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Old 08-05-2009, 02:50 PM   #15
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The note in my signature sums up what Ford should have kept.
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:01 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Coastalview View Post
The note in my signature sums up what Ford should have kept.
The 7.3L PSD is a great engine. Bullet proof!!!
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:16 PM   #17
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I would look forward to Ford's in-house diesel. To recover from the Navistar reputation I would imagine that they will test it until its absolutely bulletproof. Argueably, Ford's truck reputation is on the line. If only they weren't having to deal with the ultra-low sulfer and emission standards.
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Old 08-17-2009, 09:18 AM   #18
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Angry It's True. Ford 6.0L PSD is a real "piece of work."

Yep. Chalk me up as yet another unhappy Ford 6.0L PSD owner.

My engine puked anti-freeze and water out its tailpipe as I climbed a 4% grade in Kentucky this past weekend. Haven't heard from the Ford dealer yet, but the head gasket prolly failed. I hope I didn't damage anything else.

There was no warning. I had been pulling my 30' TT from South Carolina for 12 consecutive hours (never shutting down the engine to keep it cool), checking the oil and fluids at each fillup... when within about 60 seconds I went from "normal" engine temp to having the temp needle pegged at hot.

I immediately exited the freeway, put her in neutral and coasted to a safe spot. Upon examining the coolant reservoir, it was empty. Damage had been done, as filling the reservoir with coolant/water only confirmed breach in head gasket (or Lord knows where else).

My engine should be covered under Ford's 5/100k OEM powertrain warranty, but I've had enough. I don't feel I can trust this powertrain anymore. The engine had always been serviced by Ford or by me. I flushed the coolant and replaced the thermostat last summer, flushed the tranny, use Rotella syn oil, etc... it only had 82k miles. So much for Ford's diesel durability. And Ford thinks that I'll consider their "new" 6.4?

Has anyone put a Cummins in their Ford truck? There's an outfit in MT that does it. I've got a query in to them.

Upside: no injuries. Kids and wife safe. That's all that matters.
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Old 08-17-2009, 09:46 AM   #19
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I have put 70,000 miles on my 06 PSD in under three years. Most of it towing my 8,500 lb classic 31 trailer. I have had no problems with the drive train. Regular maint at 5,000 mile intervals. Fuel filters changed every 10,000 miles.

My limited slip rear end.... now that's another story.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:30 AM   #20
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Little Radio,

I'm sorry to hear about your problems this weekend. AutoWorld in Montana is a phenominal shop that knows what they're doing. They've been in the Cummins swap business for over 20 years now and they have it down to a science.

If I were a betting man, and I knew that your truck was 100% bone stock, I'd say your heads are fine and it's your EGR cooler that's given up the ghost. Depending on the severity of the failure, you will exhibit the same symptoms as head gasket failure.

What I would do, before going the $20-25K route for a CTD swap, is to do the following things:

1) Delete the EGR and EGR cooler. Buy the kit from www.rivercitydiesel.com ...they have the best design, in my opinion, and at the best price. If you go on Ebay and look up EGR delete kit, you'll find their name. They have a "Best Offer" button. Offer them $400 and they will accept...that's what I bought it for.

2) Buy a coolant filtration kit from www.dieselsite.com and get the shut-off valves too. Total price, if I remember right, is $176. I installed it myself in about an hour.

3) Buy a new degas bottle and cap, price should be around $70 for both. Takes less than half an hour to install.

4) Replace that crappy Motorcraft coolant with Fleetrite Extended Life Coolant (ECL). It's cherry red in color and what International Harvester uses in their version of our 6.0. The coolant is good for 300,000 in trucks and 600,000 in big rigs.

5) Finally, if you have any type of chip or programmer on your truck, take it off. The 6.0 is max'd out on its power/torque parameters.

I did steps 1-4 and just returned from a 1,000 trip, hauling our horses to a show. The road had quite a few hills and I averaged 11.3MPG the entire trip, towing a 6,300lb load. I also have a 1,400lb hauler bed, in place of the stock bed. No smoke of any kind, white, blue or black, and most important of all no coolant puking. I pushed the truck hard too.

I will eventually get the CTD swap done, but at this point, only when the 6.0 gives up the ghost. I'm going to use www.autoworldmt.com to do the job...they've been in the business a long time and know what they're doing.

Hope that helps you with your problems. Good luck.
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Old 08-18-2009, 12:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Since I seem to be among Diesel "experts" here, what is the opinion on the GM Duramax Diesel?
everything i have heard about the duramax is second hand
- made by Isuzu
- very quiet due to preheating in the fuel lines
- early models ate transmissions as fast as they were put in
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Old 08-18-2009, 03:36 PM   #22
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74,000 on my 2007 which will turn two years old in November; just returned from 3,200 miles mile to the VAC Rally in Laramie with side trips through Colorado, Utah and New Mexico. Most of the 74,000 is towing and other than three trips all the towing was done throughout the Rockies and Southwest where you get into a lot of long pulls on grades. So far the truck hasn't visited the shop for anything other than oil changes. Before I bought it, I did make sure it was an 07 because of specifications from Ford that were posted on ford-trucks.com that detailed the significant changes made to the 2007 and later 6.0 engines.
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:39 PM   #23
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I bought my 2004 Dodge CTD with 120,000 miles on it in 2007. Just made a solo 614-mile roundtrip. 24 mpg average of both legs at 62 mph. Towing my 34' Silver Streak was 15+ mpg on the same road at the same speed.

For those masochistic Ford guys: Replacing a fuel pump on a Cummins might be an hour or so.

Not the 25 labor hours as on a 6.4 Ford (at $115/hr).

Step One: Remove body from frame . . .

YouTube - Extreme Truck Repair

Here are the mechanics comments:

"6.0liter [engines] are easy compared to this beast. This one had a high pressure fuel pump failure with metal contamination. . . The fuel lines under everything [are] bolted to the block. Removing the cab is the actual [standard] operation. Works great with 6.0 too and it insures no exhaust leaks at the up-pipes.


And the coolant filter is a good idea on any engine [or type] from any manufacturer. Cheap at twice the price.

Well done thread. Will you be running for mayor of San Angelo, too?

[for you non-Texans, that's, "S'nanjuloh"]
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:22 AM   #24
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Strange, So Strange

I think it strange that I had, have very similar problems in my CRD Jeep Liberty with a great 4 cyl diesel.
I decided against a 6.0 Ford diesel because of the problems.
Common element: Government
I wanted a 4.5l Ford diesel but the government kept changing the rules.
Call me crazy but when Ford, Government Motors(GM) and Chrysler leave the country we will be able to buy better cars.
I want to buy American made cars to haul my Airstream though but government just keeps getting bigger and bigger.
Who is being helped by what is going on, not me. You???


Quote:
Originally Posted by StingrayL82 View Post
Little Radio,

I'm sorry to hear about your problems this weekend. AutoWorld in Montana is a phenominal shop that knows what they're doing. They've been in the Cummins swap business for over 20 years now and they have it down to a science.

If I were a betting man, and I knew that your truck was 100% bone stock, I'd say your heads are fine and it's your EGR cooler that's given up the ghost. Depending on the severity of the failure, you will exhibit the same symptoms as head gasket failure.

What I would do, before going the $20-25K route for a CTD swap, is to do the following things:

1) Delete the EGR and EGR cooler. Buy the kit from www.rivercitydiesel.com ...they have the best design, in my opinion, and at the best price. If you go on Ebay and look up EGR delete kit, you'll find their name. They have a "Best Offer" button. Offer them $400 and they will accept...that's what I bought it for.

2) Buy a coolant filtration kit from www.dieselsite.com and get the shut-off valves too. Total price, if I remember right, is $176. I installed it myself in about an hour.

3) Buy a new degas bottle and cap, price should be around $70 for both. Takes less than half an hour to install.

4) Replace that crappy Motorcraft coolant with Fleetrite Extended Life Coolant (ECL). It's cherry red in color and what International Harvester uses in their version of our 6.0. The coolant is good for 300,000 in trucks and 600,000 in big rigs.

5) Finally, if you have any type of chip or programmer on your truck, take it off. The 6.0 is max'd out on its power/torque parameters.

I did steps 1-4 and just returned from a 1,000 trip, hauling our horses to a show. The road had quite a few hills and I averaged 11.3MPG the entire trip, towing a 6,300lb load. I also have a 1,400lb hauler bed, in place of the stock bed. No smoke of any kind, white, blue or black, and most important of all no coolant puking. I pushed the truck hard too.

I will eventually get the CTD swap done, but at this point, only when the 6.0 gives up the ghost. I'm going to use www.autoworldmt.com to do the job...they've been in the business a long time and know what they're doing.

Hope that helps you with your problems. Good luck.
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:30 AM   #25
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[QUOTE=REDNAX;739694]I bought my 2004 Dodge CTD with 120,000 miles on it in 2007. Just made a solo 614-mile roundtrip. 24 mpg average of both legs at 62 mph. Towing my 34' Silver Streak was 15+ mpg on the same road at the same speed.

For those masochistic Ford guys: Replacing a fuel pump on a Cummins might be an hour or so.

Not the 25 labor hours as on a 6.4 Ford (at $115/hr).

Step One: Remove body from frame .


The actual fuel pump on the Ford 6.4 is mounted on the frame of the truck. What you are refering to is the high pressure pump, kinda the same as a old injecter pump. Removing the body is a collosal waste of time. However by removeing the forward core support, and forward cab mount bolts,loosing the rear cab bolts you can lift the front of the cab about 2 inches which provides tubs of working room to replace the pump. It is still a major job to replace the high pressure pump. In my experiance pump failure on these motors is rare. Adios, John
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Old 08-26-2009, 01:24 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
...Well done thread. Will you be running for mayor of San Angelo, too? [for you non-Texans, that's, "S'nanjuloh"]
Thanks for the kudos. I got my wrist smacked a little for my first reply to your post, concerning our former Mayor's
predilections, so I'll just keep it simple.....no, I will not.
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:03 AM   #27
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At some point, it would seem the number of fleets, and personal use of Diesels will be greatly reduced after issues like this. I mean really, unless you are towing a 15k lb fiver or the like, do you really need the hassle? The up front cost, the complications in cold weather, the smell of the stuff on your shoes nd hands after filling up, is really worth it? My 5.4 with 3.73 rear end has been flawless, I just do not see the return on investment, not to mention the stress when these thing appear to be a potential nightare as they age. If the real argument is they last longer, and as they age the potential for very expensive repairs from intercoolers, turbos not to mention what they do transmisssions and rear ends, I am indeed missing something.

I will be making a decision in next year for potentially a 34 pan american. I am convinced a 250 with a v10 gasser and 4.10 will be the choice.
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:20 AM   #28
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I have 97,000 miles on ours and have only changed oil and filters. I think I will wait till the 100,000 runs out to do any preventive options to the engine. I do have a small problem if anyone has experienced this. If I don't drive the truck for a couple weeks it has a hesitation while driving or idling, like a bad plug wire or filed plug on a gasser, after driving a few miles it clears up. I am wondering if it is an injector? I use Stanadyne additive regularly.

Marvin
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