks!!! Ok, lifting the tongue jack is the ticket. I easily got it on the eighth link. I think I could have gotten more if I used a bigger block under it or put the wheels on some lynx blocks. 8 links leaves 3 1/2.

Ran up to the scale... lucky its only 2 miles away Attached is the new weight. Now, I was one person and a dog short and maybe 200lb of gear short. That would put me close to the last weight and I was also about 1/2 a 1/4 tank of gas shy.

Now... I assume when you release them you do NOT extend it all the way? Seems it lifts the truck and puts as much tension on them.

[AirMiles]

Originally Posted by wponder

@airmiles!!!! Huge help and major thanks!!! Ok, lifting the tongue jack is the ticket. I easily got it on the eighth link. I think I could have gotten more if I used a bigger block under it or put the wheels on some lynx blocks. 8 links leaves 3 1/2.

Ran up to the scale... lucky its only 2 miles away Attached is the new weight. Now, I was one person and a dog short and maybe 200lb of gear short. That would put me close to the last weight and I was also about 1/2 a 1/4 tank of gas shy.

Now... I assume when you release them you do NOT extend it all the way? Seems it lifts the truck and puts as much tension on them.

I release my bars in the same configuration as when I connected them. Up on blocks if blocks needed to connect. There's a lot of energy stored up in those deflected bars!

[wponder]

Airmiles. I just read that you do the same thing to remove the bars. I will need to play with that and see how it goes. At first they were intimidating so I will need to just relearn it.

[AirMiles]

Now, looking at the scale ticket, I'd say to grab that ninth link and weigh it again. It only costs $2. I'll bet the front and rear axle weights will be close to even and believe it will ride even better than at 8. Nice to see your drive axle below its weight rating!

And thanks for acknowledging my assistance. I enjoy helping others dial in their Blue Ox with a few suggestions on my part. All weight distribution hitches need tweaking. I tweak mine often for weight changes in my rig and to just test different settings. Then I use the information learned to help others.

Good travels with your rig. I think you'll be impressed with how it handles now that you can crank those bars!

[wponder]

Piece of cake. Popped them right off. That is NIGHT and DAY different than what I have been doing.

[AirMiles]

Great! Test drive it both ways with 8 and 9 links and run it whichever way gives you the best feel. My experience has always been that more links are better than less.

[turk123]

wponder

If that f-150 is platinum white, I have a Leer cap with all the bells and whistles I'll sell you!! My cost was $3500. I'd be half of that!

[Pat Pierce]

We tow the 2016 27' Serenity front twins with the 2016 F150 Lariat 3.5L Ecoboost, max tow package, 3.55 axle and Blue Ox. About 11,000 miles towing so far.

Our friends love riding in our F150. We do too- it's just a great truck around town and on the road.

When picking up the new trailer, during the 2 hour dealer walk-through, the fellow scared us when it came to connecting the Blue Ox. To the tune of "are you paying attention (I was), because if not, you could be injured or the trailer also!" Geez. As a result, we were scared and very cautious, but after the first year, have become more comfortable, though we still have fear residual. Replacing the Blue Ox handle with a 18"long, ½" breaker bar and the long neck 1" socket has made things much better.

Presently, we find that 3 and ½ links visible above the end of the tension rod seems to feel good, better than the 4 and ½ links we started with. After reading these threads, I may try to get to 2 and ½ links using a thicker block under the tongue jack. Maybe even a 24" breaker bar...

Our truck is totally fine pulling our trailer in all respects. Most of the time, I almost forget we are pulling something.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by wponder

I have read many threads on this and have a good sense of the general feeling which seems split. F150 is plenty for towing an AS but if you want more assurance / confident towing go F250.

I am still stuck. We have a 2015 F150 Lariat 3.5 Ecoboost, 4x4 we only owe 14K on it. It just turned 20K miles. We have a 2016 International Serenity 25FB that we just got and have towed it over 2000 miles so far from Los Angeles, AZ, UT, ID and WA. We have a 1500 Blue Ox on it. The F150 has the HD Tow Package so top of the payload range, Max Combined and Max Trailer weight.

When we picked it up we had a decent amount of stuff for setting things up and weighed in at 12120 combined. After loading it up to prob 95% of where we typically will be we weighed in at 12420 combined.

I feel 90% confident towing it. It's feels a little loose when its really windy and when passing / being passed by semi's. Stopping is decent. Been avg. 10 - 13 mpg but it can suck the gas on the bigger climbs.

Been considering stepping up to a 250. It would gain a couple 1000 in most areas but its seems close. Then I saw a 150 Diesel is coming. I owned a 350 before the 150. I did not mind the drive except the bouncing on some highways and the turning. So, I am torn if we should just stick with the F150 and run it till we cant anymore.

Thoughts?

Thanks

The Combinations pulled by my parents and grandparents were in this range. Heavier, actually. Used cars like everyone else.

Changing to a TV that has worse handling, braking and steering is the wrong direction.

As others have mentioned. Better lash up. See three pass Scale method. Get a numerical baseline for reference. The devil is in the details.

A VPP style hitch will take the thing in the direction you want. Same for trailer disc brakes.

If you just have to change, a Ford Expedition or Dodge Durango would be better in every role. A Dodge Charger better yet.

[KWN306]

We have a 2016 F159 Super Cab with a 6.5' bed, 3.5 Eco Boost and a 3.55 axle with the max tow package.

Started pulling a 23 FB International, averaged 13 mpg. I installed Firestone Air Bags because the truck sagged to much.

We updated to a 2017 30" FC with a new hitch and besides only getting 8 to 9 mpg the tail was wagging the dog and I wasn't crazy about the braking ability.

I bit the bullet and purchased a Pro Pride 1400# hitch. It took care of the tail wagging the dog issues, the truck appeared to brake a bit better but still was getting 8 - 9 mpg.

We plan on traveling the country when the wife retires in just over a year and I feel the F150 was under sized to pull the 30' FC through the US and Canadian Rockies.

I bit the bullet again and purchased a very low mileage 2010 Chevy 2500 HD with 6.0 and 3.73 rear. Pulls like a champ, I get 14 mpg empty and 12 mpg pulling and it really stops well and no tail wagging.

I'll be selling my F150 with 14K soon.

[LBowls]

My CAT scale tickets show similar weights as yours with 12,980 total weight. Also, my 2017 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with factory tow package, is set up with an Equal-i-zer 12000# hitch. My truck pulls with surprising ease and sway is totally under control. Yes there is a certain amount of buffeting due to wind gusts and passing semis, but it has been minimal. I love this combo and would not do anything different. As mentioned by others, perhaps there is a need for a hitch adjustment or even a different hitch setup, but I wouldn't think a new F250 truck change is the answer. Keep your truck, and money.

[m.hony]

The buffeting from the wind actually seems worse in just the truck alone without the trailer...

[gypsydad]

Lots of good advice here (again). I towed 2 different 25's for 5 years with my 2012 Platinum 4x4 short bed F150 EB with no real issues. I had the 1000# bars and the tongue weight was at 800# loaded. Not sure the 1500# bars are needed, but others may want to argue that point. Blue-Ox said 1000# were recommended for that weight envelope. I had 3.5 links showing, which is what they recommended. Also, when hooked up, front/rear of AS were within 1/2", which is also important. I put 125K miles on the F150 and MPG was same as your getting. I feel the EB works well with this set up.

Fast forward...We moved up to a 28' Twin in June and got an F250 6.7Diesel 4x4 King Ranch with 6.5bed. I loved the new F150 EB and actually took one home for 24 hours and love the new torque, 10speed, etc. After several discussions with wife on our needs, we decided the F250 would be better long term decision for us, plus the 17' model has a much improved ride over previous years of this 3/4T. We got a great trade and price in Austin, on the F250. Payload is almost 2400# which is fine for our needs. Hitch weight on the 28' is 1100# loaded; Blue Ox recommended the 1500# bars which are working out fine now that I have them dialed in. 4 1/2 links showing. Hitching up is more involved then with my F150 due to height difference, but I use the power jack and have not had any real issues; Airmiles tips may help; have not tried the blocks. I did get a Craftsman 3/4" drive breaker bar on Amazon along with a 1" socket and I use that instead of the wrench supplied by BO. It works much better with the extra leverage.

My experience over past 4 months, (12,500 miles) pulling the 28' with the F250 has been great, once you get used to the extra size difference of both F250 and pulling a 2' longer and heavier trailer. The power and stability is noticeable. What is very useful and makes pulling much easier is the F250 engine systems allow for setting the cruise control and engine break on Automatic; I go up and down the 7-8% grades at a set speed with out having to hit the brakes. This is a big difference over our F150 pulling the 25's. I was always concerned about steep hills and the brakes even in tow haul, which I always use. Mileage with the F250 pulling averages 13 to 13.3mpg; 15-16mpg without pulling. Mind you, I am up in the Rockies this summer so lots of hills; I am told by several owners it will improve when I am back in TX. We shall see...
I have had 2 oil changes now; 7500 miles cost $100; 12500 with fuel filters cost $300, so the maintenance costs are higher for sure, then my F150. (I had the second service early for the trip back to TX this weekend. We are going to hit Yellowstone, Tetons, New Mexico, and Big Bend.)

Summary: I believe (from my experience) the F150 EB and a 25' is a great match up. Great TV and many owners are happy with this combination, as we were. (easier to park and great daily driver also)

The new F250 for our needs was a great choice. We love the retractable running boards on ours; it is easier to get into vs the fixed running boards. The 7 cameras, lane change assistance, and all the new creature features are nice...we are happy