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Old 09-16-2014, 01:27 PM   #113
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McGriffus,

Some of the parts you purchased seemed pretty cheap. Sometimes you get what you pay for.......and may be made of "Chinesium" The hub price seems about right.

Last spring I lubed the front wheel bearings by removing the ABS sensor and pumping some grease into the hub. Internet folklore tells me it is a good thing to do. It certainly can't hurt anything. You need a hypodermic needle on the end of your grease gun to put some grease into the hub. The caliper and rotor must be removed to access the sensor port.
I have been told that the ball joints are getting loose in my truck at 47k miles. The front tires aren't showing any adverse wear yet and it seems to steer pretty straight. I'm going to give it more time before I change out the ball joints. I also have the steering gear box stabalizer as a preventative to gear box wear.
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Old 09-16-2014, 02:34 PM   #114
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All I've purchased so far are brake pads. I haven't had any more work done on the truck yet. It does seem odd to me that it's "normal" for a vehicle to need this work at 100,000 miles. Seems like it's another way to get them more money. I really haven't figured out yet what I'm going to do.


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Old 09-16-2014, 02:35 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisen View Post
The sealed front hub/bearing can easily need replacing at 100k. Your maintenance schedule calls for checking them the first time at 35k, if I remember correctly. If you do some looking on the Dodge discussion sites that is why some people, including me have gone to the free wheeling front hub conversion. If has real taper roller wheel bearings and with the free wheeling front hubs it reduces the wear and tear on the rest of the front axle components.

I'm going to look into this...


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Old 09-16-2014, 03:16 PM   #116
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So I just read 9 pages of comments in this thread, and all over the internet. I am going to order my tow vehicle (either today or tomorrow). I am stuck between the 6.4L V8 Hemi and the CTD.

My trailer is a 27FB Eddie Bauer, which is only 8k. As configured the 6.4L with 4.10 rear will pull over 12k. (with the payload fully loaded, and getting the air suspension)

I plan on doing a cross country trip, so yes, the "try driving across the rockies" analogy applies.

I would prefer to not spend the 9k upgrade on the CTD and my reasoning is that I have an extra 50% capacity in the tow spec. I'd be nervous if my trailer was 11.9k and the max rating was 12k, but I'm at 8k out of 12k.

How much does the reduced weight of the trailer and not coming close to the max rating comes into play for the decision between the new 6.4L V8 and CTD?

As an aside, I will be on an extended trip, so drive with the trailer, setup camp for a month, then use the truck as the daily driver going to different destinations in that region. It will be my only vehicle as well.
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Old 09-16-2014, 04:07 PM   #117
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Just some data from my recent 2700 miles with my new Serenity 30 RB. Maybe this will help you….

Fuel mileage at 60-64 mph, moderate wind, averaged about 11.5 - 12 mpg

Hitch: Reese dual cam, sway control, weight distributing hitch

Weights, half fuel load, standard tank. Full water load in trailer.

Front axle 4380 lbs, rear axle 4300 lbs., Trailer 7140 lbs. This is across a certified Indiana truck scale. My TV has about 78,000 miles on it.

Hope this is useful,
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Old 09-16-2014, 04:33 PM   #118
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BASE729,

Sounds like you've made a decision going for the Hemi. It should make a nice rig. One suggestion then, don't test drive the Cummins, especially on any hills in PA.

Its a bit like deciding between an AS and a 5'er both have pluses and minuses.

BTW, welcome to Airforums.

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Old 09-17-2014, 01:30 AM   #119
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Just one more comment on the side of the diesel. With the Hemi, fuel mileage probably around 9-10 mpg at best. With about 28 usable gallons, this means 280 miles per tank at best. The diesel, with the DEF should get about 13 - 14, and with 33 usable gallons, about 462 miles. For me this is very important as I like to pick and choose my fuel stops.

Also, on my recent trip, pulling up a long grade exactly like one faces in the Rockies, I passed a nice Prevost Moho, commented on the CB how beautiful it was and the response was to inquire if I had modified my Cummins diesel in my Dodge. The extra torque going up the hills just may fall in the "priceless" category......LOL


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Old 09-17-2014, 03:29 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgriffrus View Post
I asked the guy about the front end needing overhauled with the truck only having 100,300 miles on it. He didn't blink an eye and said "that's about normal". I have a feeling he's full of it, saw it had 100,000 miles and decided it was time for him to get some more money.

Anyone run into this? I'm pretty sure me and the son armed with a Haynes manual, YouTube and a six pack can tackle this IF the hubs really need replacing. Suggestions or advice?
I think your both correct. The "greaseless" components they use an vehicles these days causes more than a little aggravation. Because of that, 100K sounds about right when I had to pull both hubs and both front axle halves to replace both universals since the OEM junk don't have grease fittings, just like the hubs. One rod end at the same one time. (grease able fitting on the universals now!)

At least the hubs only needed corrosion control, and a good coating of anti seize due to the close tolerance fit. You must be very careful with the anti skid harness though, or you'll be out an additional $50-75. (yes I got bit in the wallet)

Now at 150K my ball joints are in need of replacement, but my '48 is taking presidence..

A side note about OEM though, I went to a symposium several years ago and one of the presenters was in the automotive parts business. Of all the speakers he is the one I still remember.

His whole point was that very little of the OEM parts you buy from the dealer are actually better than the corner parts store, and often worse. Much of the time the manufacture wants to turn a profit and only wants the vehicle to last a set amount of time before you need to take it in for repair, so quality is higher with an expected life span. (so higher cost)

The corner store parts commonly are built on the same bench from the same machine at the same factory but in a different batch and the materials used are not as refined for a controlled fail, and end up being a better quality by our standards.

He did go on to say that there are always exceptions, and there are disreputable manufacturers, so do you homework if you don't know the name, but by and large, the corner auto parts dealers have as high or higher quality than the OEM at the dealership, and very many of them are OEM standards just cutting out the middle man and the name brand re-packaging
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Old 09-17-2014, 06:37 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
BASE729,

Sounds like you've made a decision going for the Hemi. It should make a nice rig. One suggestion then, don't test drive the Cummins, especially on any hills in PA.

Its a bit like deciding between an AS and a 5'er both have pluses and minuses.

BTW, welcome to Airforums.

Gary
This.

We haven't even picked out which Airstream we want, but it will likely be something in the 30' flavor range. I needed something with a backseat for a family addition (previous truck was a regular cab) and was pretty well sold on the 6.4L in the '14 2500 - until I drove the CTD. Now, I have a '14 Ram 2500 CTD Mega Cab Longhorn in the driveway and absolutely love it. It is my daily driver.

That said, I reckon the 6.4L is plenty for near any Airstream.

adam
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:34 AM   #122
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One caveat ... the hemi does NOT have a compression brake when descending passes as does the CTD ... nor does it have the trailer hauling torque when ascending steep mountain passes ... YMMV
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:51 AM   #123
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4:10

Quote:
Originally Posted by BASE729 View Post
So I just read 9 pages of comments in this thread, and all over the internet. I am going to order my tow vehicle (either today or tomorrow). I am stuck between the 6.4L V8 Hemi and the CTD.

My trailer is a 27FB Eddie Bauer, which is only 8k. As configured the 6.4L with 4.10 rear will pull over 12k. (with the payload fully loaded, and getting the air suspension)

I plan on doing a cross country trip, so yes, the "try driving across the rockies" analogy applies.

I would prefer to not spend the 9k upgrade on the CTD and my reasoning is that I have an extra 50% capacity in the tow spec. I'd be nervous if my trailer was 11.9k and the max rating was 12k, but I'm at 8k out of 12k.

How much does the reduced weight of the trailer and not coming close to the max rating comes into play for the decision between the new 6.4L V8 and CTD?

As an aside, I will be on an extended trip, so drive with the trailer, setup camp for a month, then use the truck as the daily driver going to different destinations in that region. It will be my only vehicle as well.
Base729: The 4.10 gears is a excellent idea, in my opinion. It will certainly help the Hemi on pulling. I have the 5.9 Cummins and it is an absolute joy to drive with or without the Airstream. And the 'no-cracked' dash option, is good too !
After buying the 28' International, I am glad I have the 4.10's cause even though this is not the inter-mountain west, some of the roads here in Virginia and NC do have some steep grades. I would not change them out for more speed on the top end. 62-63 mph is good for towing and I am right there at that perfect power band 1850rpm for peak torque. Two lane twisty roads are posted 55mph, so I am good.
And your newer truck will have more gears available in the transmission, whereas I only have 4.
Its nice to look at new trucks, I just don't like those new prices these days. Have a good one !
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:53 AM   #124
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Quote:
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I have read that some have had success lubing the front hub bearings through the hole where the ABS sensor mounts. Have not enough miles to worry about it yet on my RAM. I am bothered by the overall lack of lube fittings on the newer vehicles.

The free wheeling hubs would be nice but they seem to be extremely expensive. I am not sure I could justify it unless the price drops in the future
I brought the Yukon gear kit and it was $1600 two years ago or twice the price of sealed hub bearing assembly which I was quoted just under $400 each. When I factored in that the reduced wear on front drive line parts and that they should last longer I went with the kit. I have a G56 manual trans, which has an excessively high reverse gear, so side benefit with the free Warn hubs is I can now use 4 Lo when backing my trailers.

Only comment I have on adding grease to sealed bearing is to consider compatibility of OEM grease and to remember sealed bearings are not normally totally full of grease.
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Old 10-11-2014, 08:24 PM   #125
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Talking I like my dodge

07 dodge,6.7, 6 speed auto,373 ratio . We tow a 2013, 31 classic, we just returned from a 3300 mile trip from montana to upper michigan via Canada and return averaging 12 mpg.
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Old 10-12-2014, 05:15 AM   #126
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I guess the thing I like the most about our 2012 Ram CTD is the lack of drama when towing. We're able to pass the semis when going uphill and use our exhaust brake to slow us when going downhill. It has no glow plugs to burn out (which happened to us on our Ford tv while on vacation about a dozen years ago). We opted for the lifetime oil changes when we bought the truck so maintenance isn't that bad (while we're near our basecamp anyway). I'll never buy another gas engine. YMMV of course.
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