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Old 09-07-2017, 01:34 PM   #29
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@airmiles!!!! Huge help and major thanks!!! Ok, lifting the tongue jack is the ticket. I easily got it on the eighth link. I think I could have gotten more if I used a bigger block under it or put the wheels on some lynx blocks. 8 links leaves 3 1/2.

Ran up to the scale... lucky its only 2 miles away Attached is the new weight. Now, I was one person and a dog short and maybe 200lb of gear short. That would put me close to the last weight and I was also about 1/2 a 1/4 tank of gas shy.

Now... I assume when you release them you do NOT extend it all the way? Seems it lifts the truck and puts as much tension on them.
I release my bars in the same configuration as when I connected them. Up on blocks if blocks needed to connect. There's a lot of energy stored up in those deflected bars!
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Old 09-07-2017, 01:38 PM   #30
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Airmiles. I just read that you do the same thing to remove the bars. I will need to play with that and see how it goes. At first they were intimidating so I will need to just relearn it.
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Old 09-07-2017, 01:41 PM   #31
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Now, looking at the scale ticket, I'd say to grab that ninth link and weigh it again. It only costs $2. I'll bet the front and rear axle weights will be close to even and believe it will ride even better than at 8. Nice to see your drive axle below its weight rating!

And thanks for acknowledging my assistance. I enjoy helping others dial in their Blue Ox with a few suggestions on my part. All weight distribution hitches need tweaking. I tweak mine often for weight changes in my rig and to just test different settings. Then I use the information learned to help others.

Good travels with your rig. I think you'll be impressed with how it handles now that you can crank those bars!
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Old 09-07-2017, 01:48 PM   #32
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Piece of cake. Popped them right off. That is NIGHT and DAY different than what I have been doing.
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Old 09-07-2017, 01:55 PM   #33
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Great! Test drive it both ways with 8 and 9 links and run it whichever way gives you the best feel. My experience has always been that more links are better than less.
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Old 09-07-2017, 02:06 PM   #34
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wponder

If that f-150 is platinum white, I have a Leer cap with all the bells and whistles I'll sell you!! My cost was $3500. I'd be half of that!
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Old 09-07-2017, 04:53 PM   #35
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Nearly identical

We tow the 2016 27' Serenity front twins with the 2016 F150 Lariat 3.5L Ecoboost, max tow package, 3.55 axle and Blue Ox. About 11,000 miles towing so far.

Our friends love riding in our F150. We do too- it's just a great truck around town and on the road.

When picking up the new trailer, during the 2 hour dealer walk-through, the fellow scared us when it came to connecting the Blue Ox. To the tune of "are you paying attention (I was), because if not, you could be injured or the trailer also!" Geez. As a result, we were scared and very cautious, but after the first year, have become more comfortable, though we still have fear residual. Replacing the Blue Ox handle with a 18"long, " breaker bar and the long neck 1" socket has made things much better.

Presently, we find that 3 and links visible above the end of the tension rod seems to feel good, better than the 4 and links we started with. After reading these threads, I may try to get to 2 and links using a thicker block under the tongue jack. Maybe even a 24" breaker bar...

Our truck is totally fine pulling our trailer in all respects. Most of the time, I almost forget we are pulling something.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:26 PM   #36
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I have read many threads on this and have a good sense of the general feeling which seems split. F150 is plenty for towing an AS but if you want more assurance / confident towing go F250.

I am still stuck. We have a 2015 F150 Lariat 3.5 Ecoboost, 4x4 we only owe 14K on it. It just turned 20K miles. We have a 2016 International Serenity 25FB that we just got and have towed it over 2000 miles so far from Los Angeles, AZ, UT, ID and WA. We have a 1500 Blue Ox on it. The F150 has the HD Tow Package so top of the payload range, Max Combined and Max Trailer weight.

When we picked it up we had a decent amount of stuff for setting things up and weighed in at 12120 combined. After loading it up to prob 95% of where we typically will be we weighed in at 12420 combined.

I feel 90% confident towing it. It's feels a little loose when its really windy and when passing / being passed by semi's. Stopping is decent. Been avg. 10 - 13 mpg but it can suck the gas on the bigger climbs.

Been considering stepping up to a 250. It would gain a couple 1000 in most areas but its seems close. Then I saw a 150 Diesel is coming. I owned a 350 before the 150. I did not mind the drive except the bouncing on some highways and the turning. So, I am torn if we should just stick with the F150 and run it till we cant anymore.

Thoughts?

Thanks
The Combinations pulled by my parents and grandparents were in this range. Heavier, actually. Used cars like everyone else.

Changing to a TV that has worse handling, braking and steering is the wrong direction.

As others have mentioned. Better lash up. See three pass Scale method. Get a numerical baseline for reference. The devil is in the details.

A VPP style hitch will take the thing in the direction you want. Same for trailer disc brakes.

If you just have to change, a Ford Expedition or Dodge Durango would be better in every role. A Dodge Charger better yet.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:01 PM   #37
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We have a 2016 F159 Super Cab with a 6.5' bed, 3.5 Eco Boost and a 3.55 axle with the max tow package.

Started pulling a 23 FB International, averaged 13 mpg. I installed Firestone Air Bags because the truck sagged to much.

We updated to a 2017 30" FC with a new hitch and besides only getting 8 to 9 mpg the tail was wagging the dog and I wasn't crazy about the braking ability.

I bit the bullet and purchased a Pro Pride 1400# hitch. It took care of the tail wagging the dog issues, the truck appeared to brake a bit better but still was getting 8 - 9 mpg.

We plan on traveling the country when the wife retires in just over a year and I feel the F150 was under sized to pull the 30' FC through the US and Canadian Rockies.

I bit the bullet again and purchased a very low mileage 2010 Chevy 2500 HD with 6.0 and 3.73 rear. Pulls like a champ, I get 14 mpg empty and 12 mpg pulling and it really stops well and no tail wagging.

I'll be selling my F150 with 14K soon.
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:53 AM   #38
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My CAT scale tickets show similar weights as yours with 12,980 total weight. Also, my 2017 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with factory tow package, is set up with an Equal-i-zer 12000# hitch. My truck pulls with surprising ease and sway is totally under control. Yes there is a certain amount of buffeting due to wind gusts and passing semis, but it has been minimal. I love this combo and would not do anything different. As mentioned by others, perhaps there is a need for a hitch adjustment or even a different hitch setup, but I wouldn't think a new F250 truck change is the answer. Keep your truck, and money.
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:29 AM   #39
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The buffeting from the wind actually seems worse in just the truck alone without the trailer...
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:17 AM   #40
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F150 vs F250 for 25'

Lots of good advice here (again). I towed 2 different 25's for 5 years with my 2012 Platinum 4x4 short bed F150 EB with no real issues. I had the 1000# bars and the tongue weight was at 800# loaded. Not sure the 1500# bars are needed, but others may want to argue that point. Blue-Ox said 1000# were recommended for that weight envelope. I had 3.5 links showing, which is what they recommended. Also, when hooked up, front/rear of AS were within 1/2", which is also important. I put 125K miles on the F150 and MPG was same as your getting. I feel the EB works well with this set up.

Fast forward...We moved up to a 28' Twin in June and got an F250 6.7Diesel 4x4 King Ranch with 6.5bed. I loved the new F150 EB and actually took one home for 24 hours and love the new torque, 10speed, etc. After several discussions with wife on our needs, we decided the F250 would be better long term decision for us, plus the 17' model has a much improved ride over previous years of this 3/4T. We got a great trade and price in Austin, on the F250. Payload is almost 2400# which is fine for our needs. Hitch weight on the 28' is 1100# loaded; Blue Ox recommended the 1500# bars which are working out fine now that I have them dialed in. 4 1/2 links showing. Hitching up is more involved then with my F150 due to height difference, but I use the power jack and have not had any real issues; Airmiles tips may help; have not tried the blocks. I did get a Craftsman 3/4" drive breaker bar on Amazon along with a 1" socket and I use that instead of the wrench supplied by BO. It works much better with the extra leverage.

My experience over past 4 months, (12,500 miles) pulling the 28' with the F250 has been great, once you get used to the extra size difference of both F250 and pulling a 2' longer and heavier trailer. The power and stability is noticeable. What is very useful and makes pulling much easier is the F250 engine systems allow for setting the cruise control and engine break on Automatic; I go up and down the 7-8% grades at a set speed with out having to hit the brakes. This is a big difference over our F150 pulling the 25's. I was always concerned about steep hills and the brakes even in tow haul, which I always use. Mileage with the F250 pulling averages 13 to 13.3mpg; 15-16mpg without pulling. Mind you, I am up in the Rockies this summer so lots of hills; I am told by several owners it will improve when I am back in TX. We shall see...
I have had 2 oil changes now; 7500 miles cost $100; 12500 with fuel filters cost $300, so the maintenance costs are higher for sure, then my F150. (I had the second service early for the trip back to TX this weekend. We are going to hit Yellowstone, Tetons, New Mexico, and Big Bend.)

Summary: I believe (from my experience) the F150 EB and a 25' is a great match up. Great TV and many owners are happy with this combination, as we were. (easier to park and great daily driver also)

The new F250 for our needs was a great choice. We love the retractable running boards on ours; it is easier to get into vs the fixed running boards. The 7 cameras, lane change assistance, and all the new creature features are nice...we are happy
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:32 AM   #41
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IMHO, your rig seems well balanced as is and with the 25' AS you most likely aren't experiencing any " tail wagging the dog " issues so I for one would stick with it. Especially since you have such a low miles on it.
However if you have a hankering for a new toy I second the motion for the F-250 Diesel. There is never and overkill when it comes to pickups and toys :-).
One item you might consider is your shocks.
I towed a 30' AS with an F-150 Eco for three years and it was a challenge. One thing that eventually improved things significantly was when I swapped out the factory shocks with Bilsteins all the way around. Someone else noted that as well.
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Old 09-09-2017, 08:21 AM   #42
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Its all about payload limits

I am newer to this forum as my wife and I were comtemplating either a 25FB or 23CB (23D). After running this Ford weight calculator PDF tool I could not get 25FB to work with a 2.7L F-150 Ecoboost with Tow Package due to payload limitations (1573lbs). We are going with the 23CB since I can safely factor in everything (payload, hitch weight, trailer weight and cargo, etc,etc). We like the 23CB anyway the best.

The calculator can be found here posted by a Ford dealer. SUPER HELPFUL TOOL. You can download it too and then print/save your results.

http://www.diehlford.com/images/pdf/...s-in-Stock.pdf
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