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Old 03-26-2008, 08:54 PM   #15
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
waynesboro , Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 105
I have an 02 chevy same specs as yours... and i pulled a 26' wilderness trailer no problems... easily 65-70 down the road with a sway bar and torque levelers..... i installed a set of monroe overload shocks... the ones with coil springs on the top... which helped the sag out a lot... i also towed a 27' 5th wheel behind it before i got my 345 moho.

1989 345LE
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Old 03-26-2008, 11:05 PM   #16
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2006 19' Safari
Anaheim , California
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 224
It really all depends on where you plan to tow. We have a 19 foot Bambi and had no problems with towing it up and down the coast of California with an F-150 with 3.55 rear end (all that was offered the first year the Supercrew was introduced}. Towing in the mountains is a whole other story. Brakes were inadequate and acceleration from pull-outs to let traffic pass was a nighmare. It sounds like overkill, but we upgraded to a 3/4 ton Dodge diesel (I know, way overkill) and towing has become much less "white knuckle" than it use to be and there is nowhere I fear to tread. Half ton is fine for flatland and medium pulls, but anyting serious in altitude gain and you'll find a 3/4 ton makes the trip much less worrysome.

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Old 03-26-2008, 11:22 PM   #17
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ride on! johnco....

overkill is just the right amount...

and leaves no doubt !

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:48 AM   #18
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2008 34' Classic
1960 17' Pacer
London , Ontario
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Hi Wannabe

Your Avalanch is the same wheel base and rear overhang as a Suburban which thousands of people tow with it will not have any problem with a 25' Airstream as long as it is connected properly.

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Old 03-27-2008, 12:57 PM   #19
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Ann Arbor , Michigan
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Thanks, Everyone. This has been very helpful. According to the TVWB/Trailer guidelines you cited it looks like the 25' is right at the top of the 130"WB of the Avalanche. I do live in the flatlands, but would like to think I could go to the mountains if I wanted to. I hear you re the Slooooow nature of the 5.3L engine with a 25. It's important for me to hear that. In '67 I bought a new Mercedes Benz Diesel car (yup, I'm that old). We drove it for 95,000 miles before trading it in on a gas model. It was a great car and in perfect shape when we sold it. I occasionally brag about how the cost of fuel for all those miles worked out to an even 1 cent a mile. But, the engine was rated at about 60 HP by the standards used in those days. Pulling onto a freeway ramp you could floor the accelerator and absolutely NOTHING would happen. Eventually, I just couldn't take it anymore. I was always looking out the rearview mirror to see if some semi was going to crawl up the trunk. On the other hand, I appreciate the wisdom of buying a trailer I won't want to trade in a couple of years. Looks like we have some thinking to do. First thing will be to crawl around in some 23Ds or 20s to see if one of those would make us happy. Another option would be to cut our trailering teeth pulling a 25 around the flatlands for a few years and them bump up to a stronger truck. I truly appreciate your input. How did people make these decisions before the internet? Maybe they were just less informed at the outset.
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:21 AM   #20
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1967 20' Globetrotter
hendersonville , North Carolina
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will a 2004 jeep grand cherokee overland with a v8 4.7l o.h. pull a 20 foot 1967 globetrotter
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:43 PM   #21
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2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
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Originally Posted by step0388
will a 2004 jeep grand cherokee overland with a v8 4.7l o.h. pull a 20 foot 1967 globetrotter
I pulled our '75 23' Safari with an '04 Dodge 1/2 ton short cab, short bed, with the same engine as you have, and it did fine with the possible exception of in the mountains. The problem I found with the Dodge was I could not manually select 3rd from OD with the transmission selector, and the thing was constantly hunting back and forth between 3rd and OD. What I finally learned to do was on the steep high grades, slow down to 50 MPH, manually select 2nd gear, and then drive with the tach on 3000 RPM, and it did great. The trailer you are discussing is shorter, lighter, and will pull much easier because it is single axle, and with that said, I think you will have no problems as long as you have a good hitch and brake controller.
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Old 06-16-2008, 02:41 PM   #22
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Richmond , Virginia
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Although I've done a lot of camping, I've done minimal RV camping. To start out, I could see myself using the Airstream as a winter home somwhere along the southern coast and a summer home somewhere along the New England (Bar Harbor comes to mind) coast as opposed to doing a lot of travel per se, especially given the current and future price of gas..........
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:15 PM   #23
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1975 Argosy 24
Collierville , Tennessee
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Originally Posted by greg_n_sam View Post
I started a thread just recently when we purchased our 31' sovereign..... It seems that some things needed to be done to our 1985 F-150 shortbed to tow our Airstream. We are contemplating doing the upgrades per some really good advice from other forum members... the following is what we plan on doing:

1. Putnam Receiver Hitch (about $162)
2. E-Q-Lizer (Equilizer) Weight distributing hitch attachment (about $358)
3. Fireside Ride Rite suspension helpers (about $234)
4. Fireside Ride Rite Level Command II (controls suspension helpers) (about $150)
5. P-3 Tekonsha Brake Controller (about $125)

Not sure if that helps but it may....

A blower or supercharger would help as well. I have a 1990 F150 w/ 302 and it is a dog/no power. Only has 180 hp, if you pull any serious grades you will be doing about 25-30 mph. Have fun.

Different strokes for different folks!

I never learned from a man who agreed with me.
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