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Old 11-07-2004, 11:58 AM   #15
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Brohloff,

The Bosch High-Pressure Common-Rail Fuel Ijection System is used only in the newer diesel engines. Fuel pressures in this system run as high as 23,000-psi. The system and its associated electronics are attached to the engine which results in a great amount of heat generation.

As I recall, the fuel pressure for gassers run between 51 and 100 psi and a rather simple control system that does not subject the controling circuits to extreme heat. Cooling is not required for gassers.
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Old 11-07-2004, 03:01 PM   #16
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Mostly done

I have the transfer valve mounted and mostly plumbed. I haven't cut into the return line at the fuel cooler yet and I need another piece of 7/16" fuel line to finish plumbing in the Caterpiller filter.

I ran into town and the several places I tried don't carry 7/16" fuel line. Most places were closed, it being Sunday. I'll have to go back to NAPA in the morning.

Unfortunately, the almost 5-year-old battery in my Buick picked this afternoon in town to short a cell, so I don't even have a vehicle that runs at the moment. I'll have to take the wife's car in the morning to get a new battery and some fuel line.

The shot is of the mostly plumbed valve. The shiny stuff on the frame is diesel fuel that spilled when I cut the supply line. I have the two return lines and one line from the Cat filter to install and I need to hook up the rest of the wiring. Should be done by noon tomorrow.
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Old 11-07-2004, 04:15 PM   #17
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I'd love to see a piping diagram of your system. No matter how I install it I will have to cut a hole in the cap or side of the bed for filling, the cap is permanent as far as I am concerned. Then I would have to drill a hole in the floor or the side of the truck bed for the fuel lines.
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Old 11-07-2004, 05:40 PM   #18
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One hole

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel
I'd love to see a piping diagram of your system. No matter how I install it I will have to cut a hole in the cap or side of the bed for filling, the cap is permanent as far as I am concerned. Then I would have to drill a hole in the floor or the side of the truck bed for the fuel lines.
The kit requires a 1 3/4" hole in the side of the bed, about 6" below the top of the bed and right under the forward stake pocket. The hole is grommeted and there are 3 lines and the fuel gage wire that go through it; a feed line, a return line, and a vent line.

The thing that makes my installation a bit more complex is the Cat filter that I have mounted ahead of the wheel well. The feed line comes out of the valve and has to go to the Cat filter and then back down to the cut feed line. Nice thing is that I was able to cut the feed line only once instead of twice. It's hard to cut the lines because you can't swing the tubing cutter a full circle. This also leads to an arm bath in diesel since the line doesn't separate cleanly and it takes some time to separate it and get plugs on the ends.

I went back out and finished all of the plumbing except the 7/16" line from the Cat filter that I have to buy tomorrow. I also finished all of the wiring except for 2 grounds and finding a switched wire behind the dash to power the valve.

I also spent almost an hour trying to get the battery out of my Buick Regal. I have never seen anything like it. I had to take off the brace strut, partially disconnect the main fuse panel, and wiggle the battery out on end. Thank goodness it is a sealed battery. There wasn't a clue in the manual.
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Old 11-08-2004, 05:54 PM   #19
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It is done, almost!

I spent a frustrating time trying to bleed the system. When I disconnected the Caterpillar filter a few days ago, I opened the bleed on the filter so that as much fuel as possible would run back into the tank. Guess what? I forgot that the bleed was open. I pumped until I was blue in the face and all I got was bubbles.

Once I closed the bleed, it was no time at all until the beast started.

The only thing remaining is to find a switched wire somewhere to tie into the switch. I did find an always hot wire and used it to test the switchover. The gage follows the tank in use and it runs nicely on both tanks (once I finally got it bled).

Anyone out there have any good ideas concerning where I can find a switched wire; one that it hot only when the key is on? I even tried removing the radio, but the wires are too tight to get behind it. I'll even fish a wire into the engine compartment if necessary.
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Old 11-08-2004, 06:53 PM   #20
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john

this may not be an easy task, most of the accessory wiring in modern chevys run through the body control module. basicly, a computer controls all of the switched loads in the truck. you can confirm this by noticing any accessory light or device will turn itself off after 20 min. dome light, radio, headlights etc.

what you may want to do is run a fused line directly from the battery. you might save yourself alot of trouble trying to figure the system out. it is complex to say the least, try adding a set of fog lamps to a stock truck!

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Old 11-08-2004, 06:55 PM   #21
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Is there an IGN terminal on the fuse block?

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Old 11-08-2004, 08:07 PM   #22
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Granted I have a 92 antique Dodge, but I went to the fuse box and located the fuse for the radio and jumped a line there for my cb so that it would be switched. How many amps does your pump take? I would think that you could up the size of the fuse and pray that you never have a short in your radio line.
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Old 11-08-2004, 10:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
john
what you may want to do is run a fused line directly from the battery. you might save yourself alot of trouble trying to figure the system out. it is complex to say the least, try adding a set of fog lamps to a stock truck!

john
They specify a "switched" wire, hot only when the key is on. From that I gather that the valve may pull some current in one state or another.

I'll check that out first. If it pulls current only when changing states, I can probably use the hot wire that I used to test it for operation. No one is likely to switch it by mistake since the switch is buried deep in the unused slot beside the left air vent.

Right now, I'm thinking there may possibly be a switched wire going into the headlight switch module, right below the switch I added.

Oh for the days when there was a big bundle of wire back of the dash panel and a wiring diagram to figure out what each wire did and what color it was.
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Old 11-08-2004, 10:49 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Is there an IGN terminal on the fuse block?

John
Not identified as such, unfortunately.
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Old 11-08-2004, 10:52 PM   #25
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Not a bad idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel
Granted I have a 92 antique Dodge, but I went to the fuse box and located the fuse for the radio and jumped a line there for my cb so that it would be switched. How many amps does your pump take? I would think that you could up the size of the fuse and pray that you never have a short in your radio line.
I think I saw a spacer that goes under a fuse at Pep Boys that allows a tap off either side. The wire to my switch has an inline fuse so that I could safely tap off the hot side of the radio fuse.
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:38 PM   #26
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Tested and true

The switchover works just great, although I had one unscheduled stop by the mailboxes to bleed some more air from the system. Boy, that steering gets hard when the engine quits! Between all the piping and the Cat filter, there is plenty of places in the system for air to hide. Once I got it bled, I drove about 5 miles to the station, half-filled the aux tank, and put about another 15 miles on the truck, trying both tanks as I went along. Interesting that the switchover is instantaneous, but fuel gage takes many minutes to show the new tank level.

I had one drip at a return line junction that I hope is solved. I'll know in the morning if there is no spot under the truck.

I found that the valve, once switched, is infinite resistance and quite high resistance even when switching. I have it permanently attached to a non-switched hot line with an inline fuse. I just put the dash panel back on and I hope I am finished.
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:28 PM   #27
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if you engage migs do you have to drop the aux. tank?

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Old 11-09-2004, 08:11 PM   #28
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Quote:
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john

if you engage migs do you have to drop the aux. tank?

john
Let's see, I would have to roll it upside down to get it outs there.

Darn! I forgot to fasten it in with exploding bolts.

Guess I'm gonna have to engage with the tank still on.

BTW: I never did get to drop any tanks. Came close once, though, when I lost an engine.
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