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Old 08-28-2015, 08:46 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Plan-B View Post
If you have electric trailer brakes, and your trailer is less than 10,000 lbs. the RAM manual recommends 'Light Electric' setting. Over 10k then Heavy Electric. I use 8.0 gain on average with 25' 2016 FC rear birth, towing with 2015 RAM 4WD 5.7 liter and air suspension . I will tune between 7.5 and 8.5 depending on wet, dry, city, highway and steep grade mountains. PS: this is for a fully loaded trailer weight of 7,100 pounds per truck scale.
I notice that when using light electric & 10 gain my AS still has very little stopping power. In heavy electric & 5 gain it's a whole different situation.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:24 AM   #16
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If one has a trailer with a disc brake conversion, some brands of brake hydraulic pumps and controller (like the Titan BrakeRite II SD) are incompatible with any of the built in brake controllers installed by Chevy/GMC, Ford or Dodge.

We used a simple bypass to take the factory brake controller off line so it will not throw error codes and installed a Tuson DirecLInk NE brake controller that plugs into the trucks data port instead of using acceleration or motion devices.

We cut the blue wire associated with the factory brake controller and insulated both ends of the wire. Thus the truck is unaware of a plug in the seven way plug and does not throw a code. The tow/haul switch on the Dodge dash controls the engine parameters for towing or non-towing.

Dodge used fairly light gage wiring harness going back to the seven way plug on the back of the truck. We installed two #10 copper wires from one of the batteries to two 30 amp auto reset circuit breakers on the firewall. One wire continued back to the sevenway plug to provide power to the trailer (and in our case also the hydraulic pump) that will also charge the battery. The other wire went under the dash to the Tuson DirecLink as it's power and continued to the sevenway plug as both power and brake signals for the hydraulic pump control circuitry.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrjkq View Post
I notice that when using light electric & 10 gain my AS still has very little stopping power. In heavy electric & 5 gain it's a whole different situation.
If you have used a Ford integrated controller the RAM functions braking in a much different manner than the RAM, at low speeds . Since I own both. In fact when I bought the 2015 RAM I thought I had a controller issue. Typically you set a baseline controller going 15-20mph, let off the gas, manually close the controller, add gain till trailer brakes lock up... Then repeat reducing gain till tires don't lock up. With the Ford controller this works great as a base line. With the RAM 1500, trailer weight 7,100lbs ( even with Heavey Electric gain 10) you can't lock them up) you can't lock the trailers tires. I repeated the perceived issue with another RAM 1500 and my trailer, same, no skid. RAM and my dealer both hooked electronics to measure power to the trailer brakes, both measured perfect to specification. It was puzzling since once you take the trailer out and test braking in all other conditions, it stops on the dime and works perfectly. What I finally learned is the RAM controller knows the inertia and relative speed, and unless you are pulling an empty flat bed) you will probably not be able to lock up your trailer tires (by design). I just finished a 5,000 out west mountain trip through WY, ID and MT. All back rounds and up to 8% grades ( didn't know 8% grades existed). The braking performance with the Ram controller worked as well as my F-250 Ford. Took me awhile to trust it, since so use to a Ford controller, but soon liked it better since I didn't have to reduce the gain as much in slow in town driving conditions. Enjoy, it is actually working correctly!
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Old 08-30-2015, 06:53 PM   #18
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Hi, That's helpful and makes sense with what I've discovered but, how did you determine gain? Jeff

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plan-B View Post
If you have used a Ford integrated controller the RAM functions braking in a much different manner than the RAM, at low speeds . Since I own both. In fact when I bought the 2015 RAM I thought I had a controller issue. Typically you set a baseline controller going 15-20mph, let off the gas, manually close the controller, add gain till trailer brakes lock up... Then repeat reducing gain till tires don't lock up. With the Ford controller this works great as a base line. With the RAM 1500, trailer weight 7,100lbs ( even with Heavey Electric gain 10) you can't lock them up) you can't lock the trailers tires. I repeated the perceived issue with another RAM 1500 and my trailer, same, no skid. RAM and my dealer both hooked electronics to measure power to the trailer brakes, both measured perfect to specification. It was puzzling since once you take the trailer out and test braking in all other conditions, it stops on the dime and works perfectly. What I finally learned is the RAM controller knows the inertia and relative speed, and unless you are pulling an empty flat bed) you will probably not be able to lock up your trailer tires (by design). I just finished a 5,000 out west mountain trip through WY, ID and MT. All back rounds and up to 8% grades ( didn't know 8% grades existed). The braking performance with the Ram controller worked as well as my F-250 Ford. Took me awhile to trust it, since so use to a Ford controller, but soon liked it better since I didn't have to reduce the gain as much in slow in town driving conditions. Enjoy, it is actually working correctly!
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:30 PM   #19
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It comes with experience and taking your new rig out on back roads and testing them out in all stopping conditions. When you have adjusted to what feels good, no obvious trailer slamming your stops, trailer tires not skidding etc, then you have a good baseline to work from. Remember when conditions change, especially on wet black asphalt, you might have to reduce gain a point or point and a half to keep trailer from skidding. Leave your vehicle windows down so you can listen to your trailer tires when testing, the noise they make will tell you a lot.

Also remember when you do your testing, if your trailer was empty, when it and your vehicle is loaded down you might have to add a half or so more gain. Trial and error and experience you will get the feel of it.

The modern controllers, like the one on your RAM, are pretty smart and know and measure the inertia during stopping. So, the faster you travel, with respect to how much you are applying brakes, it will increase the gain to your trailer more aggressively. Same goes for slower speeds and gentle stops, it delivers a less aggressive gain. Much nicer than the old days.

As I mentioned earlier for my heavy loaded 25 FC (7,100 pds) I have my Ram 1500 set on Light Electric and average gain setting 8. Have only used 8.5 for long 7% grades and when empty or wet conditions I run 7.5. On gravel I was using 5.5.

Your rig might act much differently than mine so start slow and test your way up the speed tests. Hope this helped.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:41 AM   #20
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Thanks Greg!
QUOTE=Plan-B;1677231]It comes with experience and taking your new rig out on back roads and testing them out in all stopping conditions. When you have adjusted to what feels good, no obvious trailer slamming your stops, trailer tires not skidding etc, then you have a good baseline to work from. Remember when conditions change, especially on wet black asphalt, you might have to reduce gain a point or point and a half to keep trailer from skidding. Leave your vehicle windows down so you can listen to your trailer tires when testing, the noise they make will tell you a lot.

Also remember when you do your testing, if your trailer was empty, when it and your vehicle is loaded down you might have to add a half or so more gain. Trial and error and experience you will get the feel of it.

The modern controllers, like the one on your RAM, are pretty smart and know and measure the inertia during stopping. So, the faster you travel, with respect to how much you are applying brakes, it will increase the gain to your trailer more aggressively. Same goes for slower speeds and gentle stops, it delivers a less aggressive gain. Much nicer than the old days.

As I mentioned earlier for my heavy loaded 25 FC (7,100 pds) I have my Ram 1500 set on Light Electric and average gain setting 8. Have only used 8.5 for long 7% grades and when empty or wet conditions I run 7.5. On gravel I was using 5.5.

Your rig might act much differently than mine so start slow and test your way up the speed tests. Hope this helped.[/QUOTE]
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Old 08-31-2015, 04:40 PM   #21
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Jtwind, not a problem and glad it helped. That is what about every member on this forum will do, help out when and if they can. If you want to talk more about this in person, just send me a message through the forum and I will give you my cell number. More than happy to do so.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:35 AM   #22
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the electric over hydraulic is an issue for me as well with my boat and trailer. no built in controller can handle this application so i had to install a separate system and find a comparable controller to do the job. its not much of a problem so long as i remember which plug to use

i found the description of this built in controller interesting because on my F350, i can adjust the setting by number just like on any controller i have ever used in the past. no sort of 'heavy-light' fooling around.

good luck finding the correct setting with your truck.
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