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Old 01-07-2015, 09:31 PM   #1
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Anyone towing with a RAM 1500?

I've been planning on buying an AS for awhile but haven't pulled the trigger yet. When I bought my last truck, a 2013 RAM 1500 I bought it with the idea of having an AS behind it.

I'm a novice and have been trying to figure out how much of a trailer I can tow. Confusing to say the least.

My RAM is a 5.7 V8, 3.55 ratio rear, 8 speed tranny, crew with Rambox. According to the tow rating I can tow a maximum of 8,150. My GCWR=14, 150, GVWR=6,800, payload=970.

I am considering a 27' FC FB Twin, unit weight=5,868, GVWR=7,600, hitch weight=791.

I know this topic seems to be beaten to death and I'm sorry to have to ask again. My question is can I tow this AS with my RAM?

And thank you in advance!
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:19 PM   #2
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2013 Ram 1500 V8 5.7 8 spd 3.9 axle for more than a year between FL and NY no complaints but not yet a good steep mountain test with 2014 FC 30--has Rambox and air suspension also
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:25 PM   #3
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Hi, are you sure of your specs? Your tongue weight will wipe out your payload.
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:29 PM   #4
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We do, very nice towing truck with a ProPride hitch and light loads in truck and front of trailer. Our payload is 1365, rear axle also 3.55. We have traveled cross-country many times with this combo in all kinds of terrain, it is a pleasure to tow and decent on gas. When we arrive at a destination it is easy to get around.
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Old 01-07-2015, 10:56 PM   #5
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Yes your Ram can tow.

Do you have the trailer tow package with oil cooler and integrated trailer brake?

I have those on my 2011 ram and they work well. I have the 3.91 rear end and a 5 speed automatic. I am pulling a 30 foot Flying Cloud and pulled a 25 foot Safari before that. I tow about 9000 miles per year.

You can tow a 27 with your Ram but you will probably be at your payload limit for the truck even if you are below the GCWR and Towing limits. Fuel, passengers, tongue weight, and stuff in the cab and bed of the truck add up quickly.

Your rear axle is geared a little high but the 8 speed transmission will help you overcome that. What you will notice is that you are downshifting more for grades and spending more time in the lower gears.

Plan on changing transmission fluid more frequently than you would if you did not tow.

I upgraded my shocks to Bilstein rear and KYB front. When the stock units wore out, should have done that sooner.
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, are you sure of your specs? Your tongue weight will wipe out your payload.
I forgot to mention that I purchased the truck with the trailer towing package and air suspension system.

The payload is from the RAM spec sheet directly so I'm assuming it is correct.

What happens if the payload is exceeded? And how does a weight distribution hitch factor in the calculation or doesn't it?
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:05 AM   #7
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A weight distribution hitch will transfer some of the tongue weight back onto the trailer if it is setup right, max of about 1/3.

I think Ram is VERY conservative of their weight figures, but I would be most concerned about exceeding max axle weight ratings, especially rear axle.

I do have friends that tow goose neck stock trailers, normally reserved for 3/4 ton trucks, and do it fine by adding air bags to the rear coils. They've been doing it for several years between them without incident. The stock trailers even loaded are not much heavier than your Airstream would be, but are much heavier on the hitch, so I know they are going over the payload spec.
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:47 AM   #8
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Look on your truck's door sill for the payload of your particular truck. The 970 wouldn't surprise me with the many options you have. I agree with SteveH, a good weight distribution hitch will distribute the trailer hitch weight and some truck bed load to front truck axle as well as trailer axles.

Don't exceed axle ratings (also on door sticker) or tire ratings. We weighed our Ram truck and trailer to ensure these were not over and.

Based on my experience with this truck using different w.d. hitches, I would highly recommend the ProPride or Hensley style hitch. About 75 lbs heavier than a conventional w.d. hitch, but the hitch head stays on the trailer. The towing experience is so much more pleasant in crosswinds and when semi's are passing.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:33 AM   #9
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A wd hitch will not increase the payload of your vehicle. The tongue weight is part of the payload and you will be technically overloaded if you want to carry gas, your wife and yourself to say nothing of the family pooch and camping equipment in the bed.
I agree with the others, your truck will safely tow your trailer if the axle ratings are not exceeded but the setup is marginal. I would consider a premium hitch and lightly loading your truck.
Where you tow is also a consideration. You will notice that you are pushing the envelope in mountain driving particularly steep curvy downhills. Going uphill, you are going to be roaring along in lower gears which you will notice at the pump.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:46 AM   #10
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Going uphill, you are going to be roaring along in lower gears which you will notice at the pump.
As will all gasoline powered tow vehicles.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:21 AM   #11
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Your Hemi will need higher RPM's than diesel or turbo-charged engines to reach it's substantial torque potential, which is plenty to tow a 27 uphill, and normal operation. Your fuel pump and maintenance costs be will be less than large diesel engines.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:32 AM   #12
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The only legitimate question about your Ram's ability tow a 27' Airstream is payload, and that is a consideration for most of us. And the only thing about an Airstream that affects truck payload is Airstream hitch weight, which Airstream itself warns should never exceed 1,000 lbs in its owners manual.

We had a discussion about this issue here yesterday.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...er-129709.html
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Look on your truck's door sill for the payload of your particular truck. The 970 wouldn't surprise me with the many options you have. I agree with SteveH, a good weight distribution hitch will distribute the trailer hitch weight and some truck bed load to front truck axle as well as trailer axles.

Don't exceed axle ratings (also on door sticker) or tire ratings. We weighed our Ram truck and trailer to ensure these were not over and.

Based on my experience with this truck using different w.d. hitches, I would highly recommend the ProPride or Hensley style hitch. About 75 lbs heavier than a conventional w.d. hitch, but the hitch head stays on the trailer. The towing experience is so much more pleasant in crosswinds and when semi's are passing.
What he said.



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Old 01-08-2015, 11:11 AM   #14
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Good idea to read that other thread too.

We have a 2014 Ram 1500 crew cab short bed with a max towing package and the Hemi. We do not have the air suspension. We tow a 2014 International Signature 27FB. It's a great towing experience, though we carefully manage our rig's weight. I have a few suggestions as follows:

* Assume the tongue weight of the FB will be more like 15% of the trailer's total weight. In my experience, Airstream's estimate of tongue weight was low by roughly 50%.
* Weigh the truck with a full tank of gas, the normal complement of passengers and nothing else. Then compare that to the truck's GVWR. The remaining payload will probably be smaller than specified.
* Compare the weight above to the combined GAWR for the truck to see what that difference looks like as well. Do not exceed GAWR for either truck axle when towing. (I'm assuming the tires can handle up to the GAWR...if not, re-evaluate the tires.)
* Definitely plan to use a hitch that offers WD & sway control. We could not tow without one, per the GAWR requirements. We've had a great experience with our Equal-i-zer hitch, though there are plenty of good choices in this category.
* Consider adding Airstream's Fiamma bike rack to the rear of the trailer instead of putting the bikes on the truck or inside the trailer.
* Consider very carefully whether a generator is really needed, as that will add weight.
* Hitch up the truck and trailer and adjust the WD hitch to using tape measures to ensure a proper distribution of weight to your truck axles. (eyeballs are *not* good enough).
* Load up the truck and trailer for travel and weigh as recommended in many threads across the forum (weigh the rig with WD active, weigh it again with WD inactive, then weigh the truck, and use these numbers to compute all the requisite values)
* Re-adjust the load and hitch as needed to ensure proper weight distribution and that GAWR is not exceeded for either axle on the truck. We travel with the truck bed and the trailer's forward storage compartment(s) as empty as possible except for light stuff. Inside, we don't store anything heavy in the bedroom. Heavy stuff that we pack into the trailer goes in storage locations on or slightly aft of the axles. So far, this works well for us.
* It's possible to make small mods to further reduce tongue weight if desired, such as switching to aluminum LP tanks (see vintagetrailersupply.com), and/or moving the trailer batteries to the foot of the bed(s) after swapping to AGM batteries. (We haven't done either of these yet, though they are on our list as possibilities.)
* Go have fun!

The usual small print applies: Our "n" of 1 does not represent a statistically significant sample, your results and mileage may vary, never reduce tongue weight to less than 10% of trailer weight, and so on.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:46 AM   #15
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Been pulling a 1978 31 foot AS for 10 yrs with a 2003 1500 Ram with Hemi engine. Been in all 49 states. Has standard transmission. Do not use Overdrive. Use cruise control. Never had a problem in in 135,000 miles. Love this truck.
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:20 PM   #16
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We pull our 1966 Safari with a 2001 Ram 1500 with a 5.7 liter V8. The truck handles the job just fine--can be a little slow going uphill, but part of that is that I drive with a light foot in the interest of better gas mileage.
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:43 PM   #17
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Sounds like you should be good to go; my last truck was a 1986 3/4 ton GMC High Sierra Suburban pulling a 31' AS, dry weight was 7200 lbs.
The truck was heavy enough, and the 350 cu.in. was powerful enough; so the trick is to not pull more than the rated weight/power for the truck;also the critical aspect is to make sure you have the proper hitch set up to handle the tongue weight; any reputable hitch dealer knows what will pull what;
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:14 PM   #18
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And as an add on to my 1st. reply; I also pulled my 1973-31' AS with a 1972 Chrysler Imperial LeBaron, 440 cu. in. The car weighed 6500lbs., the trailer 7200 lbs. dry; when I pulled into camp sights I could of sold tickets to interested parties that wanted the tour; never forget crossing from Kingston , Ontario to New York on the ferry; I had to unhitch and they used a farm tractor to push it on the last space available; about 10' was hanging over the end of the boat; sure was fun;
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:15 PM   #19
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I did a double take - I'm usually good at pouring over the manual and immediately did not find in my manual (just downloaded it) any admonition about not to exceed 1000#.

Of course your tongue weight is supposed to be in the range of 10-14% of the trailer weight (per my manual) which places an upper limit on the tongue weight, but I never saw 1000#. The GVWR of 7300# for my trailer comes out to 1095# for 15% and 1022# for 14%.
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Old 01-09-2015, 05:35 AM   #20
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If you are that close all around and have to jiggle this an juggle that with regard to weight, I'd consider swapping for a 3/4 ton with about 3,000 more lbs towing and be done with it instead of all that other stuff. Better for the truck and your peach of mind. I have not towed RV, but lots of miles with horse trailers.
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