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Old 04-13-2012, 09:15 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by REDNAX
About the brakes: talk to Andy/Inland RV as he is on top of this. Then, to DIRECLINK to see if they have their ABS trailer brake actuator up and running. The combo would be state-of-the-art. And give you an outer-edge idea of what all might be involved. Easier decision then.

As to weights: the public scale is our friend. A stack of scale tickets covering a variety of loads tells me what tire pressure and what WDH adjustments are needed. The range between min and max isn't big, but knowing where to start and end is confidence made palpable.
Do you use scales other than CAT scales? The closest one is 40 miles away.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:53 PM   #72
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What's great about CAT is repeatable results nationwide.

Try moving companies, grain or lumber companies, etc. Look in Yellow Pages under Public Scale. Just don't expect repeatable results against other scales . . but for purposes of setting the hitch we can live with what you come up with.

And, if it's on flat ground, go for wheel by wheel readings. One per position. Nailing tire info this way (versus the usual "axle average") gives best info for pressure on TV, and on TT alerts us to shift the TT internal load to better equalize readings.

When we read about tire failure on TT's it is entirely possible that one of two, or one of four, is loaded, say, 30% higher than the others. Only an individual reading will show this.

And the sort of thing that stumps us when we "know" we have been conscientious about tire issues . . just never checked this closely.

.
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:26 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by REDNAX
What's great about CAT is repeatable results nationwide.

Try moving companies, grain or lumber companies, etc. Look in Yellow Pages under Public Scale. Just don't expect repeatable results against other scales . . but for purposes of setting the hitch we can live with what you come up with.

And, if it's on flat ground, go for wheel by wheel readings. One per position. Nailing tire info this way (versus the usual "axle average") gives best info for pressure on TV, and on TT alerts us to shift the TT internal load to better equalize readings.

When we read about tire failure on TT's it is entirely possible that one of two, or one of four, is loaded, say, 30% higher than the others. Only an individual reading will show this.

And the sort of thing that stumps us when we "know" we have been conscientious about tire issues . . just never checked this closely.

.
How does one go about getting weights at individual wheels? All the scales I've seen just weigh the axel.
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:50 AM   #74
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How does one go about getting weights at individual wheels? All the scales I've seen just weigh the axel.

Steering, driving and trailer axles, if the trailer is level they will be loaded pretty close to equal.

Once the baseline is set I usually only weigh if I know we are loaded differently, ie..no boat, no motor, generator and 'dock'n stuff left behind.

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Old 04-14-2012, 07:37 AM   #75
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Individual Wheel Weights: Drive onto the scale in such a way that a single tire/wheel is the only part of the rig on the pad. You might say we're using the corners.

CAT Scale is a raised platform and this isn't possible. But some older scales were built flush with surrounding lot. No two are alike. I think all that I would want is the ground surrounding it would be generally level.

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Old 04-14-2012, 09:26 AM   #76
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Okay, I'll have to find a different set of scales. The CAT scales we went to had Jersey barriers all along the sides so it wouldn't be possible to get a single wheel on I don't think.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:20 PM   #77
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Our local DOT folks,, have what they call pad scales.. They are about 2 foot square and weight 30 lbs each.. They have a bad habit to toss them under my semi truck from time to time and say I'm over loaded.. Well duh,, you throw a scale that's 3" tall under one set of axles it will tend to carry more weight than the axle that is still on the ground.. Every time I have made them follow me to the local grain company and see the total weight with all 18 tires flat on the ground.. Got out of 12 tickets over the years and they are not cheap costing the trucker $1000 to $2500..

Glad you went and got a TV with the proper axle gears.. Any newer over drive has the reach to catch the needed mpg on most days..

And trust me,, no motor made that is sold to the public can handle long term use at 4000 rpms.. If so,, why do all industrial engines based off the engines in our tow wagons only rated to turn 1800 to 2600 rpms?

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Old 04-17-2012, 06:23 AM   #78
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I realize it's a moot point now, but:

Every time I see the title of this thread, I think: "Yes. Now get out and have some fun camping."
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:29 PM   #79
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I realize it's a moot point now, but:

Every time I see the title of this thread, I think: "Yes. Now get out and have some fun camping."
No kidding! I'm itching to GET OUT THERE! My wife is organizing an auction for a not-for-profit that's taking place on May 6 so I'm not allowed to have weekends for a little while. Plus I'm still breaking in the new Suburban!
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:55 PM   #80
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I'm probably marginal with my 2007 Tahoe LTZ 1500, but I max the rear tire pressure on the TV (44lbs), dial in the WD bars to even the drop across the TV tires, and have a friction antisway and do OK.

I also (with the four speed auto), go into "tow haul" mode and manually keep the tranny out of overdrive. I find it rarely hunts and the tranny temp never goes over 200 degrees, even on big hill climbs with the motor at 4000 RPM.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:35 PM   #81
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There are relatively inexpensive wheel pad scale sets an individual can acquire. One vendor has a four pack and then one can add individual units.The least expensive mode was two four packs. Each scale is a complete unit with no central box, so one has to crank up the old pencil to get totals of each end of an axle, all the axles, tongue weight etc.

My "local" CAT scales are 35 miles one way in the opposite direction for most of my trips.

The challenge would be finding a truly level spot to place a nearly 50' rig and get all parts upon the pads.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:57 PM   #82
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I don't end up flying down the freeway or over mountain passes but I'd really rather not buy another Suburban right now or spend the $5000 the dealer said it would cost to change the gearing. A pickup's not an option because of the other ways that I use the vehicle.
I did not read the other answers here but I can say the Strealer added a zero to the cost of changing the rear axle ratio. I had mine change quite some time ago for a couple of hundred.

Find a shop that specializes in rear axles and have then put in a 3.73 the 3.42 is TOO high and the 3.08 is insane.
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:22 PM   #83
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I had a 6.0 with 3.73 and it was almost perfect til I got a 8.1 with 4.10!!
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