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McDave · 11-11-2016, 05:53 PM

I have a 2015 Ford F-250 diesel and a 2014 23' Flying Cloud.

The electrical plug from the trailer to the receptacle on the TV has always worked, but I was informed that it isn't really plugging in, the contacts are just touching each other. The plug goes in far enough for the lock to engage, and I guess this has been enough to hold the contacts together so far. However, the service guy said this was a problem waiting to happen, and I had better do something so that the plug actually plugs in. He suggested prying the clips apart on the female side so the prongs on the male side would go in. He said this was a common problem on Ford trucks. If so, the question has probably already been asked, and I apologize for asking it again. I made some feeble efforts to widen the gap on the female side with a screwdriver, but wasn't successful, and didn't want to break anything by prying harder. What should I do?

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Jim & Susan · 11-11-2016, 06:27 PM

That service guy sounds like a knucklehead. If the brakes and lights on the Airstream work, and the cable keeps securely fastened to the TV, I wouldn't worry about it. Of course, as I always say.......There may be something I'm missing here.

Jim

paiceman · 11-12-2016, 04:37 AM

I agree with Jim & Sue. We have never towed anything, for 40 + years except with Fords. Most recently Ford Super Duties and when the plug goes in and locks onto the cap I am done and satisfied. Never had an issue.

Bud

Naper · 11-12-2016, 05:05 AM

If the plug is in all the way it has to be engaged properly. I would think spreading the female connectors would be the wrong thing to do. Just make sure there is no corrosion and use a little dielectric grease. If you lose connection while driving you will get a warning "Trailer Disconnected" on the instrument panel. Like other have said, I have been driving Ford trucks for years never had a problem.

**GCinSC2** · 11-12-2016, 05:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

That service guy sounds like a knucklehead. .......There may be something I'm missing here.

Jim

I'm siding with Jim and others.

Any lights not working?
Brakes truly working?
Plug and connections clean, free of obvious corrosion and not pitted from arcing?

I do not ignore this critical connection. I've replaced the plug on my trailer and keep it covered, a light bit of dielectric grease and make sure its locked in.

Sounds like verging on fix it until its broke.

HowieE · 11-12-2016, 07:13 AM

There is a very easy way to test this theory. While the parking lights are on slowly plug the umbilical cord into the TV. Watch the trailer lights as to when they come on and note that depth of insertion into the receptacle. That is the point of electrical contact. If the umbilical can be inserted further into the receptacle that would indicate Seating of the Contacts and give an indication of the amount of blade connection.

McDave · 11-12-2016, 07:31 AM

It's interesting to me. After the serviceman pointed it out to me, i could see that the prongs of the male plug are not really going inside the receptacles on the female side. Instead, they are pressing against each other, held in place by the lock. If you push hard against the plug, it still doesn't go in any further. When you unclip the lock, the plug slides easily out without any of the resistance you would normally feel when you're unplugging something.

In my mind, it seems like something that has to stay together in conditions of constant vibration and movement should be fastened together more securely than that. OTOH, it has functioned without any problems over many thousands of miles of being towed. Do you think Ford might have designed it that way for some reason? It seems to me that in my old Tundra, you had to actually give a pull on the plug after unclipping the lock to get it out, although honestly it isn't something I paid much attention to. Oh well, the consensus seems to be that if it's not broke, I shouldn't try to fix it, so maybe I'll leave it alone other than maybe asking some other serviceman down the road to take another look at it.

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McDave · 11-12-2016, 07:33 AM

Howie, You posted while I was writing. I'll do the test you propose and let you know the results.

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HowieE · 11-12-2016, 07:56 AM

There is one other possible explanation. If the male prongs in the Ford receptacle are spring loaded that would allow the type of connection you are describing. With the receptacle open push in on any of the prongs and see I they are spring loaded.

I really doubt this is the case since Ford always designs the cheapest system possible. Any company that would obsolete the AC damper motor control when the using vehicles are only 2 years old can't be trusted to far.

If there is any question about that receptacle i would replace it with a none Ford part. The lights are one thing but you can not afford a sloppy connection on the brakes

aftermath · 11-12-2016, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McDave

It's interesting to me. After the serviceman pointed it out to me, i could see that the prongs of the male plug are not really going inside the receptacles on the female side. Instead, they are pressing against each other, held in place by the lock....
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Just curious, how can you "see" this? I would simply install the trailer plug into the receptacle and mark the side where it was inserted. Take out the plug and measure how deep the trailer plug actually went into the Ford's connection. Then measure how far the male connection is recessed and you should be able to determine if they are just touching or actually engaging.

Of course if you can see through the plastic housings then that would be better. I could use your powers to find the sewer line below my basement floor if you might be available.

McDave · 11-12-2016, 08:39 AM

Sorry, "see" is the wrong word. After the serviceman showed me, I could "feel" that there was no resistance when the plug is pulled out.

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AnnArborBob · 11-12-2016, 08:59 AM

If your lights and brakes work then the proper electrical connection has been established between your trailer and the tow vehicle. As previously mentioned if the electrical connection was to fail while en-route a warning light would come on on the dash of the tow vehicle.

The trailer seven way connection used on Ford trucks is purchased from an OEM supplier who also provides the same connection to other truck brands. Your service guy is either ignorant or trying to mess with your head.

Do test your lights and brakes each time you hookup. It's a good idea to use a small emery board to clean the contacts periodically and dielectric grease is a good product to use, especially if you tow in wet conditions a lot.

aftermath · 11-12-2016, 10:05 AM

McDave,

OK, I get it. I am interested in hearing more about the service tech guy. Who does he work for, Ford or some trailer sales place? It still sounds a little fishy for me.

Try measuring things like I and another poster mentioned and let us know what you find. I don't think I "feel" the plug disconnecting when I pull it out. Mine is a standard bayonet type plug that I keep clean and greased with that electrical connection goop. Slides in and disconnects without any noticeable sound or feel.

Has your serviceman offered up a solution? Does he want to fix it for you?

Boxite · 11-12-2016, 11:28 AM

I've owned a number of Ford PUs and the trailer wiring/connectors have always been troublesome. In two cases they were MIS-wired from industry standard, and in all cases I eventually removed the OEM connector and installed a quality aftermarket 7-way receptacle and had no further problems.

Without a "gauge" or purpose-designed tool I would think "prying" on the connectors would be a haphazard and unreliable repair. Before I did that I'd buy a quality receptacle and install it.

Otherwise, If it ain't broke....

Meanwhile, it's always a good idea to have a lanyard on the trailer pigtail in the event that it does disconnect, it will be prevented from falling onto the pavement and being destroyed.

arktos55343 · 11-12-2016, 12:01 PM

Along these same lines, I tow with an '03 F250 Super Duty using a Prodigy 2 brake controller. Often, when I hook up, I get a n/c warning on the Prodigy. Sometimes it will correct itself if I use electronic cleaning spray on the TV and trailer connections....sometimes not. The Prodigy usually shows a proper connection after about 20 minutes of towing. I have assumed this is due to rust on the ball, and it takes time to wear away and establish the ground. Other times, I will lose the connection and get a n/c warning while towing. It usually comes back...but as I intend to do some winter towing in the coming months, I am concerned about losing my brakes in slippery conditions. I have been considering upgrading to a P3 controller...in case there is an issue with the P2. Or is it a dialectic grease issue?

Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks!

jimfa440 · 11-12-2016, 12:20 PM

I had that same problem but never knew it until I bought a 2016 Ram. It would not plug in. I finally changed the plug on the trailer pig tail. Solved the problem.

Wanderer2604 · 11-12-2016, 01:11 PM

When I bought our 2007 Classic, we were using a 1-ton Chevy van. From the beginning, I didn't think the umbilical connection was very good. I replaced the trailer-side plug and it worked much better. Since then, I used a 2009 F150 and now a 2016 F250 and have not had any problem or feeling that it wasn't inserted or working.

It's been long enough ago that I don't remember the details, but I do remember that I didn't like the way the trailer plug connectors were shaped on the 2009 A/S and changed to same style plug I used on my '97 Safari.

If I can find (or remember) better detail on the plug differences, I will repost.

RadioGuy · 11-12-2016, 01:29 PM

McDave,
Good advice all along this thread and a general consensus. In some places service techs ... especially the service writer make a commission on work completed so they're always on the lookout for work they can do regardless of whether it needs doing.

Sounds like a second opinion from another service tech would give you some peace of mind. Get referrals from others at the next RV park you go to.

McDave · 11-12-2016, 01:33 PM

I did the test that Howie suggested, with the result that I believe the serviceman was correct: there is no insertion. As soon as I move the cap back out of the lock position, and give the plug a wiggle to start removing it, the trailer running lights go out, which means that the only thing holding the connection together is the lock on the receptacle cap on the TV. If this were to break, I know of no easy way to reestablish connection. I tried wiggling and pushing and shoving, but the plug would not go in any further. There seems to be some positive impediment other than merely too-tight fit on the female receptacle. Something must be out of alignment, but as was so aptly pointed out earlier, I can't "see" what it is, so I don't know if I'm working on the right part of the plug to fix it.

So my inclination is to replace one or the other connectors. Would it make more sense to replace the trailer side or the truck side?

BTW, the circumstances were that I had a few minor issues I wanted looked at, so I took the trailer to a local serviceman rather than hauling it a hundred miles to the dealer. He fixed the other problems, and as I was hooking the trailer back up again, he noticed the plug issue. He didn't try to sell me anything, but now I might be going back to him to buy a new plug or receptacle.

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Nuvite-F · 11-12-2016, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arktos55343

Along these same lines, I tow with an '03 F250 Super Duty using a Prodigy 2 brake controller. Often, when I hook up, I get a n/c warning on the Prodigy. Sometimes it will correct itself if I use electronic cleaning spray on the TV and trailer connections....sometimes not. The Prodigy usually shows a proper connection after about 20 minutes of towing. I have assumed this is due to rust on the ball, and it takes time to wear away and establish the ground. Other times, I will lose the connection and get a n/c warning while towing. It usually comes back...but as I intend to do some winter towing in the coming months, I am concerned about losing my brakes in slippery conditions. I have been considering upgrading to a P3 controller...in case there is an issue with the P2. Or is it a dialectic grease issue?

Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks!

One of the wires in the 7 pin connector is a ground wire--you should not be depending on the contact between the coupler and the ball for a ground.

Sounds like there's a problem there somewhere.