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Old 01-30-2016, 01:09 PM   #71
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2016 Ford F150 vs F250

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Originally Posted by franklyfrank View Post
I am at a loss reading the mileage and performance comparisons between the diesel and gas mainly the Ford Eco Boost.

The additional cost for the diesel to purchase and own is difficult for me justify.

It takes a long time to realize the difference in fuel savings.

That's not to say if that is the toy you wan't go for it.

It's not about making up the difference.That you will never do.It is about comfort ,safety and performance that these vehicles provide.
These new vehicles with the prices approaching $70k for a new 6.7 Superduty you don't want to keep them more than 3 years.Trade and get a new one.Costs the same as driving a F150 for a 3 year term if you take good care of your vehicles.

There is big difference in the overall towing experience when pulling a larger trailer.
I initially pulled with a 2010 F150 4x4 Lariat 5.4 Supercrew max tow package with 3:55 axel that pulled ok but it was not enough chassis or brakes to do it comfortably.Truck was maxed out on payload even with a properly set up wd hitch.When hooked to the trailer the truck road like a lumber wagon,simply because the suspension over taxed.Pot holes and bumps felt like they were going to break something and you could feel the trailer pushing the truck around.
We have a 28ft international and pull approximately 12-15000 miles per year and our 2015 6.7 turbo diesel is as smooth and quiet as you could ask for.You forget there is even a 28ft trailer behind you even in the Rockies.My 2 cents


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Old 01-31-2016, 01:14 PM   #72
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Not much that difference in maintenance.I have had two Ford 6.7 turbo diesels and will not be going back to a gas tow vehicle any time soon.They cost more to buy but the resale is higher so you get it back when trade.There is big difference in the overall towing experience when pulling a larger trailer.We have a 28ft international and pull approximately 12-15000 miles per year.


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Only a fool would argue that a F-250 Diesel is not a better vehicle too tow with.
My experience with our F-150 Ecoboost, towing a 30' International since 2012 has been also very satisfying. We average about 10,000 miles per year mostly out west driving the Rockies.
I had an F-250 Diesel for 4 years during which time it cost me over 5 grand to keep it running and couldn't get a dime out of Ford once it was out of warranty.
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Old 01-31-2016, 05:30 PM   #73
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Only a fool would argue that a F-250 Diesel is not a better vehicle too tow with.
My experience with our F-150 Ecoboost, towing a 30' International since 2012 has been also very satisfying. We average about 10,000 miles per year mostly out west driving the Rockies.
I had an F-250 Diesel for 4 years during which time it cost me over 5 grand to keep it running and couldn't get a dime out of Ford once it was out of warranty.
You cant keep them that long.
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:31 AM   #74
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You cant keep them that long.
It is pretty bad when you can't keep a $70K Ford more than 3 years or go broke in maintenance fees.

Hence me keeping my 16 yr old Dodge diesel with no EPA crap = no maintenance fees.
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:36 AM   #75
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2016 Ford F150 vs F250

Stories like that make me like my 1995 PowerStroke that much more. 116K miles, should still have lots of life in it.


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Old 02-01-2016, 07:55 AM   #76
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You cant keep them that long.
Geez I wish I had known before buying it. The first time in the shop about 20 k miles past warranty cost me $ 2,900.00 and it went down hill after.
The current 2012 -F-150 Ecoboost with 76 k miles was in the shop once for and accelerator switc, total cost $ 110.00.
I am very shy of Ford Diesels ever since. Maybe I wait another 10 years for them to get really reliable. At that point most likely I won't need one.
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Old 02-01-2016, 08:22 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
It is pretty bad when you can't keep a $70K Ford more than 3 years or go broke in maintenance fees.



Hence me keeping my 16 yr old Dodge diesel with no EPA crap = no maintenance fees.

1999 Nissan Pathfinder $25,000
Still drive it 17 years later
1 year maintenance:
Oil change, tire rotation, battery, wiper blades, windshield washer fluid, wash, wax, tire dressing
$13 per month insurance
$39 tag
2007 Toyota Tundra $30,000
Still drive it 8 years later
1 year maintenance:
2 oil changes, 2 tire rotations, wiper blades, windshield washer fluid, battery, replaced some dry rotted rubber trim pieces, wash, wax, tire dressing
$650 per year insurance
$150 tag
2006 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic one year maintenance-
0 maintenance this year other than wash, wax, tag, and $12 per month insurance
I ain't got $70,000 and my rides ain't broke!


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Old 02-01-2016, 09:34 AM   #78
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It is pretty bad when you can't keep a $70K Ford more than 3 years or go broke in maintenance fees.

Hence me keeping my 16 yr old Dodge diesel with no EPA crap = no maintenance fees.
I think you miss understood what I was saying.To minimize you loss due to depreciation you cant drive a $60k-$70 truck (Ford,Dodge ,Chev,Mercedes ,Porsche or VW) till the wheels fall off.If you are one that takes care of there vehicles you are better off trading at a regular interval.I trade every 36mos for approx $15k.That is as cheap as it gets with this expensive of a vehicle.So the cost per year is the same per year as a loaded F150 or less.

Trying to keep up with a high mileage older vehicle (there are always maintenance fees)is not my idea of a good time traveling( I have done it but now I dont have to).Then trying to trade it off with it little value is painful.
I am not brand follower,I just buy the product that has the lowest cost of ownership with the comfort that I require and gets the job done properly.
Not saying this is for everyone but it works for us.

I have been in the automobile business for 40 years and still learning!
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:00 AM   #79
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I disagree- to a point- to a degree-
Many times it's cheaper to keep 'er.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


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Old 02-01-2016, 10:03 AM   #80
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Moflash is correct, generally. The formula can change with a bunch of variables when one looks at not JUST depreciation, but looks at total cost of ownership....especially if one performs all their maintenance and repair work themself, like me.

But Moflash only stated his findings on depreciation...at least in the first paragraph.
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:51 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I disagree- to a point- to a degree-
Many times it's cheaper to keep 'er.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


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I'm stuck. For me, this is it - at least for now. My newly-delivered factory ordered F250 diesel is likely the last diesel I will ever be able to fit into - that is unless Toyota ever comes out with one. Starting in 2017, the Ford Super Duties will use the same passenger box as the current F150 series which I can't fit into; and Dodge made their changes 10 years ago of which I cannot fit into - and I could never fit into Chevy/GMC. :-P
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:09 AM   #82
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My 07 dodge with 6.7 and 6speed auto and 98,000 miles, and hasn't had any problems, when the time comes I will get another one...
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:37 AM   #83
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I am not brand follower,I just buy the product that has the lowest cost of ownership with the comfort that I require and gets the job done properly.
Not saying this is for everyone but it works for us.

I have been in the automobile business for 40 years and still learning!
I have never been in the automobile business unless you account for all of my own vehilcles that I fix and keep on the road. I can foresee my abilities being more and more limited as the complexity of vehicles change at an exponential rate - where they can only be fixed by a dealership.

Tell me - how does the average guy like myself find out which product has the lowest cost of ownership? Where do you research this information? A three year old gas vehicle really shouldn't have much of anything go wrong with it no matter what the brand. They all seem pretty reliable these days (except for those nit picky recalls).

What I read out of your thread is that it will cost you approximately $5k/year for depreciation cost. Do you ever factor in ad valorem tax or the higher insurance cost on a newer vehicle? Here in Kentucky we get socked pretty hard with taxes and surcharges (taxes) on the vehicle insurance much to a point it discourages people from wanting to get a newer vehicle (or at least folks in my income bracket).
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:06 AM   #84
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I think you miss understood what I was saying.To minimize you loss due to depreciation you cant drive a $60k-$70 truck (Ford,Dodge ,Chev,Mercedes ,Porsche or VW) till the wheels fall off.If you are one that takes care of there vehicles you are better off trading at a regular interval.I trade every 36mos for approx $15k.That is as cheap as it gets with this expensive of a vehicle.So the cost per year is the same per year as a loaded F150 or less.

Trying to keep up with a high mileage older vehicle (there are always maintenance fees)is not my idea of a good time traveling( I have done it but now I don't have to).Then trying to trade it off with it little value is painful.
I am not brand follower,I just buy the product that has the lowest cost of ownership with the comfort that I require and gets the job done properly.
Not saying this is for everyone but it works for us.

I have been in the automobile business for 40 years and still learning!
Any which way you slice it or dice it buying and using a vehicle or truck is a loosing proposition. Its a machine that depreciates and needs regular upkeep to keep it running. I missed the window for a high value trade with my 2012 F-150 so now I will experiment how long I can push it. At 70,000 I replaced the Tires and Shocks and other than a $ 110.00 repair it has been only Oil and Filter changes. Of course I only use it to tow our 30' International.
I have a 1998 Explorer I bought new with 125,K on it I use as a beater around town. That thing just don't want to die. I don't do anything to it.
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