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Old 11-03-2011, 10:24 PM   #15
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Just looked up your tow rating on trailerlife.com (http://www.trailerlife.com/Towing-Gu...-Towing-Guide/) You're limited to 7716 pounds, as long as trailer comes with trailer brakes, which every new Airstream trailer has. Airstream you're considering (Airstream, Inc :: Specifications) has a "base weight" 6322, so you're under your tow rating, by almost 1400 pounds. Of course, options on trailer, as well as any items you store in trailer, along with water in tank, fresh, gray and black, along with propane will make your base weight higher.
My suggestion would be to see if the dealer could weigh the trailer so you'd have an idea of your weight, before you start stocking it with necessary items (clothes, pots, pans, food, etc.)
Depending on your plans for travel, your LR3 may be the perfect tow vehicle, or if you're heading for the Rockies, may not be the perfect tow vehicle. Just my opinion on the LR3. But, for all practical purposes, your LR3 is within the tow ratings.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:11 AM   #16
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Thank You, appreciate the feedback, I have also heard that the issue may not be the tow capacity but the short wheel base on the LR3, still checking.
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Old 11-04-2011, 10:28 AM   #17
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bde,

The 30' FC GVWR is 8,880 lbs., significantly more than the tow capacity of your vehicle. If you bring few clothes or food, leave the fresh water tank empty and empty the black tank every day, you could get below the capacity of the Land Rover. You would have little margin for error and would be maxing out the Land Rover. It is important to check the payload of the LR to see how much you can bring in that.

The LR vehicle has a reputation for unreliability, so buying a tow vehicle with a better reliability would be a good move. Getting stuck by the side of the road with a 30' trailer is not a lot of fun.

The LR's short wheel base may also be a factor. Tractor trailers have much longer trailers than tractors and most don't jackknife, but some do.

Gene
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Old 11-05-2011, 01:47 PM   #18
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Thank you all for your great advise, we have decided to move forward and sell the LR3 and get a Ford Diesel F250.
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:40 PM   #19
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Good call on F250 truck.. There is an entire thread recently updated on LR3's as tow vehicles.. Short wheelbase and limited hitch weight are both serious problems for a 30' Airstream...

Good news is that any 3/4 ton truck with average to long wheelbase will work for your trailer.. Need not be diesel, need not be new, although new diesels are quiet and very luxurious, if expensive...

If you haven't bought truck already, viable options include:

Chevy Suburban 2500 or GMC Yukon XL 2500
Ford Excursion (Diesel or V10 preferred..)
Ford F250 Pickups - any cab or bed

I agree with views of other posters, that Truck is afterthought once you've found the right trailer.. There are a lot of ways to solve towing problem, but not a lot of perfect matches in trailer, floorplan, decor, etc... You can find decent tow vehicle for $5K or $50K and anywhere in between... Good luck!
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:24 PM   #20
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bde, there are lots of threads discussing the pros and cons of diesel vs. gas engines. Modern gas engines have plenty of power to tow a 30' trailer, lower initial price and lower maintenance costs. If you want to keep the truck for hundreds of thousands of miles, costs may equal out, but most people don't keep a truck that long.

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Old 11-10-2011, 12:19 PM   #21
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Gene, thank you, I am going to look closer at a gas vs Diesel, saves over $7000.00

Brian
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:51 PM   #22
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Update note to all that provided great thoughts,

We have moved ahead and purchased a F250 Crew Cab Diesel. The room in the back crew was much better as well as the diesel was very quiet compared to the GMAC. I know trucks are individual choices but after exhaustive research I felt the Ford overall was a better fit.
I have never spent so much time on any vehicle decision as I was so out of my understanding of all the different choices. I went with The F250, knowing it may be more truck than we need but would take care of our needs.. I hope we made the right choice and are looking forward to picking up our new 30 foot Flying Cloud in january 2012.

Also, info to note, we were able to get the 6.6 bed to haul our Harley, learned that you can get a Hitch Extender that will allow you to tow with the Tailgate down, called the Super Truss from Tork Lift. Extends out 24 to 28 inches and can handle the weight no problem. Happy Holidays

Brian
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Old 12-16-2011, 05:33 PM   #23
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Brian

Congratulations on your purchase.

I have seen the hitch extenders from Tork Lift. I would suggest extreme caution when using one with a 30' Airstream. Even if the hitch can handle the weight, moving the pivot point rearward will adversely affect stability.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:14 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer
Brian

Congratulations on your purchase.

I have seen the hitch extenders from Tork Lift. I would suggest extreme caution when using one with a 30' Airstream. Even if the hitch can handle the weight, moving the pivot point rearward will adversely affect stability.
Thanks for the info, i did ask the gents, who work with hitches and the mechanics at Sky River RV this question and both , after doing some research indicated it would be fine, based on the rating of the hitch extension. I hope they were correct as the one Gent has well over 20 years working in tow issues and hitch. I am going to make another call to Airstream to see if they have any other thoughts as the initial comments, were positive.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:54 PM   #25
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I, too, would be concerned about towing stability when extending the pivot point any further than absolutely necessary behind the tow vehicle. When I first purchased my Overlander in 1995, I tried to save a little money by utilizing the Reese hitch head that I had utilized with my Nomad and 1983 GMC G20 Conversion Van . . . it was a special hitch head that extended 8" beyond the receiver to eliminate problems with the spare tire that was mounted on the van's rear door -- back in the days prior to the Internet, I had never given any thought to why the Nomad always had sway problems, but I now realize that this movement of the pivot point may have been the cuprit. When this hitch head was applied first to my 1995 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 Club Cab Pickup and three years later to my 1999 Suburban/Airstream Overlander combination I had a combination that always felt like it was on the verge of serious sway. I never made this connection between pivot point and the extended hitch until a couple of years later when I mentioned that I felt the need for sway control on my Airstream while I was having an experienced Airstream service technician make some repairs . . . he immediately looked at my hitch and told me that he thought that a standard Reese hitch head would solve more than 90% of my trouble . . . had him install a standard Reese hitch head and the problem disappeared. As additional insurance, I added Reese Dual Cam Sway Control less than a year later just before I departed on a six-week trip that included a stop at the WBCCI International Rally in Boise, ID (1998) -- I have happily utilized that same basic hitch setup since 1998.

Good luck with your research and investigation!

Kevin
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:08 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander64
I, too, would be concerned about towing stability when extending the pivot point any further than absolutely necessary behind the tow vehicle. When I first purchased my Overlander in 1995, I tried to save a little money by utilizing the Reese hitch head that I had utilized with my Nomad and 1983 GMC G20 Conversion Van . . . it was a special hitch head that extended 8" beyond the receiver to eliminate problems with the spare tire that was mounted on the van's rear door -- back in the days prior to the Internet, I had never given any thought to why the Nomad always had sway problems, but I now realize that this movement of the pivot point may have been the cuprit. When this hitch head was applied first to my 1995 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 Club Cab Pickup and three years later to my 1999 Suburban/Airstream Overlander combination I had a combination that always felt like it was on the verge of serious sway. I never made this connection between pivot point and the extended hitch until a couple of years later when I mentioned that I felt the need for sway control on my Airstream while I was having an experienced Airstream service technician make some repairs . . . he immediately looked at my hitch and told me that he thought that a standard Reese hitch head would solve more than 90% of my trouble . . . had him install a standard Reese hitch head and the problem disappeared. As additional insurance, I added Reese Dual Cam Sway Control less than a year later just before I departed on a six-week trip that included a stop at the WBCCI International Rally in Boise, ID (1998) -- I have happily utilized that same basic hitch setup since 1998.

Good luck with your research and investigation!

Kevin
Thanks Kevin,

If anybody has a interest please go to Torklift.com and check out the Super Truss extension, would always appreciate thoughts as this is what the Gents at Sky River suggested as a proven solution.

Best, Brian
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:09 AM   #27
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It sounds like the Gents at Sky River are advising the Torklift extension is capable of holding up the Airstream weight (that may be true but I wonder if the factory Ford receiver can).

The issue with the heavy Airstream is sway control or stability. Sideways movement transferred to the truck will be greatly amplified by extending the pivot point farther BEHIND the truck. For example, this would be exactly opposite the effects of the exceptionally stable Hensley/ProPride hitch.

It is amazing what contraptions RV dealers will send customers out the door with in order to make a sale.

doug k
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:53 AM   #28
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All I could add is to try towing your rig without the hitch extender so you get a feel for how it handles. Then load in your Harley and hook up the hitch extender and try towing and see if it feels squirrely.
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