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Old 01-11-2014, 08:10 AM   #15
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As I see it, these are all symtoms of the times we live in. If we each had 100 acres of land to camp in the middle of, we would never bother our neighbors, but we'll never see those days again, at least not in this country, and it will only get worse in the future.

All we can do is the best we can to be considerate of our neighbors. That said, the only idling of my Diesel that I do is about five minutes after arrival to unhook and let the turbo cool down a little, and whatever time it takes in the morning to get hooked up before departure.

There is another solution (that most won't like), and it would be for EVERYONE in the campground to go to bed at 10, and get up at 6, like I do. :-)
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:36 AM   #16
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Seems somewhere I read that extended idling of a newer diesel was bad for it. Anyone here this? Jim
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:11 AM   #17
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I was certainly not proposing that anyone should risk damaging their rig so I can sleep past sunrise. But, if you know your vehicle is loud and aromatic, is it absolutely necessary that you depart before dawn? Especially if you are in a National Park or national Forest?

The newer diesel pickups are a lot quieter and pretty stealthy but there is no joy in a 425 hp Cummins in a 40' motorhome running on high idle.

Mike
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:04 AM   #18
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The Dodge truck with Cummins diesel engine owners manual is specific about no full load until approximately 170 degrees of engine water temp. Taking the transmission out of "park" and putting it in drive puts the rig under full load. The trailer is not a drag sled that gradually increases resistance. The mass and resistance is there when it starts to move. Of course, the air resistance increases with speed.
I have to ask... if shifting into Drive at or just above idle to roll away from a campsite puts the engine under "full load", how do you describe the condition the drivetrain experiences when towing a trailer up a steep grade at highway speeds?
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:26 AM   #19
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Taking the transmission out of "park" and putting it in drive puts the rig under full load. The trailer is not a drag sled that gradually increases resistance. The mass and resistance is there when it starts to move. Of course, the air resistance increases with speed.

....
You are kidding right??
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:56 AM   #20
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From the 2014 RAM 2500 Owners Manual, Diesel Supplement.

Engine Idling
Avoid prolonged idling, long periods of idling may be
harmful to your engine because combustion chamber
temperatures can drop so low that the fuel may not burn
completely. Incomplete combustion allows carbon and
varnish to form on piston rings, cylinder head valves,
and injector nozzles. Also, the unburned fuel can enter
the crankcase, diluting the oil and causing rapid wear to
the engine.
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:25 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by daveswenson View Post
From the 2014 RAM 2500 Owners Manual, Diesel Supplement.

Engine Idling
Avoid prolonged idling, long periods of idling may be
harmful to your engine because combustion chamber
temperatures can drop so low that the fuel may not burn
completely. Incomplete combustion allows carbon and
varnish to form on piston rings, cylinder head valves,
and injector nozzles. Also, the unburned fuel can enter
the crankcase, diluting the oil and causing rapid wear to
the engine.
The book said that even on my 99 Cummins. It caused me concern when I started transporting trailers for a living I put a lot of idling hours on that truck although I never idled it all night except once in AZ. when it was too hot to sleep I presume that no harm was done as I still have the truck as it approaches the 600K mark. The older trucks had an optional computer flash that would kick the idle speed up for warm up if certain temperature criteria were met.
On the newer Ram trucks the same thing can be done by turning on the cruise while in park and hitting the minus button and you can ramp up the idle speed for warming up. It will disengage when the brake is hit, and maybe other things too. AS far as I know that trick is not temperature sensitive.
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:34 AM   #22
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switz, my friend, full load refers to the load placed on the engine. Don't stand on the throttle and wind out each gear is another way of saying this. Same for gassers. A reasonble rate of acceleraton is all that is needed.

High idle -- above all else -- is to keep the oil pressure at the main bearings high. Any other benefits are of a distant secondary nature

As to temp control, a MOPAR (not aftermarket) winter cover will help substantially in early achieving and maintaining coolant temps. Thus, oil temps, as the coolant is used to both heat and cool the engne lubricating oil. Check owners manual for advisibility.

Also, the "energetic" content of "winter fuel blends is only down by 4% from summer blends. Heat exchanger temp control is indicated in some ways for winter, but the latest emissions systems/engine controls will fast heat oil and coolant, even in sub-40F weather while running down the highway.

There is no necessity to idle from cold start. Once oil pressure is up (2-seconds) put it in gear and ease away. The OEM's aren't ever going to release an engine where enforced idling is a requiurement.

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Old 03-30-2014, 06:19 AM   #23
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Diesel Operation

As I am about to order my first diesel, Ram 2500 Cummins...I'm concerned that I've got to let it idle for an extended time before driving off. What is the proper procedure for starting and running a diesel. This will be my daily driver as well. Sorry if this takes this thread in a different direction.

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Old 03-30-2014, 06:38 AM   #24
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As I am about to order my first diesel, Ram 2500 Cummins...I'm concerned that I've got to let it idle for an extended time before driving off. What is the proper procedure for starting and running a diesel. This will be my daily driver as well. Sorry if this takes this thread in a different direction.

Bob
Indiana,PA
No, you should be able to get in and go.

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Old 03-30-2014, 08:36 AM   #25
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As the owner of a diesel Excursion and two diesel motorhomes before that, I am amazed at he inconsiderate knuckleheads that idle their diesels for long periods of time at the campsite before dawn. Everyone sleeps lightly before dawn and all that mechanical rattle is aggravating. Worse is the moron who steps on his air brakes repeatedly as part of the "pre run check".
If I leave early, I break camp, get everything stowed, start my engine, run it under very light load to an uninhabited area where I can do the pre run check, hook up the car or futz with it all day if I want.
Once the oil is circulating, running the vehicle under very light load causes zero increased wear. My Excursion is coming up on 300,000 miles and the engine will wear out the body. I have never idled it to warm it up to operating temps. I run it slowly, "staying out of the turbo" until if warms up, even in cold temps. When the temp is cold and the humidity is high, idling the engine puts contaminants in the oil.
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Old 04-03-2014, 05:10 PM   #26
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Yeah, those early Dodge Cummins are SSOOOO loud, it's a wonder they made it through the EPA for DB's. There's no doubt when you sit next to one at a stop light or when they come through your campground at 1 am trying to find a spot. When I had my Ford diesels, I would just plug in the block heater if the temp was lower than 40 and the engine would be nice and toasty as soon as I fired it up. No idling needed.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:36 PM   #27
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As I am about to order my first diesel, Ram 2500 Cummins...I'm concerned that I've got to let it idle for an extended time before driving off. What is the proper procedure for starting and running a diesel. This will be my daily driver as well. Sorry if this takes this thread in a different direction.

Bob
Indiana,PA
Don't forget to read the owners manual for all the good tips.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:48 PM   #28
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Roadrunner- When you get the 2500 with the Cummins read the owners manual. They have intake manifold heaters, at least my '08 does. There is a dash light for it so wait for it to go out if weather is cool/cold. When you start engine the heater will cycle on and and off, how long depends on ambient temp. Engine volt meter is a clue to heater cycling, voltage will drop when heater is on. When it quits cycling, OK to go.

If warm enough that heater doesn't come on just go.

In all cases remember that warming engine does nothing to warm transmission or rear end so take it easy first few miles, especially when towing.

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