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Old 10-14-2006, 06:13 PM   #127
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Don't get me started on BRAKES

Alan,

Twice in 4 years and soon again I have had to get my rotors turned because of brake wiggle when I apply my brakes. The whole front end shakes. I was told by my dealer that it was because I applied my brakes too hard????? Once he told me I should upgrade to the heaver rotors. I asked him why. The truck is a SUPER DUTY F250 - it says so on the side, comes with a tow package - at that cost there should have been the biggest and best brakes on the rig when I bought it. Makes me wonder sometimes....

My 2 cents..... just rambling.....
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Old 10-14-2006, 08:06 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
well now that makes a lot of sense. I will look at it. I was thinking with it being a loaded up tow package 4x4 xlt with lots of bells and whistles it wil have 4 wheel abs.
What of disconnecting the back abs? Will it turn on the idiot lights permanently or cause problems? Since I cleaned the contacts the lights are not coming on ..yet.
Number of bells and whitles doesn't matter. Mine is XLT also. In '95 RWABS was all that was made by Ford. It may be all that was made in '97.
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Old 10-14-2006, 08:11 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
What of disconnecting the back abs? Will it turn on the idiot lights permanently or cause problems? Since I cleaned the contacts the lights are not coming on ..yet.
You mean the sensor in the differential? That makes the speedometer works, as well as being a wheel speed sensor for the ABS, and yes, it will turn on the light.
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Old 10-14-2006, 09:17 PM   #130
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ok, I was thinking I could disconnect the abs sensor. Guess its not a good idea. The abs itself is not causing a problem, just the light comes on every once in awhile. The rear brakes were a disaster, broken springs, adjusters, and so on. Not sure what caused that. The shoes were in ok shape although metallic, so we scrapped them. The drums scored and were replaced too.
I have read that the sensors give false readings and turn the dash brake/abs light on.
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Old 10-16-2006, 01:57 PM   #131
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You may want to have the ABS inspected or at least keep some extra fuses in the truck (forgot what size it takes).

A couple of years ago I hauled a few heavy loads back to back (the only ones I ever hauled anything heavy) and when I got ready to go back for the final load I couldn't get the truck out of park. I got the owners manual down and checked the trouble shooting section and found out the cause was a blown ABS fuse. Turned out that the ABS fuse had blown and that disabled the transmission thingy that unlocks the transmission lock when you press the brake. I had to go to the convenience store and buy a pack of fuses to get the truck out of park! Seems I had over heated the ABS or something.

No other problems with the brakes before or since. In fact, I got 92K miles out of the factory set of front brakes and 142K miles out of the factory rear brakes. All of my driving is highway commuting.
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:48 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
You may want to have the ABS inspected or at least keep some extra fuses in the truck (forgot what size it takes).

A couple of years ago I hauled a few heavy loads back to back (the only ones I ever hauled anything heavy) and when I got ready to go back for the final load I couldn't get the truck out of park. I got the owners manual down and checked the trouble shooting section and found out the cause was a blown ABS fuse. Turned out that the ABS fuse had blown and that disabled the transmission thingy that unlocks the transmission lock when you press the brake. I had to go to the convenience store and buy a pack of fuses to get the truck out of park! Seems I had over heated the ABS or something.
Next time this happens, and you are fresh out of fuses, do the following things, in this order:
1-turn ignition key off.
2-turn ignition key to the "unlock" position
3-put your foot on the brake pedal
4-move shift lever from "park" to "neutral"
5-start engine
6-drive to auto parts store to get more fuses.
When you get where you are going, you can put the truck back in park, so it doesn't roll away while you are out of it, and just follow those steps to get going again.
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:42 PM   #133
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What specific oil do you use?
…………………………………………………………………………………………………….
The Duramax boys are havin’ quite a discussion about their oil….
Synthetic vs. real, brands, wts., products, etc.
Got me thinkin’ what to use at my 1st 5000-mi. oil change.
F-250 PSD manual says 15W-40 for trailer towing…
And should conform to Ford spec WSS-MZC171-D or API CI-4 PLUS.
So now I’d like to know what you use to keep your F-250 happy.
Thanks,
Bill
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:23 AM   #134
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The place where I normally get my oil changed used 15W-40. However, they didn't have a clue about the fuel/water seperater and they were over $110 to change oil and oil filter.

My Ford dealer is $72 for oil and filter change so I used them this time. The lable they installed didn't list the oil they used. BTW, they drained the water/fuel seperater as part of the oil change at no additional charge and didn't take any longer on a Saturday morning than my usual place. Guess they have my Diesel business from now on.
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:42 AM   #135
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I put in 15-40 Rotella, as advised by a number of owners. I used the best filter I could find, from Napa. Drained the water seperator, lubed the chassis with a hand grease gun, and checked the axles, etc.
After cleaning the contact somewhat on the rear abs sensor, and the area around it the light has been off a few days now.
Filled up with B20 Bio the other day as it got cool on the weekend, too cool for B100.
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:16 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverGate
What specific oil do you use?
…………………………………………………………………………………………………….
The Duramax boys are havin’ quite a discussion about their oil….
Synthetic vs. real, brands, wts., products, etc.
Got me thinkin’ what to use at my 1st 5000-mi. oil change.
F-250 PSD manual says 15W-40 for trailer towing…
And should conform to Ford spec WSS-MZC171-D or API CI-4 PLUS.
So now I’d like to know what you use to keep your F-250 happy.
Thanks,
Bill
Rotella T 15W-40...we buy it in 55 gallon drums We have 3 diesel pickups, a back hoe, bulldozer, track hoe, tractor and 3 OTR gravel trucks (I think that's it) that all use Rotella. The engines run the gamut from 4cyl JD to one monster Detroit.

Aaron
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:59 AM   #137
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I think I posted this before, I use either Delo 400, or Rotella T, both in 15W40, and a Motorcaft oil filter.
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Old 10-17-2006, 08:51 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
My Ford dealer is $72 for oil and filter change so I used them this time. The lable they installed didn't list the oil they used. BTW, they drained the water/fuel seperater as part of the oil change at no additional charge and didn't take any longer on a Saturday morning than my usual place. Guess they have my Diesel business from now on.
I'm right there with ya Mate. I take mine to the Ford dealer. I took my '06 in for it's scheduled 7500 mile oil change at 5000 miles. Cost me $85 and an hours time for oil change, tire rotation, brake check, battery test, etc.. During the hour I got to cruise the new vehicle lot and check out all the new F250s without salesman chasing after me
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Old 10-19-2006, 06:30 AM   #139
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Unhappy

With our big Rally coming up and us supposed to leave tommorow, my truck started acting up this morning. This happened once before, not sure what is going on. The odometer and speedo go off, the inside lights as well. Then it will seem like it does not want to shift out of low. Last time it needed trans flid and that leare dup the odo and light issue. Is this some limp home emergency thing going on?
Figures it would happen this morning after it was running perfectly yesterday.
What will happen now for the Rally I don't know...
May have to be a day visitor on Saturday...use our car with no trailer.
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Old 10-20-2006, 12:11 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
With our big Rally coming up and us supposed to leave tommorow, my truck started acting up this morning. This happened once before, not sure what is going on. The odometer and speedo go off, the inside lights as well. Then it will seem like it does not want to shift out of low. Last time it needed trans flid and that leare dup the odo and light issue. Is this some limp home emergency thing going on?
Figures it would happen this morning after it was running perfectly yesterday.
What will happen now for the Rally I don't know...
May have to be a day visitor on Saturday...use our car with no trailer.
Alan, make sure the key is fully in the "on" position. As these trucks get some miles on them, the ignition switch tends to be a little stiff, and doesn't return all the way back to "run" after you start it.
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