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Old 04-12-2013, 07:42 AM   #1
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Equalizer Bars, are they correct for my new tow vehicle?

I have been using 1000 lb bars that came with our hitch when we bought our new 25 ft. Eddie Bauer. We have been towing with a Yukon Hybrid, which has done a good job with it on level highways. It does struggle on grades and will certainly struggle on passes out west. We have ordered a GMC 3/4 ton with a Duramax diesel. We would have rather have had a 1/2 ton, but to get the diesel we wanted we had to upgrade to a 3/4 ton.
Now for the question, do I need to purchase lower capacity bars before I tow my Airstream with the new truck? I have read so many threads about damage to the trailer with heavier tow vehicles and using stiffer bars. Can anyone advise me about this?
Thanks,
Rick
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:46 AM   #2
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IMO, yes. Be prepared....other will disagree. Problem is, EQ does not sell interchangeable bars. IIRC, you can get 6000# head with 600# bars and 10,000# head with 1000# bars. I don't think a 600# head is enough for your AS.

This leaves you with a new hitch setup in your future...again....IMHO.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:07 AM   #3
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What works for us....

2500 06 Burb, HaHa, 1000lb bars.

Best case, try the 1000, set the rig up on the scales, do the "jump" test on the tongue and tow.
If you can get the WD set properly with enough "give" in the rear suspension go for it.

Bob
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:11 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by rperrym View Post
I have been using 1000 lb bars that came with our hitch when we bought our new 25 ft. Eddie Bauer. We have been towing with a Yukon Hybrid, which has done a good job with it on level highways. It does struggle on grades and will certainly struggle on passes out west. We have ordered a GMC 3/4 ton with a Duramax diesel. We would have rather have had a 1/2 ton, but to get the diesel we wanted we had to upgrade to a 3/4 ton.
Now for the question, do I need to purchase lower capacity bars before I tow my Airstream with the new truck? I have read so many threads about damage to the trailer with heavier tow vehicles and using stiffer bars. Can anyone advise me about this?
Thanks,
Rick
Initially use what you have.

Do the "jump" test.

Then make your decision.

My experience says the jump test will fail.

Andy
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #5
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When I upgraded from a Ĺ ton Chevy to a 2500 Chevy, I was told my original 1,000 lb. spring bars are too strong, and I should get 800 or 600 lb. bars. The bars donít bend or spring as they should, and maybe it caused some internal rivets to pop. I have a 25 ft., 2006 Safari, and Iím not sure if 1,000 lb. bars were the true cause of popped rivets.

I asked Andy Thompson of Can-Am RV, and he said I would be alright trying lower-rated bars. I called Easy-Lift, and the tech said it would cost just a few dollars more to get a new assembly. He also suggested I try using one less chain link and measure any differences in heights on the tow vehicle.

So next time I hitch-up Iíll try it with one less chain link, even though it is hard lifting the lever. I was told it is possible to break that steel lifting lever by over stressing it while hitching-up. Is that true? If one less chain link doesnít appear to help, I might just buy a new WD assembly.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:27 AM   #6
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Ok Andy I'll bite what is the jump test. I am assuming you jump on the trailer tongue and look for what?

Perry

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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Initially use what you have.

Do the "jump" test.

Then make your decision.

My experience says the jump test will fail.

Andy
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:25 AM   #7
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I could never get any more than minimal movement with my EQ/100# with the jump test. Virtually none....and I have 850# TW.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:31 AM   #8
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All you have to do is get your 1000lb bars ground down in the middle to the same cross section as the 600lb bars, and then you will have 600lb bars that work with your 10,000lb capacity head. Others on here have done it.

Just measure a set of 600lb bars for their height and width. Take your 1000lb bars to a machine shop and have them grind the middle down to the same dimension. Taper it back to full size over about 8" either direction.

Problem solved, and it won't cost that much to get them ground. You could do it yourself if you have disk grinder. The key is to get it a smooth hour glass shape with no sharp transitions.

Best of luck,
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:34 AM   #9
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Thumbs up Make it easier....

"So next time I hitch-up Iíll try it with one less chain link, even though it is hard lifting the lever. I was told it is possible to break that steel lifting lever by over stressing it while hitching-up. Is that true? If one less chain link doesnít appear to help, I might just buy a new WD assembly."

JS,

If you use the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer, it will be much easier to lock the bars in place.

Bob
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:35 AM   #10
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Who has done it, Jim, and has miles afterword? I have seen it suggested several times, but haven't seen a post of someone actually doing it. I was tempted, until I found my used Hensley.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimGolden View Post
All you have to do is get your 1000lb bars ground down in the middle to the same cross section as the 600lb bars, and then you will have 600lb bars that work with your 10,000lb capacity head. Others on here have done it.
That's me ... I went into uncharted waters and I detailed this for our EQ hitch some time ago when we felt the need for a 3/4 Ton as you have.. Check for my earlier post on just how to do this process and PM if you need further help hints.
It is not as easy as implied above, smooth transitions are essential ... but can be done at home with a good angle grinder; a machine shop project cost will likely take the bite out of the cost of a new hitch at $75+ / hour ...
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:01 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JStanley View Post
...I asked Andy Thompson of Can-Am RV, and he said I would be alright trying lower-rated bars. I called Easy-Lift, and the tech said it would cost just a few dollars more to get a new assembly. He also suggested I try using one less chain link and measure any differences in heights on the tow vehicle.

So next time I hitch-up Iíll try it with one less chain link, even though it is hard lifting the lever...
I am pulling my 2006 25 FB with just a half ton Tundra. When I got the trailer it came with the Equalizer hitch with the 1000 lb bars. I adjusted the head/setup so that everything was level and it worked out for my setup in a way that the hitch was not overly tight or stiff, if that makes any sense. After nearly 10K miles it works fine and I have no popped rivets.

An Equalizer hitch does not have a chain as mentioned above. You can lessen the tension though by adjusting the head and the L brackets and get a similar result to changing which link on the chain you are using.

Make sure you are talking about Equalizer hitches and not "an equalizing hitch".
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:08 AM   #13
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I just had this conversation with my dealer. Their practice is to use a 1000 lb hitch/bars on 25 and larger trailers. My only complaint is about the saddle brackets moving on the frame. The suggested remedy was to disconnect the bars before backing with sharp turns. Next trip is in a few weeks, so we'll see.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:53 AM   #14
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Ok Andy I'll bite what is the jump test. I am assuming you jump on the trailer tongue and look for what?

Perry
Perry.

The "jump" test is done when the trailer and tow vehicle are hooked up, ready for the road.

Get up on the coupler and "jump" up and down.

That will tell you the relative stiffness or softness of the rigging.

To stiff is damaging to the trailer.

Andy
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