Basic Towing Questions and answers for tow vehicles

[dznf0g]

Here is a brief, very basic explanation out of an owner manual. Note that the brake apply happens with each wheel independently, as required, at a very fast rate of speed.

"Trailer Sway Control (TSC)
Non-hybrid vehicles with StabiliTrak have a Trailer Sway Control (TSC) feature. If the vehicle is towing a trailer and the system detects that the trailer is swaying, the vehicle brakes are applied without the driver pressing the brake pedal. If the vehicle is equipped with the Integrated Trailer Brake Control (ITBC) system, StabiliTrak may also apply the trailer brakes. The TCS/StabiliTrak warning light will flash on the instrument panel cluster to notify the driver to reduce speed. If the trailer continues to sway, StabiliTrak will reduce engine torque to help slow the vehicle. See StabiliTrak® System for more information."

[Gene]

dzn', sounds like anti-skid control. Thanks for the explanation. If this is the same as anti-skid control, that has been available for quite a few years by another name.

The difference may be that the Ford system will slow down the tow vehicle if the driver does not slow down, but that is opposite recommendations what to do if there is a serious sway problem. We have been told to speed up while applying the trailer brakes manually to straighten a swaying trailer.

Gene

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

dzn', sounds like anti-skid control. Thanks for the explanation. If this is the same as anti-skid control, that has been available for quite a few years by another name.

The difference may be that the Ford system will slow down the tow vehicle if the driver does not slow down, but that is opposite recommendations what to do if there is a serious sway problem. We have been told to speed up while applying the trailer brakes manually to straighten a swaying trailer.

Gene

It's anti-lock brakes and stability control on steroids. Added software and sensors to detect trailer sway and application of brakes individually to counteract the sway, not slow the vehicle by braking necessarily.

The GM system limits speed too. I think that it balances ALL the driver and vehicle mass inputs and applies the appropriate action. I believe your action of accelerating while the truck does all it's stuff is still the appropriate action. It just will limit the torque (by throttle input) to the appropriate level, while applying the trailer brakes (ITBC only) and TV brakes individually.

I'll tell you also, there has been a lot of conversation in the industry about steer by wire eventually coming to market. If that happens, you won't need to do jack during a sway event, except maybe punch the throttle.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by bde

I am going to continue the research and thanks to all for the feedback, I will need to change out the hitch to a Torklift that is specific to the Super Truss Extension,may add sway control and weight distribution we will see. I spoke with another "hitch expert" who has used this product and told me that it will do the job. I will keep all advised and pull the Airstream both ways, with and without the extension and advise results, stay tuned.

Brian

The Hensley and ProPride products are both good. I have the ProPride and there is extensive discussion of the pros and cons elsewhere on these boards.

Due to their design they will tend to extend the trailer somewhat to the rear while towing in a straight line but it is unlikely that you will pick up much clearance during turns.

Regardless

[Gene]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I'll tell you also, there has been a lot of conversation in the industry about steer by wire eventually coming to market. If that happens, you won't need to do jack during a sway event, except maybe punch the throttle.

Steer by wire scares me. I know Google has some cars driving around Cal. and Nevada with no one in them, but it is hard for me to think they can see all the things I can see and makes all the countless decisions a driver has to make in a bad situation. But I also realize people often do not make the right decisions either. Will steer by wire sacrifice a dog or a small pedestrian to avoid hitting another car? If the computer goes bad, what then? The cars that slow down when you are too close to the car in front may make it difficult to pass someone unless the driver can override it.

I'm sure the guys that design these things think about all this, but whether they solve all of it and the computer can handle it make me wonder whether the computer will be so big there'll be no room for passengers. I wonder how my little iPad can do all it does too. I think there must be little people in the iPad doing all that stuff. Since the battery in the Ipad is half of the inside, those people must be very, very small. I've been reading stories about cars doing the driving for many decades. The last one said they will be able to fit twice as many cars on the clogged highways with computers making more precise decisions. I wonder what happens to the vehicles without that—do they have to take a back road? It would be like sitting in the passenger seat when someone else is driving who I don't trust—I'd be hitting the imaginary brake frequently. Maybe I'm just a Luddite who likes driving too much.

Gene

[dznf0g]

With steer by wire, you are still in control, as you are now. It is not auto pilot. It would be like the newer TVs with no throttle linkage....just wires running to a throttle motor.
With steer by wire, you would have no steering shaft nor gear box, nor pinion (rack and pinion). It would just be wires running from behind the wheel to an electric steer motor on the front end linkage. It of course would have redundant circuits like an airplane does and your throttle does.

The thing is, it would lighten a vehicle by about 50 - 80 lbs. And a bunch less moving parts.

Incidentally, I think NHTSA is about as scared as your are. It would take a lot of modification of FMVSS to get it done. Who will win....EPA or NHTSA?

[Gene]

dzn, thanks for explaining that. I think I may have known that before I forgot it. It still scares me.

Gene

[bde]

I agree that both the Pro Pride and the Hensley will manage the sway and do extend back further than a traditional hitch with does help when we have the tailgate dow, just not enough to be safe. As we will be driving with the tailgate down when we take our Harley we estimated that we will need an additional 4 inches to be on the safe side in clearance and the people at Pro Pride will design this for me. We picked up our King Ranch (love the truck) and will be taking the truck to the Airstream dealer,verify the exact measurements with a Airstream hooked up and than order our hitch, will keep all posted on exact measurements and specs. Great advise from all which helped us go in the right direction.
Brian

[Airtrekker]

So as I understand it a new 2012 F250 with sway control is not enough by itself
to control sway. I now have a new 27' Classic and a new 2012 F250 CC diesel.
The Classic is : 9,000 lbs GVWR / 8,800 Lb chassis ; 800 lb hitch weight
and the F250 tow rating is 14,000 lbs. As recommended I will give Propride a
call however what will I be looking for? I do not wish to rely on the truck alone.
What all do I need for a class 4 haul hitch? ( as you can tell I am a newbie).
I plan on doing full time boondocking which will add a lot of weight. I will do
my best at keeping the weight down but should I get a hitch rated more than 800 lbs?
Also: my truck has a rear camera. I wish to add a camera to my AS. Can anyone tell me if the AS rear camera can be hooked up to the trucks system?
Or will I need to simply find a spot on my dash for the AS rear camera screen?

[Jammer]

Airtrekker

You need a receiver rated for at least 9,000 pounds, and the hitch from ProPride. It is likely that your truck came with a suitable receiver from the factory, if not you can get them from many sources. You can ask propride for their recommendations but I think you'll want the 1000 pound WD bars.

If your receiver is the unusual 2.5" size (possible but unlikely), just let ProPride know when you order from them so they can supply the proper size "stinger."

I have a 30' classic and it rarely goes over the scales at much more than 8,000 pounds even with a lot of stuff in it so I don't think you'll have a problem with weight.

No idea on the camera but maybe someone else knows.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Airtrekker

So as I understand it a new 2012 F250 with sway control is not enough by itself
to control sway. I now have a new 27' Classic and a new 2012 F250 CC diesel.
The Classic is : 9,000 lbs GVWR / 8,800 Lb chassis ; 800 lb hitch weight
and the F250 tow rating is 14,000 lbs. As recommended I will give Propride a
call however what will I be looking for? I do not wish to rely on the truck alone.
What all do I need for a class 4 haul hitch? ( as you can tell I am a newbie).
I plan on doing full time boondocking which will add a lot of weight. I will do
my best at keeping the weight down but should I get a hitch rated more than 800 lbs?
Also: my truck has a rear camera. I wish to add a camera to my AS. Can anyone tell me if the AS rear camera can be hooked up to the trucks system?
Or will I need to simply find a spot on my dash for the AS rear camera screen?

Hitches always bring out the best in us...that and truck preferences!

My choice would be Reese dual cam, 10,000# shank, ball and head with 800# weight distribution spring bars.

I have heard of folks hooking their camera to the onboard monitor, but I believe it takes some substantial electronics knowledge and some dash surgery.

[Gene]

I have a vague memory is seeing a post or two several years ago about Airstreams (or some models) having factory installed wiring for a rear camera. I haven't seen anything in years, but a search of the forum may show up something. But here's a short thread that may help a little: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f317...ons-75378.html A more detailed search may show up something more.

You could do your own wiring, though a line carrying the signal to the truck might be quite a chore. Running 12 v. power to a camera would be simpler because it only has to go to the 12 v. fuse panel.

A wireless camera hard wired to 12 v. would seem the best solution. There have been many cheap cameras with bad video, so I'd check reviews thoroughly. This will not be cheap, especially if you have the whole thing installed by someone else.

Mirrors and a spotter when backing work for us.

Gene

[bde]

Originally Posted by Airtrekker

So as I understand it a new 2012 F250 with sway control is not enough by itself
to control sway. I now have a new 27' Classic and a new 2012 F250 CC diesel.
The Classic is : 9,000 lbs GVWR / 8,800 Lb chassis ; 800 lb hitch weight
and the F250 tow rating is 14,000 lbs. As recommended I will give Propride a
call however what will I be looking for? I do not wish to rely on the truck alone.
What all do I need for a class 4 haul hitch? ( as you can tell I am a newbie).
I plan on doing full time boondocking which will add a lot of weight. I will do
my best at keeping the weight down but should I get a hitch rated more than 800 lbs?
Also: my truck has a rear camera. I wish to add a camera to my AS. Can anyone tell me if the AS rear camera can be hooked up to the trucks system?
Or will I need to simply find a spot on my dash for the AS rear camera screen?

Can not advise on cameras.
From what I have learned, (as this is all new to us as well) we are moving forward with sway control hitch and will buy either the Hensley or Pro Pride, both will do the job. We will be pulling a 30' Flying Cloud and prefer to go the extra step to limit sway.
We also bought the F250 King Ranch and really enjoy the drive. Good luck with your decision.

Best
Brian

[SoCal Drive]

[JFScheck]

Originally Posted by Jammer

You can ask propride for their recommendations but I think you'll want the 1000 pound WD bars.

Thinking Sean will say 1,400 pound bars. Nice thing about ProPride, you dial in what you need so even with 1,400 pound bars, you can dial light and go 900lbs....

If it were 400lbs empty then I would suggest the 1,000 pound bars.

Like Jammer said - call up Sean, or drop him an E-Mail - Pro Pride's support is Tops!!!

[Luigi123]

Help. Do I need to trade my 2011 F150 6.2 Platinum in on a new F250 diesel to handle a new 2008 30ft Classic Ltd AS. I know the engine strong enough but concerned about the suspension.

[drboyd]

Originally Posted by Luigi123

Help. Do I need to trade my 2011 F150 6.2 Platinum in on a new F250 diesel to handle a new 2008 30ft Classic Ltd AS. I know the engine strong enough but concerned about the suspension.

Actually, no. Instead, you should sell me the Platinum for $500 and then go buy the diesel.

[urnmor]

Probably not but that diesel sure is nice

[m.hony]

Originally Posted by Luigi123

Help. Do I need to trade my 2011 F150 6.2 Platinum in on a new F250 diesel to handle a new 2008 30ft Classic Ltd AS. I know the engine strong enough but concerned about the suspension.

No. That truck will do just fine. Note my avatar and signature.

[Gene]

Luigi', have you checked the tow ratings for your suspension? They should be in the owner's manual.

Gene