This should be a good combination. Congrats. I bought my '04 Dodge and '83 Silver Streak
the same week. A lot to do, relatively.
Judging by your screen name I am surmising that a bit of problem-solving comes naturally, and thus the below is offered for your attention. Based on other owner reports online, etc. If a problem comes up, then it likely is common to others.
Not recommendations to spend money (except tires & shock absorbers), but info to bookmark.
The '06 should be a good choice for economy and longevity. Cummins designed the ISB for a B50 life (MTBO) of 10k-hours or about 350k miles. Get the engine hours and determine average mph. Best is 27-mph or greater (preferably above 30-mph) for all parameters of performance.
About a dozen of us with 28-34' aero aluminum trailers and CTD's are seeing 13-16-mpg at towing speeds of 62 mph and lower with 3rd Gen CTD's.
These are items noted by other owners wanting improvement; or items to keep in mind as time goes on:
- Hard seat cushions: med-dense foam can be installed. 2010 and later can be installed with adaptation. ROHO or other seat cushions a nice choice on 300+ mile drives.
- Steering gear box: New Dodge part number replacement; conversion to 2008 & later type linkage is recommended by many. Steering wander is contraindicated for control, not just poor mpg, tire wear, etc.
- Ball joints, tie rods, etc: wear fairly fast at around 80k and again before 200k. Factory parts only, not generic aftermarket. Unit hub bearings same.
- KONI FSD shock absorbers an enormous upgrade
- MICHELIN AT/2 or BRIDGESTONE r700 a superior tire choice. The "new" tires won't last long, nor track well and not best for towing. Only Load Range E acceptable. (I wouldn't keep the Nitto's as the above tires will last in excess of 7-years/100k miles).
- Brakes will last above 100k. Use only MOPAR "Premium" (not "Value") parts.
- Batteries are similar. Originals last 7-years plus. Only acceptable aftermarket is SEARS Platinum 2 (made by ODYSSEY).
- One piece aluminum driveshaft replacement as with 2010 and later if OEM is noisy or troublesome.
- BALDWIN PF7977 fuel filter and new MOPAR air filter, only
. Same for BALDWIN or FLEETGUARD or [best] DONALDSON oil filters only. I use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 oil as it is easily available and has shown good numbers per used oil analysis. Engine turnover at start is easier even in hot south Texas.
- Aftermarket tuners unnecessary and tend to be contrary to longest life (although SMARTY JR for slightly better mpg when adjusted accordingly).
- Etc, etc. PM any of us Dodge owners for more, or for links to more details.
The usual details apply:
- Adjust engine valves every 100k miles
- Service u-joints and do high-rpm balance on shafts every 100k
- Locate any CAC leaks
- Tire pressure according to scaled loads
- Alignment made perfect and zero
- Tires/wheels balanced on HUNTER GSP-9700
- DIRECLINK Brake Controller
info here, and trailer disc brake conversions elsewhere.
- The DODGE hitch receiver, if factory, is welded in place. If bolted in (dealer install) like mine that I had to replace and
I don't believe it ever "distributed" the leverage exerted by the WDH very well. I've replaced with a generic Class V for now.
The Titan Class V #45299
is the "maximum" hitch receiver and probably best as it replaces the rear bumper crossmember. Overkill for a 23' A/S, but not for a CTD given it may have other duties.
Trailer Tow wiring may be of interest to you. The factory package is adequate
, but . . . Trailer wiring basics for towing
The Dual Cam is a second tier WDH choice. But the best of those.
As always, there is "more".