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Old 10-30-2013, 10:44 PM   #141
2 Rivet Member
page.crow's Avatar
1978 31' Sovereign
Jackson County , Missouri
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 60
Mine's a 2005. I bought it new. I'm the only owner\driver. This was the year I discovered the 6.0 problems. Naturally, mine's out of warranty, being a 2005. I've got 60K on the odo.

The first time I encountered a problem, I was pulling a long hill at full boost, running 70 mph. The ding-chime alerted me to check my gauges. The temp gauge was pegged. I quit the throttle and let the truck roll, keeping the engine running. She recovered quick. I kept speed and boost low and got off the highway. 2 gallons low on coolant. Where did it go?

When it pegged again and I knew I had full coolant, I knew I had a problem. That's when it was my turn to research the 6.0s.

My thoughts: I've seen some cool high-dollar stuff created for the 6.0 PSD. Yet, if you are running a "stock" engine, you can keep it simple and avoid a lot of unnecessary expenses. OTOH, put your money where you really need to on these diesel engines. The factory fuel pressure system works good on a "stock" engine. I agree with the blue spring fix for update. A nice ($700) fuel pressure regulator system with constant flow loop and return is available. Do you need it? No. The blue spring update works great on "stock" diesel engines.

One mechanic recommended welding steel freeze plugs that match size in the exhaust up-tube. That blocks off exhaust gas flow and maintains stock appearance. The stock pipe has more attachment stability.

The antifreeze\coolant bypass filter setup is a MUST for the 6.0 with standard oil cooler. Did you know there is a oil cooler delete, replacing the problem-prone oil cooler, with a air\oil cooler? It's a high-dollar upgrade. Do you need it? No. The stock oil cooler system works fine if it is maintained. These days, an oil cooler costs $115. The air cooler setup costs much more.

There's a youtube video of a Ford tech flushing the 6.0 PSD. He takes drain plugs out of the back of the block. One is easy. The other behind the starter. He runs the chemical flush, then runs the engine above idle and it BLOWS out flush dramatically. You need to see this video. You can do this yourself easy and make sure your engine is flushed well.

My engine had three temp gauge soaring episodes for me to wise-up. As I researched our 6.0 PSD engine, one mechanic said, "You may not have a blown head gasket. You may just have a bad EGR cooler and oil cooler. That won't cost as much to repair."

Now that sounds great, to save some money now. But what if one year from now, those head gaskets do indeed show fail? Then we have to go back into the engine a second time and do the job right, like we should have the first time. That's another $4-7 thousand dollar job.

Since the head gaskets are a common failure, replace them as a routine, along with the ARP stud fix. That is money WELL spent. With big heats, check the head and plane it. It's prudent to just DO the heads now, since you are gonna have to do them later anyway. You are right there doing the EGR cooler, the high pressure oil pump fitting, the oil cooler, the double-insulation on the wiring harness fix, turbo de-coke & oil drain tube fix, fuel pressure spring update, FICM update, water pump, hoses, gaskets & belts. Do it once, all at the same time.

"It is written" that the 2005's are particularly prone to HPOP (high-pressure oil pump-to the fuel injectors) failure. Yet, mine seems to work fine. I know I have to update the STC (snap-to-connect) fitting attached to the pump. Don't you think spending $600 now on a new pump, while the intake in open, is a good idea? Why let it fail in a year and have to do this again. Add the pump to the list... :-/

There is no bigger rip-off in the aftermarket business, than the sales of fancy intake pipe and air cleaners and large diameter exhaust pipe. :-/
How much is that 4", 5", 6" bent-pipe? $1000.00? $2000.00? You gotta be kidding me? <grinning> (I wish I would have come up with this market...) The stock air-cleaner setup on our 6.0 is excellent. Cut holes in the airbox if you want to open it up some. I understand big pipe flows more air. Do we need this on a "stock" truck? Do we need it at all?

I once bought an "Edge Juice with Attitude" tuner. It cost me $1000.00 at Chux Trux. The gauge pod was cool. You could read all those temps and neat digital (small) readouts. None of the other promises came true. There was no more power. It didn't get better gas mileage. When my truck experienced no-start and run-die events, I pulled the Edge and my truck worked perfectly ever since. That money was wasted.

The stock fuel filters setup consists of one filter on the frame rail, inside the "horizontal fuel conditioning module". This also houses a small water separator. The second filter is on top of the engine.

Consider adding a better fuel filter & water separator:

Raycor Fuel Filter Water Separator 120AT in Stock | eBay

The Raycor unit costs $89 and can be frame-mounted before your first filter. It's a better water separator. Some diesel fuel sucks and this is good insurance.

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