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Minnie's Mate · 10-13-2006, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

yeah its hard to pay to fill the two I have now, 40 gallons or so.

My '05 F-250 holds about 29 gallons and I have been filling up every Friday for the past few months. Since diesel has come down to a mere

$2.49 in my area, I can now fill her up for under $70 each week. (It's not quite on empty when I fill her up.) That's better than the $84+ during the summer!

Then you add to that my wife goes through about 24-25 gallons of regular gasoline per week in her Expedition and we go way over the $100/week

just in gasoline to go to work and run our errands on week ends.

ALANSD · 10-13-2006, 09:35 AM

I think mine is Four wheel anti lock - if that is the quesiton above. I checked the connections last night, tried some cleaning of the contacts on the top of the pumpkin. Not sure if that will help, as i did not drive it today.
I wold be ok to disconnect the abs if it didn't throw a light and code on every time after that.

Minnie's Mate · 10-13-2006, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

I think mine is Four wheel anti lock - if that is the quesiton above. I checked the connections last night, tried some cleaning of the contacts on the top of the pumpkin. Not sure if that will help, as i did not drive it today.
I wold be ok to disconnect the abs if it didn't throw a light and code on every time after that.

My '95 F-150 has rear wheel only anti-lock brakes. My truck looks just like yours does. Entirely posible that Ford upgraded in '96 or '97. I never understood why a truck manufacturer would put abs on the rear wheels only. There were a couple of occassions when I needed abs and the front wheels locked.

BTW, the abs on mine, per the Ford service tech, works only when the bed comes up suddenly as in an emergency stop when the nose or the truck dives. This makes no sence since you might have some load in the rear that would prevent the rear from coming up and the rear wheels still lock. The first time my rear wheels locked were in a light rain on a down hill slope near Perimeter Mall when the light changed. Because of the slope of the road, the rear didn't come up and because of the road film and water, the road was slippery. My rear wheels locked and the rear came around on me a little. The front wheels didn't lock, that time, thankfully. That's when the Ford service tech explained how the Ford truck abs works.

TinShack · 10-13-2006, 03:11 PM

If anybody is interested, here is a link to some photos of the new redesigned 2008 F-250 Superduty trucks. These will have the new 6.4 L PSD available. Should be out the first half of 2007. IMHOP, wait a couple years for Ford to get the bugs worked out.
http://www.leftlanenews.com/2006/09/...0-f-350-f-450/

overlander63 · 10-13-2006, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

I think mine is Four wheel anti lock - if that is the quesiton above. I checked the connections last night, tried some cleaning of the contacts on the top of the pumpkin. Not sure if that will help, as i did not drive it today.
I wold be ok to disconnect the abs if it didn't throw a light and code on every time after that.

Alan, if your truck has 4 wheels ABS (4WAL), you will see wires running to the hubs on the front wheels. If you don't see wires, you have rear wheel ABS (RWAL) only.

ALANSD · 10-14-2006, 05:07 PM

well now that makes a lot of sense. I will look at it. I was thinking with it being a loaded up tow package 4x4 xlt with lots of bells and whistles it wil have 4 wheel abs.
What of disconnecting the back abs? Will it turn on the idiot lights permanently or cause problems? Since I cleaned the contacts the lights are not coming on ..yet.

clancy_boy · 10-14-2006, 05:13 PM

Alan,

Twice in 4 years and soon again I have had to get my rotors turned because of brake wiggle when I apply my brakes. The whole front end shakes. I was told by my dealer that it was because I applied my brakes too hard????? Once he told me I should upgrade to the heaver rotors.

I asked him why.

The truck is a SUPER DUTY F250 - it says so on the side, comes with a tow package - at that cost there should have been the biggest and best brakes on the rig when I bought it. Makes me wonder sometimes....

My 2 cents..... just rambling.....

Minnie's Mate · 10-14-2006, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

well now that makes a lot of sense. I will look at it. I was thinking with it being a loaded up tow package 4x4 xlt with lots of bells and whistles it wil have 4 wheel abs.
What of disconnecting the back abs? Will it turn on the idiot lights permanently or cause problems? Since I cleaned the contacts the lights are not coming on ..yet.

Number of bells and whitles doesn't matter. Mine is XLT also. In '95 RWABS was all that was made by Ford. It may be all that was made in '97.

overlander63 · 10-14-2006, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

What of disconnecting the back abs? Will it turn on the idiot lights permanently or cause problems? Since I cleaned the contacts the lights are not coming on ..yet.

You mean the sensor in the differential? That makes the speedometer works, as well as being a wheel speed sensor for the ABS, and yes, it will turn on the light.

ALANSD · 10-14-2006, 08:17 PM

ok, I was thinking I could disconnect the abs sensor. Guess its not a good idea. The abs itself is not causing a problem, just the light comes on every once in awhile. The rear brakes were a disaster, broken springs, adjusters, and so on. Not sure what caused that. The shoes were in ok shape although metallic, so we scrapped them. The drums scored and were replaced too.
I have read that the sensors give false readings and turn the dash brake/abs light on.

Minnie's Mate · 10-16-2006, 12:57 PM

You may want to have the ABS inspected or at least keep some extra fuses in the truck (forgot what size it takes).

A couple of years ago I hauled a few heavy loads back to back (the only ones I ever hauled anything heavy) and when I got ready to go back for the final load I couldn't get the truck out of park. I got the owners manual down and checked the trouble shooting section and found out the cause was a blown ABS fuse. Turned out that the ABS fuse had blown and that disabled the transmission thingy that unlocks the transmission lock when you press the brake. I had to go to the convenience store and buy a pack of fuses to get the truck out of park! Seems I had over heated the ABS or something.

No other problems with the brakes before or since. In fact, I got 92K miles out of the factory set of front brakes and 142K miles out of the factory rear brakes. All of my driving is highway commuting.

overlander63 · 10-16-2006, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

You may want to have the ABS inspected or at least keep some extra fuses in the truck (forgot what size it takes).

A couple of years ago I hauled a few heavy loads back to back (the only ones I ever hauled anything heavy) and when I got ready to go back for the final load I couldn't get the truck out of park. I got the owners manual down and checked the trouble shooting section and found out the cause was a blown ABS fuse. Turned out that the ABS fuse had blown and that disabled the transmission thingy that unlocks the transmission lock when you press the brake. I had to go to the convenience store and buy a pack of fuses to get the truck out of park! Seems I had over heated the ABS or something.

Next time this happens, and you are fresh out of fuses, do the following things, in this order:
1-turn ignition key off.
2-turn ignition key to the "unlock" position
3-put your foot on the brake pedal
4-move shift lever from "park" to "neutral"
5-start engine
6-drive to auto parts store to get more fuses.
When you get where you are going, you can put the truck back in park, so it doesn't roll away while you are out of it, and just follow those steps to get going again.

SilverGate · 10-16-2006, 07:42 PM

What specific oil do you use?
…………………………………………………………………………………………………….
The Duramax boys are havin’ quite a discussion about their oil….
Synthetic vs. real, brands, wts., products, etc.
Got me thinkin’ what to use at my 1st 5000-mi. oil change.
F-250 PSD manual says 15W-40 for trailer towing…
And should conform to Ford spec WSS-MZC171-D or API CI-4 PLUS.
So now I’d like to know what you use to keep your F-250 happy.
Thanks,
Bill

Minnie's Mate · 10-17-2006, 09:23 AM

The place where I normally get my oil changed used 15W-40. However, they didn't have a clue about the fuel/water seperater and they were over $110 to change oil and oil filter.

My Ford dealer is $72 for oil and filter change so I used them this time. The lable they installed didn't list the oil they used. BTW, they drained the water/fuel seperater as part of the oil change at no additional charge and didn't take any longer on a Saturday morning than my usual place. Guess they have my Diesel business from now on.

ALANSD · 10-17-2006, 09:42 AM

I put in 15-40 Rotella, as advised by a number of owners. I used the best filter I could find, from Napa. Drained the water seperator, lubed the chassis with a hand grease gun, and checked the axles, etc.
After cleaning the contact somewhat on the rear abs sensor, and the area around it the light has been off a few days now.
Filled up with B20 Bio the other day as it got cool on the weekend, too cool for B100.

wahoonc · 10-17-2006, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverGate

What specific oil do you use?
…………………………………………………………………………………………………….
The Duramax boys are havin’ quite a discussion about their oil….
Synthetic vs. real, brands, wts., products, etc.
Got me thinkin’ what to use at my 1st 5000-mi. oil change.
F-250 PSD manual says 15W-40 for trailer towing…
And should conform to Ford spec WSS-MZC171-D or API CI-4 PLUS.
So now I’d like to know what you use to keep your F-250 happy.
Thanks,
Bill

Rotella T 15W-40...we buy it in 55 gallon drums

We have 3 diesel pickups, a back hoe, bulldozer, track hoe, tractor and 3 OTR gravel trucks (I think that's it) that all use Rotella. The engines run the gamut from 4cyl JD to one monster Detroit.

Aaron

overlander63 · 10-17-2006, 10:59 AM

I think I posted this before, I use either Delo 400, or Rotella T, both in 15W40, and a Motorcaft oil filter.

TinShack · 10-17-2006, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

My Ford dealer is $72 for oil and filter change so I used them this time. The lable they installed didn't list the oil they used. BTW, they drained the water/fuel seperater as part of the oil change at no additional charge and didn't take any longer on a Saturday morning than my usual place. Guess they have my Diesel business from now on.

I'm right there with ya Mate. I take mine to the Ford dealer. I took my '06 in for it's scheduled 7500 mile oil change at 5000 miles. Cost me $85 and an hours time for oil change, tire rotation, brake check, battery test, etc.. During the hour I got to cruise the new vehicle lot and check out all the new F250s without salesman chasing after me

ALANSD · 10-19-2006, 05:30 AM

With our big Rally coming up and us supposed to leave tommorow, my truck started acting up this morning. This happened once before, not sure what is going on. The odometer and speedo go off, the inside lights as well. Then it will seem like it does not want to shift out of low. Last time it needed trans flid and that leare dup the odo and light issue. Is this some limp home emergency thing going on?
Figures it would happen this morning after it was running perfectly yesterday.
What will happen now for the Rally I don't know...

May have to be a day visitor on Saturday...use our car with no trailer.

overlander63 · 10-20-2006, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

With our big Rally coming up and us supposed to leave tommorow, my truck started acting up this morning. This happened once before, not sure what is going on. The odometer and speedo go off, the inside lights as well. Then it will seem like it does not want to shift out of low. Last time it needed trans flid and that leare dup the odo and light issue. Is this some limp home emergency thing going on?
Figures it would happen this morning after it was running perfectly yesterday.
What will happen now for the Rally I don't know...

May have to be a day visitor on Saturday...use our car with no trailer.

Alan, make sure the key is fully in the "on" position. As these trucks get some miles on them, the ignition switch tends to be a little stiff, and doesn't return all the way back to "run" after you start it.