Dodge with Cummins

[LeeJ]

Rick
Who does your service?
I just spent $2300 for front end and 3 fluids changes.


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[BAB]

With a brand new truck the only service I've had has been oil and filter change. Since I'm heading off for a really long haul, I just had the fuel filter changed as well. Oh, and so far the dealer does the oil/filter changes gratis.

[RickDavis]

Originally Posted by LeeJ

Rick
Who does your service?
I just spent $2300 for front end and 3 fluids changes.


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I do almost all my own routine service, oil filter, lube etc.. On the 99 I had an independent shop replace the injection pump at 458 K.
On that truck I also drilled and installed grease fittings on the ball joints and I have never replaced a front end part.

I am afraid the dealer will be harder to avoid on the 13 due to the increased complexity and the need for specialized computer equipment above and beyond the aftermarket code readers. At least I can still do my own basic maintenance.
The $100.00 plus for a service manual /cd and a subscription to the Turbo Diesel Register can be 2 of the best investments you can make.

For whatever its worth, we are at the Birthday Bash right now. The last tank of fuel was about half and half towing and solo and turned in 17.5 mpg hand calculated. Pretty impressive for something of that size and weight

[RickDavis]

Originally Posted by carl2591

while the cummins engine is a great one for pulling i think the short comings are the dodge trucks interior.. cracked dash, electrical problem, fron tend issues especially on 4x4 and get some oversize tires and lift the truck wow the front end will almost shake off..

:

You must have seen somrthing different than I have. At 577 K I do not have a cracked dash and have no electrical problems. I will admit to some cracking of the vinyl on the sides of the cloth drivers seat but I not only have sat there for all those miles but have slept a good many nights there while delivering RV's.
Since my 99 is 2wd I can't speak to 4x4 problems and I have never gone with oversize tires or lifts ( and personally never would)
I know of these trucks that have gone 2 million miles.
To me the weak area was the air conditioning which has required more service than it should..
I was happy enough with the 99 that I kept when I bought the 13.

[Tyvekcat]

Yeah, I made sure that I can change that fuel filter where ever I am at, in light or dark and I always carry two spare. I have never needed them, you can generally tell where you can buy diesel.
Don't want to get a load of water.
No cracked dash here in 9years. Just busted through the 31k miles on it. I think its just getting broke in

I think the maintenance is easier on this diesel than the gas truck I had. It was a pain to change spark plugs. I can't live without the rattle, rattle, rattle now.
To each his own, I'm just thankful for what I have.

Have a good one,

[mgriffrus]

It's been a while, but I've got a couple questions.

I finally got the front end recall done last week and the dealer "found" some other issues to be addressed.

1. Brake job, front end: $179.99
(Son and I did that last night: $38)
2. Front pinion seal: $300ish
(Oreilly part:$12? Don't remember)
3. Passenger u-joint: $400 ish
(Oreilly part: $15 ish)
4. Front hubs and bearings :$1100
(Oreilly parts: $360 - $560)
(Summit racing: $360 -3 yr warranty)
(Factorymopar.com: $400ish)

I asked the guy about the front end needing overhauled with the truck only having 100,300 miles on it. He didn't blink an eye and said "that's about normal". I have a feeling he's full of it, saw it had 100,000 miles and decided it was time for him to get some more money.

Anyone run into this? I'm pretty sure me and the son armed with a Haynes manual, YouTube and a six pack can tackle this IF the hubs really need replacing. Suggestions or advice?


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[polarlyse]

I had my front end done somewhere in the 80's k miles. Lower ball joints were the motivating part that got the job started though. While apart I had the uppers done of course and the axel "U" joints as well. The "U" joints appeared good and were not making any noise but upon removal they were on the verge of failure. Caught them at the right time though. I went with factory parts. I found so much controversy over the aftermarket parts I couldn't wade through all the crap so went factory. Had it done by a friend and it was $1200 labor plus parts. So that's the ballpark you're in. My truck is a Ram 3500 so those front ends can be a bear to take apart if they want to be.

[crisen]

The sealed front hub/bearing can easily need replacing at 100k. Your maintenance schedule calls for checking them the first time at 35k, if I remember correctly. If you do some looking on the Dodge discussion sites that is why some people, including me have gone to the free wheeling front hub conversion. If has real taper roller wheel bearings and with the free wheeling front hubs it reduces the wear and tear on the rest of the front axle components.

[Larry C]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

Does it make me a bad person because I take a certain amount of pride in having a truck and trailer combo that cost me less than 2/3 of what many paid for their tow vehicle alone?

I guess that's two of us.....I used to call it common sense, but maybe it's because there's too much money casing too little common sense today....

For whatever it's worth.

Larry C

[J. Morgan]

I think we could be friends Larry..

[Larry C]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

I think we could be friends Larry..

Me thinks that can be arranged!

Larry

[RickDavis]

Originally Posted by crisen

The sealed front hub/bearing can easily need replacing at 100k. Your maintenance schedule calls for checking them the first time at 35k, if I remember correctly. If you do some looking on the Dodge discussion sites that is why some people, including me have gone to the free wheeling front hub conversion. If has real taper roller wheel bearings and with the free wheeling front hubs it reduces the wear and tear on the rest of the front axle components.

I have read that some have had success lubing the front hub bearings through the hole where the ABS sensor mounts. Have not enough miles to worry about it yet on my RAM. I am bothered by the overall lack of lube fittings on the newer vehicles.

The free wheeling hubs would be nice but they seem to be extremely expensive. I am not sure I could justify it unless the price drops in the future

[crispyboy]

McGriffus,

Some of the parts you purchased seemed pretty cheap. Sometimes you get what you pay for.......and may be made of "Chinesium" The hub price seems about right.

Last spring I lubed the front wheel bearings by removing the ABS sensor and pumping some grease into the hub. Internet folklore tells me it is a good thing to do. It certainly can't hurt anything. You need a hypodermic needle on the end of your grease gun to put some grease into the hub. The caliper and rotor must be removed to access the sensor port.
I have been told that the ball joints are getting loose in my truck at 47k miles. The front tires aren't showing any adverse wear yet and it seems to steer pretty straight. I'm going to give it more time before I change out the ball joints. I also have the steering gear box stabalizer as a preventative to gear box wear.

[mgriffrus]

All I've purchased so far are brake pads. I haven't had any more work done on the truck yet. It does seem odd to me that it's "normal" for a vehicle to need this work at 100,000 miles. Seems like it's another way to get them more money. I really haven't figured out yet what I'm going to do.


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[mgriffrus]

Originally Posted by crisen

The sealed front hub/bearing can easily need replacing at 100k. Your maintenance schedule calls for checking them the first time at 35k, if I remember correctly. If you do some looking on the Dodge discussion sites that is why some people, including me have gone to the free wheeling front hub conversion. If has real taper roller wheel bearings and with the free wheeling front hubs it reduces the wear and tear on the rest of the front axle components.

I'm going to look into this...


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[BASE729]

So I just read 9 pages of comments in this thread, and all over the internet. I am going to order my tow vehicle (either today or tomorrow). I am stuck between the 6.4L V8 Hemi and the CTD.

My trailer is a 27FB Eddie Bauer, which is only 8k. As configured the 6.4L with 4.10 rear will pull over 12k. (with the payload fully loaded, and getting the air suspension)

I plan on doing a cross country trip, so yes, the "try driving across the rockies" analogy applies.

I would prefer to not spend the 9k upgrade on the CTD and my reasoning is that I have an extra 50% capacity in the tow spec. I'd be nervous if my trailer was 11.9k and the max rating was 12k, but I'm at 8k out of 12k.

How much does the reduced weight of the trailer and not coming close to the max rating comes into play for the decision between the new 6.4L V8 and CTD?

As an aside, I will be on an extended trip, so drive with the trailer, setup camp for a month, then use the truck as the daily driver going to different destinations in that region. It will be my only vehicle as well.

[Msmoto]

Just some data from my recent 2700 miles with my new Serenity 30 RB. Maybe this will help you….

Fuel mileage at 60-64 mph, moderate wind, averaged about 11.5 - 12 mpg

Hitch: Reese dual cam, sway control, weight distributing hitch

Weights, half fuel load, standard tank. Full water load in trailer.

Front axle 4380 lbs, rear axle 4300 lbs., Trailer 7140 lbs. This is across a certified Indiana truck scale. My TV has about 78,000 miles on it.

Hope this is useful,

[GCinSC2]

BASE729,

Sounds like you've made a decision going for the Hemi. It should make a nice rig. One suggestion then, don't test drive the Cummins, especially on any hills in PA.

Its a bit like deciding between an AS and a 5'er both have pluses and minuses.

BTW, welcome to Airforums.

Gary

[Msmoto]

Just one more comment on the side of the diesel. With the Hemi, fuel mileage probably around 9-10 mpg at best. With about 28 usable gallons, this means 280 miles per tank at best. The diesel, with the DEF should get about 13 - 14, and with 33 usable gallons, about 462 miles. For me this is very important as I like to pick and choose my fuel stops.

Also, on my recent trip, pulling up a long grade exactly like one faces in the Rockies, I passed a nice Prevost Moho, commented on the CB how beautiful it was and the response was to inquire if I had modified my Cummins diesel in my Dodge. The extra torque going up the hills just may fall in the "priceless" category......LOL


Ms Tommie Lauer
Greensboro, NC
2015 Serenity 30 RB / 2008 Dodge Cummins 4 X 4
WBCCI #4165 AIR #31871

[MYater]

Originally Posted by mgriffrus

I asked the guy about the front end needing overhauled with the truck only having 100,300 miles on it. He didn't blink an eye and said "that's about normal". I have a feeling he's full of it, saw it had 100,000 miles and decided it was time for him to get some more money.

Anyone run into this? I'm pretty sure me and the son armed with a Haynes manual, YouTube and a six pack can tackle this IF the hubs really need replacing. Suggestions or advice?

I think your both correct. The "greaseless" components they use an vehicles these days causes more than a little aggravation. Because of that, 100K sounds about right when I had to pull both hubs and both front axle halves to replace both universals since the OEM junk don't have grease fittings, just like the hubs. One rod end at the same one time. (grease able fitting on the universals now!)

At least the hubs only needed corrosion control, and a good coating of anti seize due to the close tolerance fit. You must be very careful with the anti skid harness though, or you'll be out an additional $50-75. (yes I got bit in the wallet)

Now at 150K my ball joints are in need of replacement, but my '48 is taking presidence..

A side note about OEM though, I went to a symposium several years ago and one of the presenters was in the automotive parts business. Of all the speakers he is the one I still remember.

His whole point was that very little of the OEM parts you buy from the dealer are actually better than the corner parts store, and often worse. Much of the time the manufacture wants to turn a profit and only wants the vehicle to last a set amount of time before you need to take it in for repair, so quality is higher with an expected life span. (so higher cost)

The corner store parts commonly are built on the same bench from the same machine at the same factory but in a different batch and the materials used are not as refined for a controlled fail, and end up being a better quality by our standards.

He did go on to say that there are always exceptions, and there are disreputable manufacturers, so do you homework if you don't know the name, but by and large, the corner auto parts dealers have as high or higher quality than the OEM at the dealership, and very many of them are OEM standards just cutting out the middle man and the name brand re-packaging