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Old 06-03-2011, 10:12 AM   #21
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High Idle Switch

In my preparations to order a new Duramax, I have come across an option that I 't really understand. It is the High Idle Switch (UF3) and the MSRP cost is $200.

I have not been able to find much information about this option, other than it is for use in cold weather conditions. We do camp in the colder weather, and are wondering if this option is something that we want to have. For the time being, we are going to get it even though we're not exactly sure what it does.

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Old 06-03-2011, 11:27 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
In my preparations to order a new Duramax, I have come across an option that I 't really understand. It is the High Idle Switch (UF3) and the MSRP cost is $200.

I have not been able to find much information about this option, other than it is for use in cold weather conditions. We do camp in the colder weather, and are wondering if this option is something that we want to have. For the time being, we are going to get it even though we're not exactly sure what it does.

Brian
It is for PTO use. (some other odd custom commercial/fleet uses too, like ambulance, etc) You don't need it unless you get a PTO wench or hydraulic pump.... It's for commercial customers primarily.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:02 PM   #23
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The switch will allow you to idle for longer periods of time without hurting the engine, if I remember correctly. New diesels are not set up to idle like the older ones would for long periods of time. jim
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:10 PM   #24
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The switch will allow you to idle for longer periods of time without hurting the engine, if I remember correctly. New diesels are not set up to idle like the older ones would for long periods of time. jim
I am afraid this is urban mythology. I'm not trying to diss you, but this is something somebody made up and it just kind of hangs out there. It is strictly for PTO and HEAVY electrical demands. (NOT RVing) I'm talking ambulance, etc.

There is nothing wrong mechanically with idling at the regular idle speeds. It is wasteful and completely unnecessary down to way below 0*F. That makes it wrong economically and environmentally.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:01 PM   #25
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OK, now I'm confused. On the Chevrolet website, it describes the high idle switch as an option for use in cold weather and doesn't give any more detail.

This Duramax that I am ordering is coming with dual 125 amp alternators and dual 730 CCA bateries.

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Old 06-03-2011, 01:33 PM   #26
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Out of my 2008 diesel owners manual:

"The high idle feature elevates the engine idle speed to 1050 rpms when outside temperatures are below 32 deg F and the engine coolant temperatures are below 150 deg F. This feature enhances heater performance by raising the engine coolant temperature faster."

Basically, it makes the engine warm up faster in the winter, so the heater will warm you up sooner. Diesels do take longer to warm up than gas engines. My Jeep warms up fast, within a mile from the house it begins to put out warm air. My diesel takes about 7 miles before it starts warming the cabin.
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Old 06-03-2011, 08:08 PM   #27
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HIgh Idle is the best thing going for any extended idle: raises oil pressure to 40-psi or better and thickens that "wedge" of oil at the bearings.
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Old 06-03-2011, 08:48 PM   #28
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Brian,
If you have not already chosen this option on your new truck, I recommend the factory installed brake controller. The one on my Silverado is the best controller I have ever used.
Alan

Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
In my preparations to order a new Duramax, I have come across an option that I 't really understand. It is the High Idle Switch (UF3) and the MSRP cost is $200.
Brian
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:52 PM   #29
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On a Dodge

I just bought a 2011 Dodge and this is what they told me.

They recommend that if the truck is to be left at idle for long periods of time to use the high idle to keep the trucks turbo and exhaust system from stopping up.
In the owners manual it also goes on to say its a cold weather feature that allows faster warm ups when the truck is started in cold weather.

Dont know if Chevy is in the same guidelines, just thought Id lay it out there. Its only what Ive been told by my owners manual and the dealership it was bought at.
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:49 PM   #30
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Brian,
If you have not already chosen this option on your new truck, I recommend the factory installed brake controller. The one on my Silverado is the best controller I have ever used.
Alan
Alan, thank you for the info on the factory brake controller. I have already ordered the Integrated Brake Controller (JL1) on the new truck.

Brian
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:51 PM   #31
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Thank you, everyone for the information on the high idle switch. I guess I want one on the new truck.

Brian
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:42 PM   #32
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As a die-hard gasser, I have a 2001 Chev 2500 Dual Cab 4WD that has 170000 miles on it and gets about 12 mpg average for way less per gallon average than diesel. I expect it to go 250000 miles easy on the first engine and it pulls my trailer like it is not even there, cost way less, is quieter, and smells better than a diesel, so I guess I just don't get the attraction!
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:48 AM   #33
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As a die-hard gasser, I have a 2001 Chev 2500 Dual Cab 4WD that has 170000 miles on it and gets about 12 mpg average for way less per gallon average than diesel. I expect it to go 250000 miles easy on the first engine and it pulls my trailer like it is not even there, cost way less, is quieter, and smells better than a diesel, so I guess I just don't get the attraction!
I somewhat agree with you. When we decided to do the truck camper pulling Lucy thing. I looked at every gasoline option for moving my new menagerie down the road, and none could handle it well. I have have done a bunch of Airstream towing (pushing 80,000 miles) with 2500 gasoline Suburbans. I have towed Lucy all over the country with excellent performance.

After due diligence in my research, I determined that I was now moving out of the realm of gasoline engines, and into diesel territory. My new tow vehicle with the truck camper on board with gear, fuel, and passengers will go over 9,000#. Lucy weighs 7,400# ready to camp. This load will be about 3,000# more than the Suburbans now carry. I just don't think that the Chevrolet 6 liter gasoline engine can do an adequate job of pulling this load down the road. I just don't want to find myself on a substantial upgrade doing 15 mph with my flashers on, and the gasoline engine screaming at 5500 rpm's ready to fly out through the grill.

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Old 06-04-2011, 01:01 AM   #34
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Fly'n, the Honda Ridgeline's got you beat by 4mpg with a heavier trailer, see post #4.
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:05 AM   #35
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Fly'n, the Honda Ridgeline's got you beat by 4mpg with a heavier trailer, see post #4.

Don't think so. A few facts.

Fly'n's pulling a 28' Airstream (loaded about 7300 lbs). The Honda Ridgeline is pulling a 22' Airstream (loaded about 4500 lbs). Hook a 7000 lb trailer up to the Honda and I doubt it will be getting 16 mpg. Unless the laws of physics don't apply to Honda vehicles. In addition, the GVWR for the Honda is 10,085 lbs. The Ridgeline weighs 4500 lbs., leaving about 5600 lbs for trailer and cargo. Hook a longer Airstream up and the Honda is seriously overweight. The Honda is not body on frame, it's a unibody vehicle. Could its sub frame handle the added stress of a larger Airstream? Also, Honda recommeds using premium fuel when towing. Last time I traveled out west (April 2010), premium gas cost more than diesel. Example: Refueled at a Chevron close to Zion National Park, diesel $3.15 a gallon, premium gas $3.39 a gallon. In all fairness, east of the Mississippi, diesel cost more than premium.

Honda makes very good vehicles. There's a 12 year old Accord with over 200,000 miles sitting in my driveway. I can't justify replacing it, because it's still a sound, reliable vehicle. Everything still works, original clutch, motor uses no oil, etc. etc. and gets 33 mpg on the highway.
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:23 AM   #36
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newroswell,

My apologies. Thought you were refering to the original poster, "Flyingfinn" who has a 28' Airstream. But, realize now, you were refering to "Flyncld" and his 22' Airstream.

Facts still apply though, to the Honda Ridgeline.

John
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:46 AM   #37
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I thought this thread was about duramax. jim
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Old 06-08-2011, 12:28 AM   #38
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It's supposed to be, but has strayed a little bit.

To try to get it back on track, let's hear about Dmax service intervals, and where owners are having their service done, including those who do their own servicing.

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Old 06-08-2011, 04:59 AM   #39
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In my estimation, you do not need it. I've got it on mine, and believe I have used it twice, both times when the temps were way below zero. But since I live in Michigan and spend a lot of time in Wisconsin, to me it is more important to have seat heaters and a block heater. I think that all Duramax engines come with a block heater, and mine did, though there was NO information about it that came with the vehicle, and the dealer personnel swore it was not true. For lots of info. on this and other arcane topics having to do with the Duramax / Allison, go to www.dieselplace.com

I also doubt that you need the dual alternators. Duramax comes stock with two starting batteries, and unless you're going with a snowplow option, you likely won't need the two alternators. Even with your camper, the stock alternator puts out quite a bit of juice ... I think maybe its a 180 amp? Do be sure that you will be getting the camper wiring harness, that supplies power, etc. through a plug located below the bed. Are you folks gonna' have a coach battery with the camper, or will it "run" off of the truck batteries? And will there be a solar panel or two on the roof?
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:04 AM   #40
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I've got the high idle feature on my Dodge. I don't use it very much - only if idling in hot weather but I rarely do this. The truck will automatically idle up in cold weather. I don't like to idle for extended periods because the fuel can wash down the cylinders causing fuel dilution, it creates more soot for the dpf filter and it just wastes expensive fuel.
I'm surprised they charge extra for this - you may want to check as it may just be a computer setting. I had my truck in for an oil change and I had them turn on the high idle feature and turn off the daytime running lights. The high idle feature is triggered using the cruise control buttons.
Sounds like some decent mileage numbers for the D-Max's.
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