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Old 04-09-2012, 09:21 AM   #15
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Question Lot Rot....

Lot Rot is what we called the surface rust that forms on the rotors,(more so cuz their exposed) and drums of vehicles that have set on the lot without being driven....sound familiar?

I always test manually before getting on the hi-way to avoid any surprises.
So yes... I turn down the gain a little, apply and then re-set to previous point.

Bob
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:42 AM   #16
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The Boost Thingy

I have an older Prodigy, P2 I think, and have been using it for 5 or 6 years now. I have mine dialed in close enough to lock up and am happy with the performance. I usually test it each year in the spring on my street when no one is around.

When I get into the mountains I hit the boost switch up one spot. I get better braking from the trailer and don't have to worry about locking up the tires. Once I am down and into the flats again, I return the controller to the original setting. It is quick and easy and has worked well for me.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:08 AM   #17
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I think I might have a disconect somewhere in my trailer brake wiring. I have a new axle and brakes on my Bambi II and use a P3. Everthing appears to be working fine on the brake controller but nothing at all is happening with the trailer brakes when I apply the brakes or use the manual arm on the P3. Prior to the new axle and brakes I did get a message on the controller saying "no trailer detected" or something like like. I no longer get that message with the new brakes installed. The instructions that came with the P3 are not much help in troubleshooting the system.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:52 AM   #18
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You should manually check the brakes as soon as you get moving down a straight, safe area, without anyone following you. OR you can just wait and see if they work the first time you need them! We check them after every hitch'up. Get up to 25+/- MPH, let off the gas, apply the manual brake lever. They should give a solid pull without locking up. After a while, you'll now what it should feel like with the lever applied 50% and won't need to go through a full braking yank. This doesn't take any time, unless you realize you didn't get the 7-way in all the way and need to stop.

You may need less boost on a rainy day.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:00 AM   #19
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Mike,

I would start at the trailer connector, check output from the BC, make sure it's in the proper position for the brake line on the trailer side. A test light will get brighter as the gain is increased.
Have a helper stand next to the wheels, use a jumper or actuate the breakaway and quickly power the trailer brake line on/off you should be able to hear the magnets actuate. On our 63 Safari there always seemed to be a corroded brake wire somewhere every Spring.

Bob
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:28 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
I think I might have a disconect somewhere in my trailer brake wiring. I have a new axle and brakes on my Bambi II and use a P3. Everthing appears to be working fine on the brake controller but nothing at all is happening with the trailer brakes when I apply the brakes or use the manual arm on the P3. Prior to the new axle and brakes I did get a message on the controller saying "no trailer detected" or something like like. I no longer get that message with the new brakes installed. The instructions that came with the P3 are not much help in troubleshooting the system.
'No trailer' means the brake circuit is incomplete. If you don't see this, it just means the electricity is making it through the loop... and doesn't give you any indication on if the brakes are activating at all. Any trouble shooting beyond that is going to involve testing the voltage at the brake(s), and isolating the problem.
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