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Old 07-06-2006, 09:04 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ALANSD
here is photo of what I now have....tell me what I need...two bars? What kind and weight...saw some at Northern Tool will they work...." duh"
That is a Reese Dual Cam setup. Do a search on it here and on Google. The little ball is for a friction sway control unit, you have both types.

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Old 07-06-2006, 09:11 PM   #30
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Let the chase begin! Alan, I went about this one pin at a time. If you use the pin-outs linked earlier at the Airstream.com site, you can use a jumper to go across the hot wire coming from the Univolt (no battery required) to each pin for the various lights on the trailer. I started with the lights, themselves. Running lights, then backups, then left turn and so on. Save the brakes and charge line for last. Make sure the ground is good before you ever start. This is usually a white wire.

FWTW, I worked from the inside of the trailer 7-pin connector. The colors on the Airstream site matched exactly to my trailer, but they were not in the same order as the diagram shows. In other words, match colors to function and wire accordingly. Start with the simplest things, lights, and go from there.

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P.S. Where are those dang pictures?
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:17 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
I put my umbilical together and plugged it in, no lights on the trailer.....is a 12v battery needed in the trailer ro the signal and brake lights to work???...if not I will be chasing wires to see what is up. I'm 99.9% sure I wired the umbilical right.
No a battery is not needed, you do need a hot battery to lock the brakes if the break away switch is pulled. Get a hot battery and a wiring diagram and test leads and work directly on the plug on the trailer and see what lights. This will take the truck out of the troubleshooting. The plug on the truck can be bad, check that with a volt meter or a hot light.

Good Luck
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:20 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
here is photo of what I now have....tell me what I need...two bars? What kind and weight...saw some at Northern Tool will they work...." duh"
That is a Reese Dual-Cam WD/sway control. For your F250, you would need 500 pound bars, if you can find them. If not, I think 750 is the next lightest bars.
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:26 PM   #33
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eehah, so I have part of a decent tow set up,,,,now I will seek out the bars.
The lighting I will have to play around with and see how it goes,,,,
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Old 07-07-2006, 12:32 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
I put my umbilical together and plugged it in, no lights on the trailer.....is a 12v battery needed in the trailer ro the signal and brake lights to work???...if not I will be chasing wires to see what is up. I'm 99.9% sure I wired the umbilical right.
The trailer lights (turn, running and stop) are independent of the trailer's 12 volt system. If none of them are working, I would suspect a bad ground wire.
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Old 07-07-2006, 12:40 AM   #35
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The trailer lights (turn, running and stop) are independent of the trailer's 12 volt system. If none of them are working, I would suspect a bad ground wire.
But they can still be actuated by jumpering across the hot wire coming from the univolt/TT battery to the pin for the light set in question. All I'm trying to point out is to take the umbilical and TV out of the picture, then find out what the function of each pin is, then wire the umbilical accordingly.

And you are absolutely correct, bad grounds drove me bug-nuts for 2 days 'til I figured it out; most of my lights had bad gounds.

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Old 07-07-2006, 07:40 AM   #36
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I figured I would have to power up each light group via the connector to see if they work, and check the grounds, etc. The battery is gone, it was 11 yrs old and quite dead.
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:19 AM   #37
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thanks all, I will be glad to help put that belly pan back on, if you need me Jim just email me,,, no problem. I will check the site and Ebay as well. I don;t even know how much oil to put in when I change it.
8 quarts?
Oil fill is 12-14 quarts, depending on vehicle.
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:22 AM   #38
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Napa told me 15 with two going in the filter, but I will put in the 12 and 2 and see how that reads. Thanks
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:26 AM   #39
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Napa told me 15 with two going in the filter, but I will put in the 12 and 2 and see how that reads. Thanks
Alan, if you don't know when the last time it was done, it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter while you are in there. It is directly under the plastic shield on top of the engine, and the cap unscrews to access the cartridge.
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:44 AM   #40
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thanks, it looks like it is recent, but it is a good idea. I also bought the crush washer for the drippy drain plug. The chassis had not been well lubed so that was the first thing I did.
The truck really seems to run great, smokes some on the first cold start of the day, but clears up well.The only issues are a mildly hard shift from 1st to second ( automatic), I have been told this could be adjusted.
Also a weird noise every once in awhile sounds like I ran over something. It happened three or four random times while going slow, suggested to me it could be a bushing in the steering causing popping noise.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:15 PM   #41
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after driving in the rain in 4 wheel high, I have not had any noises since. Wonder if the 4 wheel was not used in a awhile...anyway its cruisin' nicely now...
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:27 PM   #42
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It could be a radius arm bushing getting worn. They are inexpensive, and not hard to put in. Did you ever get the trailer lighting sorted out?
And how much oil did it wind up holding?
I am looking at a (eerily) similar truck now to replace our van, it has a 5 speed, and is white, but otherwise set up identically, down to the Mondo bumper, but with a receiver already installed.
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