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Old 07-15-2011, 11:31 AM   #127
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Originally Posted by Chitown AirStreamers View Post
Are the 2005 6.0's better then the earlier ones?
Yes. But thats not saying much. My brother had aa '05 6.0. He was left stranded at least 5 or 6 times, once requiring a long tow in the middle of nowhere. He bought it because he liked my 7.3. He bailed on it a few years ago. A friend had a '05 which quit while towing on a busy LA freeway resulting in a nighmare for him and his family. He sold it and his trailer and bought a motorhome. Both these trucks were still under powertrain warranty when sold. I have two other good friends with '06 and '07 diesel Fords who have only had minor problems from them.

Frankly I'd avoid this engine like the plague. There's more to a breakdown than a mechanical failure. Even a small part failure can result in tremendous inconvenience, or worse.
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:59 PM   #128
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I would only buy Michelins if it was me. Anything else is a crap shoot IMHO.

Pap
Michelins were my first thought, but I found a number of posts on various forums from people who have had bad experiences with them lately. Still lots of positive reviews of them as well, so I'll probably go with the Michelin LTX M/S 2. I was also considering the Michelin LTX A/T 2, but I don't drive the truck that much in the winter or off road, so I'm not sure that's it's worth the extra cost
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:19 AM   #129
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It's common for a Dodge Cummins to exceed 100k miles on MICHELIN LTX A/S; an OEM spec'd tire that is also LRR (low rolling resistance; higher mpg). A few reports of bad luck do not even dent this tire brand quality. BRIDGESTONE Duravis is another highly regarded tire among commercial users, with several models (but even more expensive).
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:21 AM   #130
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I have a 2005 Dodge 2500 quad cab 4x4 with the cummins. I got about 40k out of the stock Michelins and they had no traction in anything but dry weather. I'd never buy them again.

Since then I've avg about 35-40k on a set if tires. I've had firestone transverse ht's, the bridgestone durvais m700, and I just put on bf goodrich rugged terrain tires.

So far I liked the bridgestone tires the best out but I wouldn't pay 280 bucks a piece for the bridgestones. I'll see how the bf goodrich's do but I've just put 800 miles of towing on them and they have done just fine so far.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:46 PM   #131
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I know this a Ford thread, but I've got the Michelins on my GMC, have about 37K on them, and they still have 65% of the usable tread left. I like them. Maybe a GMC is easier on tires than a Dodge?
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:45 PM   #132
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Thanks for your comments. These last few replies illustrate the problem with choosing tires. There seems to be widely differing experiences with the same tire. Maybe vehicle differences, type of driving, weather conditions, or inconsistency in manufacturing?

A lot of people don't like Continentals, but I've got 73000 miles out of the original tires, and I can't say they've been that bad for driving or handling, even in the snow. But since they're the only tires I've experienced on this truck, maybe I'll realize they weren't so good when I have new ones to compare them to. That would actually be a nice surprise!

At this point I'm pretty sure I'll go with the Michelin LTX M/S 2.
Thanks,
Grant
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:11 PM   #133
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I just bought Michelin LTX AT2 tires and love them....Do NOT buy BF Goodrich All Terrain A/T tires...if yours is a dually, the F350 is too heavy and the rubber compound is too soft....my F350 chewed the BF Goodrich All Terrain A/T tires within 40,000 miles, and I drive like an old man....no offense to old men here .
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Old 07-19-2011, 06:55 AM   #134
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ha. knick knack paddy whack.
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:02 AM   #135
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I put BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO on ours. I've had a lot of good luck with BFG tires in the past, and so far (~2000 miles) these seem decent - haven't broken them loose or anything like that, and they seem fine even at 70-75 mph. (Mine is not a dually.) The guy at the shop said he has them on his Jeep and they handled Washington, DC's Snowmaggedon (two 10-12" snowstorms about 3 days apart, something the DC area is just not equipped to handle) pretty well, too.

The Continentals it came with had something like 90,000 miles on them (wow!), but in my brief experience with them, they seemed slippery as all heck. I'd rather have grip over long life...poor grip means the long life might be irrelevant when someone pulls in front of you or something.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:09 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by StingrayL82 View Post
I did get some great info from a guy on Powerstroke.org, via the Diesel Stop. Here is what he wrote:

"[COLOR=black]...The factory fuel pressure regulator spring is weak and loses its tension over time and can't maintain adequate fuel pressure. There is an updated rebuild kit that uses a better, stronger spring. Installing this spring will bring your fuel pressure up to about 62 psi and solve that. Get a fuel pressure gauge; it's important.
There was a lot of great advice in post #112. Yesterday I finally got around to the blue spring upgrade. There are good instructions on the the Diesel Stop site, but read the whole thread as there are several ways to do this. The only thing I was concerned about the guys who reported the bolts breaking off, and sadly I became one of those guys. Fortunately it was the lower right bolt which is the only one of the four that is open on the back. I was able to drill it out without removing the fuel filter assembly and put in a bolt and nut. Before installing the bolt I had started it up and found that it didn't leak even without the bolt in place.



I've also switched to synthetic oil and installed by-pass coolant and oil filters which I described in post #102.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:42 PM   #137
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Wow, great feedback from my original post; I'm glad I could help.

I spend a lot of time on the Diesel Stop website, getting great information from the guys there. One of the things I've learned is that, while the information from the powerstrokehelp.com guy may have been good at one time, parts of it are outdated, so I would be hesitant to follow all of his advice.

I did get some great info from a guy on Powerstroke.org, via the Diesel Stop. Here is what he wrote:

Ok now you know the problem. Here's the cure: Get a good engine monitoring solution like the Edge Insight, so that you can monitor your ECT and EOT. If those temps get more than 15* apart, at normal cruising when at normal operating temperature, your oil cooler is clogging up.
I ordered a ScanGauge from BulletProofDiesel and used it on a recent trip (without trailer) to monitor the difference in Engine Oil Temperature and Engine Coolant Temperature. The temperature difference was usually 9-10 F and never more than 11. I've been having to add coolant to the degas bottle recently, so I also unplugged the EGR which promptly turned on the check engine light, but seemed to eliminate the coolant loss.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:11 AM   #138
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I too own the 6.0 L power stroke. A 2005 F350 with 174,000 miles on it. I had all the problems ( or most of them anyway) posted here. Turbo, EGR cooler, oil cooler, both heads, injectors, etc. Unfortunately most of the issues started after the warranty ran out to the tune of $12K. What I had done was an EGR delete kit, heads replaced, SCT chip to turn off the EGR code and program a tow/haul mode with Jake break. The reprogramming slightly increased the horsepower/torque. That was almost two years ago and the truck runs better than new. Would I buy a used 6.0 knowing what I know now, no way. Even though I only had to replace one injector since the upgrade I still do not trust the truck 100%.

Bill
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:45 PM   #139
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Wow, a lot of good info has been posted on here in the last few years. I just recently did the blue spring update, to keep my injectors happy. Just recently, my cheapo plastic radiator got a hairline crack at the top, near where the hose connects to the nipple....a common problem I'm told. I'm buying an aluminum radiator from BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0 and 6.4 The cost of the radiator is just slightly more than what my local stealership is trying to sell the Ford version. While I'm at it, the top and bottom hoses will get replaced too. I have 168,000 on the clock and have no plans to get a new truck, especially given the cost of a new King Ranch!
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:12 PM   #140
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While I admit to not having read all 10 pages, I did read your first post, and please allow me to say "well done, sir!" Your post very succinctly sums up most of the problems the 6.0PSD had. Not sure if it was mentioned (again, didn't read all the way through and I presume pages 2-8 are just general bashing of Ford and somewhere on page 9 it turns into bashing of tires) that the poor design International/Ford came up with for the EGR cooling tube was a last minute thing, handed down by the Gov't to deal with stringent emissions.

Anyway, I'm a proud owner of a dreaded 04 6.0 with 130k on the clock and I've done the coolant filter, EGR delete, cat delete, 4" exhaust, SCT tuning (with Gearhead's SRL tune as the daily driver), and lastly the blue spring mod. Now it's a BLAST to drive, I'm getting 21-23 mpg on the highway, 14-15 towing the Aistream and I'm not worried about warping heads or clogged coolers/lines/etc.

As you mentioned, the cost of new trucks as opposed to keeping this beauty on the road is insane. Finding the right one that's been cared for and maintained properly is key and, if you do minimal work to them, they're a great engine that should last for a very long time. They're quiet (when compared to Cummins or the beloved 7.3), powerful and I love the turbo whistle of a cat free 6.0.

I couldn't be happier with the truck and, should I wrap this one around a pole, I'll be on the look out for another 6.0, with my trusty ScanGauge in hand, mind you.

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