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74Argosy24MH · 11-08-2004, 05:55 PM

Is there an IGN terminal on the fuse block?

John

Tarheel · 11-08-2004, 07:07 PM

Granted I have a 92 antique Dodge, but I went to the fuse box and located the fuse for the radio and jumped a line there for my cb so that it would be switched. How many amps does your pump take? I would think that you could up the size of the fuse and pray that you never have a short in your radio line.

Pahaska · 11-08-2004, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hd

john
what you may want to do is run a fused line directly from the battery. you might save yourself alot of trouble trying to figure the system out. it is complex to say the least, try adding a set of fog lamps to a stock truck!

john

They specify a "switched" wire, hot only when the key is on. From that I gather that the valve may pull some current in one state or another.

I'll check that out first. If it pulls current only when changing states, I can probably use the hot wire that I used to test it for operation. No one is likely to switch it by mistake since the switch is buried deep in the unused slot beside the left air vent.

Right now, I'm thinking there may possibly be a switched wire going into the headlight switch module, right below the switch I added.

Oh for the days when there was a big bundle of wire back of the dash panel and a wiring diagram to figure out what each wire did and what color it was.

Pahaska · 11-08-2004, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 74Argosy24MH

Is there an IGN terminal on the fuse block?

John

Not identified as such, unfortunately.

Pahaska · 11-08-2004, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tarheel

Granted I have a 92 antique Dodge, but I went to the fuse box and located the fuse for the radio and jumped a line there for my cb so that it would be switched. How many amps does your pump take? I would think that you could up the size of the fuse and pray that you never have a short in your radio line.

I think I saw a spacer that goes under a fuse at Pep Boys that allows a tap off either side. The wire to my switch has an inline fuse so that I could safely tap off the hot side of the radio fuse.

Pahaska · 11-09-2004, 04:38 PM

The switchover works just great, although I had one unscheduled stop by the mailboxes to bleed some more air from the system. Boy, that steering gets hard when the engine quits! Between all the piping and the Cat filter, there is plenty of places in the system for air to hide. Once I got it bled, I drove about 5 miles to the station, half-filled the aux tank, and put about another 15 miles on the truck, trying both tanks as I went along. Interesting that the switchover is instantaneous, but fuel gage takes many minutes to show the new tank level.

I had one drip at a return line junction that I hope is solved. I'll know in the morning if there is no spot under the truck.

I found that the valve, once switched, is infinite resistance and quite high resistance even when switching. I have it permanently attached to a non-switched hot line with an inline fuse. I just put the dash panel back on and I hope I am finished.

john hd · 11-09-2004, 05:28 PM

john

if you engage migs do you have to drop the aux. tank?

john

Pahaska · 11-09-2004, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hd

john

if you engage migs do you have to drop the aux. tank?

john

Let's see, I would have to roll it upside down to get it outs there.

Darn! I forgot to fasten it in with exploding bolts.

Guess I'm gonna have to engage with the tank still on.

BTW: I never did get to drop any tanks. Came close once, though, when I lost an engine.

john hd · 11-09-2004, 07:55 PM

john

Pahaska · 11-10-2004, 11:34 AM

This is the Caterpillar filter that is installed after the switchover valve and is in line with both tanks. There is a thick steel plate in front of the filter to protect it from road debris. This filter is a lot finer than the GM filter in the engine compartment. Hopefully it will pay off in injector life.

It took a while to get all the air out even though I filled the new filter with diesel before installing it. The air was probably in the long lines getting up to the filter.

john hd · 11-10-2004, 04:16 PM

john

two suggestions.

a mud flap to protect the filter from debris flung from the rear tire, stones flying off the tire could get it.

a bleeder in the line after the filter, you can open it and turn the key on allowing the lift pump in the tank to purge it without starting the truck. i have one of these from the factory on my '97 turbo 6.5. it also doubles as the water drain. makes filter changes easy.

john

Pahaska · 11-10-2004, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hd

john

a bleeder in the line after the filter, you can open it and turn the key on allowing the lift pump in the tank to purge it without starting the truck. i have one of these from the factory on my '97 turbo 6.5. it also doubles as the water drain. makes filter changes easy.
john

There are no lift pumps in the tanks on the current diesels. There is a single pump at the engine and that's it. So the bleeder at the filter (I was aware of it) is useless. In fact, I had opened the bleeder to drain the lines when I temporarily removed the filter to put in the transfer valve.

The only way to purge air is a hand pump on the filter in the engine compartment. There is a bleeder screw there and you push the pump until solid diesel comes out.

john hd · 11-10-2004, 04:28 PM

so much for that idea!

how 'bout the mud flap?

john

Pahaska · 11-10-2004, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hd

so much for that idea!

how 'bout the mud flap?

john

The filter you see is new. The previous Cat filter was on there for almost a year, almost since the truck was new. I decided that since I had to replumb it, it was a good time to change it. The kit manufacturer recommended a new filter once a year. The old filter can was pretty dirty, but had no noticeable dents or marks from stones.

I had been thinking of wrapping foam around it, though, for some protection.